35m. Start on the left side of the slab and climb boldly to a blast-shattered alcove. Climb up, veer rightwards as you near the corner, and traverse delicately right to join Rob's Crack where it bends right. Leave that route and climb direct to the top.

M Raine, M Hammill 06/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Mayaculpa 13/Oct/16 TR
c357 04/Oct/16 Lead O/S
leland stamper 24/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with BU6330
BU6330 24/Aug/16 Lead O/S
John Wellbelove 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
AndyMorrall 10/Aug/16 2nd
just one more 09/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with rich h, Max B
Martin Bagshaw 05/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ed Green
Andrew1 23/Jul/16 2nd
with Hulda
Hulda 23/Jul/16 Lead
with Andi
WilliamRupp 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Tom courtiour 11/Jul/16 Lead O/S
el_monty 10/Jul/16 2nd β
with Paddy, Harrison
Woolly 05/Jul/16 Lead

still recon the start is 5c

with Chris
Hidden 05/Jul/16 2nd
(A)-Alan 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S

First E1, worked first with top rope previously.

ngreen 19/Jun/16 Lead
with Jonreece
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Lead
(A)-Alan 05/Jun/16 TR

Hard move at the start. Once at first ledge ok-ish.

with ngreen
Mayaculpa 04/Jun/16 TR
with Alex
Cheese Monkey 27/May/16 Lead β

Crux took a bit of figuring out but got there eventually

just one more 27/May/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead O/S
nikki_a_swan 14/May/16 2nd
with NaCl
markfromstoke 13/May/16 2nd
with Ian, Steve N
Robin Woodward ?/May/16 Lead dnf

Got to about 4 m up and lunged left for a pocket ledge which turned out to be way off route so retreated and left for another day.

Jenny Dart ?/May/16 2nd
with Robin
afterthesend 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 23/Apr/16 TR
Mayaculpa 02/Apr/16 TR
James S 29/Feb/16 2nd
with melty
Melonfly 29/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Went up crux without the good (obviously chalky) pocket (slight to right on rough unpolished bulge). May of went too far along Robs Crack, slung tree. Downclimbed, then direct. Good fun.

with James
Laurence20 24/Feb/16 Solo O/S
jhobbs 22/Nov/15 TR O/S
Mayaculpa 18/Oct/15 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Hidden 18/Oct/15 TR O/S
petecallaghan 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Exciting start - my foot slipped on the bold first section, but I managed to stay on.

with Scott
Hidden 18/Oct/15 2nd O/S
ipegg 18/Oct/15 Lead
Rafal Malczyk 18/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Ian Pegg
WillAndrew 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead RP
kelliroberts3 19/Aug/15 2nd
Pete Rigby 19/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Kelli Roberts
cpoad 15/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Used a mat for start

with John S
Vnockles 25/Jul/15 2nd
with Alex Smith
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead
Hexman 30/Jun/15 Lead G/U

Slipped off the start and hit the ground first time. Got it second attempt, there's just enough gear.

with Elaine Smithson
BBEENN 29/Jun/15 TR
Mayaculpa 27/Jun/15 2nd

Started slipping before the alcove

with Michael H
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Felix Ottey 27/Jun/15 Lead rpt
lukerathmell 16/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with emma holland, Carl Stubbs
carl_123 16/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Wevcore 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Rich
Luxulyan 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kev Brown
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
tobydunford 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Paul Baller 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
LovelyMrTom 28/May/15 Lead dnf

Couldn't commit to the big move up to the slot so backed off. Need to come back when feeling taller.

lakeyross 26/May/15 Lead O/S

wow, first proper E1! boom! Yes! really nice climb on a slab. lots of solid hand holds, not much gear.

miriamclaire 25/May/15 2nd O/S
with hutchay
miriamclaire 25/May/15 Lead β
with hutchay
hutchay 25/May/15 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 21/May/15 Lead O/S
with Max Coney
Legs 21/May/15 Lead O/S

Bold start. Really fun route.

with Steve
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead
cdpuk 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Fun (bold) start. Started to rain at 3/4 height to make it more interesting for the 2nds.

