14m. Start under the obvious tree belay at a small overhanging block. Climb up, slightly right, and then back left to the tree.

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 24/Apr/2002

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20, Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

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UserDateNotes
Ashley King 24 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Best gear is out to the left at about half height.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best gear is out to the left at about half height.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
barbora 8 Sep Lead dnf i think i ventured too far right and it did not really work out. decided to back off but maybe i should have just been bolder?
i think i ventured too far right and it did not really work out. decided to back off but maybe i should have just been bolder?
TommyK 24 Jul 2nd
Mbowell 14 Jul Lead O/S
Kemics 23 Jun Lead O/S Had a mental wobble as I wasn't super convinced about the single brassy stopping me from breaking my ankles. Was very relieved to find the bomber gear higher. Also had to use a few handfuls of brambles to get to the tree.
Had a mental wobble as I wasn't super convinced about the single brassy stopping me from breaking my ankles. Was very relieved to find the bomber gear higher. Also had to use a few handfuls of brambles to get to the tree.
wilkinscl 23 Jun 2nd
with Kemics
with Kemics
ssutton 1 Jun Lead O/S Haven't done many E grades, but this seemed particularly bold and poorly protected. Had a couple of goes at the wrong start heading right...
with Martyn
Haven't done many E grades, but this seemed particularly bold and poorly protected. Had a couple of goes at the wrong start heading right...
with Martyn
Gavdee1 30 May Lead O/S
with Tony Saxophoney
with Tony Saxophoney
rosso 22 May Lead O/S
nathanjmasters 22 May 2nd
with rosso
with rosso
Benjaminblanc 15 May Lead O/S
with Polly Checkley, Joe Andrews
with Polly Checkley, Joe Andrews
Joe Andrews 15 May 2nd
Joe Andrews 15 May Lead
GeorgT 12 May Lead O/S engaging at every move. Not one you'd want to get on with a nervy head.
with Colum
engaging at every move. Not one you'd want to get on with a nervy head.
with Colum
Adrian Daniels 4 May 2nd rpt
Steve Webster 4 May Lead rpt Fudged the finish last time, steady this time
Fudged the finish last time, steady this time
Hidden 23 Apr Lead
Ashley King 23 Apr Lead O/S Very little in the way of gear or footholds so feels a little desperate at points. But not a wholly unenjoyable climb, there are much better ones at the crag though.
Very little in the way of gear or footholds so feels a little desperate at points. But not a wholly unenjoyable climb, there are much better ones at the crag though.
Sam O'Rourke 19 Apr Lead O/S
with Florence Wallace
with Florence Wallace
MarkH55 14 Apr Lead Didn't move left at the top, too green and manky
Didn't move left at the top, too green and manky
kissmate89 14 Apr 2nd
with MarkH55
with MarkH55
Hidden 31 Mar 2nd
Climbthatpitch 31 Mar Lead O/S
with RWB1986
with RWB1986
RWB1986 31 Mar 2nd rpt
Hidden 9 Sep, 2018 2nd
JP Williams 9 Sep, 2018 Lead G/U
Steve Neads 15 Aug, 2018 TR
markfromstoke 15 Aug, 2018 TR
with Adrian, Steve Neads
with Adrian, Steve Neads
SuePearson 21 Jul, 2018 TR
with darling Dave
with darling Dave
Legs 14 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Short route but nice moves. Nothing felt too hard. Worse bit was the moss at the top by the block!
Short route but nice moves. Nothing felt too hard. Worse bit was the moss at the top by the block!
