460m, 11 pitches. More a long trad route than a big wall route. E1,5B according to Duncan Critchley. Good to link up with Moratorium whose finish lands you almost at the start of the East Buttress.

Frank Sacherer FFA July 1964 01/Jun/1953

Ticklists: Road to the Nose - SuperTopo.

CMoore 27/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with Scott
Tom.Priestley 24/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Cool route, Climbing perhaps not as good as some of the other big valley routes but the position is awesome. Lead P2, P4+5 together, P7+8 together, P10, P12.

with Shaun
Scott Quinn 21/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Dates a guess - same day as the fatal rock fall strange to be above it all, the route its self isn't superb

with Chris
ben.phillips 26/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Great route - second time up el Cap in a week (this way was a lot quicker)

Hidden 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

In 11 pitches and approx 8 hours. Went wrong way on the last 5.9 pitch but it turned out to be a happy accident as we cut a corner off. Quite polished with a fair bit of loose and not that classic. Michael a bit put off by Felix memorial on 1st pitch.

DavidEvans 23/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led 2,4,6,8,10,12

with Jules Vulliamy
Hidden 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
ferdia 19/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 19/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with Ferdia
Ailish Ni Grianan ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 05/May/15 AltLd O/S
alooker 13/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Ed
mrteale 13/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with alook
Hidden 01/Oct/14 AltLd
Ahab ?/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
guy757 30/Sep/14 -
Neil Adams 13/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Ross B
MonkeyDawson ?/May/13 Lead
with Simon Smith
jcw ??/2013 -
PeteH 13/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Most of the 5.9 is harder than the 5.10b! Fantastic varied climbing, although route-finding a little trickier than expected if you're first on the crag...

khawk 08/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with WW
Hidden 01/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
clipskipper 01/Oct/12 AltLd
Adam Booth 28/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

6hr 45 (including 1hr 30 on a spicy 'alternative' pitch halfway up)... Amazing route!

fennerz 28/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Amazing! Up at 4am, worth it to be first team on route. Just under 7hrs. Th 'mental' crux pitch was probably the best pitch I've ever done!

tuukka 16/Sep/12 AltLd

Maija slipped once

with Maija
Hidden 29/May/12 AltLd
farmus21 13/Oct/11 AltLd
with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 13/Oct/11 AltLd
with james G
munki1971 29/Sep/11 2nd

With Jay Anderson. Amazing climb. Long hot day and last team in a group of five. Very dehydrated by the time we returned to camp.

stuart34 20/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Kim Ladiges
Hidden 06/Sep/11 Lead
peppermill ?/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Simon Bennett
Andy Clarke 10/Oct/10 AltLd

A fantastic day, which certainly lived up to my expectations. Leading the long and lonely 'psycho crux' pitch high on the headwall is one of my most memorable climbing experiences so far. Took a small fall on the 5.9 chimney starting pitch - my fault for not dangling my rucksac from my harness. Pretty awkward wearing it. We were equipped to spend a night out on top, but managed to hitch a ride with a valley regular hiking down in the dark. Best route of the trip - but we only just got on it in time: saw notices warning of dangerous rockfall the day after.

with Tim
markalmack 23/Sep/10 AltLd rpt
with Eric Perlman
Barry Kerslake 10/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Luke F
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd
Geraldine Roso 26/Jul/10 AltLd
Geraldine Roso 26/Jul/10 AltLd
Julesthe1st 07/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Great to be actually climbing on the famous captain (albeit in the side). Quite busy but from what I remember a great day of interesting climbing.

with Simon
simon kimber ?/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

got a late start hoping to miss rush hour, ended up waiting soo long at every belay. worth it though

with Jules
AdrianP 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Slightly overrated. Left camp 4 in the dark and still we were the 4th team to start...

with Olli
Hidden 03/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 -
alex_arthur 04/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 -
al99 26/May/09 AltLd dog

Popped on the 10b move!

Hidden 26/May/09 AltLd dog
alasdair19 ??/2009 AltLd dnf
nickcanute ?/Oct/08 AltLd
with tim parkinson
C coldwell-storry ?/Sep/08 AltLd
with Neil Chelton
markalmack ?/Sep/08 AltLd dog

popped on the 10b move off the belay.

hiyaneil ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Callum
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Christian Beck ??/2007 AltLd

Good day route , alone on the wall! , but super hot and really dehydrated by the end of it.. fixed ab ropes on the ledges descent helped alot:)

Hidden 15/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
AnnaBacklund ?/Nov/05 2nd
French Erick ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
Dave Kerr ?/Oct/05 AltLd
with Erick Baillot
Hidden ?/Oct/05 -
datoon 30/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
with DR
Hidden 26/Sep/04 AltLd
akhughes ?/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
pete johnson ?/May/04 AltLd
pauldrew ?/May/04 AltLd

Great route even 2nd time around.

Hidden ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2001 AltLd
Simonfarfaraway ?/Jul/00 AltLd

Brilliant route, the cruz first pitch wakes you up but can be frenched! The traverse cross head wall pitch particularly memorable. Off width pitch good, take a friend 5 or its would be scary

with Steve Hastings
dan gibson ?/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden ?/Aug/97 -
Derek Ryden ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
with Val Hammel
Roget 27/Sep/94 AltLd O/S
with baccy
Mike Owen 20/Nov/93 AltLd O/S
with Elaine Owen
pauldrew ?/May/92 AltLd
with Ian Lewis
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 12/Sep/87 AltLd O/S
with Jeff ?
Chris Craggs 17/Oct/81 AltLd

6.5 hours - good day. Fixed it so Bob led the offwidth - E1 5b

with American Bob
duncan ?/Sep/81 AltLd O/S
with Simon Reed
Mark Kemball 17/Jul/81 AltLd
with Russ Eyles
petemeads ?/Oct/75 AltLd

The famous pitch is excellent, the whole route is not too hard and makes a good day out. And you get to find where the rappel descent route goes.

with Mick Brady
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