226m, 9 pitches. Climb the slabs in the centre of the nose, follow a grassy right trending groove to a cave belay. step right under the roof to a slab with crampon scratches (difficult with tall sack) trend up and left to a large block belay. climb the ramp above to a ledge. head up on the right of the ledge and trend left onto the arete move up below the rusty peg, and climb above. follow the corner above to easier ground.

N Drasdo & C Dixon

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, HVS Adventures, The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland, The Great Gumclub Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
bigdrew 12 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Traversing the grass ledge left out of the cave is a Bad move... Good job the days were long!
with Sankey
Traversing the grass ledge left out of the cave is a Bad move... Good job the days were long!
with Sankey
Sankey 12 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Off route until the Hansom Cab stance. Started too low, so added an extra rambling lower pitch, traversed too low from underneath a roof equipped with tat (actually the cave? our "wrong" traverse was also taken and pictured here: http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/10/the-fiddlers-nose.html, which confusingly also leads to a perched boulder, as found on the Hansom Cab stance!). Looped up and left (via an ancient peg) then followed a steepening vegetated groove above via bridging until a desperate vegetated top out, gaining the Hansom Cab stance from the left after escaping to the left and re-crossing the top of the groove from the left (leaving a nut runner and QD behind to protect the 2nd). Note that the Gary Latter description (which we did not use) seems to also describe this lower traverse followed by a cleaner 40 m 5 b pitch from his same "false" Hansom Cab stance, to arrive at the proper perched boulder stance. The actual route, with the crack rather than vegetated groove variation was then followed via some decent rock with many signs of winter passage, to the spectacular ridge and summit. All a little bit more epic that it should have been, a decent topo with the routes starting point shown would be very useful!
with bigdrew
Off route until the Hansom Cab stance. Started too low, so added an extra rambling lower pitch, traversed too low from underneath a roof equipped with tat (actually the cave? our "wrong" traverse was also taken and pictured here: http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/10/the-fiddlers-nose.html, which confusingly also leads to a perched boulder, as found on the Hansom Cab stance!). Looped up and left (via an ancient peg) then followed a steepening vegetated groove above via bridging until a desperate vegetated top out, gaining the Hansom Cab stance from the left after escaping to the left and re-crossing the top of the groove from the left (leaving a nut runner and QD behind to protect the 2nd). Note that the Gary Latter description (which we did not use) seems to also describe this lower traverse followed by a cleaner 40 m 5 b pitch from his same "false" Hansom Cab stance, to arrive at the proper perched boulder stance. The actual route, with the crack rather than vegetated groove variation was then followed via some decent rock with many signs of winter passage, to the spectacular ridge and summit. All a little bit more epic that it should have been, a decent topo with the routes starting point shown would be very useful!
with bigdrew
puzzledmonkey 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with Stuart Kennedy
with Stuart Kennedy
s kennedy 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S An unplanned adventure, turned up to Ardmair late morning, midges were terrible so ended up here. Got back to Edinburgh for the sun coming up.
with James
An unplanned adventure, turned up to Ardmair late morning, midges were terrible so ended up here. Got back to Edinburgh for the sun coming up.
with James
Butler! 7 Jun, 2018 AltLd
WillHempstead 7 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S sophies first multipitch. an exercise in grass pulling. guidebook goes out of the window until you get to the cave belay. to get around the shit grass traverse (pitch 4 and 5), put in a belay below the slab on the left after you climb out of the cave, then take the slab direct at about VS to the 'hansom cab' belay above.
with Sophie
sophies first multipitch. an exercise in grass pulling. guidebook goes out of the window until you get to the cave belay. to get around the shit grass traverse (pitch 4 and 5), put in a belay below the slab on the left after you climb out of the cave, then take the slab direct at about VS to the 'hansom cab' belay above.
with Sophie
iainballantyne 7 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S A truly amazing situation! Lead everything apart from the 3rd and 2nd last pitches which Mark took. Found the route finding ok after the Cave (as long as you think of the line as a winter route!) although the grass on pitch 4 has to be some of the hardest and loosest grass pitches i have every climbed. Will and Sophie who where following us climbed a direct line up the rock from the cave to the hansom cab stance avoiding the loose grass and the 15m grassy walk, this seems to be the best option in summer.
with Mark Brims, Butler!