RWB1986 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
RyanH 25 Mar, 2018 Lead β
Hidden 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Dave Garnett 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Pete Foster
with Pete Foster
Ben_Gilbert96 1 Aug, 2017 2nd tried to lead it but didnt trust my gear well enough to commit to the moves
with Kayan
tried to lead it but didnt trust my gear well enough to commit to the moves
with Kayan
Kayan 1 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt
Hidden 18 Jul, 2017 Lead G/U
Hidden 18 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
acer2012 28 May, 2017 Lead O/S 3rd E lead and absolutely bricked it from half way! Did use a nut off to the right to avoid groundfall for most of the route, but assuming that's within the grade. Some OK holds but the feet weren't great and gear V. sparse (or I'm just blind!). Still enjoyable though.
with degibbs
3rd E lead and absolutely bricked it from half way! Did use a nut off to the right to avoid groundfall for most of the route, but assuming that's within the grade. Some OK holds but the feet weren't great and gear V. sparse (or I'm just blind!). Still enjoyable though.
with degibbs
John Sheehan 10 May, 2017 2nd
with Kelvin
with Kelvin
BurnerOfBiggerThings 9 May, 2017 2nd
67hours 9 May, 2017 Lead O/S Could do with a bit of a brush.
with Steve AMC
Could do with a bit of a brush.
with Steve AMC
fharnish13 23 Apr, 2017 2nd dog
afterthesend 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
emmafizzle 23 Apr, 2017 2nd β
Bob Peters 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 10 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Took a line to the right joining this route higher up, felt harder. Did the original start after.
Took a line to the right joining this route higher up, felt harder. Did the original start after.
ian d f 25 Mar, 2017 2nd rpt
onlyfoddington 25 Mar, 2017 Lead G/U Slipped off whilst trying to fiddle in a second nut, a bit surprised the micro wire held, but glad it did. Didn't really want to lower off it, so down climbed and started over.
with ian d f
Slipped off whilst trying to fiddle in a second nut, a bit surprised the micro wire held, but glad it did. Didn't really want to lower off it, so down climbed and started over.
with ian d f
myrddinmuse 25 Mar, 2017 2nd RP Really fun. Went the wrong way then slipped on first go, but did fine with a bit of handy advice off Steve. Not sure if my footwork is quite good enough for this on lead yet.
Really fun. Went the wrong way then slipped on first go, but did fine with a bit of handy advice off Steve. Not sure if my footwork is quite good enough for this on lead yet.
steve-grigg 25 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt Micros would have been nice
Micros would have been nice
Cheese Monkey 23 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Thought the shorter of the pair of E1s here would be easier. Wrong. Nice climbing mind
Thought the shorter of the pair of E1s here would be easier. Wrong. Nice climbing mind
beardy mike ??, 2017 -
RJLeish 8 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
Stanners 8 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with RJLeish
with RJLeish
Robrossmills 14 Aug, 2016 Lead G/U Two foot slips led to two falls, got it clean in the end though
Two foot slips led to two falls, got it clean in the end though
samparsons 6 Aug, 2016 Lead β
pymn nice but dim 6 Aug, 2016 Lead
Hidden 13 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
laurence_falconer 24 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 May, 2016 Lead
hands solo 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward ?May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2016 2nd
Larey 18 Apr, 2016 Lead β
Mayaculpa 17 Apr, 2016 TR
with Kate
with Kate
Swsloper 3 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
hutchay 2 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt
miriamclaire 2 Apr, 2016 2nd
with hutchay
with hutchay
Dan0Me 22 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
with James Smith, Mel
with James Smith, Mel
James Smith 22 Mar, 2016 2nd
with dan, Melonfly
with dan, Melonfly
Hidden 25 Feb, 2016 Lead G/U
Phil Anderson ??, 2016 2nd
Mike Roger ??, 2016 Lead
Mayaculpa 17 Oct, 2015 TR
with Andrew V, Jennie
with Andrew V, Jennie
Mayaculpa 15 Oct, 2015 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
with Mike Rotraxion
steve_gibbs 4 Oct, 2015 Lead rpt
George Frisby 4 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
Chris Sieradzki 20 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
with Hooo
with Hooo
Hooo 20 Sep, 2015 Lead dog Bold and delicate. Finally got a decent no.3 micro in, then my foot slipped off a damp polished hold and I slumped onto it. Went off route in the middle to place a tricam, making it harder than it needed to be, without actually making it any less run out. Top section is exciting, but felt fine 'cos I wasn't going to deck if I fluffed it (unlike the start).