Hidden 10/May/15 2nd dog
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Bob Peters ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead rpt
climbEdclimb 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Cameron Ree
Fatclimber 08/Apr/15 TR
with Self Belayed
Hidden 06/Apr/15 2nd dog
Matt Smith 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Feb/15 2nd dog
Adam Hill 04/Jan/15 Lead

Greasy start, ok after the blast hole. With Zach, Ollie and Simon

with Zach
Pete Rigby ??/2015 Lead rpt
with Kelli Roberts
Slick 26/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 26/Oct/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 12/Oct/14 Lead
with Ted Lister
Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Ian JL 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
callans 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Technical, start is thin! Most enjoyable.

katiep 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Felt hard and thin at the start. Nice to scare myself a bit though.

with Callan
JulianB 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Scary from the ground with no pro for 6m

Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd
just one more 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with john smith
Hidden 11/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Woolly 11/Sep/14 Lead

The start must be 5c, harder than 4 Steps, but the rest is a lot easier, but very pleasant and well protected so E1 overall

steve-grigg 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
David Maddison 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/14 TR O/S
Paul Eckton 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Amy Devereux
Hidden 23/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead
Fjsinclair 04/Aug/14 2nd
Pintsize 22/Jun/14 2nd
will_benfold 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
felixizzy 10/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Craig
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Uncomfortably bold with non-existent / fiddly gear for most of the first half. Good though.

with Alan
Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd
felixizzy 18/May/14 Lead β

Sean lead, thought it looked too good to second so got him to strip the gear and went up after.

with Sean
BallsOfSteel 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Felix
tskelhon ?/May/14 2nd
clmacdonald ?/May/14 Lead
bpmclimb 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Kirsten
kirsten 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Brian
BALD EAGLE 12/Apr/14 2nd
with Kevin Van Colina
Hidden 12/Apr/14 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Mar/14 2nd
Tristypants 17/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Felt high in the grade, scary start (marginal tiny RP placement found)! Ended up on Rob's Crack near end...

with Bec Chalkley
The Ivanator 15/Mar/14 TR O/S

Good 5b moves at start to blast hole, would be bold on lead.

with Toby, Rich
sheelba 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd
Echna 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Rich
TDSvejstrup 05/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Harder than 4 steps I reckon (at the bottom) and bolder!

zcsharp 05/Mar/14 2nd

Definatly felt hard for the grade, especially since my partner had to do it in slightly wet conditions.

with Danish
duncan 12/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Pete Randall 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Pete Neden
BFG 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Lower section unprotected but big holds, above the recess the gear gets better, after the traverse right the route is basically done. Top is muddy at the moment mind.

with James Orde Powlett
zadurrani 14/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Made the mistake of moving to the left before the alcove and was dragged down with loose rock. Lucky escape with few bruises.

Hidden 29/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Matthew Martin Wsm 25/Aug/13 TR

tricky moves quite sustained

with marc fenton
katemurphy_@hotmail 11/Aug/13 2nd
Echna 10/Aug/13 Lead rpt

After toproping it 2 month before.

with Andy
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 TR O/S
AndyF 10/Aug/13 2nd
with Echna
MoWalker3 07/Aug/13 -
with Cormac
Chazwoz 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 24/Jul/13 2nd β

Bit of a scary start I guess...

with Iggy, Ben
Cheese Monkey 24/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Iggy, Peter
squicky 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Nice bold start. Technical but never difficult. Sustained with good gear after the corner. Possibly hard for the grade given the start.

with Ben, Peter
petegunn 21/Jul/13 2nd
with Davina
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Felix Ottey 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Really happy with myself for getting this. Lovely, challenging, consistent climbing

Vnockles 30/Jun/13 2nd
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
katherinesydney 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
thomb 18/Jun/13 Lead rpt

the finish is not quite as vegetated/muddy as it looks from below.

with Kat
Paul_southgate68 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S

All about the bottom half! Bold and felt high in the grade. Great fun nice and techy, just how I like it!

with shane dawson
grp 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Griff1990 05/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Echna 04/Jun/13 2nd β

Will go as a lead as soon as I'm more confident with my gear placements.

