Rockfax Description
A pulse-enhancing and memorable pitch that features an extremely runout crux. Start just right of the arete below some thin cracks.
Gain and climb the cracks to the first horizontal break. Move up the wall to a small flake from where a stiff rock-over gains a thin seam up to the left and the second break just above. Pull through the overhang and step right to finish up the steep prow on good holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The sheer slab between Samson Arete and Demo Route provides a fine bold E5 onsight rather than a miserable no-star top-rope exercise. Gear just above half-height will protect the crux with a swift belayer, so psyche up and go for it. Climb a tricky flared crack to the break, unload all your rack and stand up. Good scoops lead easily to an impasse a small flake, style leftwards via a great sequence to the thin crack and main ledge. Pull over as for DR, the finish right up the flakey nose.

Mark Edwards

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 22 May TR RP
Peter Reynolds 24 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden ?Aug, 2018 2nd RP
Marl 17 Aug, 2017 TR Very good route with climbing at limit of staying on
with Cam
Very good route with climbing at limit of staying on
with Cam
Hidden 18 Jun, 2017 TR dnf
Alkis 18 Jun, 2017 TR RP
Hidden 8 Jun, 2017 TR RP
m.powell02 8 Jun, 2017 TR O/S
with twill
with twill
Chimnastics 20 May, 2017 2nd rpt At least I managed to not fall off of this. :)
with Fiend
At least I managed to not fall off of this. :)
with Fiend
kennythescot 23 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
with Rich Mackie
with Rich Mackie
JendeHoxar 22 Apr, 2017 TR O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 22 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Should have tried to O/S but it was asking a bit much on the 10th consecutive day climbing without a rest day. 1st time headpointing anything, 1st go on TR and lead, 1st " E6 ".
Should have tried to O/S but it was asking a bit much on the 10th consecutive day climbing without a rest day. 1st time headpointing anything, 1st go on TR and lead, 1st " E6 ".
Hidden 8 Apr, 2017 TR rpt
Hidden 8 Apr, 2017 2nd RP
janegallwey 8 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Had a toprope for fun while waiting for stuff to dry. Half an hour later somehow found some surprise courage to lead it. Was absorbing let's say...
Had a toprope for fun while waiting for stuff to dry. Half an hour later somehow found some surprise courage to lead it. Was absorbing let's say...
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Bhopper 16 Feb, 2017 TR Top roped in the morning so route a bit wet, will have to come back for the lead, long way up from the gear at the crux!!
Top roped in the morning so route a bit wet, will have to come back for the lead, long way up from the gear at the crux!!
Sam Marks 14 Sep, 2016 Lead β Aim of the trip! Abseil inspection, felt like a shame but glad I did. Absorbing moves over the slab
with Josh
Aim of the trip! Abseil inspection, felt like a shame but glad I did. Absorbing moves over the slab
with Josh
Jmpollard 14 Sep, 2016 2nd dog Solid effort from Sam! Absolutely bricking it on belay though!
Solid effort from Sam! Absolutely bricking it on belay though!
Chimnastics 23 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt Had practiced many times, over several sessions. Was very nervous prior to leading, but when I did it felt just like another top-rope lap, and I really enjoyed it. Stoked!
with beni
Had practiced many times, over several sessions. Was very nervous prior to leading, but when I did it felt just like another top-rope lap, and I really enjoyed it. Stoked!
with beni
beni 23 Jul, 2016 TR
brianhall16 23 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Abseiled down it looking at the holds, then led it.
Abseiled down it looking at the holds, then led it.
Hidden 18 Jul, 2016 TR dnf
Jackislav 17 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Chimnastics 11 Jul, 2016 TR rpt Cool! Was expecting it to be much harder. 'Tis thin, that's true, but there's a good sequence and it's not pumpy at all on the hands or feet. Headpoint project?
Cool! Was expecting it to be much harder. 'Tis thin, that's true, but there's a good sequence and it's not pumpy at all on the hands or feet. Headpoint project?
Lumbering Oaf 11 Jul, 2016 TR rpt Nice moves on a very texted slab. Found crux to be getting to the crack on the top left of the second slab. Big cojones required if on lead.
Nice moves on a very texted slab. Found crux to be getting to the crack on the top left of the second slab. Big cojones required if on lead.
Hidden 2 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
Rocky 2 Jul, 2016 2nd dog
with remus
with remus
lcullum7 17 Jun, 2016 TR RP
with Rowan Chesmer, JRJones, Henry Hakkinnen, kyaizawa
with Rowan Chesmer, JRJones, Henry Hakkinnen, kyaizawa
JRJones 17 Jun, 2016 TR dog two falls
two falls
Hidden 17 Jun, 2016 TR
Hidden 17 Jun, 2016 TR dnf
kyaizawa 17 Jun, 2016 TR O/S Nice moves that flow well. Would definitely consider leading in future!!
with Rowan Chesmer, Henry Hakkinen, lcullum7
Nice moves that flow well. Would definitely consider leading in future!!
with Rowan Chesmer, Henry Hakkinen, lcullum7
Hidden 3 Jun, 2016 TR
Hidden 3 Jun, 2016 -
waydan 29 May, 2016 2nd Great lead by Swifty, a very bold and well worth its three *** climb.
Great lead by Swifty, a very bold and well worth its three *** climb.
