28m. Quite bold and insecure in places: high in the grade. Start at the lowest point of the right-hand slab of the Glacis. Climb straight up past the blast pocket and trend slightly right up the slab above (thin) to reach a ledge and sapling. From the left end of the ledge, make bold moves up and left to gain a shallow runnel, which is followed to the top of the slab. Go up grassy ledges to a lower off.

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 01/Jun/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Hidden 03/Sep/17 Lead O/S
crater 02/Sep/17 2nd rpt
with mike
budchawla 13/Aug/17 2nd O/S

I climbed very carefully with an injured toe (capoeira injury) but a nice climb - not too much gear but a nice mix of delicate moves with easy sections in between. Top slab direct finish has some tiny smears!

etrillaud 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Bud
Hidden 18/Jul/17 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Jun/17 Lead rpt
JoeGross 24/Jun/17 2nd O/S
Sam116 18/Jun/17 TR O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/17 TR O/S
SPatrick 18/Jun/17 TR O/S
with Joe
Hannah Gorvin 18/Jun/17 TR dog
with Sam116
simibrown 12/Jun/17 Lead
with Toby
RobScarisbrick 11/Jun/17 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/17 Lead dnf
davehope 21/May/17 Lead dnf
davehope 21/May/17 2nd
Steve Webster 21/May/17 Lead rpt
fharnish13 23/Apr/17 2nd β
WillAndrew 23/Apr/17 2nd rpt
afterthesend 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 23/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with WillAndrew, Rob
Skip 22/Apr/17 2nd O/S
oli87 20/Apr/17 2nd β
Hidden 10/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 10/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/17 Lead
Hidden 29/Oct/16 -
Hidden 28/Oct/16 TR
Stanners 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S

lucky to have got this in before the drizzle turned into proper rain. Enough gear with a healthy selection of micros . PLeasent.

with Fiend, Mark Davis
Robin Woodward 12/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Nice route, just enough protection, went direct at the top (was quite a stretch to reach a positive hold before topping out).

samparsons 06/Aug/16 Lead β
leland stamper 20/Jul/16 TR O/S

Quite pleased with that

with S.hunt
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
julesmckim 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

only route of the day that felt hard for the grade. Not technical but bold

Jimkato ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Matt Walker
crater 16/May/16 TR O/S
with steve
crater 16/May/16 TR
hands solo 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 01/May/16 Lead O/S

Started up Last Tango in Oakhill, escaped on to this due to calf pump/ insecure feet.

with Tom Hudson
Dan0Me 22/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with James S, Mel
James Smith 22/Mar/16 2nd
with melty, dan
Phil Anderson ??/2016 TR
Mike Roger ??/2016 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Oct/15 TR
WillAndrew 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S

First (fairy cave) E1!

Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Wendy Watthews 03/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Tom FP
Hidden 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S
kelliroberts3 19/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Fjsinclair 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Vnockles 26/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Smith
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
51fizzycheeky 11/Jul/15 TR O/S
Laurence20 09/Jul/15 Solo O/S
Adam Perrett 04/Jul/15 TR O/S
with Simon Fowler, Sarah Perrett, John Leonard
Hidden 04/Jul/15 2nd rpt
johnl 04/Jul/15 Lead β
with Simon Fowler, Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett
Paul Baller 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Hvs at most. Limited gear but easy climbing.

with matt stevens
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Trippinjester 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Bob M 18/Jun/15 TR
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jun/15 2nd rpt
onlyfoddington 05/Jun/15 TR O/S
Hugobristol 28/May/15 Lead O/S

Well protected good climbing.

with Riccy, Pippa
riccynino 28/May/15 2nd O/S
with Pippa Churcher, Hugo
miriamclaire 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with hutchay
hutchay 25/May/15 2nd
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd
cdpuk 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Nice clean route.

evhall 02/May/15 Lead rpt

thin moves - but nice climb - 11 weeks post ankle break

with Mike B
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 11/Apr/15 2nd rpt
pablosordo ??/2015 Lead O/S
timstyles 02/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Steady with nice moves. Used several micro wires.

with Huw Howells
zcsharp 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John Harris, Steve Gibbs
steve_gibbs 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with John Harris, Jamie Roberts
Echna 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dalinda, Rich
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt
steve-grigg 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
David Maddison 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 05/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
MoWalker3 30/Jul/14 -
with Cormac
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Soft 5b climbing with loads of good gear. Really enjoyed this one.

with Jana
lazzaw 18/Jun/14 TR rpt
with Steve Banford, Jonathan Cook
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing with marginal gear.

wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Ric
shim ?/Jun/14 2nd
mikedevcole 26/May/14 Lead RP

Tope roped once after Dave C has lead Minute Waltz for a warm-up. Decided to lead afterwards. First E1.