AndyF 04/Jun/13 Lead RP

1st E1 lead. Well pleased - nice technical, climbing with long run-outs!

with Gregor, Mike
markfromstoke 03/Jun/13 -
with Steve S
Georgia H ?/Jun/13 2nd
tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
thomb 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 18/May/13 2nd
Maxim2023 ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
kate tarrant ?/May/13 2nd β
Hidden 23/Apr/13 TR rpt
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
MartinN 03/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead β
LukeyG 19/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
bradfry 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
kirsten 08/Sep/12 2nd
with Mick
bpmclimb 08/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Tom Frost 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/12 TR
Dale ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S

The start is a little run out but a very good landing. Did the Direct Finish which is the top half of the E3

with stu
tommytom 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
riddle 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Pete Rigby 15/Jul/12 Solo rpt
mallardhealhook 15/Jul/12 2nd
Rick Ashton 20/May/12 2nd O/S

Tough start with little gear. Was freezing though and cold hands did not help

with Robert Drynda
BALD EAGLE 12/May/12 Lead
with Will Wykes, Rob Horler
lukerathmell 15/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Rachel Bennett
lazzaw 01/Apr/12 TR rpt
with Jason Wilber
bpmclimb 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 26/Mar/12 2nd dog

Slipped off near start at first cruxy bit. Got back on and finished.

with Brian
ape1980 24/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Jude, lazzaw
lazzaw 24/Mar/12 TR O/S
Hey Jude 24/Mar/12 TR
lukerathmell 24/Mar/12 TR
with steve
Hidden 24/Mar/12 TR
clams ??/2012 Lead β

Not quite sure about year

with Toby
pete1993 05/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Matt
mattorford 05/Nov/11 Lead

just below the bombhole was very wet, so had to go right. brilliant route

Rob Hirst 24/Oct/11 TR O/S
climbingchica 16/Oct/11 2nd
beardy mike 16/Oct/11 Lead β

Led this this time, rather than backing off. I found that you can get to the shatterhole directly - rather than going right very tenuously you can reach a good hold up left from the lowest concretions, then smear and move up much more easily to the shatter hole. This must be original grade E1 5a I'm sure - it felt like 5a. It's still runout as hell so E1, and the top was a bit sketchy as the cracks are a bit muddy (and moist on this ascent)

davenev 11/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Bold start - but enough gear afterwards. Micks first E1 lead :)

with mick
Hidden 03/Oct/11 TR O/S
robertcunningham86 30/Aug/11 2nd
tomshanti 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

nice delicate bold start.the rest has some gear!bit fluttery starting the traverse,may have gone a bit high.thoroughly enjoyable

with Will
Quarryboy 19/Jun/11 Lead β

The climbing and the gear are both really tenuous, you never really feel safe or secure at any point. You just try to hold your nerve whilst teetering your way up the slab.

Stanners 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Hardest E1 I've second so far.

