600m. The longest climb in the Cogne Valley at 600 meters; grade III commitment and WI 4+; 7 pitches; beware of avalanche conditions as this is a primary avalanche shute.
An hour for the approach.

Gian Carlo Grassi, N. Margaira and Mauro Rossi 20/Dec/1985

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Marti999 18 Feb Lead O/S Did up to 5th ice pitch and the end of the belays. 10 abs to get down. Melting fast in the mild air.
Did up to 5th ice pitch and the end of the belays. 10 abs to get down. Melting fast in the mild air.
Hidden 8 Feb AltLd O/S
robgixer 26 Jan Lead Great condition, climbed to the end of difficulties, lots of brilliant varied pitches on this with great atmosphere
Great condition, climbed to the end of difficulties, lots of brilliant varied pitches on this with great atmosphere
CharleyAnn 26 Jan 2nd
Andre Clarke 23 Jan AltLd O/S Epic route. Fantastic. Been wanting to do this route for years but culdn't prev do it due to avalanche risk. Crux pitch felt like WI5 in middle of route.
Epic route. Fantastic. Been wanting to do this route for years but culdn't prev do it due to avalanche risk. Crux pitch felt like WI5 in middle of route.
Tommy Harris 22 Jan AltLd O/S What a route.. Good alpine day out with lots of lovely pitches, First few pitches were very hooked out.. Anchors were being replaced by local guides so we were first to use them for descent. all roughly 55-60m apart.
What a route.. Good alpine day out with lots of lovely pitches, First few pitches were very hooked out.. Anchors were being replaced by local guides so we were first to use them for descent. all roughly 55-60m apart.
jackob 21 Jan AltLd Wow what a day what an adventure all The way up!
Wow what a day what an adventure all The way up!
wheelsucker 21 Jan AltLd O/S Did the full route for the proper tick. The ice was very cold (-12 at the car park in Lillaz) so the ice was very very brittle and made for difficult climbing. There is some brilliant and atmospheric climbing further up the gully. We continued past the recommended descent at 2550m and just followed the ice. There is quite a bit of easy ground between the ice falls higher up the gully but well worth it. There is a 85m ice fall 2/3 of the way up which would be a classic in its own right. We climbed just under 1000m of vertical height gain and it was worth it for the sheer adventure. Grade wise it felt like very hard Scottish 5 or possibly 6 with loads of 4.
with jackob
Did the full route for the proper tick. The ice was very cold (-12 at the car park in Lillaz) so the ice was very very brittle and made for difficult climbing. There is some brilliant and atmospheric climbing further up the gully. We continued past the recommended descent at 2550m and just followed the ice. There is quite a bit of easy ground between the ice falls higher up the gully but well worth it. There is a 85m ice fall 2/3 of the way up which would be a classic in its own right. We climbed just under 1000m of vertical height gain and it was worth it for the sheer adventure. Grade wise it felt like very hard Scottish 5 or possibly 6 with loads of 4.
with jackob
piken 8 Jan -
with Ian Johnson
with Ian Johnson
Hidden 26 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
Tommy_shaw 4 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Feb, 2017 AltLd
dmorgan27 19 Feb, 2017 AltLd Alex dropped an axe. Some steep pitches done by Dan, one easy pitch for me.
with 19Dan82
Alex dropped an axe. Some steep pitches done by Dan, one easy pitch for me.
with 19Dan82
gingernick 19 Feb, 2017 AltLd Tremendous climbing
with 19Dan82, dmorgan27, Alex Duckett, Dean Jones
Tremendous climbing
with 19Dan82, dmorgan27, Alex Duckett, Dean Jones
Hidden 19 Feb, 2017 Lead
Tim Rodgers 18 Feb, 2017 AltLd
Ewanski 2 Feb, 2017 AltLd great condition, bit wet at the bottom
with Stuart M
great condition, bit wet at the bottom
with Stuart M
Hidden 1 Feb, 2017 -
Matt Reed 31 Jan, 2017 2nd Al led P1, Simon p2. bailed following big avalanche next door and warming conditions
with Al peel, Simon Fenna
Al led P1, Simon p2. bailed following big avalanche next door and warming conditions
with Al peel, Simon Fenna
janegallwey 28 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S Didn't lead the harder pitches
Didn't lead the harder pitches
niallsash 26 Jan, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 25 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
Piglet69 24 Jan, 2017 2nd Walked off .
Walked off .
