35m. The obvious rising crack which crosses the left-hand slab of the Glacis from left to right. Once a few metres past the buddlia, go more directly up to a lower-off (extended down from the large tree at the quarry rim).

J Stanbury, R A Broomhead 01/Jun/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20, South West Climbs for a Northerner.

SPatrick 02/Sep 2nd O/S
with Joe
Hidden 02/Sep Lead O/S
NigelHurst 28/Aug 2nd O/S

One tricky section in middle, trust your feet and reach for those thin handholds, they are there. Top out muddy but has solid rocks embedded to take feet. Ab/belay bolt at top

with Nick S
dbm 28/Aug 2nd
with Steve Hind
Sam116 28/Aug Lead O/S
Sam116 28/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug Lead O/S
leland stamper 26/Aug Lead rpt

Still think it's thin but would benefit from a clean

with Joe baynes, richard baynes
phil456 20/Jul 2nd rpt
with Graham M
RWB1986 16/Jul Lead O/S
ssutton 15/Jul Lead
martin one 15/Jul 2nd O/S
with ssutton
DanJennings 14/Jul Lead O/S


with Tom
TGHB 14/Jul 2nd dog
JoeCoxson 08/Jul Solo O/S
littlematt 01/Jul Lead dog

First Trad lead fall/slide ;)

Legs 15/Jun Lead O/S
oli87 15/Jun Lead O/S
raidiun 14/Jun 2nd O/S
with Riccy
markfromstoke 13/Jun -
with Adrian, Steve N
cdpuk 03/Jun 2nd rpt
Pete Randall 03/Jun 2nd
with Doug, Chris P
Dugster 03/Jun Lead
with Pete randal, Chris
justinboynton 25/May 2nd O/S
with Andy
AndySL 25/May Lead O/S
with Justin
BurnerOfBiggerThings 09/May 2nd
67hours 09/May Lead O/S
with Steve AMC
Hidden 29/Apr Lead O/S
fharnish13 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Zoe!
Paul MacEnri 20031034 17/Apr Lead
stoneback 16/Apr 2nd rpt
with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 16/Apr Lead rpt
with Nick
Felix Ottey 02/Apr Lead O/S
JGriffiths 22/Jan 2nd dog

Very cold and very wet and slimy. Not a good idea to try this today. Was crawling on my knees up the slab at one point

AshBarnes 22/Jan Lead dnf

Made it most the way with two slips (which I held). Then climbed straight up instead of carrying on right!

with Jake
Alex Wieczorek 04/Sep/16 2nd O/S
avonclimber 04/Sep/16 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/16 2nd O/S
cpoad 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Crack was clogged with mud

with John S
Hidden 21/Jun/16 2nd
George.Rowland 18/Jun/16 2nd
with Joe, Bob Peters
Bob Peters 18/Jun/16 Lead
Felix Ottey 05/Jun/16 Lead rpt
label 05/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Jimkato ?/Jun/16 Lead
with Matt Walker
Jimkato ?/Jun/16 -
leland stamper 27/May/16 2nd O/S

Gets thin enough to put me off the solo

with BU6330
Claireybloomers 23/May/16 2nd
with Andy
andy dunn 23/May/16 Lead O/S
with Claire
Steve Woollard 16/May/16 2nd
with Donald
crater 16/May/16 Lead rpt
with steve
katiep 14/May/16 Lead O/S

Good wandering

with Peter H
Stanners 04/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/16 2nd
davidclare 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Matt Freeman
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead
mattx1123 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

nice traverse, fun slabby crack. got it in early so didn't cut others up.

with mike fairy, David Clare
Hidden 08/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 08/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Julian Prieto 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Norman_P_W 03/Apr/16 Lead
Tom courtiour 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/16 TR
sadlerbrett 02/Apr/16 2nd
with Richard Taylor, Mike Unwin
Hidden ?/Apr/16 Lead
Paul Baller ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
pimpy 25/Oct/15 Lead
10029759 25/Oct/15 2nd
LovelyMrTom 25/Oct/15 2nd
hairy51 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
phil456 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Marktrin 18/Oct/15 2nd dog
with phil456
Robin Woodward 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Seems like HS, one move wonder if you can't find the low foot mid way. Did some cleaning of most of the horizontal cracks, but had to leave the last grassed up vertical section as there was a guy leading up behind.

Hidden 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Neil Rigiani 18/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with James Hill-Reid, Dave Coley
Jenny Dart 18/Oct/15 2nd
with Robin
miriamclaire 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Tom Downes 12/Aug/15 2nd rpt
Matt Smith 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
jsmcfarland 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S

How is this a VS? unless I was off-route (pretty sure I wasn't) you can pretty much walk up this!

Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead
lakeyross 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S

i think we set a new route! there is a smaller crack line above this line which we climbed. probably still a VS but maybe 4C. i'm naming this route, "Ross's mistake"!

Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 02/Jul/15 2nd
with Rob
lukerathmell 30/Jun/15 2nd
with George
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Trace 14/Jun/15 Lead β
Monkey_Alan 14/Jun/15 2nd
sasheep 25/May/15 Lead

Finally did it. Cams were so useful. The middle was still scary

with Sam Daly
Steve Woollard 17/May/15 Lead
with Donald
crater 17/May/15 2nd O/S
with steve
maresia 13/May/15 Lead rpt
cdpuk 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd
Hidden 09/May/15 Lead
Fatclimber 04/May/15 2nd O/S
Deako 04/May/15 Lead
Ollie Wickham 30/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Richard Mackie
Hidden 15/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/15 Lead
davidclare 07/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Tris Vye
markfromstoke 04/Apr/15 Lead
with Duncan
Hidden 05/Feb/15 Lead
davidclare ?/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Tom Downes 12/Oct/14 Lead dog
with callans
callans 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Thin crux not made easier by muddy shoes. Needs a gardener! Lovely route otherwise.

Rob Morgan 05/Oct/14 2nd
Steve Bartle 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Echna 28/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Dalinda, Rich
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Ian JL 07/Sep/14 Solo O/S
swhite 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with David Chadwick
zcsharp 17/Aug/14 2nd
steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
catty_9 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Angrypenguin 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Cat
Steve Woollard 14/Aug/14 Lead
with Bob Dawson
ian d f 07/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Steve Needs
georgeevans88 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Caitlin
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
spenser 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Abs 09/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Bit thin in the middle! Nice VS but we wished it had gone on longer

Samuel Cox 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Abi
Tom Harper 01/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Nice climb but starting to get polished

Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
TimCul 29/Jun/14 Lead
will_benfold 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Pintsize 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
91dave 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 24/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
thomb 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
felixizzy 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Craig
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
shaunleonard 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S

First VS. Challenging and fun.

with Ian
brian watson 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
MontyH 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Brian
winter hill1 02/Jun/14 Lead
mutly 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Paul G
Bob Peters ?/Jun/14 -
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
Steve Bartle 31/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/May/14 2nd rpt
kiwi boy 04/May/14 2nd O/S

Great climb along crack line. Good gear. Excellent ab points

with David Smith
drgrange 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with davenev
davenev 29/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with David
wurzelinzummerset 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Nick
stoneback 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Alan
gjh 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 12/Apr/14 Lead
with Kevin Van Colina
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/14 2nd rpt
shim ?/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 19/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 19/Mar/14 2nd
Tristypants 01/Oct/13 2nd
with Helen Eden
zadurrani 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S
riddle 15/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/13 Lead
Dave Thompson 05/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Mark Lee
Swsloper ?/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Deary65 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Covers most of The Glacis wall. Great to keep it for yourself.

matthewpwilson 26/Aug/13 2nd
with Ed W, Laura
laura wilson 26/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Gave up halfway across having lead the first bit

Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/13 2nd
with John Parrott
Hidden 07/Aug/13 Lead rpt
petegunn 07/Aug/13 2nd
with Davina
Hidden 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Echna 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Rich
MoWalker3 24/Jul/13 -
with Cormac
jon bradley 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Huw Howells
MartinN 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
wurzelinzummerset 15/Jul/13 2nd
with Ben
Cheese Monkey 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Alan
mick1jones 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mike Guttridge
Felix Ottey 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Marvellous with entertaining move in Middle...

Swsloper 30/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
chrisallan 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
mikeydee135 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
Swsloper 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
norris.dan 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S
fishinwater 18/Jun/13 Lead
with Rob H
Jcomber 12/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Poco Loco 05/Jun/13 2nd O/S

An obvious line trending up the slab. Steady going apart from one move which would be more difficult for the short of reach.

BALD EAGLE 05/Jun/13 Lead
with James Pomeroy
toriwest ?/Jun/13 2nd dog

Start was nice but got to the middle and struggled

wurzelinzummerset 01/May/13 Lead rpt
with Carl
carl_123 01/May/13 2nd rpt
Brian Moseley 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Pete Rigby 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 27/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 -
Nix33 ??/2013 -
kirsten 15/Sep/12 Lead

Very enjoyable, one tricky move. Think I finished up Caveman rather than through the jungle.

with Mick
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
gilmourheid 09/Sep/12 2nd
with Steve27
lazzaw 06/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Gareth Chalker
stingray_tara 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
riddle 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Tara
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
iantoday 11/Aug/12 2nd β
J.Atkins 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S
upontop 20/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Beth
Marti999 31/May/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 24/May/12 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 23/May/12 Lead
with Brian
bpmclimb 23/May/12 2nd rpt
with Alan
ben.richards 12/May/12 Lead dog

