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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Cuthbert | 15 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: A route not to be underestimated, especially since the Vratsa guidebook is less than clear about what the difficulties entail. In short, the approach is pretty awful: loose scree and jungle. 60 mins, and not 30mins as stated in the guidebook. The route is also exposed to rock fall from other parties, and we were peppered by rock all day (save the last 2 pitches) by Bulgarian parties for whom such things - and the quality of their rope management - seemed to be of little concern. In many places the fixed pitons are also of poor quality and should not be relied open. In this regard, I'm not sure the final pitch can be justified. The first pro consists of a set of ancient rivets that look like they are 'body-weight' only (good cam 2 on the left after these), whilst the ground above is a trial of will over good sense. Not to be attempted unless one enjoys the full 'trad' experience! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A route not to be underestimated, especially since the Vratsa guidebook is less than clear about what the difficulties entail. In short, the approach is pretty awful: loose scree and jungle. 60 mins, and not 30mins as stated in the guidebook. The route is also exposed to rock fall from other parties, and we were peppered by rock all day (save the last 2 pitches) by Bulgarian parties for whom such things - and the quality of their rope management - seemed to be of little concern. In many places the fixed pitons are also of poor quality and should not be relied open. In this regard, I'm not sure the final pitch can be justified. The first pro consists of a set of ancient rivets that look like they are 'body-weight' only (good cam 2 on the left after these), whilst the ground above is a trial of will over good sense. Not to be attempted unless one enjoys the full 'trad' experience! |
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Route of Interest
Vinkelite
Grade: VI+ ***
(Vratsa)