Bold and delicate. Finally got a decent no.3 micro in, then my foot slipped off a damp polished hold and I slumped onto it. Went off route in the middle to place a tricam, making it harder than it needed to be, without actually making it any less run out. Top section is exciting, but felt fine 'cos I wasn't going to deck if I fluffed it (unlike the start).
jsmcfarland 9 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S Great lead by Olly, especially considering he hasn't been climbing much! Pretty hard moves and not all that well protected, especially if you miss crucial placements! (Olly!)
Great lead by Olly, especially considering he hasn't been climbing much! Pretty hard moves and not all that well protected, especially if you miss crucial placements! (Olly!)
Hidden 9 Aug, 2015 Lead
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 2nd
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 2nd
will_benfold 11 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt
Adam Perrett 4 Jul, 2015 TR O/S
with Trippinjester, Sarah Perrett, johnl
with Trippinjester, Sarah Perrett, johnl
johnl 4 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Simon Fowler, Adam Perrett
with Simon Fowler, Adam Perrett
Paul Baller 4 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
with matt stevens
Trippinjester 4 Jul, 2015 TR O/S
Keelan McNulty 24 Jun, 2015 2nd dog
stalbot 24 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 9 Jun, 2015 2nd rpt
miriamclaire 25 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with hutchay
with hutchay
hutchay 25 May, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 10 May, 2015 Lead O/S
cdpuk 10 May, 2015 2nd O/S Good lead from Hammond. Bold if you stay properly on route.
Good lead from Hammond. Bold if you stay properly on route.
Hidden 10 May, 2015 2nd dog
Ian JL 12 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Oct, 2014 Lead
zcsharp 28 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with John Harris, steve_gibbs
with John Harris, steve_gibbs
steve_gibbs 27 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with John Harris, zcsharp
with John Harris, zcsharp
Echna 27 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Dalinda, mnyk
with Dalinda, mnyk
Hidden 27 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt
Hidden 17 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
David Maddison 6 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
steve-grigg 6 Sep, 2014 2nd
Hidden 22 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 14 Aug, 2014 TR
Rob Morgan 27 Jul, 2014 2nd
MoWalker3 23 Jul, 2014 -
with Cormac
with Cormac
Hidden 13 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 29 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt Done properly this time (no escaping onto the VDiff for a rest).
Done properly this time (no escaping onto the VDiff for a rest).
trwolfe13 29 Jun, 2014 2nd dog Slipped twice at the start, because of shoddy footwork. Rest of it was clean.
Slipped twice at the start, because of shoddy footwork. Rest of it was clean.
thomb 23 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 20 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Quite bold until you get the first good nut in at about 5-7 meters height.
with Jana
Quite bold until you get the first good nut in at about 5-7 meters height.
with Jana
bonelessivar 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 1 Jun, 2014 2nd
Steve Bartle 31 May, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
nicknicely 19 May, 2014 2nd
bpmclimb 19 May, 2014 Lead rpt
felixizzy 18 May, 2014 Lead O/S Proper elvis leg trying to place first bit of gear. Scary but a lot of fun.
with Sean
Proper elvis leg trying to place first bit of gear. Scary but a lot of fun.
with Sean
davenev 15 May, 2014 Lead O/S
drgrange 15 May, 2014 2nd
with davenev
with davenev
jon bradley 3 May, 2014 Lead rpt
with Huw Howells
with Huw Howells
Tristypants 30 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with Bec Chalkley
with Bec Chalkley
Hidden 30 Mar, 2014 2nd
BFG 16 Mar, 2014 Lead
Hidden 2 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
AndyF 2 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
jon bradley 20 Jul, 2013 2nd rpt
with Huw Howells
with Huw Howells
MartinN 20 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
mick1jones 13 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with Mike Guttridge
with Mike Guttridge
Felix Ottey 6 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Fantastic route bold start fine though if u keep your head in gear!
