Climb the corner to a large earthy ledge. The continuation corner is quite hard to start; finish by moving left under a small yew to a ledge below a larger tree. Abseil from here, or walk off.

F.Cannings 1970

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A Worthwhile Weekend at Wyndcliffe, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

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springfall2008 21 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Take plenty of mid-sized nuts. It's better to take this in two pitches as the belayer can't see above the ledge from the bottom. When moving off the ledge there's a good pocket at 3m which is used for both a hand hold and later a foothold. Good jugs left of the sapling for mounting the ledge.
 
Show beta
βeta: Take plenty of mid-sized nuts. It's better to take this in two pitches as the belayer can't see above the ledge from the bottom. When moving off the ledge there's a good pocket at 3m which is used for both a hand hold and later a foothold. Good jugs left of the sapling for mounting the ledge.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
springfall2008 20 Aug 2nd rpt Mark lead this time, multi-pitched again as it works well.
Mark lead this time, multi-pitched again as it works well.
cem 30 Jun 2nd rpt
with GrahamD, Quentin Jacquet
with GrahamD, Quentin Jacquet
Hidden 18 Jun Lead rpt
r8ck_chick 18 Jun 2nd Rain then spoiled play. Worst June ever!
with riff156
Rain then spoiled play. Worst June ever!
with riff156
Loz10 3 Jun 2nd rpt
mthr 4 May Lead O/S Good gear, bit dirty. Hard at 4c (5a!) off the ledge.
with bubgar
Good gear, bit dirty. Hard at 4c (5a!) off the ledge.
with bubgar
Fred Henry 13 Apr Lead O/S
with aleks
with aleks
Climbingenthusiast 1 Mar 2nd O/S
with dkilner
with dkilner
dkilner 1 Mar Lead O/S
EllieWoods 12 Jan Lead rpt
Dave Cundy ?? -
bpmclimb 21 Oct, 2018 Lead rpt
lieraza 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Twas lovely.
with evhall, Sarju
Twas lovely.
with evhall, Sarju
Andrew Sloan 2 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Very good route, warrants 2 stars.
with Andy
Very good route, warrants 2 stars.
with Andy
Hidden 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Gibbo 7 Aug, 2018 Lead
with Derek Tole
with Derek Tole
Hidden 12 Jun, 2018 2nd
Hidden 22 May, 2018 2nd
Pero 9 May, 2018 2nd
Bryan M 9 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Pero
with Pero
Ian Stirrups 6 Apr, 2018 2nd rpt Climbed this really, really badly
with Bill Turner
Climbed this really, really badly
with Bill Turner
cem 15 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S A bit damp in places but very worthwhile.
with Brian
A bit damp in places but very worthwhile.
with Brian
bpmclimb 15 Mar, 2018 2nd rpt
with cem
with cem
minty1984 17 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Plenty of brambles to fight getting onto the 1st main ledge. Really nice route and again felt tough for the grade!
Plenty of brambles to fight getting onto the 1st main ledge. Really nice route and again felt tough for the grade!
wurzelinzummerset 17 Sep, 2017 2nd The ledge partway is getting brambly. Could do with a trim if someone is thinking of climbing it soon and takes some secateurs up. Likewise with the abseil line.
The ledge partway is getting brambly. Could do with a trim if someone is thinking of climbing it soon and takes some secateurs up. Likewise with the abseil line.
EllieWoods 2 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 11 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 May, 2017 2nd
myrddinmuse 5 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Fun route. Spent loads of time psyching myself up and building a protection nest before the 'crux' above the ledge, as the left wall was a bit wet but found it reasonably straightforward in the end. Found a red nut, turns out it belongs to Barney, and has resided in that crack since December..
with James Hardman, steve-grigg
Fun route. Spent loads of time psyching myself up and building a protection nest before the 'crux' above the ledge, as the left wall was a bit wet but found it reasonably straightforward in the end. Found a red nut, turns out it belongs to Barney, and has resided in that crack since December..
with James Hardman, steve-grigg
steve-grigg 5 Feb, 2017 2nd
kierankeavy 4 Dec, 2016 2nd O/S
BHuthers 4 Dec, 2016 Lead dog Fell off about 3m above halfway ledge, thanks kieran for stopping me from hitting it. There's now a red nut stuck in the crack there....
Fell off about 3m above halfway ledge, thanks kieran for stopping me from hitting it. There's now a red nut stuck in the crack there....
springfall2008 3 Oct, 2016 Lead RP Lead after seconding this route last year. Climbed as a multi-pitch this time, which made it a bit more relaxed. Tricky sequence up to the ledge and then off the ledge again. Placed a red Tricam in the pocket above the ledge. Good route.