Foot popped of the thin moves a third into the route which was bloody frustrating! I blame my worn out shoes! Took a nice swing onto a bomber tri-cam in a little pocket, pulled back up to the gear and with a little extra care finished the route.

with Tom Foote, Luca Celano
LJC 12/May/12 2nd
with Tom, ben.richards
bpmclimb 02/May/12 Lead rpt

With gear in situ.

with Mick
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead
nick hawkins 07/Apr/12 -
lazzaw 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Jason Wilber
wurzelinzummerset 28/Mar/12 Lead
with Andy
Kayan 28/Mar/12 2nd O/S
onlyfoddington 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with James H
luke13 24/Mar/12 Lead
with Paul
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt
McKEuan 06/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Tadms
Didymus 04/Sep/11 Solo O/S
jamespilgrim 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Last section was a bit overgrown, finished up caveman

with Mark
BenRyle 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Great route, a bit of foliage towards the end though.

CharlotteMilner 29/Jul/11 2nd O/S
sofe13 21/Jul/11 2nd

Lovely climb, tricky middle section, especially with a stuck chock!

with Lisa
Warner 04/Jul/11 Lead
carl_123 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Clay C 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Hidden 02/Jun/11 2nd
Ruth ND 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Clay
mikeydee135 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mai Wong, David Fisher
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Bobling 21/May/11 Lead

Very good fun, mostly straight forward with one testing move. HS?

with Rob H, Dave L
BALD EAGLE 21/May/11 2nd
with Rob Duerr, R.Horler
timstyles 04/May/11 Lead O/S
with Mayur Patel
Bob M 26/Apr/11 Lead
darren hudson 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

bit dirty

with David Ford
joeurwin 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Neil Gay
Neil Gay 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 20/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Helen S
nick hawkins 11/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Jez
jezb1 11/Mar/11 2nd

Good middle section

Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
gilbert 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

the odd tricky spot but a nice traverse line across the slab

with Gary Hayes RAFMA
Matt Smyth 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

VS- 4b 35m LP Not too taxing, slopey, traverse. Avon and Cheddar

davenev 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with luke
Mr Tickle 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with davenev
Hidden 19/Sep/10 Lead
The Ivanator 19/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Rich
steveprice.exmouth 16/Sep/10 2nd
Steve Woollard 16/Sep/10 Lead
cas smerdon 01/Sep/10 2nd
with mark joyce
bpmclimb 09/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 09/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 16/Aug/09 2nd
Tom_Harding 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Would be a realy good with a good clean.

with Gordy
tobydunford 27/Jun/09 Solo O/S
deklan 10/May/09 2nd
with dad
gringoloco 13/Apr/09 AltLd
with colin milton
colin milton 13/Apr/09 Lead
with chris dew
vertigo 19/Oct/08 2nd β
MarkRyder 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 24/Aug/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd
upontop 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Chris
trevor macalonan 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Sebo
bazzag 28/Jun/08 Lead
with reece, sam and ryan
bpmclimb 23/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 23/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 22/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 22/Jun/08 Lead β
chockstone ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Foster
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
petegunn ??/2008 Lead
upontop ??/2008 -
kristofferalpsjo ?/Oct/07 2nd
with Toby Kluth
maresia 27/Sep/07 Lead O/S

One thin move that seems a lot tougher than 4b

Hidden 16/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
guy xavier percival 17/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
Matt Tranter 11/Aug/07 Lead
Ybot Htulk ?/Aug/07 Lead
with Steve
Hidden 09/Jul/07 Lead rpt
cas smerdon 09/Jul/07 2nd

and Dave Brewer

Hidden 25/Jun/07 Lead rpt
Matt Tranter 17/Jun/07 Lead
with Zelda Greyling
freelancer_85 29/May/07 2nd O/S
with Toby and Megan
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 18/Sep/06 2nd rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 18/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/06 Solo O/S
dpmUK 14/Jun/06 Lead
with Britta
Hidden 09/Jun/06 Lead O/S
just one more 09/Jun/06 Lead
with rich h, Max B
Hidden 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/May/06 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 24/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 24/Apr/06 2nd
Paul Robertson 08/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Paddy Wilson
Hidden 04/Jan/06 2nd O/S
petegunn 04/Jan/06 Lead
with Davina
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Philippe Azzi
Mark Salter 10/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Shorrock
Jen79 ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Matt Litchfield
JamieAyres 29/May/05 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Graves
Hidden ?/Mar/05 2nd
Hidden 26/Feb/05 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 08/Sep/04 Lead
spence 25/Aug/04 Lead

good balancey route for feet

with Tim Hudson
Hidden 29/Jul/04 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/04 2nd
greedo 07/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Juliet.
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
timstyles ??/2004 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead RP
Bob M 16/Apr/03 Lead
with Richard Mott
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 44
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set