460m, 11 pitches. More a long trad route than a big wall route. E1,5B according to Duncan Critchley. Good to link up with Moratorium whose finish lands you almost at the start of the East Buttress.

Frank Sacherer FFA July 1964 01/Jun/1953

Ticklists

Road to the Nose - SuperTopo, Yosemite Little Walls For Mortals

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Jamie Skelton 30 Sep AltLd O/S
with Matthew Glenn, Jack Morris
with Matthew Glenn, Jack Morris
Luis SD 12 Jun AltLd mostly lead. Easy “mental crux"
mostly lead. Easy “mental crux"
ned_85 28 Oct, 2018 AltLd
with Daniel Chafetz
with Daniel Chafetz
Senna 28 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Led all pitches
Led all pitches
SamStrong93 28 Oct, 2018 AltLd
robertmichaellovell 21 Oct, 2018 AltLd
with Steve K
with Steve K
Hidden 10 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 6 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Paul Collins 30 Sep, 2018 AltLd
with Martin
with Martin
Theeni 27 Sep, 2018 AltLd 12 hours car to car. A big day out and I’d feel cheated at E1, 5b.
with Will McEvoy
12 hours car to car. A big day out and I’d feel cheated at E1, 5b.
with Will McEvoy
lukegorman 26 Sep, 2018 AltLd took 4x falls on the crux 5.10b pitch, falling past the belay twice. Got it in the end no worries. Swinging pitches rock paper scissors as usual. awesome
took 4x falls on the crux 5.10b pitch, falling past the belay twice. Got it in the end no worries. Swinging pitches rock paper scissors as usual. awesome
JoeCoxson 26 Sep, 2018 AltLd G/U What a day. Started early, was on the first pitch at 6:30, took 7 1/2 hours on route, descent was actually really simple (in the light). About 11 hours round trip, Luke had the crux 10b, took a couple of goes but it was alright in the end, just thin on the feet. Managed the crux onsight with the rucksack, then got spat off the 5.9 offwidth into a big fall on P9; was annoyed to find a hidden crack on the second go. Was down in time to see the premier of Honnold’s Freesolo movie.
What a day. Started early, was on the first pitch at 6:30, took 7 1/2 hours on route, descent was actually really simple (in the light). About 11 hours round trip, Luke had the crux 10b, took a couple of goes but it was alright in the end, just thin on the feet. Managed the crux onsight with the rucksack, then got spat off the 5.9 offwidth into a big fall on P9; was annoyed to find a hidden crack on the second go. Was down in time to see the premier of Honnold’s Freesolo movie.
conorjclarke ?Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Kelly Weeks
with Kelly Weeks
Ellis Bird 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
CMoore 27 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Tom.Priestley 24 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Cool route, Climbing perhaps not as good as some of the other big valley routes but the position is awesome. Lead P2, P4+5 together, P7+8 together, P10, P12.
with Shaun
Cool route, Climbing perhaps not as good as some of the other big valley routes but the position is awesome. Lead P2, P4+5 together, P7+8 together, P10, P12.
with Shaun
Scott Quinn 21 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Dates a guess - same day as the fatal rock fall strange to be above it all, the route its self isn't superb
with CMoore
Dates a guess - same day as the fatal rock fall strange to be above it all, the route its self isn't superb
with CMoore
ben.phillips 26 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Great route - second time up el Cap in a week (this way was a lot quicker)
Great route - second time up el Cap in a week (this way was a lot quicker)
Hidden 5 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 5 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S In 11 pitches and approx 8 hours. Went wrong way on the last 5.9 pitch but it turned out to be a happy accident as we cut a corner off. Quite polished with a fair bit of loose and not that classic. Michael a bit put off by Felix memorial on 1st pitch.
In 11 pitches and approx 8 hours. Went wrong way on the last 5.9 pitch but it turned out to be a happy accident as we cut a corner off. Quite polished with a fair bit of loose and not that classic. Michael a bit put off by Felix memorial on 1st pitch.