Lead after seconding this route last year. Climbed as a multi-pitch this time, which made it a bit more relaxed. Tricky sequence up to the ledge and then off the ledge again. Placed a red Tricam in the pocket above the ledge. Good route.
Ian Stirrups 23 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt Pity the crux section off the ledge is getting so desperately polished, it rather spoils what would ptherwise be one of the more amenable routes at Wynd Cliff.
with Sue
Pity the crux section off the ledge is getting so desperately polished, it rather spoils what would ptherwise be one of the more amenable routes at Wynd Cliff.
with Sue
AndyMcCoy 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 31 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2016 2nd dog
steve-grigg 14 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Richard Byrom 9 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Simon Middleton
with Simon Middleton
NatCheeseman ?Jun, 2016 2nd
with Malcolm Phelps
with Malcolm Phelps
Hidden 24 May, 2016 Lead
ian d f 15 May, 2016 2nd O/S
markfromstoke 15 May, 2016 Lead
with ian d f
with ian d f
steve_gibbs 20 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Legs 20 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
Bristol_Quornstar 20 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
with steve_gibbs, Max Coney
with steve_gibbs, Max Coney
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
springfall2008 29 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S Found a couple of the bridge positions on the lower half were a little bit tenuous. There is some degree of polish moving up from the ledge, but found a really good pocket. The route requires loads of small/medium nuts and offsets, take two full sets unless you intend to multi-pitch. Topped out, it's easier than the abseil if you can find a way through the trees to the top path. Good route, but only one star for me.
Found a couple of the bridge positions on the lower half were a little bit tenuous. There is some degree of polish moving up from the ledge, but found a really good pocket. The route requires loads of small/medium nuts and offsets, take two full sets unless you intend to multi-pitch. Topped out, it's easier than the abseil if you can find a way through the trees to the top path. Good route, but only one star for me.
MikeC59 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S David lead first pitch to ledge, I lead second pitch
with David E
David lead first pitch to ledge, I lead second pitch
with David E
Huntlyfiddler 1 Aug, 2015 2nd
bpmclimb 1 Aug, 2015 Lead rpt Abseil tat and ring no longer in place around the big tree. One of the two large projecting branches is dead and therefore not safe as an anchor.
Abseil tat and ring no longer in place around the big tree. One of the two large projecting branches is dead and therefore not safe as an anchor.
stevethomas 18 Jul, 2015 Lead Great route, great moves having to work out how to unlock the moves off the ledge.
with Heather
Great route, great moves having to work out how to unlock the moves off the ledge.
with Heather
Ian Stirrups 16 Jun, 2015 2nd
with Sue
with Sue
bpmclimb 21 May, 2015 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 21 May, 2015 2nd
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Gibbo 6 Apr, 2015 2nd
with Tom Sutherland
with Tom Sutherland
bonelessivar 31 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 31 Mar, 2015 2nd
Chris Sieradzki 21 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S Some good moves there
with Hooo
Some good moves there
with Hooo
Hooo 21 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S First climb in 7 months. Found it easy enough, some nice moves, loads of gear. The big tree at the top appears to be dead and there was no tat, so we walked off. This turned out to be easy enough, so we did the same with all the other routes today.
First climb in 7 months. Found it easy enough, some nice moves, loads of gear. The big tree at the top appears to be dead and there was no tat, so we walked off. This turned out to be easy enough, so we did the same with all the other routes today.
jon_ridley 8 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S
davidclare 8 Feb, 2015 2nd O/S
Huntlyfiddler 16 Jan, 2015 2nd
bpmclimb 16 Jan, 2015 Lead rpt
Marti999 31 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 15 Nov, 2014 2nd O/S
with Steve Collard
with Steve Collard
Hidden 15 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Katsmiff 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Pretty easy climbing. Nice climb to finish up on.
Pretty easy climbing. Nice climb to finish up on.
Rafal Malczyk 23 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
with Catherine Smith
with Catherine Smith
mr random 23 Aug, 2014 2nd
with Rafael Malczyk
with Rafael Malczyk
clairemathews 23 Aug, 2014 2nd
gregclarke 3 Aug, 2014 Lead rpt
with Ygraine
with Ygraine
saraguti 3 Aug, 2014 Lead
with jade
with jade
Dave Thompson 11 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 11 Jul, 2014 2nd
with Dave Thompson
with Dave Thompson
saz_b 8 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt
danieleaston 8 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
with saz_b
with saz_b
Ian Stirrups 1 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Sue
with Sue
Ollie B 31 May, 2014 Lead β Al led. Pulled ropes and I led on his gear.
with A.Rosier
Al led. Pulled ropes and I led on his gear.
with A.Rosier
Hidden 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
CurlyStevo 13 Apr, 2014 Lead Quite thin but rather good. Well protected.
with Mick Ward
Quite thin but rather good. Well protected.
with Mick Ward
Huntlyfiddler 23 Mar, 2014 2nd
bpmclimb 23 Mar, 2014 Lead rpt
gregclarke 3 Feb, 2014 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 3 Feb, 2014 Lead rpt We thought the big branch used for the lower off worth a second look. It's fairly massive so probably sound enough, but there's no foliage on it (a few buds, though). Time to install a more extended lower off around the main trunk, perhaps?
