15m. Start at the bottom of the right-rising crack. Go straight up on smears to the break. Keep going to a crack above and pull through the overlap. The tree is just above, from which abseil descent. Low in the grade, arguably E1.

I Butterworth, M Raine 27/Mar/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.


ClimberDateStyle
Stanners 22/May Lead rpt
petecallaghan 13/May Lead O/S
EllieWoods 13/May 2nd O/S
John Sheehan 10/May 2nd
with Kelvin
beardy mike 04/May Lead O/S
with Ian Savage
just one more 29/Apr Lead rpt
with Max B
BALD EAGLE 22/Apr TR
TomGudgeon 17/Apr Lead β
JoeCoxson 13/Apr Lead O/S

Nice moves but barely E1

Hidden 13/Apr 2nd O/S
AndyRogers 27/Mar 2nd O/S

A very good day.

with ianlaw
Hidden 27/Mar Lead rpt
powelli 26/Mar 2nd O/S

Good lead by Connor, proper slab climbing!

Connorolfe 26/Mar Lead O/S
acer2012 25/Mar TR O/S

Slabby smearing on small holds, nice. Should give it a go on lead next time!

with Jack Crozier, Eli Scruby
Wendy Watthews 18/Feb Lead rpt
with Abby
aiyer 18/Feb Lead
with Wendy
Jacknoblehawkins ??/2017 -
Hidden 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/16 TR
RyanH 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Can't believe Iv just done this, not even climbed hvs yet,but a very enjoyable climb!!

Hidden 21/Oct/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Oct/16 Lead
Mayaculpa 13/Oct/16 TR
rickstaylor 13/Oct/16 TR rpt
jcking231 08/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Louis Raettig
Bob M 05/Oct/16 TR
with Nick Foot, Scott Titt
Hidden 05/Oct/16 TR
Hidden 26/Aug/16 Lead RP
OllieF 22/Aug/16 Lead rpt

We undertook an experiment, if you fall, land flat on your belly and you slowly slide back down, very slowly. E2, not sure on that one.

with Martin
nikki_a_swan 07/Aug/16 2nd
with NaCl
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/16 2nd
konna 27/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Tom courtiour 22/Jul/16 Lead O/S
patrickcd 20/Jul/16 Lead
with Niels
Neil Gay 19/Jul/16 TR rpt
Hidden 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Bob Peters 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

First E grade of the year. Bit of creative gear keeps it feeling spicy. Over much too soon.

with George Rowland, Joe
Hidden 18/Jun/16 TR
Fatclimber 18/Jun/16 TR
with Niels
George.Rowland 18/Jun/16 2nd
with Bob Peters, Joe
dave_is 22/May/16 Lead RP
Hidden 22/May/16 Lead RP
arandall 16/May/16 TR rpt
Mayaculpa 14/May/16 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Aidanrobinson1995 07/May/16 TR O/S
with lilli
Aidanrobinson1995 07/May/16 Lead rpt
with lilli
CasualLime 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Beautiful

ah2013 17/Apr/16 TR
Gibbo 17/Apr/16 TR
with James Thompson, Ed Wright
amester 17/Apr/16 TR β

Jacob and James Lead, top roped and enjoyable but difficult last climb of the day but found it easier than Travel bug

Sharon205 17/Apr/16 TR
crater 17/Apr/16 TR
with steve
Steve Woollard 17/Apr/16 TR
with Donald
jcking231 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

First E2, really enjoyable

degibbs 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
mattx1123 17/Apr/16 TR O/S

ollie led, steve & i top roped. sketchy gear...

with steve bumc, ollie gibson
elewis96 30/Mar/16 Lead G/U
Sam O'Rourke 30/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hugobristol 25/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Much better gear than youd expect. Mid E1, which probably makes it a solid fairy cave E2.

with Tom C
Mike Roger ??/2016 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead
steve_gibbs 04/Oct/15 Lead rpt
George Frisby 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
g.chalker 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Vnockles 26/Jul/15 Lead

Fell trying to sort out a rubbish micro wire placement, at the top, past the overlap. Amazingly it held... Better off not bothering with gear at this point as the climbing is easy.

with Alex Smith
cpoad 25/Jul/15 TR O/S
with Clare F
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
dansimkin 04/Jul/15 TR O/S
Laurence20 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Ruaraidh Fairbairn
Mayaculpa 27/Jun/15 2nd
with Michael H
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
stalbot 25/Jun/15 Lead O/S

More climbable than it looks

Keelan McNulty 25/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 23/Jun/15 TR
with Donald
OllieF 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Smeary padding fun! Bit of a run out up top to keep the blood flowing!

