The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. Cerberus Speleological Society 1994.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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tarawatson | 26 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: loose rock throughout and crumbly | βeta? | |
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βeta: loose rock throughout and crumbly |
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JimOakleyAdventures | 3 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Nice warm up climb with Denise first lead for over a year. Glad of the big cams Go left at top otherwise you’ll be looking for belay stations on loose rumble ! | ||
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βeta: Nice warm up climb with Denise first lead for over a year. Glad of the big cams Go left at top otherwise you’ll be looking for belay stations on loose rumble ! |
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NigelHurst | 30 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: There's a few big loose blocks on climb so.test your handhelds; the top is a chossfest, managed to find 2 cams and a horizontal nut on the big block | βeta? | |
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βeta: There's a few big loose blocks on climb so.test your handhelds; the top is a chossfest, managed to find 2 cams and a horizontal nut on the big block |
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