We thought the big branch used for the lower off worth a second look. It's fairly massive so probably sound enough, but there's no foliage on it (a few buds, though). Time to install a more extended lower off around the main trunk, perhaps?
rich H0001 ??, 2014 Lead
Mayaculpa 5 Oct, 2013 2nd
pheotleyr 5 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S Short hard section after the ledge. In contrast to many of the other VS climbs hereabouts, this doesn't need any big gear. In particular not two sets of large hexes. Next time...
Short hard section after the ledge. In contrast to many of the other VS climbs hereabouts, this doesn't need any big gear. In particular not two sets of large hexes. Next time...
Stuart William 3 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with Ben F
with Ben F
Huntlyfiddler 12 Aug, 2013 2nd
bpmclimb 12 Aug, 2013 Lead rpt
Quirina 9 Jun, 2013 2nd rpt Getting off the ledge is a challenge. Did manage in the end after a lot of up/down, up/down, up/down, up/down, up!
with larsen
Getting off the ledge is a challenge. Did manage in the end after a lot of up/down, up/down, up/down, up/down, up!
with larsen
Hidden 9 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
Hidden 26 May, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Ruari Brooker 20 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S Superb route. Bit prickly getting onto the ledge and a once there a tad unwilling to leave it behind
with Celia
Superb route. Bit prickly getting onto the ledge and a once there a tad unwilling to leave it behind
with Celia
Pero 14 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
AndyMcCoy 24 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
crossdressingrodney 24 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
with andy m
with andy m
Phil Murray 30 May, 2012 Lead O/S First half is a joy. Polished & tricky to get off the halfway ledge - 5a? - tho maybe I'm not used to this style of climbing.... recommended.
with Liz
First half is a joy. Polished & tricky to get off the halfway ledge - 5a? - tho maybe I'm not used to this style of climbing.... recommended.
with Liz
Different Steve 20 May, 2012 2nd rpt
with Shaun, Guy Reid
with Shaun, Guy Reid
greedo 20 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Steve Culverhouse, Guy reid
with Steve Culverhouse, Guy reid
steveb2006 12 May, 2012 2nd
Gibbo 15 Apr, 2012 2nd
with Tom Gibbison
with Tom Gibbison
Quirina 1 Apr, 2012 2nd rpt
with larsen
with larsen
Hidden 1 Apr, 2012 Lead rpt
Derek Ryden 31 Mar, 2012 2nd rpt
with Andy Forbes
with Andy Forbes
Gibbo 9 Mar, 2012 Lead
with Pete Derrett
with Pete Derrett
Hidden 19 Aug, 2011 Lead rpt
localboy 2 Aug, 2011 2nd First half only and then lowered off as arms had gone, as had the light.
First half only and then lowered off as arms had gone, as had the light.
Ybot Htulk 10 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Norman and Sonya
with Norman and Sonya
hobbitmat 10 Jul, 2011 Lead
with Monk
with Monk
Hidden 14 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Tomar 26 Feb, 2011 2nd O/S Better than Klute I thought. I laid back on final crack without bridging on the coner, better and harder that way.
with Oli
Better than Klute I thought. I laid back on final crack without bridging on the coner, better and harder that way.
with Oli
Tim Sparrow ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Garron 12 Dec, 2010 2nd β
Paul Robertson 12 Dec, 2010 Lead O/S
with Garron
with Garron
Hidden 5 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 5 Oct, 2010 2nd rpt
with hms
with hms
Norman_P_W 1 Aug, 2010 Lead Nice
with Bob M
Nice
with Bob M
Bob M 1 Aug, 2010 2nd
martinp 1 Aug, 2010 Lead
with Ken S
with Ken S
grumpyoldjanner 18 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Webster
with Webster
Webster 18 May, 2010 2nd O/S slightly tougher than it looks.
slightly tougher than it looks.
chrisallan 25 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
will_benfold 25 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
sgl0jd 1 Mar, 2010 Lead
stvredmond 1 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S This is a hidden gem, maintained interest till the very end with good groove/crack/ bridging technigues used
with sgl0jd
This is a hidden gem, maintained interest till the very end with good groove/crack/ bridging technigues used
with sgl0jd
Different Steve 16 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with Clare
with Clare
james.lane 9 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with Snot
with Snot
stephaneSi 20 Jul, 2009 Lead
with Dugald
with Dugald
Hidden 20 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S
saz_b 8 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S Lead this time round, easy. Not as polished as I remember it used to be at the ledge, but guess more confident a year on.