with Chris Rees
crater 23/Jun/15 TR O/S
with steve
Felix Ottey 21/Jun/15 Lead
Fatclimber 14/Jun/15 TR
Deako 14/Jun/15 TR
Jessicacrump 06/Jun/15 2nd
betathief 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
carl_123 04/Jun/15 TR rpt
catty_9 03/Jun/15 TR O/S
with Sam Joseph, Henry Todd
ape1980 28/May/15 TR O/S
with Craigzilla
Legs 28/May/15 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Hidden 28/May/15 2nd
steve_gibbs 21/May/15 Lead rpt
with Max Coney
Legs 21/May/15 2nd O/S

More gear than we expected and over all too soon. Might try the lead on the next visit though!

with Steve
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead
Hidden 11/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/May/15 2nd rpt
Mayaculpa 01/May/15 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Hidden 15/Apr/15 TR O/S
Paul Baller 10/Apr/15 Lead RP
climbEdclimb 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S

E2? More of an E1 (soft) I feel, seemed like there were plenty of placements (although they were average)

with Cameron Ree
David Staples 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Dec/14 2nd
JamesRich 01/Nov/14 Lead β
with Lewis
Hidden 01/Nov/14 TR β
Matt Smith 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S

E1 5b if you have small gear/offsets. Got 6 bits of gear in and could have got more if I'd taken more quickdraws.

Hidden 27/Oct/14 TR O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/14 TR O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 11/Sep/14 2nd

Sam's first E2 lead and with style

Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Amy Devereux
Hidden 23/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead
zcsharp 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 2nd O/S
RobScarisbrick 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with cdpuk
cdpuk 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

First E2. Smeartastic.

hoggy90 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mph040272 28/Jul/14 TR O/S
with Nick Cunild
mph040272 26/Jul/14 TR O/S
with Tamsin Ross Browne
lem 13/Jul/14 TR O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
brices 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Llinos
TimCul 29/Jun/14 2nd
will_benfold 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
nath_casper 22/Jun/14 Lead RP

placed the gear on top rope then lead clean.

Tom Harper 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S

very slippy for feet and very poor gear for the top half of the route. felt very bold climbing all the way

pymn nice but dim 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S

First E2

felixizzy 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lots of opportunities for gear but not convinced by much of it.

with Craig
MontyH 05/Jun/14 TR O/S
with Brian
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

First e2, but let's face it, this is soft e1 at most.

wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Ric
Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 27/May/14 2nd
Hidden 26/May/14 TR rpt
Alessandro Tentori 17/May/14 TR O/S
with Kirsten Donovan
kirsten 17/May/14 TR
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
BallsOfSteel 19/Apr/14 Lead β
Tom K 19/Apr/14 TR
with Andy B.
Adrian Daniels 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
Easty14 16/Apr/14 TR
RichyBOYY 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Larkins
BicycleBradley 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

First E2

with Rich
J.Atkins 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
afrosam 29/Mar/14 TR O/S
joeurwin 29/Mar/14 TR O/S

3 times clean. Really no excuse not to lead it now!

with Sam Robinson
morgan thomas ??/2014 -
Hidden 12/Oct/13 2nd
Dan0Me 09/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Sophie C
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Pete Randall 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Seb, Pete Neden
Gabe Oliver 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Gear could warrant E1 but all a little dubious

Matt Amos 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Neil Gay 24/Aug/13 TR rpt
with Emily Gay, Al Gay
katemurphy_@hotmail 11/Aug/13 2nd
stoneback 09/Aug/13 TR O/S
with Alan
MoWalker3 07/Aug/13 -

only added the clean onsight bit to update the hardest route thingy. the 'blank' is always clean onsight.

with Cormac
The Ivanator 26/Jul/13 Lead RP

Seconded previously, toproped it very smoothly today, so went for the lead. On lead not so smooth, but made it, one nasty foot slide controlled by death grip crimping. My first E2 lead, but in reality this is surely E1 if you have a set of micros.

with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 26/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Ivan
BenBird 23/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Neil Gay 23/Jul/13 Lead
Dawlish 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Nice climbing on solid rock

with Sasa, Tanya, June
Paul_southgate68 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
hutchay 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Great route, just got to focus on the moves rather than the lack of gear until you reach the break.

with Fliss, Libby Owen
jon_ridley 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
shim ?/Jun/13 2nd
Marti999 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
rustyfishhook 25/May/13 TR dog

one fall good route

minstrel nips,sean 25/May/13 2nd O/S
johnl 25/May/13 TR β

Top roped this to see if its crux was the same as the one I used on Talk to the Hand, It was!

with Adam Perrett
Trippinjester 25/May/13 TR O/S
Adam Perrett 25/May/13 TR O/S
wurzelinzummerset 23/May/13 TR O/S

A good climb. It would be nice to lead this... if there was a wire slot below the first break!

with Carl
carl_123 22/May/13 2nd O/S
gjh 06/May/13 Lead RP

Climbed after a single top-rope practice

markhill371 03/May/13 TR
with Rem Fowler
Maxim2023 ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
Hidden 23/Apr/13 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
kirsten 21/Apr/13 2nd
with Brian
Hidden 15/Apr/13 TR
rachchanter 07/Apr/13 TR O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Ian JL 06/Oct/12 TR
cbonner 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Rope solo.

