About 4m right of Flake 4. Up to a ledge then straight up the groove above. Moving left at the crux is VS 4c.

Spindle200 05/Oct Lead O/S
Mike-W-99 04/Aug Lead rpt
with Prof Mike, Fiona
Fiona Reid 03/Aug 2nd
with Mike O, Mike
evanc77 03/Jun 2nd
with Lynn, Potsy
lynnpotts84 03/Jun 2nd
with Evan, Potsy
Potsy 03/Jun Lead
with Evan
Hidden 28/May 2nd
Sylvian B 17/May Lead O/S

Two cams needed.

abbeywall 17/May 2nd rpt
oliverk 09/May Lead rpt
with Zoe
malcolm.harris 08/Apr Lead dog

Same experience as quite a few people I see... failed to find foothold on the polish on the crux, gear failed other than the very first piece I placed so decked out but was luckily unhurt.

Busby 08/Apr Lead O/S
Rob N 08/Apr Lead O/S
GMohr 02/Apr TR O/S
Oliver Smaje 02/Apr 2nd O/S
with Mojca, Beth
RobOwen61 21/Jan 2nd
nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
icehockeyhair 29/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with Dom, Danny
Chuck 11/Sep/16 Lead
with Carrie Craig
Peter Metcalfe 28/Aug/16 2nd
salix 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S

continued interest

Quad 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
David Cooper 16/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Will
Fiona Reid 08/Jun/16 2nd
Mike-W-99 08/Jun/16 Lead rpt
JFT 08/Jun/16 2nd O/S

mike &fiona

Peter Metcalfe 30/May/16 Lead
tbmcbrid 24/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Good pro, with many committing moves. Quite an enjoyable climb.

with Fi
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/15 2nd dog
ross83 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
ChrisH89 04/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/15 Lead
OMara81 15/Jul/15 2nd
Sylvian B 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Went too far left!

HaddRoots 29/Jun/15 Solo rpt
JosefGoeth 18/Jun/15 Lead
Craig Holden 02/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Lamb 20/May/15 2nd O/S
seanhendo123 20/May/15 Lead O/S
with Lamb
MightyStew 27/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/15 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Apr/15 Lead
calum404 15/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 15/Apr/15 Lead
crombie 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Lee
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
jrck2 19/Mar/15 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/15 2nd
stevorobs3 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Szymon
Dr Toph 11/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Sep/14 2nd O/S
jrck2 10/Aug/14 -
Manix 28/Jul/14 2nd
with Alan Verona
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Valaisan 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Ewanski 01/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
ClareM.123 24/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Rested on gear before going for the crux move, nut wasn't as 'bomber' as first thought and popped resulting in my first trad fall, onto a well placed cam. Calum went on to lead and I followed up on Second, Glad I didn't get any higher on lead!

calum404 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Clean onsight apart from the gear Clare lowered off on. Scared myself shitless on this, definitely the most scared I've been while climbing. Looking back on it I'm glad I managed it, feet were a bit sketchy though.

davesa 22/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd
steve7734 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with James Jackson
tom.dodo 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Committing move after the first slab, little gear and tricky, polished footholds. Bit of a runout, slightly scary but felt so good after it.

with Luca
redbass 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Tommy
KeithAlexander 24/May/14 Lead O/S
Sarah Greenwood 24/May/14 2nd O/S
Fiona Reid 21/May/14 2nd
with Barbara, Mike
Mike-W-99 21/May/14 Lead
with Fiona
brad_tait 14/May/14 2nd
wookie667 14/May/14 Lead
ClimbingGlen 12/May/14 Lead dnf

Backed off the route. Struggled to find a decent hold halfway up!

