UKC

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July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

15m.

Rockfax Description
A good route, if a little polished. Climb the corner of Holy, Holy, Holy for a few metres and arrange high runners. Make an exciting traverse left to reach the first bolt, climb up to the second and head straight up to the top. Belay well back on bolts. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follow the corner left of `Holy, Holy, Holy' to good gear level with the bolt. Traverse out on thin edges and then climb up to the left of the bolts.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 9 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There are no hangers on the bolts, can loop wires over studs or tie them off but neither are very good, there are a few alternative small brass placements but in its current state it's probably not the soft E1 it probably was. Could putting some nuts on the studs but leaving them loose to allow wires to be hooked over in more safety but keeping the appearance that the route is not viable to authorities be helpful?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are no hangers on the bolts, can loop wires over studs or tie them off but neither are very good, there are a few alternative small brass placements but in its current state it's probably not the soft E1 it probably was. Could putting some nuts on the studs but leaving them loose to allow wires to be hooked over in more safety but keeping the appearance that the route is not viable to authorities be helpful?

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Guidebooks for Dali's Hole

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 61
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 56
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hangover

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Clogwyn y Grochan)

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