Hidden 09/Sep/12 TR
Felix Ottey 09/Sep/12 TR
arandall 26/Aug/12 Lead RP

Top roped it last week, then lead it after remus on his gear

Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Lizzie Randall 23/Aug/12 TR
with Wendy, Alex
Hidden 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
arandall 23/Aug/12 TR O/S
with Liz, Wendy Matthews
Wendy Watthews 23/Aug/12 TR O/S
with Liz, arandall
Didymus 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Found it tricky in damp conditions

with Nick
adam 24 02/Jun/12 2nd β
riddle 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 28/May/12 2nd O/S

Slab was pretty steady although wouldn't have fancied the lead on small spaced gear. Move over overlap felt like the crux.

with Jez
jezb1 28/May/12 Lead

Really good little route. Delicate climbing with enough gear.

Hidden 27/May/12 Lead rpt
BALD EAGLE 12/May/12 2nd
with Will Wykes, Rob Horler
Hidden 02/May/12 TR rpt
climbingchica 24/Oct/11 TR
Rob Hirst 24/Oct/11 TR O/S
Gary S 08/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Mr-Cowdrey 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Gary Slade
robertcunningham86 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/11 2nd
Mark Davies PK 20/Jun/11 TR O/S

nice - worth a star

with Jack and Rob
Stanners 19/Jun/11 TR O/S

great route....trust your feet

Hidden 22/May/11 TR
nick hawkins 22/May/11 Lead RP
with steve
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
blum 10/Apr/11 TR β
with Tom Starks
Hidden 05/Mar/11 TR
Huntlyfiddler 31/Oct/10 TR
Hidden 31/Oct/10 TR rpt
davenev 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Awesome route - bit blank in sections but good gear in the middle

with luke
Mr Tickle 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with davenev
ian1234567 15/Oct/10 Solo O/S

e2 onsighted solo.

ian1234567 10/Oct/10 Solo
James Moyle 01/Sep/10 Lead

I had absolutely no recollection of doing this route before until I saw it in my logbook!

Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall 14/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Luke
DorsetGareth 30/May/09 2nd O/S

Quite soft for the grade, stripped plenty of gear.

with Richard Nadin
petegunn 28/May/09 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 28/May/09 2nd O/S
Mark Salter 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Samuel P 05/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 05/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 05/Apr/09 TR O/S
MarkRyder 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with James P
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Sam Pictor 30/May/08 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this climb, clean onsight and with planty of protection.... well enough to prevent any potential groundfalls. All i can say is that it beats revising!!

with Dad
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/07 2nd
dcomeau 30/Aug/07 Solo O/S
kevinknights 25/Aug/07 2nd O/S

thin

guy xavier percival 22/Aug/07 Solo β
with none
Hidden 13/Aug/07 TR
maybe_si 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with jamie
freelancer_85 30/Jul/07 Lead rpt
with Raphael
Hidden 30/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/07 TR O/S
cas smerdon 18/Jun/07 TR
Matt Tranter 26/May/07 -
freelancer_85 06/May/07 Lead rpt
with Tom
thomasadixon 06/May/07 2nd O/S
freelancer_85 18/Apr/07 Lead β

My first E2!! Abseiled down over it from the tree after climbing Backing Up, and slid down the first 6 feet because I stupidly stopped moving, which on smears is never the best idea.

with Megan
climber_meg 18/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Josh
ebunick 18/Feb/07 2nd dog

damn foot slippage!! must buy new shoes.... must buy new shoes....

with Jim
jimjimmyjimjim 18/Feb/07 Lead β
Rebecca Buckenham 18/Feb/07 TR O/S
with Jim
Oddjob 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
JimR ??/2007 2nd
with AJM
John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
Silum ??/2007 Lead

so slabby you can practically walk up it, or run. The gear is thin but there, easy route, soft for E2 but a lot of fun

Hidden 03/Nov/06 Lead O/S
upontop ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris
JamieAyres 19/Mar/06 TR O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
chris sm ??/2006 Lead O/S
endless winter ?/Aug/05 Lead β
with BenP
goi.ashmore 08/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Alice Howe
KRB 16/Apr/05 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead RP
James Moyle 10/Sep/04 TR
Hidden 19/Jun/04 -
just one more 19/Jun/04 Lead
with Max B, Svenn G
tom.e ??/2004 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
with Edouard Vincent
16 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 49
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set