Hidden ??/2014 Solo
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
TwoChimes 31/Aug/13 Lead
with Davy B
darunniff ?/Aug/13 Lead
Chris(cface!) 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Arnott
jamesgr87 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Davy B 05/Jul/13 Lead
hedgehog_john 01/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd
martinh13 19/Jun/13 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
martinh13 01/Jun/13 2nd
with Andy
lou_rankine ?/Jun/13 2nd
James90 26/May/13 2nd
with heather w, Marnoch
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
mhamiltonj 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with James
Calum Hoad 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Amazing weather. Difficult crux in middle of route, run out above cam with sketchy moves on slippy holds. Via MacNiven not-so-direct.

with Zach
Antd 05/May/13 Lead

extremely polished - makes for unpleasant foot placements. well protected though.

with Liza Wolfson
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd
davesa 27/Apr/13 Lead
James90 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
HaddRoots 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
eckymof 27/Mar/13 Lead
Mark Bull 01/Oct/12 2nd
with Mike
Hjbvet 12/Sep/12 2nd
with David Runnif
horsefeathers 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Niall, Louise
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
ARV77 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Jenny Ventham
glenngordon 31/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with mike walker
Hidden 31/Jul/12 2nd
abbeywall 25/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/12 Lead rpt
daWalt 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

hmmm, dosn't quite feel as well protected as VS5a would suggest.

with Lisa
Andy Hewison 27/May/12 Lead dog

I thought the start was the crux move, discovered that was higher up. Fell about 6m, 2 bits of gear ripped out but number 1 nut kept me from decking it. Biggest bruise ever on my ar*e and back. Got up it as a second after that!

adamc 27/May/12 Lead O/S

First VS! WooHoo!

indigostarlight 26/May/12 Lead dnf

Fell off, hit ledge and spent the rest of the afternoon in a&e. Prior to that, a nice route :)

Tim Hamlet 25/May/12 2nd
Laura Hamlet 25/May/12 Lead dnf
Laura Hamlet 25/May/12 2nd rpt
Baggie 24/May/12 Lead O/S

First VS

mattdown 24/May/12 2nd
Gabe Oliver 24/May/12 Lead O/S

Really enjoyable climb on a gorgeous summer evening. A must do at Traprain

andybroadway 01/May/12 Lead O/S
with Jonathan McMillan
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd O/S
Mike-W-99 24/Apr/12 2nd
with Fiona
Fiona Reid 24/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Mike
Antd 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Al Macleod
Macleod 03/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with anthony
adscott87 ?/Mar/12 TR rpt
adie84 ??/2012 -
Paulshipman ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Sean Cochrane
sophiecb 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Lovely route and not so polished for Traprain. Lots of pro. What a fun evening: a wee climb for me and a flight for Seb from the top of the crag before the light faded:)

with Seb
sebrider 01/Sep/11 2nd

Lead dnf, second onsight, hard VS, easy 5a, polish...whatever...the nice southerly and paragliding after was much more exciting ;)

Nic DW 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Robyn
Peter Metcalfe 20/Aug/11 Lead
sergio46 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A bit wet, made it interesting for foot hold at crux!

with Tim Lukins
Hidden 05/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Harry Holmes 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Morgan Trigg
rallymania 12/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead
treejamie 19/May/11 Lead O/S
oliverk 10/May/11 Lead
with Malcolm, Sarah Moorhouse
Mike-W-99 20/Apr/11 2nd
with Fiona
Fiona Reid 20/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Mike
james.fathers 23/Mar/11 2nd
with Alistair Black, Donald Slater
fall-line 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with James Fathers, Alistair Black
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
radioshed 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S

very nice route, good gear where you would like it

with emma t
Shaun C ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead β
lisafer ??/2011 -
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Pat-H 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Ewanski 02/Sep/10 2nd β
with Nick B
Hidden 31/Aug/10 2nd
Fiona Reid 19/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Mike, Mark
Mike-W-99 19/Aug/10 2nd
with mark, Fiona
Mark Bull 19/Aug/10 2nd
with MikeW, Fiona
mastiffmat 10/Aug/10 Lead
Fiona Reid 29/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Mike
Mike-W-99 29/Jul/10 2nd
with Fiona
Hidden 25/Jul/10 TR
Gavin L 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mairi
Cacyn 20/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Tom Bain
JonnyCrimper 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with pete
sneaks 07/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with janey
Hidden 07/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Fiona Reid 16/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Mike, Ron
Mike-W-99 16/Jun/10 2nd
with Fiona
krasavenko 03/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Barney
barney_edin 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Liyen
JdotP 02/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Kerstin Brzezek
hexcentric 25/May/10 Lead rpt
with jimmy savill
DundeeDave 23/May/10 2nd dog
abbeywall 19/May/10 Lead
Fiona Reid 18/May/10 2nd

Mark went up the variation, I went direct.