nicknicely 19/May/14 2nd
with brian
bpmclimb 19/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/May/14 Lead
Vincej 19/May/14 2nd
with Nevil
felixizzy 14/May/14 Lead O/S
with Craig
Adrian Daniels 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Steve Webster 05/May/14 2nd
kirsten 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Brian
bpmclimb 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Kirsten
BALD EAGLE 12/Apr/14 2nd
with Kevin Van Colina
J.Atkins 10/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Ian JL 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Dizz 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

E2 5b probably fairer grade for the gear.

with Simon P
BFG 16/Mar/14 2nd
si_pro_83 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Liz
The Ivanator 15/Mar/14 TR O/S

Some nice moves, did curving leftwards runnel finish.

with Toby, Rich
Patrick Clissold 14/Mar/14 Lead
with Will Laws
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd
sonic46 24/Nov/13 TR O/S

Tried to lead, a little greasy and the side pull near the sapling 2/3 of the way up was full of mud! so took a fall here - unfortunately the small nuts didn't hold, but did slow me down. Great belaying from Matt - thank you Great climb on the top rope - maybe next time with pre placed gear :)

Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead
Tristypants 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Helen Eden
Hidden 21/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd
jezb1 11/Aug/13 Lead


AndyF 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Great climb... well run out. Micro cams come in very useful!

Chazwoz 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
jon bradley 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Huw Howells
will_benfold 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Cameron
cameron_hall 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Solo rpt
markfromstoke 20/Jun/13 Lead
with Steve N
bpmclimb 19/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Richard
katherinesydney 05/Jun/13 2nd rpt

With one harness between two for added faff

lazzaw 05/Jun/13 TR O/S
with Steve Banford, Jonathan Cook
Hidden 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead
bryan61 06/May/13 2nd O/S
with berny
lazzaw 02/May/13 TR O/S

Had set up a toprope for the kids to climb Minute Waltz so seemed a shame not to give it a go. Lovely climbing although, had I been leading, sketchy gear placements widely spaced would have lead to some Elvis leg.

with Steve Banford, Jude
jon_ridley 17/Apr/13 Lead


Hidden 17/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead rpt
homing-penguin 19/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
gilmourheid 09/Sep/12 Lead dog

Had a wee fall near the half way tree.

with Steve27
Hidden 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
wilkinscl ?/Sep/12 -
Hidden 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
LukeyG 12/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
stuntsbyjon 28/Jul/12 2nd β
upontop 22/Jul/12 Lead
with Sophie
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
adam 24 02/Jun/12 2nd β
riddle 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Dawlish 30/May/12 2nd O/S
with pete
Hidden 30/May/12 Lead
katherinesydney 24/May/12 2nd O/S
with bill naylor, mike kann
Kayan 06/May/12 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 02/May/12 Lead rpt

With gear in situ.

with Mick
BALD EAGLE 31/Mar/12 Lead
with Rob Horler
tomshanti 27/Mar/12 2nd rpt

tough,great.flowed nicely as second this time

bpmclimb 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 26/Mar/12 2nd
with Brian
Hidden 25/Mar/12 TR O/S
Samuel P 25/Mar/12 TR O/S
lukerathmell 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with steve
Hidden 24/Mar/12 TR
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead
lukerathmell 24/Mar/12 Lead
with steve
robbie Warke 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Only 5a E1mmm maybe

with Paula Warke
Mr-Cowdrey 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Zoe Trunks
bpmclimb 31/Jan/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
J.Atkins 21/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
nick hawkins 14/Oct/11 2nd
jpksalmon 10/Oct/11 TR O/S


with Hannah
Hidden ?/Oct/11 TR
Hidden 24/Aug/11 2nd
hutchay 24/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Chrissie Baylis 21/Aug/11 TR RP

Finally did it

with Cerberus1956
Neil Watson 14/Aug/11 TR O/S
Sam..Oliver 30/Jul/11 Lead
stpauliblade 30/Jul/11 2nd
stpauliblade 30/Jul/11 Lead
Aaron Phillips 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S

very easy (but no gear) and graded E2 in Wiki Topos.

with my dad
Dawlish 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

can't decide if this is E2 or hard E1

timstyles 27/Jul/11 2nd β
Warner 11/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/11 2nd
mick1jones 10/Jul/11 2nd β

Tried leading it and bottled it and went off route as gear was small and spaced (RP's)

with Rich Rogers
Mark Davies PK 11/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Paul Robertson
Paul Robertson 11/Jun/11 Lead rpt

