14m. Start under the obvious tree belay at a small overhanging block. Climb up, slightly right, and then back left to the tree.

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 24/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Stanners 08/Sep/16 Lead O/S
RJLeish 08/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Robrossmills 14/Aug/16 Lead G/U

Two foot slips led to two falls, got it clean in the end though

samparsons 06/Aug/16 Lead β
Hidden 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S
laurence_falconer 24/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead
hands solo 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward ?/May/16 Lead O/S
Jenny Dart ?/May/16 2nd
with Robin
Larey 18/Apr/16 Lead β
Mayaculpa 17/Apr/16 TR
with Kate
Swsloper 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
hutchay 02/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Dan0Me 22/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with James S, Mel
James S 22/Mar/16 2nd
with dan, melty
Hidden 25/Feb/16 Lead G/U
Phil Anderson ??/2016 2nd
Mike Roger ??/2016 Lead
Mayaculpa 17/Oct/15 TR
with Andrew V, Jennie
Mayaculpa 15/Oct/15 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
steve_gibbs 04/Oct/15 Lead rpt
George Frisby 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Chris Sieradzki 20/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Hooo
Hooo 20/Sep/15 Lead dog

Bold and delicate. Finally got a decent no.3 micro in, then my foot slipped off a damp polished hold and I slumped onto it. Went off route in the middle to place a tricam, making it harder than it needed to be, without actually making it any less run out. Top section is exciting, but felt fine 'cos I wasn't going to deck if I fluffed it (unlike the start).

jsmcfarland 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Great lead by Olly, especially considering he hasn't been climbing much! Pretty hard moves and not all that well protected, especially if you miss crucial placements! (Olly!)

Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd
will_benfold 11/Jul/15 Lead rpt
johnl 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Simon Fowler, Adam Perrett
Paul Baller 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
Trippinjester 04/Jul/15 TR O/S
Adam Perrett 04/Jul/15 TR O/S
with Simon Fowler, Sarah Perrett, John Leonard
stalbot 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Keelan McNulty 24/Jun/15 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jun/15 2nd rpt
miriamclaire 25/May/15 2nd O/S
with hutchay
hutchay 25/May/15 Lead rpt
cdpuk 10/May/15 2nd O/S

Good lead from Hammond. Bold if you stay properly on route.

Hidden 10/May/15 2nd dog
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Ian JL 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/14 Lead
zcsharp 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John Harris, Steve Gibbs
steve_gibbs 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with John Harris, Jamie Roberts
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Echna 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dalinda, Rich
Hidden 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S
David Maddison 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
steve-grigg 06/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Woolly 14/Aug/14 TR
Rob Morgan 27/Jul/14 2nd
MoWalker3 23/Jul/14 -
with Cormac
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
trwolfe13 29/Jun/14 2nd dog

Slipped twice at the start, because of shoddy footwork. Rest of it was clean.

cameron_hall 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Done properly this time (no escaping onto the VDiff for a rest).

thomb 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Quite bold until you get the first good nut in at about 5-7 meters height.

with Jana
wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Ric
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Alan
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
Steve Bartle 31/May/14 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 19/May/14 Lead rpt
nicknicely 19/May/14 2nd
with brian
felixizzy 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Proper elvis leg trying to place first bit of gear. Scary but a lot of fun.

with Sean
davenev 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with David
drgrange 15/May/14 2nd
with davenev
jon bradley 03/May/14 Lead rpt
with Huw Howells
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd
Tristypants 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Bec Chalkley
BFG 16/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with John Parrott
AndyF 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
MartinN 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
jon bradley 20/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Huw Howells
mick1jones 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Guttridge
Felix Ottey 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic route bold start fine though if u keep your head in gear!

cameron_hall 30/Jun/13 Lead dog

Not so much dogged as cheated - I took a couple of rests by moving straight right onto the crack of Minute Waltz before returning straight left.

will_benfold 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Cameron
bpmclimb 19/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Richard
Neil Gay 10/Jun/13 Lead RP

Head pointed

BenBird 10/Jun/13 TR

Just having a look.

gjh 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

My first E1 on-sight!

tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 TR
gilmourheid 09/Sep/12 TR O/S
with Steve27
mattc 03/Sep/12 Lead RP
Jobbo 03/Sep/12 2nd O/S

First E1 for Matt. Nice one!

Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
sonic46 12/Aug/12 Lead
LukeyG 12/Aug/12 Lead

Some hard thin moves at the bottom until gear and jug higher

Kayan 06/May/12 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 15/Apr/12 TR
with Mick
Dawlish 21/Feb/12 2nd

Second dave up this one for a warm up

Bristoldave 20/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Dawlish, Mark
Hidden 14/Oct/11 2nd dog
nick hawkins 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jpksalmon 10/Oct/11 TR dog

A few slips. Cloudy. First E graded route.

with Hannah
Hidden ?/Oct/11 TR
will909 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
hutchay 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Louise Ayliffe
Dawlish 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
stuntsbyjon ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
riddle 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd
Mr-Cowdrey 04/Jun/11 Lead RP

first E2 lead after first E1 lead, all in the same day. Thin climbing but nice moves, little gear.

with Lorcan O'Brien
will909 21/May/11 TR
will909 21/May/11 TR β
jon bradley 04/May/11 Lead rpt
with Brian Vaughan
bpmclimb 20/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Probably E1

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 20/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 28/Mar/11 TR rpt

Low E2 or high E1 - can't decide.

with Shunt
jezb1 11/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Nice moves, perhaps a bit soft for E2?

Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Didymus 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Fell off and scraped my way down slab luckily without injury. Got back on and sent it without problems.

with Rich
kiwi boy 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

No gear for the first 6 metres. Tough moves to the first piece of gear. Reassuring holds and smears to finish perhaps worth two stars.

with Greg K
bpmclimb 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 05/Aug/10 2nd
Marti999 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Graham C 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
ian d f 27/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Claire Durant
paul1234 27/Jun/09 2nd
with luke
luke13 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Paul
cas smerdon 24/Jun/09 TR
with bob & chris
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S
deklan 10/May/09 Lead
with dad
Hidden 01/Mar/09 TR
Hidden 01/Mar/09 TR O/S
vertigo 19/Oct/08 Lead β

1st E2 Lead.

MarkRyder 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
greedo 13/Jul/08 2nd
with Steve Marriott
bpmclimb 23/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
James Moyle 08/May/08 Lead rpt

Found it difficult to get some of the protection to sit - need offsets!

with D. Murphy
jon bradley 07/May/08 Lead β
with Matt Pearcey
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Ben1983 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd O/S
petegunn ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
Mark Davies PK 18/Sep/07 TR O/S

done on shunt

Richard Fox 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Kevin VC
Matt Tranter 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 02/Sep/07 Lead
guy xavier percival 27/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
freelancer_85 17/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Megan
Paul Robertson 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Hannah Redmond
maybe_si 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with jamie
Hidden 29/Jul/07 2nd O/S
AJM 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Nice climbing, some good moves on it. Decent gear higher up but thin to start off.

JimR ?/Jul/07 2nd
with AJM
Hidden 01/Jun/07 TR
freelancer_85 02/May/07 Lead O/S

Felt harder then Back Off, but it was the end of the day and I was a bit tired.

with Megan
jon bradley ?/May/07 Lead β

Pre-placed gear

with Dave Card
MarkR 15/Apr/07 TR
remus 09/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 TR
bpmclimb 31/May/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Davis
chris sm ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
gripped01 ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Paul, Lyneham
KRB 07/May/05 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/04 Lead O/S
petegunn 04/Jul/04 Lead
with Charlotte
just one more 15/Jun/04 Lead
with karen b, Max B
Hidden 12/Jun/04 -
just one more 12/Jun/04 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
Paz ?/May/04 Lead
with AS
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Digger 05/May/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
Digger 05/May/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
chris sm ?/May/03 Lead O/S
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S


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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 28
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
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Low 5a
Votes cast 43
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Style of ascent
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