El Swiftos! 28 May, 2016 Lead
with waydan
with waydan
Hidden 15 May, 2016 -
Hidden 15 May, 2016 -
dready 18 Mar, 2016 TR rpt nice technical slab moves
nice technical slab moves
chrismadar 16 Jun, 2015 TR O/S Got all the moves clean although would have been absolutely terrified on the crux on lead. Hopefully next year I will have balls big enough to do it clean.
with Craig Osborne
Got all the moves clean although would have been absolutely terrified on the crux on lead. Hopefully next year I will have balls big enough to do it clean.
with Craig Osborne
waydan ??, 2015 TR
waydan 30 Sep, 2014 TR Unbelievable route, I am so looking forward to the lead, really bold so want to practice many times.
Unbelievable route, I am so looking forward to the lead, really bold so want to practice many times.
eel 10 Sep, 2014 TR O/S
with Jeremy
with Jeremy
Alex moore ?Jul, 2014 Lead
with Tom bunn
with Tom bunn
clubmanpete 21 Jun, 2014 2nd Thought I'd have a bash at seconding it instead of demo route. ... Completed the first pitch one annoying fall... Well. Chuffed
Thought I'd have a bash at seconding it instead of demo route. ... Completed the first pitch one annoying fall... Well. Chuffed
Hidden 9 Jun, 2013 Lead
Coops_13 5 Jun, 2013 TR O/S Nice, tenuous moves
with Dan Geh
Nice, tenuous moves
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 5 Jun, 2013 TR O/S
with Ross
with Ross
Hidden 4 Jun, 2013 TR
Sam Hunt ?Jun, 2013 TR dog
AMJ098 ?Jun, 2013 TR dog
rurp 30 May, 2013 TR RP shunt. one fall at the top. glad to not take the big drop for real!
shunt. one fall at the top. glad to not take the big drop for real!
Hidden 29 May, 2013 Lead RP
Ed Booth 17 May, 2013 TR rpt Just checked out top wall again. Scary high move but steady.
with PJ ( Belgium)
Just checked out top wall again. Scary high move but steady.
with PJ ( Belgium)
Hidden 21 Feb, 2013 TR RP
HazelMacLean ??, 2013 TR Hell yeah! double crimp into gaston. Everybody said there were no feet... but there were feet everywhere!
Hell yeah! double crimp into gaston. Everybody said there were no feet... but there were feet everywhere!
Patrick Hill ?Jul, 2012 TR
oliver.ghill91 28 Jun, 2012 TR RP
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
wojt ??, 2012 Lead O/S
bunn.aroundthebloc 17 Aug, 2011 Lead RP Headpoint. 4 goes on the top rope, then Led clean. Balancey, frictiony move in a serious position.
with Tom Thorpe
Headpoint. 4 goes on the top rope, then Led clean. Balancey, frictiony move in a serious position.
with Tom Thorpe
adam cooper*super* 6 Aug, 2011 TR O/S felt fine for 6a
with Jack_F
felt fine for 6a
with Jack_F
liamoloughlin 27 Apr, 2011 TR O/S Too hot....next time!
Too hot....next time!
Dan_Carroll 19 Apr, 2011 TR RP
with Mr. Shunt
with Mr. Shunt
thomb 5 Mar, 2011 TR
Ed morris 6 Nov, 2010 TR O/S Felt fine for 6a. The gear would save you from the crux, not the finishing crack. very tempted to get on the lead.
Felt fine for 6a. The gear would save you from the crux, not the finishing crack. very tempted to get on the lead.
westyb3 31 Aug, 2010 Lead RP
with Jason Williams
with Jason Williams
Dan_Carroll 29 Aug, 2010 TR dog
JonBrown 17 Jul, 2010 TR O/S Nails blank slab with zero/minimal gear
with Grace
Nails blank slab with zero/minimal gear
with Grace
jacobjacob 13 Jun, 2010 Lead RP started raining as I topped out, Amazing climb!
started raining as I topped out, Amazing climb!
Hidden 13 Jun, 2010 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 15 May, 2010 2nd Gripping belay experience - led on sight
with Tadej (Slovenia)
Gripping belay experience - led on sight
with Tadej (Slovenia)
Ed Booth 23 Apr, 2010 TR O/S
tweedcore 19 Jun, 2009 TR
d_meacher 19 Jun, 2009 TR dnf
mattcyp88 3 Jun, 2009 Lead RP Gulp! First E6 after much practise
Gulp! First E6 after much practise
Hidden 3 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 1 Jun, 2009 TR O/S
willh88 1 Jun, 2009 TR dnf A nice route. only had the one attempt but came off on the crack just after the crux.
A nice route. only had the one attempt but came off on the crack just after the crux.
Hidden ?Jun, 2007 2nd dog
feilx 21 Apr, 2007 TR O/S
with Brian
with Brian
stuart100 30 Jun, 2006 TR O/S
Gus 27 Aug, 2002 Lead
with ben rouse
with ben rouse
Hidden 23 Jul, 2001 TR RP
Ally Smith ?Jul, 2001 Lead O/S Date a guess - post exam trip from Brizzle
with EmilyG
Date a guess - post exam trip from Brizzle
with EmilyG
Hidden ?Jun, 2001 2nd
JulesV ??, 2001 Lead O/S First lead of anything harder than E4 so it can't be that bad. One trcky move in a serious position.
with Rob Sutton
First lead of anything harder than E4 so it can't be that bad. One trcky move in a serious position.
with Rob Sutton
Jon Read ?Jun, 1997 Lead RP
with Noel Curtis
with Noel Curtis
Hidden ??, 1989 TR
Hidden ?Jul, 1988 TR
Hidden ??, 1988 Lead
18 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 24
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set