Hidden 7 Jan, 2017 AltLd
Manc88 27 Feb, 2016 2nd O/S
clmacdonald 20 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
ChrisDavis 20 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Jack S
with Jack S
tskelhon 20 Feb, 2015 AltLd
stuart34 12 Feb, 2015 Lead dnf first 2 pitches
with matt robinsom
first 2 pitches
with matt robinsom
Hidden 10 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
manxclare 4 Feb, 2015 2nd
John sealey 4 Feb, 2015 Lead
Hidden ?Feb, 2015 -
murray ?Feb, 2015 AltLd
with Neil, Sam
with Neil, Sam
Hidden 28 Jan, 2015 AltLd
nickdonohue 25 Jan, 2015 AltLd First climb of the year!
with Mark McCarthy
First climb of the year!
with Mark McCarthy
Andy Lagan 18 Feb, 2014 2nd
maybe_si 18 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S
wi11 8 Jan, 2014 AltLd dnf Did 350m? Ice good for axes, not so good for screws
with Dan Bergo
Did 350m? Ice good for axes, not so good for screws
with Dan Bergo
TeeBee 7 Jan, 2014 AltLd dnf Retreated at c. halfway point - warming up. Avalanched on way down. Tom engulfed on rope but endured unharmed.
with Tom
Retreated at c. halfway point - warming up. Avalanched on way down. Tom engulfed on rope but endured unharmed.
with Tom
Misha 23 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Nicolas
with Nicolas
Hidden 23 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
Graeme Barr 10 Mar, 2013 AltLd
with Neil
with Neil
Glyn 2 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S Got right to the top this time, 6 pitches, everyone was 60m+! Slight too close for comfort avalanche encounter on the way down
with Tom Skelhon
Got right to the top this time, 6 pitches, everyone was 60m+! Slight too close for comfort avalanche encounter on the way down
with Tom Skelhon
pezzerrr 1 Mar, 2013 Lead dnf Quick dabble up the first pitch.
Quick dabble up the first pitch.
Hidden ?Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
Glyn 25 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S First two pitches at end of the day, definitely coming back next couple of pitches look amazing!
with Tom Skelhon
First two pitches at end of the day, definitely coming back next couple of pitches look amazing!
with Tom Skelhon
tskelhon ?Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Amazing! Got avalanched on descent
with glyn hudson
Amazing! Got avalanched on descent
with glyn hudson
BlackheathDiggs ?Feb, 2013 2nd
Tim Bateman 15 Jan, 2013 Lead
with Jamie, George Bird
with Jamie, George Bird
Colin Scotchford 29 Feb, 2012 AltLd
Chubbard 13 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
with C Godfrey
with C Godfrey
alpinestar_no1 20 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S We only did the first 2 pitches as it was getting late in the day, and I heard that the first 2 pitches are the best anyway. 2 superb pitches of solid WI4 :) Exelent!
with Mads Granelin
We only did the first 2 pitches as it was getting late in the day, and I heard that the first 2 pitches are the best anyway. 2 superb pitches of solid WI4 :) Exelent!
with Mads Granelin
Hidden 20 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Jan, 2012 2nd O/S
Charlie Evans 11 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S We climbed about 2/3 of the route
with Chris, Mike
We climbed about 2/3 of the route
with Chris, Mike
Hidden 19 Feb, 2011 AltLd
Martin Bennett 4 Feb, 2011 -
with Simno, Ali
with Simno, Ali
John Carney ?Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
with Brooke Borden, David Linton
with Brooke Borden, David Linton
Andrew Sloan 22 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S Scary runout at top of pitch 2.
with Steve Grove
Scary runout at top of pitch 2.
with Steve Grove
Hidden 15 Feb, 2008 2nd
Chad123 10 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S Warm up route in Cogne (for Repentance) - but even better route overall -lots of interesting pitches and a good length. (though take some water - 7 pitches plus abseils is thirsty work and we had none!)
with James Humble
Warm up route in Cogne (for Repentance) - but even better route overall -lots of interesting pitches and a good length. (though take some water - 7 pitches plus abseils is thirsty work and we had none!)
with James Humble
brockers ?Feb, 2008 -
with CarlZ
with CarlZ
Hidden 26 Jan, 2008 AltLd
Tobias at Home ??, 2008 -
Yyonnx 13 Feb, 2005 Lead Lead up to top of third pitch, Pep went to anchor at top of fourth and then we rapped off as it was almost dark.
with Pepijn
Lead up to top of third pitch, Pep went to anchor at top of fourth and then we rapped off as it was almost dark.
with Pepijn
Hidden 22 Jan, 2005 Lead O/S
David Horwood ?Feb, 2001 -
MikePycroft 17 Jan, 1995 AltLd
steveb2006 17 Jan, 1995 AltLd dnf Most of it - retreated after 6 or 7 pitches
Most of it - retreated after 6 or 7 pitches
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Voting
High WI-5
Mid WI-5
Low WI-5
High WI-4+
Mid WI-4+
Low WI-4+
High WI-4
Mid WI-4
Low WI-4
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set