12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 250m. A brilliant route which takes in a variety of pitches through some amazing terrain at an amenable grade - this is a 'must do' for anyone operating at this level. There is a bolted belay above the crux pitch but otherwise the belays are not in place. However, there are plenty of spikes on the route and virtually every stance has a something on it that you can put a sling around to belay off. Given the popularity of the route amongst mountain guides, it seems likely that bolts may be added in the future but for now, count on building your own belays. The route is described in pitches but, if you are to do it in good time (3-4 hours is about right), then you will need to move together on easier sections or climb very quickly and efficiently. There are numerous variations on the easier sections of the route, so as long as you find the key pitches (4 and 11), don't worry too much about the exact line you take elsewhere.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille follow a vague path leading directly to the foot of the ridge. This is hard to follow but even if you lose it, just make for the foot of the route and you shouldn't go far wrong. The closer you get to the route, the more the approach becomes a scramble across a boulderfield but route finding is still easy enough.
1) 4a. Having reached the foot of the ridge, move onto the right of it and climb a series of easy cracks and slabs to reach the foot of a short, steep corner with two jammed blocks in it.
2) 5b. Climb the corner, which is more thuggish than hard, and follow the ridge crest for 5m, past some fun and exposed moves, to the bottom of a series of parallel cracks.
3) 4c. Climb the cracks and step left at the top to regain the ridge crest. Follow this for 10m to reach a ledge.
4) 5c. Follow the ridge for a few metres and downclimb slightly to reach a 1m wide gap which separates the ridge from the wall across from it. Take a deep breath and step across the gap before making a few steep moves onto easier ground. There are some pegs to protect this move and these are often used for aid. Continue left up the easier ground to a belay with an excellent view of the move across the gap.
5) 4b. Head along the ridge crest to reach some grassy ledges.
6) 4b. Climb easy but fun slabs, drifting leftwards, to the foot of a steep corner, just left of the ridge crest.
7) 4c. Climb the corner, which is steep and satisfying.
8) 4b. Move onto the right of the ridge and follow easy but exposed ground to a niche below a slab.
9) 4c. Climb up and left across slabs to reach a cracked wall directly below the 'letter box' gap between two rock walls.
10) 4c. Climb the excellent wall to reach the 'letter box' and a good belay on a jammed block.
11) 5c. Exit the letter box rightwards and climb a steep corner protected by pegs. Where this steepens further, make a committing step right around a rib and then carry on up a still steep but easier flakes to a large ledge.
12) 4b. Follow the ridge as it descends to a niche below a slab.
13) 5b. Climb the slab and belay just below the ridge crest.
14) 4a. Follow the ridge, staying a couple of metres below the crest, to a junction with Les Lepidoptères.
15) 5a. Continue along just to the left of the ridge crest and then get onto the crest itself after 10m via a steep little pull up over a bulge. Continue more easily on the crest.
16) 4a. Follow the exposed but easy ridge to a notch above a steep corner on the right of the ridge.
Descent - Either continue to the summit via the Peigne Normal Route if time allows, or make a 25m abseil down a steep corner south of (and directly below) the final belay to reach the Papillons Couloir which forms the start of the Peigne Normal Route. Scramble down here past one further abseil. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic route, good for a half-day's outting. Can be pretty crowded at times. Small rack of Friends and nuts required. Some in situ gear on the hardest sections. Does not top out so will have to combine with other routes if the summit is what you are after. Enjoy the "letterbox" pitch!

K Gurekian, L Pez and A Subut 10/Sep/1948

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+).

