Rockfax Description
A tough route with a steep crux.
1) 20m. Start beneath the slab capped by a shield-like flake. Climb direct to the flake.
2) 20m. Pull onto the wall and climb up and left to a steep crack which leads to a belay.
3) 4a, 12m. Move left to below the steep rib, blast up this and gain the ledge on the right.
3a) HVS 5b, 11m. Climb straight up from the belay to a weakness in the roof that leads out left to the slab and onto the same belay. As good as the original but harder.
4) 18m. Follow the corner above to the top. Belay well back. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 1 is a staightforward romp up the slab on big holds. Pitch 2 cuddles its way up the big flake then steps onto the wall and moves up to a belay below the overhang. Pitch 3 - either hand traverse (harder) or foot traverse (easier) leftwards for about 10m before climbing the unlikely looking rib in a photogenic position, savouring the exposure. Belay on the R.
DON'T scuttle round the corner ofthe overhang, avoiding the rib, and climb the easy corners - this isn't Slack whatever your leader pretends!
Pitch 4 is a short crack and a following chimney/crack to the top.
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Solos , BSR multipitch routes , No you're a punter
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Paulghodgson | 22 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Led P1 and p4. Initially thrown by the lack of protection on P1 due to inexperience in leading. However soon got into the swing of things. Went for the wider crack at top of P2 which is very bridgeable. The corner crack of p4 is awesome. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Led P1 and p4. Initially thrown by the lack of protection on P1 due to inexperience in leading. However soon got into the swing of things. Went for the wider crack at top of P2 which is very bridgeable. The corner crack of p4 is awesome. |
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bethgw | 7 Nov, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: My first ever trad climb and/or multipitch! Great fun to be seconding, think leading would have been slightly terrifying, as there was very little protection | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: My first ever trad climb and/or multipitch! Great fun to be seconding, think leading would have been slightly terrifying, as there was very little protection |
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skinne | 22 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Beware shared belay above P3. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Beware shared belay above P3. |
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Grade: S ***
(Clogwyn y Ddysgl)