DavidEvans 23 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Led 2,4,6,8,10,12
with Jules Vulliamy
Led 2,4,6,8,10,12
with Jules Vulliamy
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
ferdia 19 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 19 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
with ferdia
with ferdia
Ailish Ni Grianan ?Jun, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 5 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
alooker 13 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
with mrteale
with mrteale
mrteale 13 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
with alooker
with alooker
Hidden 1 Oct, 2014 AltLd
Ahab ?Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Sep, 2014 -
Neil Adams 13 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
MonkeyDawson ?May, 2013 Lead
with Simon Smith
with Simon Smith
jcw ??, 2013 -
PeteH 13 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S Most of the 5.9 is harder than the 5.10b! Fantastic varied climbing, although route-finding a little trickier than expected if you're first on the crag...
Most of the 5.9 is harder than the 5.10b! Fantastic varied climbing, although route-finding a little trickier than expected if you're first on the crag...
khawk 8 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
with WW
with WW
Hidden 1 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
clipskipper 1 Oct, 2012 AltLd
Adam Booth 28 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S 6hr 45 (including 1hr 30 on a spicy 'alternative' pitch halfway up)... Amazing route!
with fennerz
6hr 45 (including 1hr 30 on a spicy 'alternative' pitch halfway up)... Amazing route!
with fennerz
fennerz 28 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Amazing! Up at 4am, worth it to be first team on route. Just under 7hrs. Th 'mental' crux pitch was probably the best pitch I've ever done!
Amazing! Up at 4am, worth it to be first team on route. Just under 7hrs. Th 'mental' crux pitch was probably the best pitch I've ever done!
Hidden 16 Sep, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 29 May, 2012 AltLd
farmus21 13 Oct, 2011 AltLd
with Sam Radcliffe
with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 13 Oct, 2011 AltLd
with james G
with james G
munki1971 29 Sep, 2011 2nd With Jay Anderson. Amazing climb. Long hot day and last team in a group of five. Very dehydrated by the time we returned to camp.
With Jay Anderson. Amazing climb. Long hot day and last team in a group of five. Very dehydrated by the time we returned to camp.
stuart34 20 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Kim Ladiges
with Kim Ladiges
Hidden 6 Sep, 2011 Lead
peppermill ?Sep, 2011 2nd O/S
with Simon Bennett
with Simon Bennett
Andy Clarke 10 Oct, 2010 AltLd A fantastic day, which certainly lived up to my expectations. Leading the long and lonely 'psycho crux' pitch high on the headwall is one of my most memorable climbing experiences so far. Took a small fall on the 5.9 chimney starting pitch - my fault for not dangling my rucksac from my harness. Pretty awkward wearing it. We were equipped to spend a night out on top, but managed to hitch a ride with a valley regular hiking down in the dark. Best route of the trip - but we only just got on it in time: saw notices warning of dangerous rockfall the day after.
with Tim
A fantastic day, which certainly lived up to my expectations. Leading the long and lonely 'psycho crux' pitch high on the headwall is one of my most memorable climbing experiences so far. Took a small fall on the 5.9 chimney starting pitch - my fault for not dangling my rucksac from my harness. Pretty awkward wearing it. We were equipped to spend a night out on top, but managed to hitch a ride with a valley regular hiking down in the dark. Best route of the trip - but we only just got on it in time: saw notices warning of dangerous rockfall the day after.
with Tim
markalmack 23 Sep, 2010 AltLd rpt
with Eric Perlman
with Eric Perlman
Barry Kerslake 10 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
with Luke F
with Luke F
The Jazz Butcher ?Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Bern
with Bern
Hidden ?Sep, 2010 AltLd
Geraldine Roso 26 Jul, 2010 AltLd
Geraldine Roso 26 Jul, 2010 AltLd
Julesthe1st 7 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S Great to be actually climbing on the famous captain (albeit in the side). Quite busy but from what I remember a great day of interesting climbing.
with Simon Kimber
Great to be actually climbing on the famous captain (albeit in the side). Quite busy but from what I remember a great day of interesting climbing.
with Simon Kimber
simon kimber ?Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S got a late start hoping to miss rush hour, ended up waiting soo long at every belay. worth it though
with Jules
got a late start hoping to miss rush hour, ended up waiting soo long at every belay. worth it though
with Jules
AdrianP 16 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Slightly overrated. Left camp 4 in the dark and still we were the 4th team to start...
with Olli
Slightly overrated. Left camp 4 in the dark and still we were the 4th team to start...
with Olli
Hidden 3 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2009 -
alex_arthur 4 Jul, 2009 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 -
al99 26 May, 2009 AltLd dog Popped on the 10b move!
with AlexM
Popped on the 10b move!