JessWilliams 25/Sep/17 AltLd
Dexter JW 25/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
SarahA 25/Sep/17 AltLd

Mike lead cruxes

with mmason1
Ben Costello 25/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
Oliver Livesey 25/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Simil climb most except a few grade 5 pitches which dex lead

Matt Amos 24/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with Deary65
Deary65 24/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with Matt A
LDudill 05/Sep/17 Lead O/S

combination of moving together / some pitching more difficult bits. Class route. most difficult bit is trying to make sense of topo and route finding, although prob made harder by fact we was in cloud most of route. Best description would just be follow line of least resistance and maybe describe odd bit like going through the letterbox, although it would still be hard to actually get too lost! just don't read into any topo too much :) started in afternoon and did final pitch from letter box just to pop through the top of the cloud into an immense inversion and the sun setting. Immense setting to be in completely alone! Walked all the way back down (further than I thought! def doesn't seem as long when you ski it!), in time for midnight burger :)

Felicity Eperon 21/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Josh Abrahams
Hidden 21/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
adam088 20/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Jon Turner, jbuoey
SJPowderham1 20/Aug/17 -
Hidden 16/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
CameronH 16/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 15/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 13/Aug/17 -
Hidden 13/Aug/17 -
seanhendo123 07/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Great day, moved together all the way in approach trainers, French freed the first 5c pitch but clean other than that

with Lamb
Lamb 07/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Moved together in tennies, worked well. Both hauled at the finger lock slab crux. Continued to the summit of the Peigne via Route Normale. Made for a good day. Ten hours lift to lift.

Hidden 06/Aug/17 AltLd
Wizzy 05/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Classic! 2.5 hours for the route. 4.5 hours lift to lift

with Sam
Sam McCarthy 05/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

All simul besides letterbox

with wizzy
Wendy Watthews 02/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Got lost on the way down and had to make some obviously little used abseils. Great route Luke lead the overhanging 5c chimney which was more than a little awkward carrying a bit bag.

with Luke
Jo sumner 01/Aug/17 2nd
JasonOneEye 01/Aug/17 AltLd

Excellent day out

with Eogan O'Connell
Hidden 01/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jul/17 AltLd
scottywakefield 29/Jul/17 AltLd
Iain_L_32 29/Jul/17 AltLd
Andrew Abraham 27/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Mega day out

with Paul Deane
Hidden 19/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
kingjam 19/Jul/17 Lead

Great route led everything finished under guide book time despite traffic

with rich a
FelixJT 17/Jul/17 Lead
with alex brighton
j.buckley87 16/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/17 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jul/17 AltLd
ClimberJimmyB 15/Jul/17 AltLd
Lakesben 14/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Bear
pete1993 12/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

simul climbed for all apart from the crux pitches, really good, not using lifts makes it a good length day

with David
Sarah Roscoe 11/Jul/17 AltLd
Matt Harmon 11/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Simulation climbed most of it, pitched the harder sections. Not quite good enough weather to carry on up the peigne

DomTe 06/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Rob and Kel

BenCollis 05/Jul/17 AltLd
JonoDHawkins 04/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Moved together for the most part, lead both 5c pitches. Great climbing and finished in just a bit over 3 hours. Took the wrong crack system before the letter box pitch (after some confusion over what a 'letterbox' looks like).

with Ash
Ashley King 04/Jul/17 AltLd

Amazing route. Loved it, second crux is lots of fun and the easier pitches moving along the arete are all great. Would advise bringing lots of cams!

BushwackerBritz 03/Jul/17 Lead O/S
R0BJ0N 03/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Dominic Teichmann, Kellie Grice
neal 26/Jun/17 AltLd

From bivvy on plan. Mixture of pitching and moving together, in big boots. Lovely route.

with Stuart Mcleod
piken 23/Jun/17 -

carried 60m 9mm rope - climbed on it double - perfect for the abseil. wires 5 upwards - friends 1.5 - 3 Early lift 7.20, started climbing at 8.10 at the abseil by 11:30 back at the plan lift by 12:30

with Joss Thompson
janegallwey 22/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
a_m154 19/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

4.5 hours. Cracking route, I led slab 5c and 5b and last 5a. Andy led letterbox section which felt harder than 5c free, more like 6a/+. Moved together on everything but 5b,c pitches. Nightmare descent- ended up doing two abs and some sketchy scrambling to get down!

with andyov
IanHope 18/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Bruce goodlad
alexmcmillan 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Busy day out, so we ended up pitching more the route than we would have liked and just caught the last cable car down (not before throwing my phone off the mountain)! Good route and awesome letterbox pitch nonetheless!

