35m. Start on the left side of the slab and climb boldly to a blast-shattered alcove. Climb up, veer rightwards as you near the corner, and traverse delicately right to join Rob's Crack where it bends right. Leave that route and climb direct to the top.

M Raine, M Hammill 06/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.


ClimberDateStyle
Oliver Smaje 24/Jul Lead O/S
with Sid
omaskrey 14/Jul Lead O/S
with Hazel
Hazel Morgan 13/Jul 2nd O/S

Moving up to the shatterhole was a sketchfest but after that no stress

with Oli
DanJennings 08/Jul 2nd
with Joe, Grace
Mayaculpa 08/Jul TR
with Mike Rotraxion
graceefisher 08/Jul 2nd
JoeCoxson 08/Jul Lead O/S

Tough moves up into the break and pleasant after that

JakeBest 08/Jul TR
with Dan Everitt
Hidden 07/Jul TR O/S
ricci.andrea86 23/Jun Lead O/S
suddy 21/Jun Lead O/S
with Luke Wilding-Steele
Christabel Goode 21/Jun 2nd O/S
Robrossmills 21/Jun Lead O/S
The Screaming Finn 21/Jun 2nd O/S
with CarlWH, Luke von Freeden
LukeWS 21/Jun 2nd O/S
with Sud
lukevf 21/Jun Lead O/S
with CarlWH
Carl 21/Jun 2nd O/S
with Luke Von Freeden, Rob Siitonen
Robin Woodward 13/Jun Lead

Finally came back to this after realising I was trying to climb an eliminate line previously to the right. Nice route, getting to the blast recess felt tough at the grade compared to other E1's & 2's in the quarry. Fairly straight-forward after that, nice moves on the traverse to the corner of Rob's Crack.

badgerjockey 11/Jun 2nd O/S

Decent gear but sparse first off then again in the middle. Insecure start, absorbing above. Great route.

with aiyer
RobScarisbrick 11/Jun 2nd O/S
with Alex Haines
Hidden 11/Jun Lead rpt
aiyer 11/Jun Lead O/S

Nearly had an epic getting to the alcove.

with Harry
Graham Westbrook 25/May Lead O/S
cheeky 25/May 2nd
Jonnyseale 25/May 2nd
petecallaghan 13/May 2nd rpt
Whitmoreaa 13/May Lead O/S
with Louis
EllieWoods 13/May Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May 2nd
Hidden 06/May 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/May Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr 2nd O/S
Phil 29/Apr Lead O/S
ali.scott 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Freya, mattharper
samparsons 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Emmie
emmafizzle 23/Apr 2nd β
dave_is 23/Apr Lead O/S

Excellent route, the start is getting smooth in places but still perfectly usable, unprotectable to 6m, a boulder mat for confidence is nice.

mattharper 23/Apr 2nd O/S
with Freya, ali.scott
FreyaD 23/Apr 2nd
Wendy Watthews 22/Apr 2nd O/S
with Luke
Hidden 19/Apr 2nd
Hidden 19/Apr Lead rpt
Mayaculpa 09/Apr TR
with Alex
Hidden 05/Apr 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Apr Lead O/S
TomGudgeon 27/Mar Lead RP

Thin start, but a fun climb all round after the scoop. Could do with a clean at the top due to mud.

Hidden 25/Mar Lead
myrddinmuse 25/Mar Lead O/S

Awesome climb, not my style at all, but I was glad to get the lead in! Need to bring smaller micros next time... Crux is lankable. Cheers for the inspiration Meg

steve-grigg 25/Mar 2nd
Hidden 01/Jan Lead
Hidden ??/2017 -
Mayaculpa 13/Oct/16 TR
c357 04/Oct/16 Lead O/S
BU6330 24/Aug/16 Lead O/S
leland stamper 24/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with BU6330
John Wellbelove 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
AndyMorrall 10/Aug/16 2nd
just one more 09/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with rich h, Max B
Martin Bagshaw 05/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ed Green
Hulda 23/Jul/16 Lead
with Andi
Andrew1 23/Jul/16 2nd
with Hulda
WilliamRupp 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Tom courtiour 11/Jul/16 Lead O/S
el_monty 10/Jul/16 2nd β
with Paddy, Harrison
Steve Woollard 05/Jul/16 Lead

still recon the start is 5c

with Chris
Hidden 05/Jul/16 2nd
AAhmed 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S

First E1, worked first with top rope previously.

ngreen 19/Jun/16 Lead
with Jonreece
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Lead
AAhmed 05/Jun/16 TR

Hard move at the start. Once at first ledge ok-ish.

with ngreen
Mayaculpa 04/Jun/16 TR
with Alex
Cheese Monkey 27/May/16 Lead β

Crux took a bit of figuring out but got there eventually

just one more 27/May/16 2nd rpt
nikki_a_swan 14/May/16 2nd
with NaCl
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead O/S
markfromstoke 13/May/16 2nd
with Ian, Steve N
Robin Woodward ?/May/16 Lead dnf

Got to about 4 m up and lunged left for a pocket ledge which turned out to be way off route so retreated and left for another day.