Mr-Cowdrey 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

first E1 lead! Difficult start but linked moves, fine cli,bing from there on.

with Lorcan O'Brien
stuntsbyjon ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/11 TR O/S
jamespreston01 16/Apr/11 TR O/S
bpmclimb 15/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Only E1 5b, but high in both grades. Lower slab seems to have gotten a little polished.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 15/Apr/11 2nd
darren hudson 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

fingery start, top section difficult to protect

with David Ford
bpmclimb 07/Apr/11 TR rpt
with Shunt
kelliroberts3 ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
nick hawkins 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 16/Aug/10 Lead rpt

On reflection, 5b and maybe just E2.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 16/Aug/10 2nd
jezb1 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Quality route. Delicate start and bold but positive traverse.

remus 02/Aug/10 2nd rpt
hardoreVdiffBen 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Remus
Hidden 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S
andy dunn 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S

could really have done with a clean... but who want's beta eh?

with Adam, Big Gay Jordo
Hidden 23/Jul/10 2nd O/S
MarkRyder 26/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 26/Jul/09 2nd dog

Start is very thin but good fun. Torrential rain halfway up meant dogging up the rest was the only way as you cant smear on mud in the rain...

with Mark
Greg Pittam 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Clare & Garry
paul1234 12/Jun/09 2nd
with luke
luke13 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dec
bobumf 31/May/09 2nd O/S
with Alan Howells
sadlerbrett 21/May/09 TR dog

First E1 so really pleased even with a couple of slips. Great route!

with Chris Horobin
cas smerdon 20/May/09 2nd
with mark j and trevor
tebs 04/May/09 2nd rpt

Wasn't sure about this so backed off the lead pretty early. I shouldn't have worried, it's pretty straightforward if thought provoking and run out, the hardest climbing is the 10 metres up to the gear i retreated from.

with Mike
lemon 01/Mar/09 -

Traverse from the corner to Rob's Crack is absolutely filthy making the delicate moves much harder. Needs a good clean!

with Martin Davies
Martin Davies 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Good climb, committing traverse. Recommend cleaning it first, there was a layer of fine soil on the foot holds which made it much harder for the leader. Good route!

SteWatkins ?/Mar/09 Lead
Humpty Dangler 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S

A must for the Spinal Tap fan looking for perspective, (too much f*cking perspective...). But wow, intense. Moves up to the blast hole at 6 - 7m are unprotected, I managed to get a micro-wire into a tiny crack but didn't trust it. A real trial of your slab technique; get it wrong and you'll get 3m up, only to slide straight back down again; get the body shape right, find the footholds and hey presto, it works. I couldn't quite believe it when I made the blast hole for a much needed rest. The remainder of the route never felt in doubt, the thin traverse worked first time; hello again to Rob's Crack for 5m then the direct finish. This one can never be played. Look, still got the tagger on it...

with Alan Howells
Sam Pictor 16/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Nathan
timharrison 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
James Moyle 08/May/08 Lead O/S

Nice - good pro but quite run out between placements

with D. Murphy
Hidden 20/Apr/08 Lead O/S
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
chris sm 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Did direct finish at E1 ish.

with Ian Butterworth
Mark Davies PK 07/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with Brian
bpmclimb 07/Oct/07 Lead rpt

I don't think there's a case for upgrading this - solid E1 IMO

with Mark, Clare
Ybot Htulk ?/Sep/07 Lead
with Rem
homerisgod 29/Aug/07 Lead
with jeremy wade
kevinknights 25/Aug/07 2nd O/S

hard start, then OK

Jason Gotel ?/Aug/07 Lead
with Mike Alderton
remus 04/Feb/07 Lead rpt
John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
gringoloco ??/2007 2nd
with Colin Charles
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
The Mountain Goat 19/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 19/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
upontop ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Chris
remus 09/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Phil Butler
Hidden 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 31/May/06 Lead O/S

Not very comforting pro.

with Clare
KRB 21/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
beardy mike ??/2006 2nd
with Rob Scheicl
Mark Salter ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Shorrock
John Wellbelove 12/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/04 2nd
JamieAyres 05/Jun/04 2nd O/S
Paz 15/May/04 Lead O/S
with SA LC, JM
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2004 Lead O/S
Peter Swift ??/2004 TR dog

i think this is a E2

Hidden ??/2004 Lead
MikeC59 15/Aug/03 Lead
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
with Pete Clarke
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 53
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set