Rockfax Description
I, 350m. Essentially a snow plod for climbers, this is a popular ski descent. It is an aesthetic line and a good introduction to moving quickly up steep snow.
Approach - From the top of the Grands Montets Lift, descend gently southwards.
Cross the bergschrund and follow the couloir, which gradually steepens throughout its length. The final 50m is often mixed and the route exits onto the 'demi-lune' in the Petite Aiguille Verte's Northeast Ridge.
Descent - The route finishes just below the summit of the Petite Aiguille Verte, so either continue to the summit and descend the Northwest Ridge, or head directly down the North Face back to the lift. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
50-55 degree snow gully. 300 meters at about scottish II.

Approach from Col des Grands Montets about 400 meters along rock buttress on right. Skis or snowshoes may be in order for approach in winter although there is a trail usually packed down by skiers. Crossing bergshrund can be crux of climb.

Continue up and a little to the right to the rocks that lead up to the narrow gully. No in situ gear.
Up and over the snowy NE Ridge and descent via rappel (where there may be fixed slings) on the north face or follow the normal route back to the Col des Grands Montets. 2-4 hours (in good conditions).

H. Camere and Pierre Chevalier 23/Aug/1930

Ticklists: Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017.

Ollie B 16/Apr AltLd O/S

Moved together up the whole thing.

with J.Williams
JoeWilliams 16/Apr AltLd O/S

Moved Together

with Ollie B
Ewan Russell 04/Jan AltLd O/S

Moved together.

with Faye Manners
Remyveness 02/Jan Solo O/S

Moved together over the last mixed section, reasonable neve for most of the route and about 100 meters of mixed at the end. Not really in skiing condition yet sadly.

with Thom Houlden
ijsbeer 31/Dec/16 Lead

Leon Houben

Richard Kendrick 30/Jan/16 Solo
stanleynkk 30/Jan/16 Solo
Hidden 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
Roberttaylor 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

With ed, moved together.

Edvenables 25/Jul/14 -

First alpine climb. Set off after no sleep in the heavily lemon-scented grands montets loos. Good neve at first, snow became less solid as we gained height. Found the mixed sections very tricky.

with Robert Taylor
Hidden 05/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
chapmand 25/Mar/14 -


ndraper1 25/Mar/14 -


Pete Houghton 13/Mar/14 -

Super conditions for climbing it, the ski back down was a little chattery.

Hidden 23/Dec/13 2nd
Somerset swede basher 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Not in great condition, a spring route really, but still very climbable with a few loose rocky bands.

with Andy Kennedy
Alpandy 09/Aug/11 2nd
with Dom
Kris ?/May/11 -
Andy Hewison 19/Jan/11 2nd O/S
with Francois
maxf ?/Jan/11 -
quarryman ?/Jul/10 AltLd dnf
with Nic Bryceland
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
heist182 ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Jamie Tattersall; Wendy Couch
Misha 17/Jul/08 2nd

Rotten snow conditions and little visibility but a nice mixed section towards the top. 7 hours round trip from the Grands Montets due to difficult conditions. This should really be AD rather than II/III as mostly a snow climb.

Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd
Yyonnx ?/Mar/05 AltLd

Climb was better than we thought it might be. Approach via skis was not necessary as Dunc following down on foot was ready to start climbing before I was! And carrying the skis up and over not much fun either. 4 hours station to station

with Dunc
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