Jenny Dart ?/May/16 2nd
with Robin
afterthesend 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 23/Apr/16 TR
Mayaculpa 02/Apr/16 TR
Melonfly 29/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Went up crux without the good (obviously chalky) pocket (slight to right on rough unpolished bulge). May of went too far along Robs Crack, slung tree. Downclimbed, then direct. Good fun.

with James
James S 29/Feb/16 2nd
with melty
Laurence20 24/Feb/16 Solo O/S
jhobbs 22/Nov/15 TR O/S
Mayaculpa 18/Oct/15 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
ipegg 18/Oct/15 Lead
petecallaghan 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Exciting start - my foot slipped on the bold first section, but I managed to stay on.

with Scott
Hidden 18/Oct/15 TR O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Rafal Malczyk 18/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Ian Pegg
WillAndrew 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead RP
kelliroberts3 19/Aug/15 2nd
Pete Rigby 19/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Kelli Roberts
cpoad 15/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Used a mat for start

with John S
Vnockles 25/Jul/15 2nd
with Alex Smith
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead
Hexman 30/Jun/15 Lead G/U

Slipped off the start and hit the ground first time. Got it second attempt, there's just enough gear.

with Elaine Smithson
BBEENN 29/Jun/15 TR
Mayaculpa 27/Jun/15 2nd

Started slipping before the alcove

with Michael H
Felix Ottey 27/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
lukerathmell 16/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with emma holland, Carl Stubbs
carl_123 16/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Luxulyan 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kev Brown
Wevcore 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Rich
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd
tobydunford 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Paul Baller 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
LovelyMrTom 28/May/15 Lead dnf

Couldn't commit to the big move up to the slot so backed off. Need to come back when feeling taller.

lakeyross 26/May/15 Lead O/S

wow, first proper E1! boom! Yes! really nice climb on a slab. lots of solid hand holds, not much gear.

miriamclaire 25/May/15 2nd O/S
with hutchay
miriamclaire 25/May/15 Lead β
with hutchay
hutchay 25/May/15 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 21/May/15 Lead O/S
Legs 21/May/15 Lead O/S

Bold start. Really fun route.

with Steve
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead
cdpuk 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Fun (bold) start. Started to rain at 3/4 height to make it more interesting for the 2nds.

Hidden 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd dog
Bob Peters ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead rpt
climbEdclimb 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Cameron Ree
Fatclimber 08/Apr/15 TR
with Self Belayed
Matt Smith 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/15 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Feb/15 2nd dog
Adam Hill 04/Jan/15 Lead

Greasy start, ok after the blast hole. With Zach, Ollie and Simon

with Zach
Pete Rigby ??/2015 Lead rpt
with Kelli Roberts
Slick 26/Oct/14 Lead
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Isabel Evans
Hidden 26/Oct/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 12/Oct/14 Lead
with Ted Lister
Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Ian JL 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd
katiep 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Felt hard and thin at the start. Nice to scare myself a bit though.

with Callan
JulianB 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Scary from the ground with no pro for 6m

callans 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Technical, start is thin! Most enjoyable.

just one more 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with john smith
Steve Woollard 11/Sep/14 Lead

The start must be 5c, harder than 4 Steps, but the rest is a lot easier, but very pleasant and well protected so E1 overall

Hidden 11/Sep/14 2nd O/S
steve-grigg 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
David Maddison 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/14 TR O/S
Paul Eckton 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Amy Devereux
Hidden 23/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead
Fjsinclair 04/Aug/14 2nd
will_benfold 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Pintsize 22/Jun/14 2nd
felixizzy 10/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Craig
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Uncomfortably bold with non-existent / fiddly gear for most of the first half. Good though.

Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd
BallsOfSteel 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Felix
felixizzy 18/May/14 Lead β

Sean lead, thought it looked too good to second so got him to strip the gear and went up after.

with Sean
tskelhon ?/May/14 2nd
clmacdonald ?/May/14 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
kirsten 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Brian
BALD EAGLE 12/Apr/14 2nd
with Kevin Van Colina
Hidden 12/Apr/14 2nd dog
Tristypants 17/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Felt high in the grade, scary start (marginal tiny RP placement found)! Ended up on Rob's Crack near end...

with Bec Chalkley
Hidden 17/Mar/14 2nd
The Ivanator 15/Mar/14 TR O/S

Good 5b moves at start to blast hole, would be bold on lead.

with Toby, Rich
sheelba 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd
Echna 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Rich
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd rpt
TDSvejstrup 05/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Harder than 4 steps I reckon (at the bottom) and bolder!

zcsharp 05/Mar/14 2nd

Definatly felt hard for the grade, especially since my partner had to do it in slightly wet conditions.

with Danish
duncan 12/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Pete Randall 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Pete Neden
BFG 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Lower section unprotected but big holds, above the recess the gear gets better, after the traverse right the route is basically done. Top is muddy at the moment mind.

with James Orde Powlett
zadurrani 14/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Made the mistake of moving to the left before the alcove and was dragged down with loose rock. Lucky escape with few bruises.

Hidden 29/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Matthew Martin Wsm 25/Aug/13 TR

tricky moves quite sustained

with marc fenton
katemurphy_@hotmail 11/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
AndyF 10/Aug/13 2nd
with Echna
Echna 10/Aug/13 Lead rpt

After toproping it 2 month before.

with Andy
Hidden 10/Aug/13 TR O/S
MoWalker3 07/Aug/13 -
with Cormac
Chazwoz 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 24/Jul/13 2nd β

Bit of a scary start I guess...

with Iggy, Ben
Cheese Monkey 24/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Iggy, Peter
squicky 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Nice bold start. Technical but never difficult. Sustained with good gear after the corner. Possibly hard for the grade given the start.

with Ben, Peter
petegunn 21/Jul/13 2nd
with Davina
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Felix Ottey 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Vnockles 30/Jun/13 2nd
cameron_hall 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Really happy with myself for getting this. Lovely, challenging, consistent climbing

beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
thomb 18/Jun/13 Lead rpt

the finish is not quite as vegetated/muddy as it looks from below.

with Kat
katherinesydney 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Paul_southgate68 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S

All about the bottom half! Bold and felt high in the grade. Great fun nice and techy, just how I like it!

with shane dawson
grp 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Griff1990 05/Jun/13 2nd O/S
AndyF 04/Jun/13 Lead RP

1st E1 lead. Well pleased - nice technical, climbing with long run-outs!

with Gregor, Mike
Echna 04/Jun/13 2nd β

Will go as a lead as soon as I'm more confident with my gear placements.

markfromstoke 03/Jun/13 -
with Steve S
tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
Georgia H ?/Jun/13 2nd
thomb 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 18/May/13 2nd
bryan61 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with berny
Maxim2023 ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
kate tarrant ?/May/13 2nd β
Hidden 23/Apr/13 TR rpt
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
MartinN 03/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead β
LukeyG 19/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
bradfry 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
kirsten 08/Sep/12 2nd
with Mick
Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Tom Frost 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/12 TR
Dale ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S

The start is a little run out but a very good landing. Did the Direct Finish which is the top half of the E3

with stu
tommytom 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Pete Rigby 15/Jul/12 Solo rpt
mikeyjbs 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
mallardhealhook 15/Jul/12 2nd
riddle 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Rick Ashton 20/May/12 2nd O/S

Tough start with little gear. Was freezing though and cold hands did not help

with Robert Drynda
BALD EAGLE 12/May/12 Lead
with Will Wykes, Rob Horler
lukerathmell 15/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Rachel Bennett
lazzaw 01/Apr/12 TR rpt
with Jason Wilber
Hidden 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
wurzelinzummerset 26/Mar/12 2nd dog

Slipped off near start at first cruxy bit. Got back on and finished.

with Brian
lazzaw 24/Mar/12 TR O/S
lukerathmell 24/Mar/12 TR
with steve
Hidden 24/Mar/12 TR
Hey Jude 24/Mar/12 TR
ape1980 24/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Jude, lazzaw
clams ??/2012 Lead β

Not quite sure about year

with Toby
pete1993 05/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Matt
mattorford 05/Nov/11 Lead

just below the bombhole was very wet, so had to go right. brilliant route

Rob Hirst 24/Oct/11 TR O/S
climbingchica 16/Oct/11 2nd
beardy mike 16/Oct/11 Lead β

Led this this time, rather than backing off. I found that you can get to the shatterhole directly - rather than going right very tenuously you can reach a good hold up left from the lowest concretions, then smear and move up much more easily to the shatter hole. This must be original grade E1 5a I'm sure - it felt like 5a. It's still runout as hell so E1, and the top was a bit sketchy as the cracks are a bit muddy (and moist on this ascent)

davenev 11/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Bold start - but enough gear afterwards. Micks first E1 lead :)

with mick
Hidden 03/Oct/11 TR O/S
robertcunningham86 30/Aug/11 2nd
tomshanti 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

nice delicate bold start.the rest has some gear!bit fluttery starting the traverse,may have gone a bit high.thoroughly enjoyable

with Will
Stanners 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Hardest E1 I've second so far.

