UKC

20m. This is the most popular variation of the original line, escaping right on easy ledges when the climbing gets intense up the final crack on the left. Lower off via the chains. Graded as per general consensus.

P Hunter 1981.

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User Date Notes
CharlieBanford 31 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: With the addition of sedge warbler direct (implying sedge warbler escapes right) this climb should be downgraded to E1 5b as it surely isnt E2 to escape right but going straight up doesnt look 5b at all. I recon it works better to have two climbs, an E1 and an E3?
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βeta: With the addition of sedge warbler direct (implying sedge warbler escapes right) this climb should be downgraded to E1 5b as it surely isnt E2 to escape right but going straight up doesnt look 5b at all. I recon it works better to have two climbs, an E1 and an E3?
Conormcc1991 18 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Went right at the top onto the ledge. Seems to be a running theme, dont think direct up that little crack with little holds can be 5b. Good climb though.
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βeta: Went right at the top onto the ledge. Seems to be a running theme, dont think direct up that little crack with little holds can be 5b. Good climb though.
Adam Russell 5 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Would say tech 6a if you stay true to the wall cracks onto the big ledge, without detouring to the right. Have holds fallen off?
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βeta: Would say tech 6a if you stay true to the wall cracks onto the big ledge, without detouring to the right. Have holds fallen off?
iainJ 17 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There's some brand new looking bolts (dust still on the ledge) at the big ledge, don't have to do the chossy top wall any more.
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βeta: There's some brand new looking bolts (dust still on the ledge) at the big ledge, don't have to do the chossy top wall any more.
David Cooper 25 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Direct top out is worryingly chossy
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βeta: Direct top out is worryingly chossy

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 45
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Window Traverse

Grade: E1 4c ***
(Graham Brown House (GBH))

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