226m, 9 pitches. Climb the slabs in the centre of the nose, follow a grassy right trending groove to a cave belay. step right under the roof to a slab with crampon scratches (difficult with tall sack) trend up and left to a large block belay. climb the ramp above to a ledge. head up on the right of the ledge and trend left onto the arete move up below the rusty peg, and climb above. follow the corner above to easier ground.

N Drasdo & C Dixon

Ticklists: Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, HVS Adventures, The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland, The Great Gumclub Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 10/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul AltLd
Wicamoi 04/Jul AltLd O/S

Fabulous day out. We did it without a guidebook - due to incompetence rather than the spirit of adventure - but we took this discovery in good humour and pressed on fearlessly. Which turned out to be the right spirit, and I think having no guide except the desire to follow our noses and The Nose is probably a more efficient way to climb it than trying to follow a confusing description. Quite a lot of grass early on, but still some decent climbing, then after two very long pitches (about 125 m) we were at continuous good rock till the top. Fairly straightforward, but slippy and challenging when the lichen got wet in the showers. I did it without my helmet as I forgot to strap it on, and it fell off on the first pitch - the communication required to get it back seemed likely to be so irritating that I just pressed on. Stunning views from the top of course. However much one knows Coigach it always has some new glory of light to reveal. Almost complete circular rainbow at one point. Then back to Will's for venison steaks and hangovers. Scottish mountaineering at its finest!

with Will
Hidden 31/May AltLd O/S
CaelanB 31/May AltLd O/S

Spent the majority of the route pretty lost, we quickly decided the guidebooks were irrelevant. In any case we climbed the cliff up the crest from bottom to top resulting in a cracking adventure day!

Hidden 31/May AltLd
Ewanski 17/Jun/16 AltLd
with Stuart M
cacheson 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Fantastic adventure. 10 pitches, 2 ones higher up at HVS, left car at 3pm, topped out into a cloud inversion half an hour before sunset, sat on top watching the sun go down, ran back to the car for 11:45, drove to Torridon for 1:20am. Great fun

with Harry Carstairs
Bruce Kerr 28/May/16 AltLd
with Robert Durran
UncleMephisto 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

A botanical monster. The top pitch is a blinder, but you have to slog through the hanging gardens of Babylon to get there. As an adventure it's fantastic, but if you come expecting pitch after pitch of great climbing you've seriously misunderstood the deal. Safe to say we well and truly fell into that trap!

Hidden 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
SWalls 19/Sep/15 AltLd
Dougbart ?/Aug/15 AltLd
with James Youren
plain kitten ??/2015 -
alibrightman 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/13 2nd
stuart34 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S

most certainly off route

Steve Waters, Mynydd 29/May/13 AltLd

Exciting ! The SMC Northern Highlands North totally misses out the 5b arete pitch from the Hansom Cab stance (we understood the Hansom Cab to be a block under a small roof at the end of the grass ledge traverse).

mtempest 29/May/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd
jonnie3430 30/May/12 AltLd O/S

SMC Northern Highlands North was right with description (though what is a Handsome Cab stance?) up till the end of the traverse. 2x60m pitches then ends on top. The peg at the top isn't there any more. See photo topo for route.

with Magnus, Emily
Hidden 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/May/12 -
Andy Moles 24/May/12 AltLd O/S

Better to semi-ignore descriptions, which all seem more confusing than helpful. You can reach the 5a slab pitch (p7 or 8 in the guides) anywhich way you like, and from there the line is obvious. Brilliant day out.

with Gordon, Kev
Hidden 16/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 16/Apr/12 AltLd
peter.herd 27/Mar/12 AltLd

Bluebird march day and sporting some lovely 80's lycra. Description hazy until pitches 7-9. I definitely wasn't quietly whimpering about running out severe slabs.. Awesome day and first mountain route!

with Rory Brown
Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd
Patzl ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
Hidden 21/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 01/May/11 AltLd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 01/May/11 AltLd
with Chris Rees
Hidden ??/2011 -
timmy-ts 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Guide book descriptions are dodgy.

cat22 30/May/09 2nd O/S

Interesting route! 2* climbing but 4* situations. Neither guidebook we have was completely accurate but we found our way ok. SMC selected guide misses the 5b crux pitch included in Gary Latter's guide. Gary Latter's guide has incorrect pitch lengths for the final 3 pitches.

with Mike
Captain Solo 19/Apr/09 AltLd
with Dave
cem 20/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Like others, we got a bit lost in places. Walked out in the dark

gordon henderson 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Ken and Lee
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Bruce A Strachan
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden 23/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
sgl 23/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
samwelli 06/Sep/04 AltLd
with Reuben Brown
PenJD 20/Apr/03 AltLd
with Jon Ascroft
Colin Mcgregor 23/Jun/01 AltLd
with John Kay
kp64zl ?/Jun/01 AltLd O/S

excellent route - although tough if HVS is your limit.

Darragh ??/2000 AltLd
with John W.
el diablo 26/Jun/99 AltLd
pingora 27/May/94 AltLd
with Nick
Hidden 15/Apr/92 AltLd
brianrunner ?/May/90 AltLd

Great positions. Got a bit lost lower down but the upper section is good. well worth doing but not in the same class as the traditional classics like say centurion, the pause, unicorn, big top .

with gordon innes
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