RH finish

MajorRS 21/May/11 2nd O/S
TomBaker 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jessica Jackson, Dan Warren
hutchay 16/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ricky Straw
Hidden 16/May/11 2nd
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead RP
jon bradley 04/May/11 Lead rpt
with Brian Vaughan
Hidden ?/May/11 TR
bpmclimb 20/Apr/11 TR rpt
with Shunt
joeurwin 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Neil Gay
Neil Gay 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd β
bpmclimb 20/Mar/11 Lead rpt

High in the grade - insecure climbing above not very convincing protection. Some FCQ E2s are less worrying, eg Jive Talkin', or Back Off.

with Helen S
nick hawkins 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
davenev 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Great route - mid section crux and nice flowing sequence to finish

with luke
Mr Tickle 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Loved this climb, really nice moves. Comfortable E1.

with davenev
cas smerdon 01/Sep/10 TR
with mark joyce
SharonC1604 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S

My first extreme climb - loved it.

karenhh 30/Aug/10 2nd
jezb1 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Really enjoyable and quite run out.

Tom_Harding 08/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Tim
bpmclimb 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 05/Aug/10 2nd
Si dH 27/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Great route, surely at least 2* Thought it was hard for E1 - sustained climbing, with only just adequate (and very fiddly) gear most of the way up. The last move to the ledge, and the last move to the jug in the top groove, were both hard 5b. Really enjoyed flowing up it on second though - one of those routes :)

with Jim R
Graham C 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
wilf 25/Jul/10 TR

took the opportunity of top rope with nick having led minute waltz. felt comfortable, thought pro potential looked ok

with nick f
Marti999 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Philip de-Beger 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Nice climb. A bit soft for E1. Got in much more gear than expected and most of it was good.

with Andrew Hill
kiwi boy 24/Jul/10 2nd

first bit of gear a real shocker for phil. good gear otherwise so much so that had to strip out two on the absail back down Six in total. two 5b moves half way up and 2/3 up. Interesting finish

with phil
Hidden ??/2010 Lead β
ian d f 27/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Claire Durant
Tom_Harding 16/Aug/09 Lead β
with Gordy
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
WoD 30/Jul/09 TR O/S

First E1 climb. Quite a lot of nice holds.

with Sophie
sofe13 20/Jul/09 2nd

Easier than expected, well chuffed! gear was hard, Juls moaned a lot about it, though she seemed to find the climb easy enough

with Juls
jon thompson27 03/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with simon mayell
cas smerdon 24/Jun/09 TR
with bob & chris
paul1234 12/Jun/09 2nd
with luke
luke13 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Paul
evhall 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S

easy slab climbing

with CK
tobydunford 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 2nd
Hidden 28/May/09 Lead
Hidden 28/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/09 Lead O/S
AlexD 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
joeurwin 13/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with alex
jon bradley 20/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Huw Howells
bazzag 15/Mar/09 TR
with alison,reece,ollie and ryan
MarkRyder 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Lee
upontop 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Chris
greedo 13/Jul/08 2nd
with Steve Marriott
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 23/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 23/Jun/08 2nd
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/08 Lead O/S
cem 27/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Dan from Stroud
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
beardy mike ??/2008 -
Paul Robertson 14/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Mark Davies PK 16/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Clare
Richard Fox 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Baldeagle
JPGR 26/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 23/Aug/07 Solo rpt
Matt Tranter 11/Aug/07 Lead
guy xavier percival 09/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
Jen79 ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Matt Tranter
Dan_Carroll 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
JimR ?/Jul/07 Lead
with AJM
Hidden 01/Jun/07 TR
freelancer_85 29/May/07 Lead O/S
with Toby and Megan
bpmclimb 22/May/07 Lead rpt

Not very comforting gear

with Clare, Mike L, Val
Ybot Htulk ?/May/07 2nd
with Josh & Megan
jon bradley ?/May/07 Lead β

Pre-placed gear

with Dave Card
kevinknights 07/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Good climbing

John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
Hidden 09/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Phil Murray 08/Jul/06 Lead β

My first E1. I think. "High in the grade"... - yikes! Thin.

with Steve Wright
dpmUK 01/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Huntlyfiddler 11/May/06 2nd
bpmclimb 11/May/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
Epic Ebdon 06/May/06 2nd O/S
with James Wasiak
Hidden 22/Apr/06 2nd O/S
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
chris sm ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
cornishben ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Sims
KRB 07/May/05 Solo O/S
James Moyle 01/May/05 Lead dog

Fell about 30ft from the crux!

with D. Murphy
Hidden 17/Feb/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/04 Lead
daza 13/Jun/04 Lead
with Ed
just one more 28/May/04 Lead
with tim b
Ally Smith ?/May/04 Lead
Paz ?/May/04 Lead
with AS
Mark Davies PK ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Francis Lickerish
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Digger 20/May/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
chris sm ?/May/03 Lead O/S
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 53
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set