Fantastic route bold start fine though if u keep your head in gear!
will_benfold 30 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
cameron_hall 30 Jun, 2013 Lead dog Not so much dogged as cheated - I took a couple of rests by moving straight right onto the crack of Minute Waltz before returning straight left.
Not so much dogged as cheated - I took a couple of rests by moving straight right onto the crack of Minute Waltz before returning straight left.
bpmclimb 19 Jun, 2013 2nd rpt
with Richard
with Richard
Neil Gay 10 Jun, 2013 Lead RP Head pointed
with BenBird
Head pointed
with BenBird
BenBird 10 Jun, 2013 TR Just having a look.
Just having a look.
gjh 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S My first E1 on-sight!
My first E1 on-sight!
tcoombe1 ?Jun, 2013 Lead
bryan61 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with berny
with berny
Hidden 15 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Sep, 2012 TR
gilmourheid 9 Sep, 2012 TR O/S
with Steve27
with Steve27
mattc 3 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
Jobbo 3 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S First E1 for Matt. Nice one!
with mattc
First E1 for Matt. Nice one!
with mattc
Hidden 26 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
sonic46 12 Aug, 2012 Lead
LukeyG 12 Aug, 2012 Lead Some hard thin moves at the bottom until gear and jug higher
Some hard thin moves at the bottom until gear and jug higher
Kayan 6 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with RLeese
with RLeese
wurzelinzummerset 15 Apr, 2012 TR
Dawlish 21 Feb, 2012 2nd Second dave up this one for a warm up
Second dave up this one for a warm up
Bristoldave 20 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
with Dawlish, Mark
with Dawlish, Mark
Hidden 14 Oct, 2011 2nd dog
nick hawkins 14 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
jpksalmon 10 Oct, 2011 TR dog A few slips. Cloudy. First E graded route.
with foxtail
A few slips. Cloudy. First E graded route.
with foxtail
Hidden ?Oct, 2011 TR
Hidden 3 Sep, 2011 Lead RP
hutchay 24 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Louise Ayliffe
with Louise Ayliffe
Dawlish 27 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
stuntsbyjon ?Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
riddle 11 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jun, 2011 2nd
Mr-Cowdrey 4 Jun, 2011 Lead RP first E2 lead after first E1 lead, all in the same day. Thin climbing but nice moves, little gear.
with Lorcan O'Brien
first E2 lead after first E1 lead, all in the same day. Thin climbing but nice moves, little gear.
with Lorcan O'Brien
Hidden 21 May, 2011 TR
Hidden 21 May, 2011 TR β
jon bradley 4 May, 2011 Lead rpt
with Brian Vaughan
with Brian Vaughan
Huntlyfiddler 20 Apr, 2011 2nd
bpmclimb 20 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt Probably E1
Probably E1
Hidden 16 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 28 Mar, 2011 TR rpt Low E2 or high E1 - can't decide.
with Shunt
Low E2 or high E1 - can't decide.
with Shunt
jezb1 11 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Nice moves, perhaps a bit soft for E2?
Nice moves, perhaps a bit soft for E2?
Hidden 16 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Didymus 13 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Fell off and scraped my way down slab luckily without injury. Got back on and sent it without problems.