A truly amazing situation! Lead everything apart from the 3rd and 2nd last pitches which Mark took. Found the route finding ok after the Cave (as long as you think of the line as a winter route!) although the grass on pitch 4 has to be some of the hardest and loosest grass pitches i have every climbed. Will and Sophie who where following us climbed a direct line up the rock from the cave to the hansom cab stance avoiding the loose grass and the 15m grassy walk, this seems to be the best option in summer.
with Mark Brims, Butler!
MarkJB 7 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 6 Jun, 2018 2nd
cymjt 28 May, 2018 AltLd O/S A great day out, but not a very good route really...a bit scrappy with lots of grass. An amazing natural line and a proper summit!
A great day out, but not a very good route really...a bit scrappy with lots of grass. An amazing natural line and a proper summit!
David Kay 28 May, 2018 AltLd O/S The five pitches of vegetation were almost worth it for the final four.
The five pitches of vegetation were almost worth it for the final four.
Hidden 17 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Robertgiddy 14 May, 2018 AltLd Following the Garry Latter description all seemed to be making sense until we topped out expecting to find another pitch above us! Feel like we were on "the line" pretty well with some insitu gear/belays and crampon scratches. None of the descriptions I've read seem particularly accurate but if you go climb the obvious lines, taking any descriptions with a pinch of salt, I don't think you should go far wrong. The 5b pitch in the Garry Latter guide is well worth doing. The lower vegetated pitches still have a lot of really nice rock on them and is all totally dry atm.
with TeddyC
Following the Garry Latter description all seemed to be making sense until we topped out expecting to find another pitch above us! Feel like we were on "the line" pretty well with some insitu gear/belays and crampon scratches. None of the descriptions I've read seem particularly accurate but if you go climb the obvious lines, taking any descriptions with a pinch of salt, I don't think you should go far wrong. The 5b pitch in the Garry Latter guide is well worth doing. The lower vegetated pitches still have a lot of really nice rock on them and is all totally dry atm.
with TeddyC
Hidden 10 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
CaelanB 31 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Spent the majority of the route pretty lost, we quickly decided the guidebooks were irrelevant. In any case we climbed the cliff up the crest from bottom to top resulting in a cracking adventure day!
Spent the majority of the route pretty lost, we quickly decided the guidebooks were irrelevant. In any case we climbed the cliff up the crest from bottom to top resulting in a cracking adventure day!
Hidden 31 May, 2017 AltLd
Ewanski 17 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with Stuart M
with Stuart M
cacheson 29 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Fantastic adventure. 10 pitches, 2 ones higher up at HVS, left car at 3pm, topped out into a cloud inversion half an hour before sunset, sat on top watching the sun go down, ran back to the car for 11:45, drove to Torridon for 1:20am. Great fun
with Harry Carstairs
Fantastic adventure. 10 pitches, 2 ones higher up at HVS, left car at 3pm, topped out into a cloud inversion half an hour before sunset, sat on top watching the sun go down, ran back to the car for 11:45, drove to Torridon for 1:20am. Great fun
with Harry Carstairs
Bruce Kerr 28 May, 2016 AltLd
with Robert Durran
with Robert Durran
UncleMephisto 19 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S A botanical monster. The top pitch is a blinder, but you have to slog through the hanging gardens of Babylon to get there. As an adventure it's fantastic, but if you come expecting pitch after pitch of great climbing you've seriously misunderstood the deal. Safe to say we well and truly fell into that trap!
A botanical monster. The top pitch is a blinder, but you have to slog through the hanging gardens of Babylon to get there. As an adventure it's fantastic, but if you come expecting pitch after pitch of great climbing you've seriously misunderstood the deal. Safe to say we well and truly fell into that trap!