with Stephane
Lead this time round, easy. Not as polished as I remember it used to be at the ledge, but guess more confident a year on.
with Stephane
lundyman 20 Jun, 2009 Lead
Francois S 20 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
mick1jones 9 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Alex Wellings
with Alex Wellings
gareth r 29 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Jun, 2008 2nd
brady 29 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S split it into two pitches, belaying at the ledge
with Roger and Martin Palmer
split it into two pitches, belaying at the ledge
with Roger and Martin Palmer
leigh 29 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ed
with Ed
eagleopus 29 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
with Gareth
with Gareth
thomasadixon 22 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
with Bismarck
with Bismarck
Hidden 12 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
saz_b 12 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S great lead!
with frank cannings, dugald wilson
great lead!
with frank cannings, dugald wilson
dzlhodgson 24 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with David Smith
with David Smith
Derek Ryden 5 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Slim, Andy Forbes
with Slim, Andy Forbes
Quirina 10 Feb, 2008 2nd O/S
jamestryfan 16 Aug, 2007 2nd O/S Ev led the route, I seconded, Colin then followed. A good climb, wouldn't have been able to have led it myself though...
with EH and CK
Ev led the route, I seconded, Colin then followed. A good climb, wouldn't have been able to have led it myself though...
with EH and CK
evhall 16 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with colin
with colin
localboy 24 May, 2007 2nd dog Getting off the ledge was quite a challenge, but otherwise quite nice.
with raingod
Getting off the ledge was quite a challenge, but otherwise quite nice.
with raingod
cpoad 5 May, 2007 Lead rpt
with Clare F
with Clare F
Fat Tim 7 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Ben Fridland
with Ben Fridland
Jim Slater ?Mar, 2007 2nd O/S
with Mirek
with Mirek
Hidden 3 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
Paz 28 Jan, 2007 Lead O/S
with SB
with SB
Wil Treasure 15 Sep, 2006 Lead Quite polished, and more like 4c to get off the ledge.
with PeteR
Quite polished, and more like 4c to get off the ledge.
with PeteR
tincann 10 May, 2006 Lead O/S
Nick Haine 14 Nov, 2005 Lead O/S
with Barry Wright
with Barry Wright
Mark Davies PK ?Mar, 2005 Lead O/S
with Beesley
with Beesley
mikej 10 Jul, 2003 Lead
with Rachel W/E
with Rachel W/E
Huntlyfiddler 10 Oct, 2002 2nd
bpmclimb 10 Oct, 2002 Lead O/S
Will Homoky 9 Sep, 2001 Lead O/S
with Og (Andrew Forbes)
with Og (Andrew Forbes)
Hidden ?Feb, 2001 2nd
Iain Brown 11 Mar, 2000 -
with Gerdy
with Gerdy
alan moore ??, 2000 -
mikej 4 Sep, 1999 2nd
with Nick Salmon
with Nick Salmon
MartinN 8 Jul, 1999 2nd O/S
cpoad 26 Mar, 1999 2nd O/S
with John Cardy
with John Cardy
Hidden 3 May, 1997 Lead
Rog Wilko ?Oct, 1995 Lead 4b my a**e
with Debbie Wilkinson
4b my a**e
with Debbie Wilkinson
Backinthegame ?Jul, 1993 Lead O/S
with Lynn Wilkins, John Wright
with Lynn Wilkins, John Wright
Nigel R Lewis 9 Jul, 1991 2nd
Jelly Mould Surfer 31 Mar, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Mar, 1989 Lead
GordonHart ??, 1989 2nd O/S
with Dr. Jeremy
with Dr. Jeremy
babymoac 2 Jan, 1987 2nd
with MTW
with MTW
DDDD ??, 1986 Lead O/S
JamieAyres ?Sep, 1985 Lead O/S
jcw ??, 1985 -
with Simon Donowho
with Simon Donowho
Ken Taylor 17 Sep, 1983 Lead
with Gerry Dunford
with Gerry Dunford
Andy Chubb 28 Dec, 1979 Lead
with Saxon Ridley
with Saxon Ridley
Steve Lewis 3 Mar, 1979 Lead O/S
with Morty
with Morty
Ken Taylor 16 Oct, 1978 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
with Gerry Dunford
Hidden 30 May, 1976 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Feb, 1974 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 14 Apr, 1971 2nd
with John Stainforth
with John Stainforth
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 37
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set