with Mike, Mark
Mike-W-99 18/May/10 2nd
with mark, Fiona
rnotman67 16/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/10 TR
Pete23 ?/May/10 Lead
with Neil Robb
Stuart Macfarlane 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Jeanie
niallk 17/Apr/10 2nd
climberuk 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Big shaky at the crux but enjoyed the whole route.

with Niall
J Brown 17/Mar/10 Lead O/S
kbrown 17/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with J Brown
Ewanski ?/Jan/10 2nd
with Nick B
nich0las ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Ewan P
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
jess 20/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with martin
Hidden 03/Oct/09 Lead
Snap 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Matt
Stephen18 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/09 2nd
LittleLuka 19/Jul/09 2nd
with Niggle
Hidden 16/Jul/09 2nd
guyscott 09/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Angie
Fiona Reid 02/Jun/09 Lead rpt

Had some route finding issues, veered briefly onto Wobble, then too far left instead. Some tenuous stuff to get back on route - lessons learned don't listen to folks shouting instructions from below and look at the guidebook rather than attempting to remember where the route goes!

with Mike
Mike-W-99 02/Jun/09 2nd
with Fiona
hubereini 20/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with andy
andymoin 20/Apr/09 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/09 2nd O/S
gregoldridge 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

found it hard

timcussins 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Greg
iceicebaby 19/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Done in the dark :) Great wee route, but a bit polished at the bottom and at the crux - actually more of an issue for feet than hands in this case.

Paul L ??/2009 Lead O/S
daWalt 30/Dec/08 2nd O/S
Ian Jones ?/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Walter Robison
JdotP 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Dan Missen, Craig Walling
wileejoe 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Steven
Stuart Macfarlane 14/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Harry, Jeanie
Hay ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing great gear and the top slab is lovely.

with Scott and Lewis
Boistelle 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Kellitt
benbers 10/May/08 2nd O/S
with Andrew Latham
sneaks 22/Apr/08 -
with Gibby, Brian kim
Hidden 28/Mar/08 Lead
RobScotland 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Enjoyable route - small cam useful for quick protection (10mm wide crack) just before crux.

with Dougie
Lawrie Brand 09/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Barrow
oliverk 19/Jun/07 2nd
lazybones 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Helen Sanders
Fiona Reid 25/May/07 Lead O/S

A wee wobble about 10m up but held on. Close to my limit in places

with Mike
Mike-W-99 25/May/07 2nd
with Fiona
richardr ?/Apr/07 -
beegsyboy 10/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Eccie
Neil Mackenzie 10/Mar/07 Lead
with Tim
abbeywall ??/2007 Lead
hedgehog77 12/Sep/06 Lead
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Rebecca
bigbenb ?/Aug/06 -
Chris Plewa ?/Jul/06 -
with adam reid, simon gall
Sean Bell ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with col
Stuart Macfarlane 23/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Cabey
andymoin 23/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Jamy McFarlane
IanMcC 23/Apr/06 2nd
tompercy ??/2004 -
alan moore ??/2004 Solo
mav ?/Apr/03 -
samwelli 15/Mar/03 Lead dog
with Phil Wood
Old_Nick_S 27/Sep/02 Lead

Hard in the middle

with Robbie, Irene
Stuart Macfarlane 17/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with John G
snowboarder ?/May/02 2nd
with Mark
220bpm ?/May/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/01 Lead O/S
abbeywall ?/Aug/00 Lead
with K
Rob Davies ?/Sep/99 Lead
with Pete Hemmings
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
OC24 ?/May/98 Lead G/U

First lead but accidentally off route. Finished up left side, VS 4c?

Scottish78 16/Feb/97 Lead O/S
with Keith Falkingham
Fraser 27/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Anna
BobbyMotherwell ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
greenroom ??/1996 -
CMacD ??/1992 -
Iain Thow 09/Jun/91 Lead
with Tom Kearney
Hidden ?/Apr/90 2nd
Hidden ??/1990 -
auldscotal ??/1986 Lead O/S
mark-abz 25/Aug/84 Lead
with Bill P
Martin Bennett 02/Jun/80 -
with Faz Faraday
Bruce Kerr 04/Nov/78 Lead
with Sandy Moncur
neil3965 ??/1978 Solo
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 40
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set