35m. Climb Rob's crack for 6m, step right, and climb to a pancake. Continue to a horizontal break; then step right and climb directly to the top on good holds.

I Butterworth, N Hillman, M Raine, R Nadin. 13/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

JonesE 02/Sep Lead O/S

This is full value at E2. Thin moves with gear far below. Was pretty happy to get to the horizontal break. Very good though.

Hidden 02/Sep 2nd dog
Sam O'Rourke 11/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug Lead dog
DanJennings 08/Jul 2nd
with Joe
JoeCoxson 08/Jul Lead O/S

Good but spaced gear. Couple of good hard moves

graceefisher 08/Jul 2nd dnf
just one more 05/Jul Lead rpt
with rich h, Max B
hairy51 03/Jul 2nd O/S
Longsufferingropeholder 24/Jun Lead O/S

Some testy moves above gear. Thought this was more exciting than moving target. Pulled off a foothold to reveal an almost identical foothold. No real change.

with C May
C May 24/Jun 2nd O/S
with Tim
Sam116 24/Jun 2nd O/S

Enjoyable second, gear looked quite sparse for the leader. Took a moment of thinking before getting up the crux on some interesting moves.

with Jose
Hidden 24/Jun 2nd O/S
JoeGross 24/Jun Lead dog
The Screaming Finn 21/Jun 2nd O/S
lukevf 21/Jun Lead O/S
Carl 21/Jun 2nd O/S
with Rob S, Luke von Freeden
aiyer 11/Jun 2nd
with Harry
badgerjockey 11/Jun Lead O/S

Gripping but fun. Didn't see the bomber gear at the pancake!? Got a wire thread somewhere else though. Tiny tiny feet and some imaginary holds. The good gear is very sparse... Chuffed.

with aiyer
67hours 25/May 2nd O/S
with Steve "d00D" Gibbs
steve_gibbs 25/May Lead O/S
with George Cave
petecallaghan 13/May Lead rpt
Hidden 13/May 2nd
Whitmoreaa 13/May Lead O/S
with Louis
EllieWoods 13/May 2nd O/S
Wendy Watthews 22/Apr Lead rpt

Last lead of the day fared a bit committing to the run out

with Luke
beardy mike 13/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jan Lead
Hidden 20/Nov/16 2nd
Hidden 20/Nov/16 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Oct/16 TR
TimCul 11/Sep/16 2nd
Stanners 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
BU6330 24/Aug/16 Lead O/S
leland stamper 24/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with BU6330
will_benfold 13/Aug/16 Lead rpt
label 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Gabe Oliver 12/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Not a whole lot easier than Moving Target in the mid section but way less sustained.

with Becca
AndyMorrall 10/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Clay C 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Will A, Ross
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Tom courtiour 11/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 04/Jul/16 TR
with Shunt
Hidden 02/Jul/16 TR
julesmckim 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Perhaps soft for E2 but thoroughly enjoyable all the way

Ruth ND 01/Jun/16 TR O/S
Cheese Monkey 27/May/16 Lead dnf

Rained/rivered off just above the pancake. Managed to slide into Robs Crack to retreat

Hidden 15/May/16 Lead rpt
amester 14/May/16 TR dog

Interesting climb with small holds but the crack is good once you reach it (took longer for a small person!), 1 big fall but apart from that a nice climb

cdpuk 08/May/16 Lead O/S
RobScarisbrick 08/May/16 2nd
with cdpuk
Martin Bagshaw 01/May/16 Lead O/S
with Tom Hudson
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/16 Lead
Melonfly 29/Feb/16 2nd O/S
with James
James S 29/Feb/16 Lead O/S
with melty
Laurence20 24/Feb/16 Solo O/S
petecallaghan 22/Nov/15 TR rpt
Hidden 18/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Neil Rigiani 18/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with James Hill-Reid, Dave Coley
petecallaghan 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S

What a fabulous climb. Only my second E2 lead, the first this year. It's delicate and sustained throughout, once it diverges from Robs Crack, with just enough protection.

Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/15 TR
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Vnockles 25/Jul/15 Lead dog

Got off route- went too far left and ended up on a black section

with Alex Smith
felixizzy 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Great hangover cure. The gear just below the run out was bomber so no real worries.

with Craig
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
dansimkin 04/Jul/15 TR O/S
e9mark 23/Jun/15 2nd
Felix Ottey 21/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Luxulyan 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kev Brown
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Wevcore 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Rich
Hidden ?/Jun/15 2nd
Paul Baller 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
Hugobristol 28/May/15 Lead O/S

Great, sustained slab climbing.

with Riccy, Pippa
riccynino 28/May/15 2nd dog
with Pippa Churcher, Hugo
Tom Seccombe 20/May/15 Lead O/S
with Wayne
Bob Peters ?/May/15 Lead O/S

First onsight e2. Chuffed

Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Matt Smith 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Freaked out a bit on this... small and sparse gear above the "pancake" (couldn't see the "good" gear by the pancake, maybe its shattered). Slightly friable on crux also. Definitely a thinker... E3 5c?

AlexRenshaw 12/Oct/14 Lead
with Ted Lister
Hidden 10/Oct/14 Lead
Larey 01/Oct/14 2nd dog
with Max Ayrton
Steve Woollard 11/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/14 2nd O/S
petegruf 07/Sep/14 2nd
Paul Eckton 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with steve read
cem 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/14 TR
MoWalker3 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Cormac
thomb 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
markfromstoke 25/Jun/14 2nd
with Adrian, Ian
ian d f 25/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Adrian, Mark
bpmclimb 19/May/14 Lead rpt
nicknicely 19/May/14 2nd dog
with brian
Hidden 19/May/14 Lead
Vincej 19/May/14 2nd
with Nevil
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Oddjob 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Rosie
NB Pixel 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Thin moves quite high above gear- do-able if short but technical.

with Tom
Tubs 16/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Jumped off downclimbing from the end of the runout before things got any worse. Not one for us midgets.

with Naomi
sheelba 15/Mar/14 2nd
TDSvejstrup 05/Mar/14 2nd O/S
zcsharp 05/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Danish
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Hidden 12/Oct/13 2nd O/S
duncan 12/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Dave Thompson 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
Kevster 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
Hidden 18/Aug/13 TR
Felix Ottey 18/Aug/13 Lead β

Fantastic route nearly fell from the crux which would have seen me take a huge fall but excellent none the less. 3*

Phil Layton 13/Aug/13 TR O/S

Good to test out what I can do, but leading this route will require greater mental fitness.

Hidden 24/Jul/13 2nd
petegunn 21/Jul/13 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
will_benfold 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Tom Palfreman
jon_ridley 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Liam_T 01/Jun/13 2nd β

Tough, fingery crux which was hard on the toes!

Owen W-G 01/Jun/13 Lead β

Abbed down it after Liam led Robs crack to check there was actually gear, turns out it is mostly pretty good too, but crux felt run out, thin and scary, anyone who thinks this is E1 is a joker!

with Liam
bryan61 06/May/13 2nd O/S

great lead by berny

with berny
Maxim2023 ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
kate tarrant ?/May/13 2nd β
bpmclimb 14/Apr/13 TR rpt
with Shunt
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
lewiz 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
kirsten 15/Sep/12 2nd

up another grade notch, made a lot of fuss but did it in one go

LukeyG 03/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/12 2nd O/S
wilkinscl ?/Sep/12 Lead β
lukerathmell 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Rachel Bennett
arandall 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Wendy did rob's crack, and i did this instead :)

with Liz, Wendy Matthews
Wendy Watthews 23/Aug/12 TR O/S
Mark Davies PK 22/Aug/12 TR rpt
with Mr Shunt
Huntlyfiddler 19/Aug/12 2nd
bpmclimb 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Leon. D 28/Jul/12 2nd
with jobbo
Jobbo 28/Jul/12 2nd
tommytom 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/12 Lead dnf
mikeyjbs 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
riddle 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/12 TR O/S
Hidden 31/May/12 TR O/S
Dawlish 30/May/12 Lead β

previously seconded this

with pete
Hidden 30/May/12 2nd
The Ivanator 28/May/12 2nd

Misread one move and had a slip, fine when I found a better hold. A good climb.

with Jez
jezb1 28/May/12 Lead

Went to far right at about one third height and ended up on another route, which I then fell off. Got back on correct line and carried on. Quite straight forwards of you go the correct way...

