35m. The groove in the right arÍte of the Conning Tower buttress. Very good value despite a rather loose finish.

R Connaly 1993

BusyLizzie 22/Oct/16 2nd rpt
with Jonny and Gabriel
runwildjohn 19/Oct/16 2nd
with Dave Rawlinson
markfromstoke 06/Oct/16 Lead
with Terry
matt_read 25/Sep/16 2nd
sajrf123 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
simonsnake77 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Easy climbing, very loose at the top. Had to belay off the trees well back from the edge. Good warmup.

Hidden 11/Sep/16 Solo
the ant hill mob 11/Sep/16 2nd
wilsers 29/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Warm up. Still think it's a nice route even if the last part is chossy. Took a 30m static line to set up the anchors then reset it for the Con.

with poops
Hidden 29/Aug/16 Solo
Hidden 29/Aug/16 2nd
MegBaker 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Navman
Bob Case 20/Aug/16 Lead
ScottTalbot 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Alice, Steve
Dan Wilcox 13/Aug/16 2nd
will_benfold 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Moving together, with three seconds. Great way to pass the time while we were waiting for the crag to dry out.

91dave 13/Aug/16 AltLd rpt

Moving together, in trainers, as a rope of four in the wet (waiting for the quarry to dry!). Great fun!

with Lucy Abel, Dan Wilcox, Will Benfold
label 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Footiemadhannah 10/Aug/16 2nd

Seconded this one, very loose at the top now!

Hidden 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S
HarryPalmer 07/Aug/16 2nd
with Gareth
markfromstoke 28/Jul/16 Solo
with Steve N
The Ivanator 17/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Best of its grade in the quarry.

with Kev
Hidden 03/Jul/16 Lead
JamieAyres 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Jude Ayres
Hidden 19/Jun/16 TR O/S
Patrick Moore 18/Jun/16 Lead

More of a scramble. Need 60m ropes to get to tree anchors as set so far back from edge.

with Skip Eei
Hidden 02/Jun/16 Solo rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/16 Solo
Mark Kemball 11/May/16 Lead O/S

Very damp!

MoWalker3 08/May/16 Solo
andrew.tyrrell 08/May/16 2nd O/S
with Matt
matt_batchelor 08/May/16 Lead
with Andrew
mikeydee135 30/Apr/16 2nd
with pete sarginson
91dave 23/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Sarah Hopkin
davidclare 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Talia Drew, Olly Light
Talia Drew 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Dave Clare, olly light
ah2013 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Matt H
Oliver Smaje 16/Apr/16 Solo
tim.rose2 16/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/16 2nd
Lukemeehan 13/Apr/16 Solo O/S
philhayes ?/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 25/Mar/16 2nd rpt
DavidWilby 25/Mar/16 2nd
with Nathan
Nathan Chrismas 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Entertaining enough as a warm up

with Dave
Steve Bartle 20/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Bob Peters 13/Mar/16 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead
Ana Broad 01/Nov/15 2nd

atmospheric in the mist, could hardly see the ground once we were at the top!

with Emma
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead dnf
ben.richards 20/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Elizabeth Stoughton
Piers Harley 18/Oct/15 Lead
with Simon Clark
petecallaghan 18/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Nice line

Hidden 18/Oct/15 2nd O/S
clairemathews 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Richard Apthorp, Liz Law
BusyLizzie 17/Oct/15 2nd
DozyDom 17/Oct/15 2nd
thetorbs 17/Oct/15 Lead
Rob Morgan 26/Sep/15 2nd
with Win-yei
Win-yei 26/Sep/15 Lead
with Rob
BusyLizzie 19/Sep/15 Lead

First time I led this I placed the whole rack. This time I used, I think, four pieces of gear. Lovely climb.

with Martin
Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
AAhmed 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S

With Adam Grace

Hidden 18/Aug/15 Lead
thomasmerry 18/Aug/15 2nd O/S
richie934 10/Aug/15 2nd
mjcostain 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
wilsers 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Lindsay Smith, Dave Woolsey, Stu Bardsley
modelmakerman 02/Aug/15 AltLd

Lead but protection already placed

redhead_climber 02/Aug/15 2nd
with Dave woolsey, stuart bardsley, andy wilson
Snorfalorpagus 01/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Lindsey Robinson
JCookie 25/Jul/15 2nd

Richard's lead

with Richard Plater, Steve Grey
RiPomc 25/Jul/15 Lead
with Steve Grey, Julie Cooke
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
rig 25/Jul/15 2nd
acer2012 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S
degibbs 20/Jul/15 2nd
hannesD 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with tony
dansimkin 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 02/Jul/15 Solo
Hidden 30/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Lizziemay 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S

First Trad lead :)

with Dave
Monkey_Alan 14/Jun/15 2nd
BALD EAGLE 14/Jun/15 2nd
Trace 14/Jun/15 Lead β
Fatclimber 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Kelwyn
Shaky Dog 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S


with Steve
Hidden 10/Jun/15 Solo
Hidden 08/Jun/15 Lead
Footiemadhannah 08/Jun/15 2nd

First trip back to Fairy Cave since the winter. Leon lead this VD climb. Nice easy route. Carried a second rope up for Heidi to come up too. Used the belay stance to set up another top rope and brought her up.

