This via ferrata takes the remote Molignon ridge just north of the Catinaccio group. The route is usually done from north to south, though it can be done in either direction. The via ferrata is hard and features some difficult down-climbing on fairly slack cable. It is worth taking a short rope if anyone in the party is nervous. Because of the remote location, it is best done in conjunction with an overnight stay in either Rifugio Alpe di Tires or Rifugio d'Antermoia. In this way the route can be combined with Sentiero Massimiliano to give a superb two day trip.
Approach - From Rifugio Alpe di Tires, take path 4 in the direction of the Val Duron until you get to a junction with path 3A. Turn right onto path 3A following the signs for 'Ferrata Laurenzi', which it informs you is 30 minutes away. Ascend the easy slab of rock with wire protection to a second sign. Continue on the 3A, leading off to the left, signed 'Passo Molignon'. At the pass a large wooden sign directs you off path 3A onto a smaller track heading east. Follow red markers which zig-zag up through scree to the start of the wire and a large board detailing the correct use of via ferrata equipment.
VF - Follow the short section of wire which leads to the Molignon ridge-line. Continue on a path along the broad ridge-line easily for 10 minutes until the route starts descending into a prominent saddle. The wire resumes here as the route first descends and then undulates along the ridge-line with excellent exposure. An easier passage follows, before another traverse section leads to the top of a steep and narrow chimney. Down climb this before following some metal handrings around an awkward step on thin wire to reach the route book hidden in a little cave.
From here, ascend on easier ground, following the red painted markings up to the summit of Molignon di Mezzo (2845m), often adorned with prayer flags. The views from the summit are spectacular on a clear day.
Descent - The descent is not obvious, particularly in bad visibility. Don't be tempted by the wide plateau leading east. Instead look for a small path, again marked with red paint, that initially leads southwest down a steep path. The route zig-zags down the mountainside through several loose gullies with intermittent wire protection. The final section of steep down-climbing is difficult with slack cable and a large step down.
This is the official end of the via ferrata though there is still some unpleasant down-climbing to be done. Follow a gully on the left (looking down) and then a successive scree spur with red markings, all the while keeping Lago Antermoia in front. Drop off the spur and enter the final exceedingly unpleasant scree gully which you follow all the way down to the large path 584 that runs east to west. Turn left heading east, passing the beautiful Lago d'Antermoia until you get to Rifugio Antermoia and a well-earned break. From Rifugio d'Antermoia, take path 580 to the east following the stream downhill. After a time the path forks. From here you can turn left onto path 578, which takes you back down into the Val Duron and ultimately back to path 532 and Rifugio Micheluzzi. Alternatively, turn right continuing on path 580, before taking path 577 down the Val de Dona back to Fontanazzo and ultimately Campitello. © Rockfax
|User||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|John1458||21 Sep, 2018||-||
with John M
with John M
|beds74||7 Sep, 2018||Lead||Solo-Day 2. Couldn’t resist this for walk out. Lovely. Zero visibility all day, this meant Italians don’t come out! Literally not a soul, beauty! Hardest part was last 50 m after Ferrata had ‘finished’ after you sign comments book...felt 5b ish so leave your kit on. Broken rock, and in wet have to pull on cables a lot to decend. 4:06m from tres hut to Val duron hut. Quotes 3-5 for Ferrata in Rushforth guide.|
|Solo-Day 2. Couldn’t resist this for walk out. Lovely. Zero visibility all day, this meant Italians don’t come out! Literally not a soul, beauty! Hardest part was last 50 m after Ferrata had ‘finished’ after you sign comments book...felt 5b ish so leave your kit on. Broken rock, and in wet have to pull on cables a lot to decend. 4:06m from tres hut to Val duron hut. Quotes 3-5 for Ferrata in Rushforth guide.|
|AKabza||13 Aug, 2018||-||
|Hidden||11 Jul, 2016||-|
|yelotango||2 Jul, 2016||Solo|