with Paige Jensen
eoindaly2 12/Jun/17 2nd O/S
Munkynutz 10/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Excellent route, fantastic day.Mark ropegunned and I seconded. Ensure you step right around the corner on P11, excellent flakes hiding out of sight. Wore Rockshoes throughout. Other groups stopped at P11 to change from boots.

markflanagan 10/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Whopper day out. Climb fast and move together when you can!

vanbe052 ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
upupup ??/2017 AltLd O/S

fantastic route

jamieevans ??/2017 -
Hidden 23/Sep/16 -
steve7734 23/Sep/16 AltLd β
Hidden 02/Sep/16 AltLd
amuirheadsmith 02/Sep/16 AltLd
JoeCoxson 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Awesome ridgeline. Lead up to the letterbox and through the crux in one pitch by accident, which was an excellent bit of climbing. Finished by midday, and then there were beers.

rfleal 27/Aug/16 -
Chuck 24/Aug/16 AltLd
Pero 24/Aug/16 AltLd
Bryan M 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

The Letterbox pitch lives up to its reputation. Wonderful.

with Pero
BobHoliday 21/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

First alpine route for me after 20 years off. First multi-pitch climb ever for my partner. Unsurprisingly we were too slow and a little after frigging up the first 5c (with insitu peg and sling) we rapped off to the right down a couloir, and spent a night in the cave behind Lac Bleu. Unless you're moving together, or extremely speedy, the guidebook time is very optimistic!

with WillyB
w-watson 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
chris_B 30/Jul/16 AltLd
with Adam Martin
Rob Royle 26/Jul/16 2nd

Fantastic route, was quite busy but still very enjoyable!!

with Seb (Mountain Guide)
Hidden 21/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/16 AltLd
joe_lancs 10/Jul/16 AltLd
Joel Miller 01/Jul/16 AltLd
Remyveness 01/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Great route, downclimbed then abbed off at the 4th gendarme! Really nice rock, set off early, from the lowest start but moved relatively slowly, only just made the bin lift after starting the abbs down at 5:25!! (got a little lost mid route and ended up climbing a tough corner pitch from a bolted belay with very little in terms of gear...)

Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Adam_42 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

After a previously aborted attempt due to running out of time, we scrambled the first section to start at the letterbox pitch. Swung leads to the summit with Dave taking the awkward step across and me landing the crux after some confusion on the finish of a previous pitch. Amazing climbing and a great day out, only slightly ruined by the long walk down after missing the final lift.

DaveThexton 06/Sep/15 AltLd
Si 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
benclimbing 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Would be nails in big boots! Happy to have rock shoes on crux pitch. Wish we had chalk as well! No need for crampons or axe as the descent was dry. We had double 60m ropes but a single would have been adequate. Felt a shame to not go to the summit but there just wasn't long enough if going from the first lift to the last lift

with graham boistelle
OliverRoss 23/Aug/15 Lead
JessWilliams 23/Aug/15 2nd dnf
Ken Applegate 11/Aug/15 AltLd

Had intentions of climbing the Contamine-Vaucher, but miscommunication the night before meant that we only had a single 60m rope between us, which wouldn't have allowed abseiling the face, so this was our consolation route, and a good value consolation route it was! Good fun all the way.

with Andy Barker
Andrew Barker 11/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Really good climbing with some worryingly large hollow flakes. Tough in big boots.

EllieWoods 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with pete belfield
chapmand 28/Jul/15 AltLd dnf

3 teams ahead moving slowly theough the crux. So we abbed off.

hlegge 23/Jul/15 AltLd dnf

started route too low accidentally and got lost on the 2nd pillar thinking we were on 4th pillar and crux pitch. ended up in an orangy overhung corner which was far harder than what we should have been on (a 4b pitch round the corner). ended up running out of time and bailed.

with Dom Pearce
HP9 17/Jul/15 AltLd

Lead the crux pitch and the first chimney. 1st class rock

with Ales Cesen
buzby78 12/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Jess
Jenn_Stretton 09/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Nicola Hughes
Petarghh 07/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/15 AltLd dnf
HosteDenis ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S

simulclimbed everything

Brucemacrosson ?/Jul/15 AltLd

D 4c trad

with Luke Smithwick
tunnah 26/Jun/15 AltLd
CMoore 26/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
niallsash 23/Jun/15 -
niallsash 18/Jun/15 AltLd
with davkeo
davkeo 18/Jun/15 AltLd rpt