Fell off and scraped my way down slab luckily without injury. Got back on and sent it without problems.
kiwi boy 8 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S No gear for the first 6 metres. Tough moves to the first piece of gear. Reassuring holds and smears to finish perhaps worth two stars.
with Greg K
No gear for the first 6 metres. Tough moves to the first piece of gear. Reassuring holds and smears to finish perhaps worth two stars.
with Greg K
bpmclimb 5 Aug, 2010 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 5 Aug, 2010 2nd
Graham C 25 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
Marti999 25 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
ian d f 27 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 16 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Claire Durant
with Claire Durant
luke13 27 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Paul
with Paul
paul1234 27 Jun, 2009 2nd
with luke
with luke
cas smerdon 24 Jun, 2009 TR
with bob & chris
with bob & chris
evhall 2 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S very thin - quite difficult slab climbing (but easy for E2)
with CK
very thin - quite difficult slab climbing (but easy for E2)
with CK
deklan 10 May, 2009 Lead
with dad
with dad
Hidden 1 Mar, 2009 TR
Hidden 1 Mar, 2009 TR O/S
Hidden 1 Mar, 2009 TR
vertigo 19 Oct, 2008 Lead β 1st E2 Lead.
1st E2 Lead.
MarkRyder 19 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with vertigo
with vertigo
greedo 13 Jul, 2008 2nd
with Steve Marriott
with Steve Marriott
bpmclimb 23 Jun, 2008 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 23 Jun, 2008 2nd
Hidden 15 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
richardr ?Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
James Moyle 8 May, 2008 Lead rpt Found it difficult to get some of the protection to sit - need offsets!
with D. Murphy
Found it difficult to get some of the protection to sit - need offsets!
with D. Murphy
jon bradley 7 May, 2008 Lead β
with Matt Pearcey
with Matt Pearcey
Hidden 5 May, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Ben1983 5 May, 2008 Lead O/S
petegunn ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2008 2nd O/S
Mark Davies PK 18 Sep, 2007 TR O/S done on shunt
done on shunt
Matt Tranter 15 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
Richard Fox 15 Sep, 2007 2nd O/S
with Kevin VC
with Kevin VC
Hidden 2 Sep, 2007 2nd
Hidden 2 Sep, 2007 Lead
guy xavier percival 27 Aug, 2007 Solo O/S
with none
with none
freelancer_85 17 Aug, 2007 Lead rpt
Paul Robertson 11 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Hannah Redmond
with Hannah Redmond
maybe_si 4 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with jamie
with jamie
Hidden 29 Jul, 2007 2nd O/S
AJM 11 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S Nice climbing, some good moves on it. Decent gear higher up but thin to start off.
with JimR
Nice climbing, some good moves on it. Decent gear higher up but thin to start off.
with JimR
JimR ?Jul, 2007 2nd
with AJM
with AJM
Sarahcrowsley ?Jul, 2007 2nd
Hidden 1 Jun, 2007 TR
freelancer_85 2 May, 2007 Lead O/S Felt harder then Back Off, but it was the end of the day and I was a bit tired.
Felt harder then Back Off, but it was the end of the day and I was a bit tired.
jon bradley ?May, 2007 Lead β Pre-placed gear
with Dave Card
Pre-placed gear
with Dave Card
MarkR 15 Apr, 2007 TR
Hidden 9 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 TR
Huntlyfiddler 31 May, 2006 2nd
bpmclimb 31 May, 2006 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall ??, 2006 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
with Chris Davis
with Chris Davis
John Southworth ?Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
with Vicky Munn
chris sm ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
gripped01 ?Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
with Paul, Lyneham
with Paul, Lyneham
KRB 7 May, 2005 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Sep, 2004 Lead O/S
petegunn 4 Jul, 2004 Lead
with Charlotte
with Charlotte
Dunthemall 18 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
just one more 15 Jun, 2004 Lead
with karen b, Max B
with karen b, Max B
Hidden 12 Jun, 2004 -
just one more 12 Jun, 2004 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
with tim b, Svenn G
Ally Smith ?May, 2004 Lead
with Paz
with Paz
Paz ?May, 2004 Lead
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead
Hidden ??, 2004 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2003 Lead
Digger 5 May, 2003 2nd O/S
with James Latham
with James Latham
Digger 5 May, 2003 2nd O/S
with James Latham
with James Latham
chris sm ?May, 2003 Lead O/S
cornishben ?Jan, 2003 Lead O/S hvs/e1
hvs/e1
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 37
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set