Quarryboy 19/Jun/11 Lead β

The climbing and the gear are both really tenuous, you never really feel safe or secure at any point. You just try to hold your nerve whilst teetering your way up the slab.

Mr-Cowdrey 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

first E1 lead! Difficult start but linked moves, fine cli,bing from there on.

with Lorcan O'Brien
stuntsbyjon ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/11 TR O/S
jamespreston01 16/Apr/11 TR O/S
Huntlyfiddler 15/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/11 Lead rpt
darren hudson 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

fingery start, top section difficult to protect

with David Ford
Hidden 07/Apr/11 TR rpt
kelliroberts3 ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
nick hawkins 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 16/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead rpt
jezb1 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Quality route. Delicate start and bold but positive traverse.

Hidden 02/Aug/10 2nd rpt
hardoreVdiffBen 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Remus
evhall 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S

very slippery at the bottom - not much gear at all!

with jerzy
Hidden 23/Jul/10 2nd O/S
andy dunn 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S

could really have done with a clean... but who want's beta eh?

with Adam, Big Gay Jordo
MarkRyder 26/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 26/Jul/09 2nd dog

Start is very thin but good fun. Torrential rain halfway up meant dogging up the rest was the only way as you cant smear on mud in the rain...

with Mark
Greg Pittam 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Clare & Garry
paul1234 12/Jun/09 2nd
with luke
luke13 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dec
bobumf 31/May/09 2nd O/S
with Alan Howells
sadlerbrett 21/May/09 TR dog

First E1 so really pleased even with a couple of slips. Great route!

with Chris Horobin
cas smerdon 20/May/09 2nd
with mark j and trevor
tebs 04/May/09 2nd rpt

Wasn't sure about this so backed off the lead pretty early. I shouldn't have worried, it's pretty straightforward if thought provoking and run out, the hardest climbing is the 10 metres up to the gear i retreated from.

with Mike
lemon 01/Mar/09 -

Traverse from the corner to Rob's Crack is absolutely filthy making the delicate moves much harder. Needs a good clean!

with Martin Davies
Martin Davies 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Good climb, committing traverse. Recommend cleaning it first, there was a layer of fine soil on the foot holds which made it much harder for the leader. Good route!

SteWatkins ?/Mar/09 Lead
Humpty Dangler 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S

A must for the Spinal Tap fan looking for perspective, (too much f*cking perspective...). But wow, intense. Moves up to the blast hole at 6 - 7m are unprotected, I managed to get a micro-wire into a tiny crack but didn't trust it. A real trial of your slab technique; get it wrong and you'll get 3m up, only to slide straight back down again; get the body shape right, find the footholds and hey presto, it works. I couldn't quite believe it when I made the blast hole for a much needed rest. The remainder of the route never felt in doubt, the thin traverse worked first time; hello again to Rob's Crack for 5m then the direct finish. This one can never be played. Look, still got the tagger on it...

with Alan Howells
Sam Pictor 16/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Nathan
Hidden 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
James Moyle 08/May/08 Lead O/S

Nice - good pro but quite run out between placements

with D. Murphy
Hidden 20/Apr/08 Lead O/S
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
chris sm 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Did direct finish at E1 ish.

with Ian Butterworth
Mark Davies PK 07/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with Brian
Hidden 07/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Ybot Htulk ?/Sep/07 Lead
with Rem
homerisgod 29/Aug/07 Lead
with jeremy wade
kevinknights 25/Aug/07 2nd O/S

hard start, then OK

Jason Gotel ?/Aug/07 Lead
with Mike Alderton
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead rpt
John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
gringoloco ??/2007 2nd
with Colin Charles
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 19/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
The Mountain Goat 19/Sep/06 2nd O/S
upontop ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 09/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 31/May/06 2nd
Hidden 31/May/06 Lead O/S
KRB 21/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
beardy mike ??/2006 2nd
with Rob Scheicl
Mark Salter ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Shorrock
John Wellbelove 12/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/04 2nd
JamieAyres 05/Jun/04 2nd O/S
Paz 15/May/04 Lead O/S
with SA LC, JM
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
Peter Swift ??/2004 TR dog

i think this is a E2

tom.e ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
MikeC59 15/Aug/03 Lead
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
with Pete Clarke
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 57
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set