BusyLizzie 07/Jun/15 Lead

Wow! Great fun.

with Jonny
the ant hill mob 06/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Jessicacrump 06/Jun/15 Lead
carl_123 04/Jun/15 Lead rpt
catty_9 03/Jun/15 2nd β
with Sam Joseph
jhobbs 30/May/15 2nd O/S
Legs 28/May/15 2nd O/S

Sarah's first trad lead of the year!

with Sarah
Hidden 28/May/15 Lead
Mayaculpa 25/May/15 2nd
with Kate
onlyfoddington 18/May/15 Solo O/S
BALD EAGLE 16/May/15 2nd
with Pete Shone
cdpuk 10/May/15 2nd O/S

Alex's first lead (sorry). Also in the rain.

Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
dinodinosaur 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd O/S
KieranT 09/May/15 Lead O/S
with Karl Taylor
Hidden 09/May/15 Lead
Roch 09/May/15 Lead O/S
with Nat Hillier
matthewhayes120 09/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead rpt
sideshow84 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Limitless 04/May/15 2nd O/S
with Lee
amberr 30/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Lovely climb

cpoad 27/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with John S
Snorfalorpagus 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Luke Vincent
decoderdan 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
decoderdan 06/Apr/15 Solo β

Retrieved stuck rope

felixizzy 06/Apr/15 Solo rpt

Put gear in to protect Soph even though I wasn't on belay.

with Soph
Bob M 04/Apr/15 Lead
martin one 04/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Russel scummer
reece.robinson 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Barrington Brotherton, Ian Lambert
Lamberti 04/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
lazzaw 21/Mar/15 TR rpt

Retrieving a stuck nut. Enjoyable climbing

with Mick
barringtonbrotherton 03/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Reece Robinson
teh_mark 30/Dec/14 Lead

I can only recommend that this tottering choss heap is given a wide berth (literally) unless you have a longing for loose rock, rope-snagging bushes and inconvenient belays, or you want to bump your belayer off in a natural-looking accident. On the plus side it does take decent gear, at least.

with Adam Kidson
BusyLizzie 14/Dec/14 2nd
with Jonny
Matt Smith 30/Oct/14 Lead O/S
callans 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Very easy for a VD. Pleasant mod scramble with a short diff section at the crack. Slightly loose top.

katiep 19/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Nice enough scramble

with Callan
lazzaw 05/Oct/14 2nd rpt

Jonathan's 1st multi-pitch lead (well, if you count belaying 5m below the top as two pitches!)

with Jonathan Cook
Hidden 04/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Adam Hill 27/Sep/14 Lead

First Trad climb with Zach, great fun.

Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd O/S
cbonner 14/Sep/14 2nd rpt
IanElgy 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/14 2nd
91dave 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Oujmik ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S

What a great route! As soon as I stood at the bottom of this I knew I had to climb it, the rock is immaculate (where it matters) and the line is so natural it really doesn't feel like you're in a quarry at all. Starts easily with a scrambly run-out section then steepens to a grooved arete, the crux coming at a corner with a deep crack in the right wall, obvious from below. Some lovely moves here lead to a lessening of the angle and some loose rock. I belayed here to keep sight to my second and avoid dislodging rocks with the rope. Jyoti went straight past me to lead the last 5m.

with Jyoti
crater 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S

good "buddleia" belay at the top!!

with steve
Paul Eckton 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Amy Devereux
Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd
dereke12000 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch to before block stack, brought up Fin & Ian. Set up accompanied abseil down Balch's slide in the dark. All good practice...

with Fin, Ian
FinlayE141 20/Aug/14 TR O/S

Lots of loose rock near top

with Ian, Derek
cas smerdon 18/Aug/14 Lead
RiPomc 17/Aug/14 Lead
with Julie Cooke
JCookie 17/Aug/14 2nd
with Richard Plater
Hidden 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
felixizzy 07/Aug/14 Solo rpt
wilf 06/Aug/14 2nd O/S

great fun, clean rock until top, watch for loose stuff.

with Tom, nick f
Hidden 31/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead
Quarryboy 28/Jul/14 2nd

