Rockfax Description
A pulse-enhancing and memorable pitch that features an extremely runout crux. Start just right of the arete below some thin cracks.
Gain and climb the cracks to the first horizontal break. Move up the wall to a small flake from where a stiff rock-over gains a thin seam up to the left and the second break just above. Pull through the overhang and step right to finish up the steep prow on good holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The sheer slab between Samson Arete and Demo Route provides a fine bold E5 onsight rather than a miserable no-star top-rope exercise. Gear just above half-height will protect the crux with a swift belayer, so psyche up and go for it. Climb a tricky flared crack to the break, unload all your rack and stand up. Good scoops lead easily to an impasse a small flake, style leftwards via a great sequence to the thin crack and main ledge. Pull over as for DR, the finish right up the flakey nose.

Mark Edwards

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff.


ClimberDateStyle
manbat 20/May 2nd rpt

At least I managed to not fall off of this. :)

kennythescot 23/Apr Lead RP
with Rich Mackie
JenShelley 22/Apr TR O/S
FlavioL1989 22/Apr Lead RP

I probably could have on-sighted this but it was asking a bit much on the 10th consecutive day climbing without a rest day. 1st time headpointing a route, 1st go on TR and lead.

Hidden 08/Apr TR rpt
Hidden 08/Apr 2nd RP
janegallwey 08/Apr Lead RP

Had a toprope for fun while waiting for stuff to dry. Half an hour later somehow found some surprise courage to lead it. Was absorbing let's say...

Hidden 25/Mar Lead O/S
Bhopper 16/Feb TR

Top roped in the morning so route a bit wet, will have to come back for the lead, long way up from the gear at the crux!!

Sam Marks 14/Sep/16 Lead β

Aim of the trip! Abseil inspection, felt like a shame but glad I did. Absorbing moves over the slab

with Josh
Jmpollard 14/Sep/16 2nd dog

Solid effort from Sam! Absolutely bricking it on belay though!

manbat 23/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Had practiced many times, over several sessions. Was very nervous prior to leading, but when I did it felt just like another top-rope lap, and I really enjoyed it. Stoked!

beni 23/Jul/16 TR
brianhall16 23/Jul/16 Lead RP

Abseiled down it looking at the holds, then led it.

Hidden 18/Jul/16 TR dnf
Jackislav 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
manbat 11/Jul/16 TR rpt

Cool! Was expecting it to be much harder. 'Tis thin, that's true, but there's a good sequence and it's not pumpy at all on the hands or feet. Headpoint project?

Lumbering Oaf 11/Jul/16 TR rpt

Nice moves on a very texted slab. Found crux to be getting to the crack on the top left of the second slab. Big cojones required if on lead.

Hidden 02/Jul/16 Lead RP
Rocky 02/Jul/16 2nd dog
with Remus
lcullum7 17/Jun/16 TR RP
with Rowan Chesmer, Joe Jones, Henry Hakkinnen, Ky Aizawa
JRJones 17/Jun/16 TR dog

two falls

Hidden 17/Jun/16 TR
Hidden 17/Jun/16 TR dnf
kyaizawa 17/Jun/16 TR O/S

Nice moves that flow well. Would definitely consider leading in future!!

with Rowan Chesmer, Henry Hakkinen, Luke Cullum
Hidden 03/Jun/16 -
waydan 29/May/16 2nd

Great lead by Swifty, a very bold and well worth its three *** climb.

El Swiftos! 28/May/16 Lead
with waydan
Jonam 15/May/16 -
Jonam 15/May/16 -
with Jim
dready 18/Mar/16 TR rpt

nice technical slab moves

chrismadar 16/Jun/15 TR O/S

Got all the moves clean although would have been absolutely terrified on the crux on lead. Hopefully next year I will have balls big enough to do it clean.

with Craig Osborne
Owen Diba ?/Jun/15 TR O/S
waydan ??/2015 TR
waydan 30/Sep/14 TR

Unbelievable route, I am so looking forward to the lead, really bold so want to practice many times.

eel 10/Sep/14 TR O/S
with Jeremy
Alex moore ?/Jul/14 Lead
with Tom bunn
clubmanpete 21/Jun/14 2nd

Thought I'd have a bash at seconding it instead of demo route. ... Completed the first pitch one annoying fall... Well. Chuffed

Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead
Coops_13 05/Jun/13 TR O/S

Nice, tenuous moves

with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 05/Jun/13 TR O/S
with Ross
Hidden 04/Jun/13 TR
Sam Hunt ?/Jun/13 TR dog
AMJ098 ?/Jun/13 TR dog
rurp 30/May/13 TR RP

shunt. one fall at the top. glad to not take the big drop for real!

Hidden 29/May/13 Lead RP
Ed Booth 17/May/13 TR rpt

Just checked out top wall again. Scary high move but steady.

with PJ ( Belgium)
Hidden 21/Feb/13 TR RP
HazelMacLean ??/2013 TR

Hell yeah! double crimp into gaston. Everybody said there were no feet... but there were feet everywhere!

Patrick Hill ?/Jul/12 TR
oliver.ghill91 28/Jun/12 TR RP
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
wojt ??/2012 Lead O/S
El3ctroFuzz 17/Aug/11 Lead RP

Headpoint. 4 goes on the top rope, then Led clean. Balancey, frictiony move in a serious position.

with Tom Thorpe
adam cooper*super* 06/Aug/11 TR O/S

felt fine for 6a

liamoloughlin 27/Apr/11 TR O/S

Too hot....next time!

Dan_Carroll 19/Apr/11 TR RP
with Mr. Shunt
thomb 05/Mar/11 TR
Ed morris 06/Nov/10 TR O/S

Felt fine for 6a. The gear would save you from the crux, not the finishing crack. very tempted to get on the lead.

westyb3 31/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Jason Williams
Dan_Carroll 29/Aug/10 TR dog
JonBrown 17/Jul/10 TR O/S

Nails blank slab with zero/minimal gear

with Grace
jacobjacob 13/Jun/10 Lead RP

started raining as I topped out, Amazing climb!

Hidden 13/Jun/10 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 15/May/10 2nd

Gripping belay experience - led on sight

with Tadej (Slovenia)
Ed Booth 23/Apr/10 TR O/S
tweedcore 19/Jun/09 TR
d_meacher 19/Jun/09 TR dnf
mattcyp88 03/Jun/09 Lead RP

Gulp! First E6 after much practise

Hidden 03/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/09 TR O/S
willh88 01/Jun/09 TR dnf

A nice route. only had the one attempt but came off on the crack just after the crux.

Hidden ?/Jun/07 2nd dog
feilx 21/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Brian
stuart100 30/Jun/06 TR O/S
Gus 27/Aug/02 Lead
with ben rouse
Hidden 23/Jul/01 TR RP
Ally Smith ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S

Date a guess - post exam trip from Brizzle

Hidden ?/Jun/01 2nd
JulesV ??/2001 Lead O/S

First lead of anything harder than E4 so it can't be that bad. One trcky move in a serious position.

with Rob Sutton
Jon Read ?/Jun/97 Lead RP
with Noel Curtis
Hidden ??/1989 TR
Hidden ?/Jul/88 TR
Paul Clarke ??/1988 Lead
with local
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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 24
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set