3hrs. Block leads. Cracking day. Bum slide down snow slope on descent.

davkeo 11/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Brilliant day in fantastic surroundings and blue sky weather. Easy climbing with a nice crux pitch.

kdo 11/Jun/15 AltLd

Felt at home on this, (did most of it with Niamh the previous year) nice route, not to busy, good mix of technical and comfortable for the start of the trip.

Hugh Simons 06/Jun/15 AltLd

Amazing day on stunning rock. Very pleasant climbing in great positions.

with Daniel Grierson
calumhicks 06/Jun/15 Lead

Really engrossing climbing and fantastic situations! The letterbox pitch was superb

with Adam Harris
Euan Todd 05/Jun/15 AltLd dnf

Went off route at the 2nd tower, ended up on a pitch way too hard for the route. Shame, as the climbing was great!

with Ali
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
pow22 11/Sep/14 2nd O/S

With Rick.

Matthew Martin Wsm 05/Sep/14 2nd

fantastic climb done in rock shoes, moved together on the easy pitches, wonderful positions moves and exposure, defo worth 3 stars, so pleased! done climb in 4 hours!

with dave kenyon
Clay C 05/Sep/14 AltLd

Finished last pitch in a storm. Cold and wet descent.

with George
steve_gibbs 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Verity, Hannah
67hours 05/Sep/14 AltLd
with Clay
Hidden 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
alexm198 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Climbed in approach shoes, moved together save for about 3 pitches.

with James Thompson
Hidden 02/Sep/14 -
Little AndyH 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Debbie Lee 02/Sep/14 AltLd
with Lachy, Andy
MrRiley 02/Sep/14 AltLd

A fantastic route in stunning weather! Very sociable with many teams on it. Stayed in the plan de l'aiguille hut after which was excellent

with Richard Hines
Hidden ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Timothy Miller 17/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/14 -
Hidden 10/Aug/14 AltLd
ndraper1 01/Aug/14 AltLd

Moved together early on then pitched the majority of the harder parts. Found it exposed! Cruz felt pretty stiff as well but all in all some great climbing and a true mountaineering adventure winding up and around gendarmes. Wanted to continue to the peigne but got stuck in traffic. Would have been too slow anyway its longer than you think!

matty123 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Mr. K 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
jogle03 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Started in moving together, but eventually we got stuck behind parties, and pitched till the end since. I lead the 2 cruxes free. On our descent we missed the best line and ended up abseiling for (additional) 2 pitches immediately before reaching the snow-field. Nice little route! I have reliased if one wants to summit after this in a day, they have to be pretty fast.

with Kyle
Pete_Frost 16/Jul/14 AltLd

Repeat ascent but in big boots this time: totally different proposition - very strenuous! Top tip: instead of climbing the wall on the 3rd tower, drop down to the right and climb the flakes instead it's a jugfest and huge fun!

with Ash Fusiarski
Hidden 03/Jul/14 AltLd
DigitalSteak 03/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Great route, went back to finish it off in glorious weather. Led the crux.

nmcgreen 01/Jul/14 AltLd
with kdo
kdo 01/Jul/14 AltLd

lots of people climbing, we got some good abseil practise though

Nemmie ?/Jul/14 -
benkelsey 29/Jun/14 AltLd β

Ran out of lift days so walked up from Valley. moved together for most of it and were back in the valley by 2pm including running down from the half way. Jake took the gear on the lift both ways. good effort to Tom and Anna, quality route.

JakeWShaw 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Ace route, moved together for quite a bit, Ben probably led 2/3's. Easily made the lift back down!