Seconding this helped me calm down a bit after nearly pulling off a lethal block off on Landslide Victory.

with Martin Bazley, David Bradbrook
alibyrnie 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Alistair Logan
Moritz L 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Stefan, rylett
Ben Watts 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

A great route, really nice!

with Louise Grimster
Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
brices 06/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Llinos
CRiddiford 06/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Chris
ClimbingLondoner ?/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead
pheotleyr 20/Jun/14 Solo O/S
gingerbex 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Sam Cox, Shona Mackie
leland stamper 17/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/14 2nd
Stanners 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S

very pleasant

Hidden 13/Jun/14 2nd
kiwi boy 08/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Nice lead sharron. Top of the route much cleaner than when climbed last. Less loose rock at the top of the block with the off width

with sharron, Dave B
martin one 31/May/14 2nd rpt
with Adam s, Dave Potter
mikedevcole 26/May/14 Lead O/S
matthew_dunn224 26/May/14 2nd O/S
davenev 13/May/14 -
with David
drgrange 13/May/14 Lead
with davenev
felixizzy 05/May/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead rpt
BallsOfSteel 03/May/14 Solo O/S

Awesome route for the grade. Safe and solid up til the last few blocks.

shaunleonard 03/May/14 2nd O/S
with Ian
Adrian Daniels 19/Apr/14 2nd
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
Caroline 2010 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Nick Hopper
martin one 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Stew
Hidden 17/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead
lukerathmell 15/Apr/14 2nd
Brian Moseley 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
davidclare 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Klara Marsikova
Klara 30/Mar/14 2nd
georgeevans88 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Alex P
catty_9 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Rebekah Hailes
Hidden 17/Mar/14 Lead O/S
howsthebeef 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd rpt
David Staples 15/Dec/13 Lead O/S
HairyBean 30/Nov/13 2nd rpt
with Natalie Burke
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Solo O/S
youbecame 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Easty14 29/Sep/13 Lead
Dave Thompson 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
SHONAJONES 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

3RD lead!

Tristypants 12/Sep/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/13 Lead
Adam Perrett 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Sarah lead most of it, I topped out.

with Sarah Perrett
kate tarrant ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Stuart William 28/Jul/13 Solo rpt
Steve Woollard 16/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 16/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Neil Gay 14/Jul/13 2nd rpt
swhite 14/Jul/13 Lead
with David Chadwick
Stew nutter 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Simple vd. Look out for loose rock

with Neil gay
Jen Mason 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Julia
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd
colinkeb 08/Jul/13 Lead
with john presley
johnnyhobo 08/Jul/13 2nd
with Colin Baker
johnl 07/Jul/13 Solo rpt
Felix Ottey 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Rubbish!!! Loose!!! Easy!!!!

mikeydee135 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Tarquin 29/Jun/13 -
with Louise
Louvet 29/Jun/13 -
with Tarquin
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
p3tersen 23/Jun/13 Lead
felixizzy 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nice climbing on the big crack, loose top but nothing to worry about

Dan0Me 19/Jun/13 Lead
with Sophie C
BruceW 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Becca
johnl 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S


with Andy Dunford
ADAMSTUBS ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

First Trad Lead

jopayne1988 26/May/13 2nd β
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead
Warner 25/May/13 2nd
cpoad 18/May/13 Lead rpt
with Clare F
Cheese Monkey 17/May/13 2nd O/S
with Mike
Mayaculpa 17/May/13 Lead

A crow or some such flapped out of the large crack, quite a surprise :-)

with Ben
Neil Gay 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Judith Emerson, Ryan Murphy
markhill371 03/May/13 2nd
with Ed Miu
Malpractise 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/13 2nd O/S
robbiek 17/Apr/13 Lead
with Caroline Web
Stuart William 15/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Matt Ivory
petegunn 08/Apr/13 2nd

A good climb, though some care needed with the leaning tower of Pisa blocks at the top!

with Davina
Hidden 08/Apr/13 Lead O/S
paulerussell 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Steve Grey
homing-penguin 10/Mar/13 2nd β
becoming-stranger 03/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Beth Mc
HairyBean 03/Mar/13 Lead rpt
with Natalie Burke
*girl 03/Mar/13 2nd O/S
homing-penguin 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with David
Hidden 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
BBEENN 20/Feb/13 Lead
riddle 05/Jan/13 2nd O/S


plilley 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Roger
riddle 01/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Danny H
beth_may ??/2013 Lead O/S
becoming-stranger ??/2013 2nd
with Beth Mc
Nix33 ??/2013 -
stoneback 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Dean
HairyBean 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
*girl 20/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead
MartinN 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Nice route, really easy until the corner starting three quarters of the way which makes it VD. Watch out for the loose block just above the corner.

