The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
Start at the line of cracks and runnels on the right-hand side of The Glacis. Head up the runnels and go right at 10m to gain and follow grey flowstone to a grassy finish. Do not attempt if damp. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This route takes the obvious system of cracks and runnels which rise for 10m before trending right and merging into a darker flowstone formation near the top of the slab (providing the crux). Exit the slab slightly left; then trend right up grass slopes to a good tree. The gear is a little spaced, but not unreasonably so, and part of the flowstone flake near the top is flexing and requires care.
FA. R.A.Broomhead, J.Stanbury 30/Mar/2002.
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