UKC

This fine ridge, one of the best in Scotland outside Skye, gives a splendid outing. Much variation is possible and this is the grade for the easiest line traversing from south to north.

FA. T.F.S Campbell, W. Douglas, J.H.Gibson, H.Fleming, R.A.Robertson, and Dr Leith 30/Jan/1892.

Ticklists

Top ridge scrambles of Britain , Five top-end ridge scrambles; from the UKH article , Scotland's Mountain Ridges by Dan Bailey , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Funros , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , UK Holiday Plans , British 3 Star Scrambles , Official SUMC (strathclyde) ticklist , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , The Classic, Easy Scottish Mountain Routes , Scotland Ticklist , Hayley and Sam Trad Hitlist up to HS , Greg's Scottish scrambles

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chris Forrest 2 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Superb traverse, but given the route finding, tricky down climbing and abseiling the grade is sadly doesn’t reflect this. There is easier VD/ Grade 3 scrambles than this. In the Alps this would be AD-, so overall this is at least Diff grading which prepares future scrambler’s/climbers. Recommend that a rope and min equipment is carried to ensure a safe passage. Yes I know that there is easier options , but following the most traveled and warn sections is what is recommended in guide books.
Show beta
βeta: Superb traverse, but given the route finding, tricky down climbing and abseiling the grade is sadly doesn’t reflect this. There is easier VD/ Grade 3 scrambles than this. In the Alps this would be AD-, so overall this is at least Diff grading which prepares future scrambler’s/climbers. Recommend that a rope and min equipment is carried to ensure a safe passage. Yes I know that there is easier options , but following the most traveled and warn sections is what is recommended in guide books.
sal_k 9 Jun Show βeta
βeta: If you want the best beta for the mauvais pas descent (downclimbing not abseiling) then look in SMC Highland Scrambles South.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you want the best beta for the mauvais pas descent (downclimbing not abseiling) then look in SMC Highland Scrambles South.
george caren 1 May Show βeta
βeta: Went S to N. 50m rope needed for the abseil (solid but rusty peg with tat). Very cool route but suspect some would want a rope for some of the bolder moves descending towards the bad step
Show beta
βeta: Went S to N. 50m rope needed for the abseil (solid but rusty peg with tat). Very cool route but suspect some would want a rope for some of the bolder moves descending towards the bad step
GCathcart5 18 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Rusty peg has a short length of tat for abseil from the mauvais pas (South to North) but no other in-situ gear. 2 ropes in-situ for abseil in 2 pitches.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rusty peg has a short length of tat for abseil from the mauvais pas (South to North) but no other in-situ gear. 2 ropes in-situ for abseil in 2 pitches.
AlexDartmoor 12 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: For solo hikers/scramblers: having just done the standard south to north direction today, I wonder if it would be better to go north to south? The zig zag ascent which avoids the Mauvais Pas abseil would be easier, and the slabs more pleasant...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For solo hikers/scramblers: having just done the standard south to north direction today, I wonder if it would be better to go north to south? The zig zag ascent which avoids the Mauvais Pas abseil would be easier, and the slabs more pleasant...
AndyBunting 20 May, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: If doing the route in May worth looking when the Mountain festival is as they cut the abseil station so perhaps extra tat needed if going to abseil the Mauvais Pas.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If doing the route in May worth looking when the Mountain festival is as they cut the abseil station so perhaps extra tat needed if going to abseil the Mauvais Pas.
Jachapman 11 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great day out, found the rusted peg for the ab and backed it up with a thread. A trip up and over goatfel to finish ?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great day out, found the rusted peg for the ab and backed it up with a thread. A trip up and over goatfel to finish ?
Daniel Paxton 23 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: South to North. Couldn't find fixed tat at the diving board- just a low spike with a couple of loose rocks on top near the rust peg! Guidebooks were confusing though. Went back to the step across and down climbed a nasty gravely gully to get past the mauvais pas abseil - strong east wind affected us as well.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: South to North. Couldn't find fixed tat at the diving board- just a low spike with a couple of loose rocks on top near the rust peg! Guidebooks were confusing though. Went back to the step across and down climbed a nasty gravely gully to get past the mauvais pas abseil - strong east wind affected us as well.
Chris.Brown87 11 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Tat was present on the peg and low spike for the abseil so unsure why others didn't find it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tat was present on the peg and low spike for the abseil so unsure why others didn't find it
David Cowley 10 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun. Some serious exposure in places. Started at 3pm after full mornings rain. Back at car just before 9pm
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great fun. Some serious exposure in places. Started at 3pm after full mornings rain. Back at car just before 9pm
Steveb27 9 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Bad Step ab with a 25m rope required 2 abs. Fixed tat was in place for both abs June 22
Show beta
βeta: Bad Step ab with a 25m rope required 2 abs. Fixed tat was in place for both abs June 22
wbradbeer 26 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Originally though the airy stride was the diving board which lead to a whole bunch of confusion. The correct order is downward facing slabs to a wide groove, airy stride between two stone planks, scramble on to the ridge ahead, walk 20m or so and you are on the diving board. There should be an old peg and a large flake with ab tat on it.
Show beta
βeta: Originally though the airy stride was the diving board which lead to a whole bunch of confusion. The correct order is downward facing slabs to a wide groove, airy stride between two stone planks, scramble on to the ridge ahead, walk 20m or so and you are on the diving board. There should be an old peg and a large flake with ab tat on it.
ebdon 5 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Theres a fixed rope on the north side of the bad step as of August 2019 ignore this as it goes nowhere
Show beta
βeta: Theres a fixed rope on the north side of the bad step as of August 2019 ignore this as it goes nowhere

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Voting
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
High D
Mid D
Low D
High M
Mid M
Low M
High none
Mid none
Low none
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Round of Glen Rosa

Grade: M ***
(Goatfell)

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