UKC

400m, 12 pitches. 12 pitches 5C oblig, walk the ridge at the top left for the peak at 3185m and right for the decent.

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User Date Notes
Martina Gola 28 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, felt adventurous. Mostly easy climbing, the bolting felt quite far apart particularly on the easier pitches. This was disconcerting as we were not sure whether we are on the route. Not many options for putting gear in between bolts. Definitely need a pair of 60m ropes, we only had pair of 50m and had to simulclimb to get to few belays. The descent was more adventurous than the climb, it felt like an never ending scramble on a very exposed ridge. Everything was loose with a minimal protection opportunities. It felt like there must be a way down soon, but you have to keep going on the ridge to just below the next peak where the descent starts. It’s never hard, just always exposed and nerve racking as everything is very loose. Big day out. Amazing views.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, felt adventurous. Mostly easy climbing, the bolting felt quite far apart particularly on the easier pitches. This was disconcerting as we were not sure whether we are on the route. Not many options for putting gear in between bolts. Definitely need a pair of 60m ropes, we only had pair of 50m and had to simulclimb to get to few belays. The descent was more adventurous than the climb, it felt like an never ending scramble on a very exposed ridge. Everything was loose with a minimal protection opportunities. It felt like there must be a way down soon, but you have to keep going on the ridge to just below the next peak where the descent starts. It’s never hard, just always exposed and nerve racking as everything is very loose. Big day out. Amazing views.

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High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
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Low 5b
Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
No.13

Grade: 5c ***
(Mont Dauphin)

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