lazzaw 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Chris's first trad experience. Belayed just below the chossy top

with Jonathan Cook
arandall 23/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Mark Davies PK 12/Aug/12 Solo
jamiemcdonald 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Michelle Taylor
paulerussell 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Poad
cpoad 09/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Paul R
paul1234 20/Jul/12 Lead
with Saffers
cpoad 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Mike S (Neil's friend)
Harri777 30/Jun/12 Lead
with Nik
Alor_lab 30/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Harri
Warner 20/Jun/12 Lead
Martyn Trev 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/12 2nd
Mr-Cowdrey 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Limpet 14/May/12 Lead

Not much more than a hard scramble to start and finish, nice bridging climb in the middle. Agree lots of loose boulders that could do some serious damage. Although climb description gives 35m height, it's a long way to the belay anchor trees when you get to the top. My 50m ropes weren't enough and my partner had to scramble up the first section to give me a bit extra.

Hidden 12/May/12 Solo
mullermn 12/May/12 2nd O/S

In approach shoes. Nice climb, though as per the rest of the quarry it is covered in piles of blocks ready to fall. Care required.

Kylie 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Nice route, quite easy.

lazzaw 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Jason Wilber, Jude
Hey Jude 15/Apr/12 TR O/S
with lazzaw
Warner 19/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden 19/Mar/12 Lead
Steve J T 10/Mar/12 2nd
ali macphee 08/Feb/12 Lead
J.Atkins 21/Jan/12 Lead O/S
cbonner 26/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
cbonner 09/Oct/11 Solo rpt
will909 11/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead
bpmclimb 22/Aug/11 Solo rpt


Pete Scott 13/Aug/11 Solo O/S

big loose rocks on the top but not too dangerous if you are careful.

with Jimbo
bradholmes 23/Jul/11 Lead rpt
cbonner 23/Jul/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead
Ollie Wickham 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Luke Moran
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
stpauliblade 29/Jun/11 Lead
stuntsbyjon 27/Jun/11 -
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S
cbonner 11/Jun/11 Lead
bradholmes 11/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
catemuir 04/Jun/11 2nd
Mark Davies PK 04/Jun/11 Solo O/S
kiwi boy 29/May/11 Lead O/S

Looks great from the bottom. Nice grooved arete. Loose rook all over the place. Care is needed in finding and placing gear unless you want a 100Kg block coming down on your belayer. Big blocks moving and falling. Split the 50 climb in two with greg taking the top 10m otherwise you cannot see your second (and actually not a bad stance)Not one for a repeat unless you have a death wish.

with Greg K
Hidden 24/May/11 2nd
Hidden 24/May/11 Lead
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead
carl_123 12/May/11 2nd rpt
lukerathmell 12/May/11 Lead O/S
with Carl Stubbs
carl_123 05/May/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 01/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Worth a star, despite the loose finish.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 01/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 29/Mar/11 Solo O/S
7ames 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
cas smerdon 22/Sep/10 2nd
with Nicola Yalland
Hidden 22/Sep/10 Lead
jenniferanncleaver 12/Aug/10 Lead
Sam..Oliver 11/Aug/10 Lead
stpauliblade 08/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/09 2nd O/S
olliegray96 20/Jul/09 2nd
with dad,reece & ryan
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead
Dave Marshall 30/May/09 2nd
with Richard Keast
cas smerdon 29/Apr/09 Lead
with mark joyce
cornish bird 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with gareth
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead
Samuel P 05/Apr/09 2nd
with Tommy
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Nobster ??/2009 Lead
with Laura Clarke
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Solo O/S
Sam Pictor 10/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Dad
sammy94 07/Jun/08 2nd
with dad,reece and charlotte
bazzag 07/Jun/08 Lead

Nice climb.Horrible at the top.

with reece, Charlotte,Sam,Ollie and Ryan
Hidden 27/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
Merlin 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Dan B 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Bev
ebunick 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S

easy peasey arrete, seconded by hazel and Lizzie

RichS-Bristol ??/2007 -

Quite a good little route, Solid, apart from the top fifteen feet.

Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Zoomer 29/Oct/06 Lead

Horrible tottering pile of shite!

Jules 210681 29/Oct/06 2nd
Hidden 06/Jul/06 Solo O/S
bob3141 26/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Jon Martin
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
endless winter ?/Aug/05 AltLd β
with BenP
Epic Ebdon 01/May/05 Lead O/S
with Nick Lambert
dpmUK 20/Mar/05 Lead dog
with Mike Dixon
James Moyle 10/Sep/04 2nd
Slater ??/2004 Lead
with Percy
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Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
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