BALD EAGLE 12/May/12 2nd
with Will Wykes
Hidden 07/Apr/12 TR
nick hawkins 07/Apr/12 -
Dawlish 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Bristoldave 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Dawlish
sweenyt 26/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Tom M
benkelsey 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

fairly thin moves before massive break when its all over.. wouldn't want it to be much steeper. really good though

with Chris Kelsey
RossT 14/Aug/11 TR
with Reg
RossT 14/Aug/11 TR
with Reg
stuntsbyjon ?/Jul/11 Lead dog
Didymus 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Josh&Thomas
Mark Davies PK 16/Jun/11 TR rpt
with Mr Shunt
Ruth ND 07/Jun/11 2nd β
with Ev
evhall 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S

lovely route - crux is rather thin just below break

with Ruth
riddle 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great route, hairy moments before the horizontal break.

with Yasmina
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd
Dale ?/May/11 Lead O/S

Very fun slab climbing. Gets E3 5c in book its not Easy E2 5c right grade. Thought Epic-dural was harder and scarier at E2 maybe that should be E3.

with dave
Hidden 26/Apr/11 TR O/S
jamespreston01 10/Apr/11 TR rpt
jamespreston01 10/Apr/11 TR O/S
onlyfoddington 29/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Kayan 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/11 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Mar/11 Lead
Pete Rigby ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
bpmclimb 22/Oct/10 TR rpt

To get to the top for my slings.

with Helen S
Phil PBC ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd β
Huntlyfiddler 16/Aug/10 2nd
bpmclimb 16/Aug/10 Lead rpt

E2 seems about right.

with Clare
tommytuffa 21/Jul/10 Lead β
with jay, tomar
Tomar 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Watch that run out at midway.

with Tom
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
The Ivanator 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S

I'm not an E3 climber usually so I guess this must be easy for the grade, a couple of thinnish moves, but more like E1 5b I'd say.

with Sean
Perryman 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 19/Aug/09 2nd dog
with andy wylie, bobby gilbert
Bobby Gilbert 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Fairly easy. Thought it should be E1

gaz.marshall 14/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Luke
tobydunford 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
paul1234 12/Jun/09 2nd
with Dec
deklan 11/Jun/09 Lead
with mike + paul
eddy-on-the-rocks 28/May/09 Lead O/S
with Geoff
chris sm 10/May/09 Lead rpt
with Damien ?
AlexD 03/May/09 Lead O/S
joeurwin 03/May/09 2nd O/S

amazing climb. Lots of smearing and tricky, balancy moves.

with alex & Dan Bruniges
upontop 01/May/09 Lead O/S
with Julie
Neil Tucker ?/Sep/08 Lead
with Andras Pinter
Hidden 02/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Justin T 02/Aug/08 Lead β

Clean after abseil inspection. E2 5c?

with Wifey
AJM 16/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Good route. Interesting technical climbing in sometimes bold positions.

Hidden 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/May/08 2nd dog
Mark Stevenson 21/May/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 21/May/08 2nd O/S
chris sm 17/May/08 Lead rpt

No more than E1.

with Pippa Froggatt
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead rpt
chris sm 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S

V. soft for E3.

with Ian Butterworth
kevinknights 25/Aug/07 2nd O/S


Hidden 06/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Ed Babs ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
jon bradley ?/May/07 Lead O/S

Even though the thread has broken out, you can still get a runner in above the pancake

with Dave Card
John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
Silum ??/2007 Lead
bpmclimb 03/Nov/06 Lead O/S

The little thread just above the "pancake" is no longer a thread - the thin connecting pillar broke off.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 03/Nov/06 2nd
Somerset swede basher 19/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
The Mountain Goat 19/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Lev 04/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Claire Durant, Jo Stadden
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Mick Cooke
Mark Stevenson ??/2006 Lead
beardy mike ??/2006 2nd O/S
with Rob Scheicl
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Davis
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
KRB 02/Jan/05 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
cornishben ?/Jan/05 Lead O/S


Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
Hidden 19/Jun/04 -
just one more 19/Jun/04 Lead
with Max B, Svenn G
JamieAyres 05/Jun/04 2nd O/S
Paz ?/May/04 Lead
with AS
Ally Smith ?/May/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Macca_7 17/Nov/03 Lead O/S

First lead of E3 nice

with Simon Young
MikeC59 15/Aug/03 TR
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 39
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set