Samuel Wainwright 19 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S The GL and SMC route descriptions are about as much use as a chocolate tea-pot on this one. We were definitely off-route before the Hansom Cab stance but managed to get ourselves sorted. Overall it's an outstanding 3* adventure with a wild top couple of pitches but the yarding up the vertical grassy grooves on wet rock for 200m to get there was perverse. http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/the-fiddlers-nose.html
The GL and SMC route descriptions are about as much use as a chocolate tea-pot on this one. We were definitely off-route before the Hansom Cab stance but managed to get ourselves sorted. Overall it's an outstanding 3* adventure with a wild top couple of pitches but the yarding up the vertical grassy grooves on wet rock for 200m to get there was perverse. http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/the-fiddlers-nose.html
SWalls 19 Sep, 2015 AltLd
with Stevos
with Stevos
Dougbart ?Aug, 2015 AltLd
with James Youren
with James Youren
plain kitten ??, 2015 -
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Jun, 2013 2nd
stuart34 15 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S most certainly off route
with st43
most certainly off route
with st43
Steve Waters, Mynydd 29 May, 2013 AltLd Exciting ! The SMC Northern Highlands North totally misses out the 5b arete pitch from the Hansom Cab stance (we understood the Hansom Cab to be a block under a small roof at the end of the grass ledge traverse).
Exciting ! The SMC Northern Highlands North totally misses out the 5b arete pitch from the Hansom Cab stance (we understood the Hansom Cab to be a block under a small roof at the end of the grass ledge traverse).
mtempest 29 May, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2012 AltLd
jonnie3430 30 May, 2012 AltLd O/S SMC Northern Highlands North was right with description (though what is a Handsome Cab stance?) up till the end of the traverse. 2x60m pitches then ends on top. The peg at the top isn't there any more. See photo topo for route.
with Magnus, Emily
SMC Northern Highlands North was right with description (though what is a Handsome Cab stance?) up till the end of the traverse. 2x60m pitches then ends on top. The peg at the top isn't there any more. See photo topo for route.
with Magnus, Emily
Hidden 25 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 May, 2012 -
Andy Moles 24 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Better to semi-ignore descriptions, which all seem more confusing than helpful. You can reach the 5a slab pitch (p7 or 8 in the guides) anywhich way you like, and from there the line is obvious. Brilliant day out.
with Gordon, newtonmore
Better to semi-ignore descriptions, which all seem more confusing than helpful. You can reach the 5a slab pitch (p7 or 8 in the guides) anywhich way you like, and from there the line is obvious. Brilliant day out.
with Gordon, newtonmore
Hidden 16 Apr, 2012 AltLd
Tom Last 16 Apr, 2012 AltLd Drove from Cornwall. 1.5 hours sleep and straight on the hill. Took quite a while finding the initial pitches. Bill accidently did the amazing 5b arete pitch, which probably weighs in at about E2. Started getting dark by the second 5a pitch, so had no qualms about pulling on the peg. Absolutely shitting it on the final two short crack pitches for some reason. Topped out in the dark, started snowing. Got lost coming off the hill, got lost in the peat bog and finally got lost on the road! Back to the car, soaked through and very cold at 4am. Brilliant adventure. 19 hours on the hill immediately following a 12 hour drive. Quite tired. The pitch descriptions in the SMC guide are wildly inaccurate. It's not possible to get to the cave belay in two pitches - three minimum. The top two pitches are more like 45m, not 25. The last described pitch finishes in the middle of nowhere, with more pushy and absurdly exposed climbing to come. There then follows about 150m of scrambling to the summit. Worth taking a compass and noting a bearing for the descent in the event you get benighted. Pretty major undertaking for your average HVS climber and in the middle of bloody nowhere - well good!