with AlexM
Hidden 26 May, 2009 AltLd dog
alasdair19 ??, 2009 AltLd dnf
nickcanute ?Oct, 2008 AltLd
with tim parkinson
with tim parkinson
C coldwell-storry ?Sep, 2008 AltLd
with Neil Chelton
with Neil Chelton
markalmack ?Sep, 2008 AltLd dog popped on the 10b move off the belay.
popped on the 10b move off the belay.
hiyaneil ?Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Callum
with Callum
Hidden ?Sep, 2007 2nd O/S
Chris Beck ??, 2007 AltLd Good day route , alone on the wall! , but super hot and really dehydrated by the end of it.. fixed ab ropes on the ledges descent helped alot:)
Good day route , alone on the wall! , but super hot and really dehydrated by the end of it.. fixed ab ropes on the ledges descent helped alot:)
Hidden 15 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
AnnaBacklund ?Nov, 2005 2nd
French Erick ?Oct, 2005 AltLd O/S
with DaveHK
with DaveHK
Steve Clegg ?Oct, 2005 - Another leisurely, post-deli-breakfast start! Got to the top in the last of the daylight. Abbed the fat, furry fixed ropes in the dark. Spooky ... even with a head torch.
with Ian P
Another leisurely, post-deli-breakfast start! Got to the top in the last of the daylight. Abbed the fat, furry fixed ropes in the dark. Spooky ... even with a head torch.
with Ian P
DaveHK ?Oct, 2005 AltLd
with Erick Baillot
with Erick Baillot
Hidden ?Oct, 2005 -
datoon 30 Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
with DR
with DR
Hidden 26 Sep, 2004 AltLd
akhughes ?Sep, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
with Steptoe
pete johnson ?May, 2004 AltLd
pauldrew ?May, 2004 AltLd Great route even 2nd time around.
Great route even 2nd time around.
Hidden ?Sep, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2001 AltLd
Simonfarfaraway ?Jul, 2000 AltLd Brilliant route, the cruz first pitch wakes you up but can be frenched! The traverse cross head wall pitch particularly memorable. Off width pitch good, take a friend 5 or its would be scary
with Steve Hastings
Brilliant route, the cruz first pitch wakes you up but can be frenched! The traverse cross head wall pitch particularly memorable. Off width pitch good, take a friend 5 or its would be scary
with Steve Hastings
dan gibson ?Sep, 1999 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Gareth Griffiths 12 Sep, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Chris Hope
with Chris Hope
Matt Clifton ??, 1998 Lead O/S With Helen
With Helen
Hidden ?Aug, 1997 AltLd O/S
accynez 13 Jun, 1996 AltLd O/S Did Moratorium first to make a good long day.
with Boggy
Did Moratorium first to make a good long day.
with Boggy
Derek Ryden ?Oct, 1995 Lead O/S
with Val Hammel
with Val Hammel
Roget 27 Sep, 1994 AltLd O/S
with baccy
with baccy
Mike Owen 20 Nov, 1993 AltLd O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
pauldrew ?May, 1992 AltLd
with Ian Lewis
with Ian Lewis
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 12 Sep, 1987 AltLd O/S
with Jeff ?
with Jeff ?
geoff b ?Aug, 1986 AltLd Can't remember exactly when this was but I spent two weeks here in Sept-Oct 1986 climbing with folk in Camp 4. This was done with a guy from Vermont who only had a 45m rope which made the abseils rather too exciting!
Can't remember exactly when this was but I spent two weeks here in Sept-Oct 1986 climbing with folk in Camp 4. This was done with a guy from Vermont who only had a 45m rope which made the abseils rather too exciting!
Hidden 17 Oct, 1981 AltLd
duncan ?Sep, 1981 AltLd O/S
with Simon Reed
with Simon Reed
Mark Kemball 17 Jul, 1981 AltLd
with Russ Eyles
with Russ Eyles
petemeads ?Oct, 1975 AltLd The famous pitch is excellent, the whole route is not too hard and makes a good day out. And you get to find where the rappel descent route goes.
with Mick Brady
The famous pitch is excellent, the whole route is not too hard and makes a good day out. And you get to find where the rappel descent route goes.
with Mick Brady
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Voting
High 5.10c
Mid 5.10c
Low 5.10c
High 5.10b
Mid 5.10b
Low 5.10b
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set