14m. Start under the obvious tree belay at a small overhanging block. Climb up, slightly right, and then back left to the tree.

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 24/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Hidden 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Dave Garnett 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Pete Foster
Hidden 01/Aug/17 2nd
Kayan 01/Aug/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Jul/17 Lead G/U
Hidden 18/Jul/17 2nd rpt
acer2012 28/May/17 Lead O/S

3rd E lead and absolutely bricked it from half way! Did use a nut off to the right to avoid groundfall for most of the route, but assuming that's within the grade. Some OK holds but the feet weren't great and gear V. sparse (or I'm just blind!). Still enjoyable though.

with Olly G
John Sheehan 10/May/17 2nd
with Kelvin
BurnerOfBiggerThings 09/May/17 2nd
67hours 09/May/17 Lead O/S

Could do with a bit of a brush.

with Steve AMC
fharnish13 23/Apr/17 2nd dog
afterthesend 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
emmafizzle 23/Apr/17 2nd β
Hidden 10/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 10/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Took a line to the right joining this route higher up, felt harder. Did the original start after.

ian d f 25/Mar/17 2nd rpt
onlyfoddington 25/Mar/17 Lead G/U

Slipped off whilst trying to fiddle in a second nut, a bit surprised the micro wire held, but glad it did. Didn't really want to lower off it, so down climbed and started over.

with Ian
myrddinmuse 25/Mar/17 2nd RP

Really fun. Went the wrong way then slipped on first go, but did fine with a bit of handy advice off Steve. Not sure if my footwork is quite good enough for this on lead yet.

steve-grigg 25/Mar/17 Lead rpt

Micros would have been nice

Cheese Monkey 23/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Thought the shorter of the pair of E1s here would be easier. Wrong. Nice climbing mind

with Dave
beardy mike ??/2017 -
RJLeish 08/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Stanners 08/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Robrossmills 14/Aug/16 Lead G/U

Two foot slips led to two falls, got it clean in the end though

samparsons 06/Aug/16 Lead β
Hidden 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S
laurence_falconer 24/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead
hands solo 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward ?/May/16 Lead O/S
Jenny Dart ?/May/16 2nd
with Robin
Larey 18/Apr/16 Lead β
Hidden 17/Apr/16 TR
Swsloper 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
hutchay 02/Apr/16 Lead rpt
miriamclaire 02/Apr/16 2nd
with hutchay
Dan0Me 22/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with James S, Mel
James Smith 22/Mar/16 2nd
with dan, melty
Hidden 25/Feb/16 Lead G/U
Phil Anderson ??/2016 2nd
Mike Roger ??/2016 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/15 TR
Hidden 15/Oct/15 TR
steve_gibbs 04/Oct/15 Lead rpt
George Frisby 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Chris Sieradzki 20/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Hooo
Hooo 20/Sep/15 Lead dog

Bold and delicate. Finally got a decent no.3 micro in, then my foot slipped off a damp polished hold and I slumped onto it. Went off route in the middle to place a tricam, making it harder than it needed to be, without actually making it any less run out. Top section is exciting, but felt fine 'cos I wasn't going to deck if I fluffed it (unlike the start).

jsmcfarland 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Great lead by Olly, especially considering he hasn't been climbing much! Pretty hard moves and not all that well protected, especially if you miss crucial placements! (Olly!)

Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd
will_benfold 11/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Adam Perrett 04/Jul/15 TR O/S
with Simon Fowler, Sarah Perrett, John Leonard
johnl 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Simon Fowler, Adam Perrett
Paul Baller 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
Trippinjester 04/Jul/15 TR O/S
Keelan McNulty 24/Jun/15 2nd dog
stalbot 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jun/15 2nd rpt
miriamclaire 25/May/15 2nd O/S
with hutchay
hutchay 25/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
cdpuk 10/May/15 2nd O/S

Good lead from Hammond. Bold if you stay properly on route.

Hidden 10/May/15 2nd dog
Ian JL 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/14 Lead
zcsharp 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John Harris, Steve Gibbs
steve_gibbs 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with John Harris, Jamie Roberts
Echna 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dalinda, Rich
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S
David Maddison 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
steve-grigg 06/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 14/Aug/14 TR
Rob Morgan 27/Jul/14 2nd
MoWalker3 23/Jul/14 -
with Cormac
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Done properly this time (no escaping onto the VDiff for a rest).

trwolfe13 29/Jun/14 2nd dog

Slipped twice at the start, because of shoddy footwork. Rest of it was clean.

thomb 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Quite bold until you get the first good nut in at about 5-7 meters height.

with Jana
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Ric
Steve Bartle 31/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
nicknicely 19/May/14 2nd
with brian
bpmclimb 19/May/14 Lead rpt
felixizzy 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Proper elvis leg trying to place first bit of gear. Scary but a lot of fun.