Drove from Cornwall. 1.5 hours sleep and straight on the hill. Took quite a while finding the initial pitches. Bill accidently did the amazing 5b arete pitch, which probably weighs in at about E2. Started getting dark by the second 5a pitch, so had no qualms about pulling on the peg. Absolutely shitting it on the final two short crack pitches for some reason. Topped out in the dark, started snowing. Got lost coming off the hill, got lost in the peat bog and finally got lost on the road! Back to the car, soaked through and very cold at 4am. Brilliant adventure. 19 hours on the hill immediately following a 12 hour drive. Quite tired. The pitch descriptions in the SMC guide are wildly inaccurate. It's not possible to get to the cave belay in two pitches - three minimum. The top two pitches are more like 45m, not 25. The last described pitch finishes in the middle of nowhere, with more pushy and absurdly exposed climbing to come. There then follows about 150m of scrambling to the summit. Worth taking a compass and noting a bearing for the descent in the event you get benighted. Pretty major undertaking for your average HVS climber and in the middle of bloody nowhere - well good!
peter.herd 27 Mar, 2012 AltLd Bluebird march day and sporting some lovely 80's lycra. Description hazy until pitches 7-9. I definitely wasn't quietly whimpering about running out severe slabs.. Awesome day and first mountain route!
with Rory Brown
Bluebird march day and sporting some lovely 80's lycra. Description hazy until pitches 7-9. I definitely wasn't quietly whimpering about running out severe slabs.. Awesome day and first mountain route!
with Rory Brown
Hidden 27 Mar, 2012 AltLd
Patzl ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Patzl ??, 2012 -
Hidden 21 Jun, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 1 May, 2011 AltLd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 1 May, 2011 AltLd
with Chris Rees
with Chris Rees
Hidden ??, 2011 -
timmy-ts 4 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Guide book descriptions are dodgy.
Guide book descriptions are dodgy.
cat22 30 May, 2009 2nd O/S Interesting route! 2* climbing but 4* situations. Neither guidebook we have was completely accurate but we found our way ok. SMC selected guide misses the 5b crux pitch included in Gary Latter's guide. Gary Latter's guide has incorrect pitch lengths for the final 3 pitches.
Interesting route! 2* climbing but 4* situations. Neither guidebook we have was completely accurate but we found our way ok. SMC selected guide misses the 5b crux pitch included in Gary Latter's guide. Gary Latter's guide has incorrect pitch lengths for the final 3 pitches.
DaveHK 19 Apr, 2009 AltLd
Captain Solo 19 Apr, 2009 AltLd
with DaveHK
with DaveHK
cem 20 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S Like others, we got a bit lost in places. Walked out in the dark
with GrahamD
Like others, we got a bit lost in places. Walked out in the dark
with GrahamD
gordon henderson 7 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Ken and Lee
with Ken and Lee
TrollJester ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Bruce A Strachan
with Bruce A Strachan
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 23 Apr, 2005 AltLd O/S
sgl 23 Apr, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
with Konnie
samwelli 6 Sep, 2004 AltLd
with Reuben Brown
with Reuben Brown
PennyL 20 Apr, 2003 AltLd
with Jon Ascroft
with Jon Ascroft
mattierd 19 Apr, 2003 -
Colin Mcgregor 23 Jun, 2001 AltLd
with John Kay
with John Kay
kylo-342 ?Jun, 2001 AltLd O/S excellent route - although tough if HVS is your limit.
excellent route - although tough if HVS is your limit.
Darragh ??, 2000 AltLd
with John W.
with John W.
el diablo 26 Jun, 1999 AltLd
pingora 27 May, 1994 AltLd
with Nick
with Nick
Hidden 15 Apr, 1992 AltLd
brianrunner ?May, 1990 AltLd Great positions. Got a bit lost lower down but the upper section is good. well worth doing but not in the same class as the traditional classics like say centurion, the pause, unicorn, big top .
with gordon innes
Great positions. Got a bit lost lower down but the upper section is good. well worth doing but not in the same class as the traditional classics like say centurion, the pause, unicorn, big top .
with gordon innes
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 16
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set