with Sean
davenev 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with David
drgrange 15/May/14 2nd
with davenev
jon bradley 03/May/14 Lead rpt
with Huw Howells
Tristypants 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Bec Chalkley
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd
BFG 16/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with John Parrott
AndyF 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
jon bradley 20/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Huw Howells
MartinN 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
mick1jones 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Guttridge
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
will_benfold 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Cameron
cameron_hall 30/Jun/13 Lead dog

Not so much dogged as cheated - I took a couple of rests by moving straight right onto the crack of Minute Waltz before returning straight left.

bpmclimb 19/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Richard
Neil Gay 10/Jun/13 Lead RP

Head pointed

BenBird 10/Jun/13 TR

Just having a look.

gjh 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

My first E1 on-sight!

tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
bryan61 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with berny
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 TR
gilmourheid 09/Sep/12 TR O/S
with Steve27
mattc 03/Sep/12 Lead RP
Jobbo 03/Sep/12 2nd O/S

First E1 for Matt. Nice one!

Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
sonic46 12/Aug/12 Lead
LukeyG 12/Aug/12 Lead

Some hard thin moves at the bottom until gear and jug higher

Kayan 06/May/12 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 15/Apr/12 TR
with Mick
Dawlish 21/Feb/12 2nd

Second dave up this one for a warm up

Bristoldave 20/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Dawlish, Mark
Hidden 14/Oct/11 2nd dog
nick hawkins 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jpksalmon 10/Oct/11 TR dog

A few slips. Cloudy. First E graded route.

with Hannah
Hidden ?/Oct/11 TR
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
hutchay 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Louise Ayliffe
Dawlish 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
stuntsbyjon ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
riddle 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd
Mr-Cowdrey 04/Jun/11 Lead RP

first E2 lead after first E1 lead, all in the same day. Thin climbing but nice moves, little gear.

with Lorcan O'Brien
Hidden 21/May/11 TR
Hidden 21/May/11 TR β
jon bradley 04/May/11 Lead rpt
with Brian Vaughan
Huntlyfiddler 20/Apr/11 2nd
bpmclimb 20/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Probably E1

with Clare
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 28/Mar/11 TR rpt

Low E2 or high E1 - can't decide.

with Shunt
jezb1 11/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Nice moves, perhaps a bit soft for E2?

Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Didymus 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Fell off and scraped my way down slab luckily without injury. Got back on and sent it without problems.

with Rich
kiwi boy 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

No gear for the first 6 metres. Tough moves to the first piece of gear. Reassuring holds and smears to finish perhaps worth two stars.

with Greg K
bpmclimb 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 05/Aug/10 2nd
Graham C 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
ian d f 27/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Claire Durant
luke13 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Paul
paul1234 27/Jun/09 2nd
with luke
cas smerdon 24/Jun/09 TR
with bob & chris
evhall 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S

very thin - quite difficult slab climbing (but easy for E2)

with CK
deklan 10/May/09 Lead
with dad
Hidden 01/Mar/09 TR
Hidden 01/Mar/09 TR O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/09 TR
vertigo 19/Oct/08 Lead β

1st E2 Lead.

MarkRyder 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
greedo 13/Jul/08 2nd
with Steve Marriott
bpmclimb 23/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 23/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
James Moyle 08/May/08 Lead rpt

Found it difficult to get some of the protection to sit - need offsets!

with D. Murphy
jon bradley 07/May/08 Lead β
with Matt Pearcey
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Ben1983 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
Mark Davies PK 18/Sep/07 TR O/S

done on shunt

Matt Tranter 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Richard Fox 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Kevin VC
Hidden 02/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 02/Sep/07 Lead
guy xavier percival 27/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
freelancer_85 17/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Megan
Paul Robertson 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Hannah Redmond
maybe_si 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with jamie
Hidden 29/Jul/07 2nd O/S
AJM 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Nice climbing, some good moves on it. Decent gear higher up but thin to start off.

JimR ?/Jul/07 2nd
with AJM
Hidden 01/Jun/07 TR
freelancer_85 02/May/07 Lead O/S

Felt harder then Back Off, but it was the end of the day and I was a bit tired.

with Megan
jon bradley ?/May/07 Lead β

Pre-placed gear

with Dave Card
MarkR 15/Apr/07 TR
Hidden 09/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 TR
Huntlyfiddler 31/May/06 2nd
bpmclimb 31/May/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Davis
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
chris sm ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
gripped01 ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Paul, Lyneham
KRB 07/May/05 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/04 Lead
just one more 15/Jun/04 Lead
with karen b, Max B
Hidden 12/Jun/04 -
just one more 12/Jun/04 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
Ally Smith ?/May/04 Lead
Paz ?/May/04 Lead
with AS
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 2nd O/S
Digger 05/May/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
Digger 05/May/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
chris sm ?/May/03 Lead O/S
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S


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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 35
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
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Low 5a
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Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
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