DigitalSteak 28/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Up to half way before hail stopped play.

machars 28/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Bailed halfway.

with Charley
Anna duckett 26/Jun/14 AltLd
with Tom
Teappleby 26/Jun/14 AltLd

Got first lift to plan. Walked in a bit too far round to the left and ended up doing a bolted pitch to gain the ridge again. Great climbing all the way, got slowed down by a party ahead at the first 5c move, it took them an hour! Anna then led it quickly afterwards and I led the letterbox and the 5b at the top. 16 pitches and topped out about 19:00. Then we must have missed the descent because we came down a gully onto the Pelerins glacier, it was 7 abs and aload of sketchy downclimbing between them, obviously some else had done this before though because there was tat all the way. The second to last ab was terrifying because it was off a tiny, slopey, spike about 2-3 inches high! and then when I pulled the ropes they ran fine and the knot came down, but then the end wedged solid and eventually had to chop it and do the final ab on 1 rope. Descended the glacier and finally got into bivi bags at plan about 1am. By the time we had got up, walked down, bought some food and got the bus home, it was 29 hours from campsite to campsite! A really great route, was really fun and a real alpine adventure!

joelevanschamonix 25/Jun/14 2nd β

with Emily roo
Hidden 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S
BushwackerBritz ?/Jun/14 Solo dnf

Maybe bit off a little much to chew following Brette up here, done in Boots with a Pack on. Got up to P4 then decided to down climb to catch the last Lift which we just made it back for!

with Brette Harrington
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 07/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
simondunf 07/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

letterbox pitch particularily gd

with caspar
mrmattwright 05/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Started late, was not long before the big boots came off, Fletch lead letterbox pitch very nicely. Finished in the dark at 9pm then abbed down, finding the right descent route after some scrambling around and got to the glacier (solid) at midnight, a warm starry night helped the atmos.

with Adrian Fletcher
guy757 23/Aug/13 -
with Vic
HimTiggins 22/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
with Danny
A Crook 14/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Sublime route, great day out. Mainly pretty easy with a few steps of English 4b / 4c, and one pitch that felt 5a and a very short pull of 5b.

frost 14/Aug/13 AltLd
with Adam, D Garry
Hidden 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Palindrome 06/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Ben Briggs 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Toby
Jack00 ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Edd Carrigan
Ed carrigan ?/Aug/13 -
Vincej ?/Aug/13 2nd
with Cyril
jimmatthews 28/Jul/13 AltLd
with Joe Toller
Michael 22/Jul/13 -
planetmarshall 17/Jul/13 2nd

Only people on the route.

spragglerocks 16/Jul/13 AltLd
with Ben
Batt 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
SteveM 14/Jul/13 AltLd

French free in big boots

with Tobs
alan1234 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Eirik Nordli
Gumery 01/Jul/13 -
with Forshaw
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd
Dave Almond 16/Jun/13 AltLd

Nice intro for Nicole and nice intro to altitude. Would have been good to catch the lift off but a meal at the plan hut and a walk down in the setting sun made it more bearable.

Nicole Almond 16/Jun/13 2nd

Great climb to start off a first alpine trip, would've been better if we hadn't had missed the lift and had to walk all the way back down to chamonix but still had a great day.

with Dad
James Thacker ??/2013 -
mux ??/2013 AltLd O/S
with frost
jcw ??/2013 -
walts4 ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
Hidden 17/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/12 AltLd
JKBowers 20/Aug/12 AltLd

Got half way along, rap of due to storm

with Dilan Pathmajothy
Hidden 17/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/12 AltLd
Andy Can68 10/Aug/12 -
mickd ?/Aug/12 Lead

Led every pitch .The crux is badly polished but handily full of tat. Learned about overtaking policys. Whoever climbs the fastest....Wins!

Hidden ?/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Ollie B 26/Jul/12 -
with T.Livinstone
Martin Bennett 22/Jul/12 -
with Alexandre George, Ali
Hidden 19/Jul/12 AltLd
Les Ross 19/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
csalvage 22/Jun/12 2nd
with Bryan
Hidden 09/Jun/12 -
Adam Booth 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Then followed normal route to the summit...

gowla 01/Sep/11 AltLd
with adam booth
gingernick ?/Sep/11 AltLd

Great climb lots of people

Hidden 21/Aug/11 -
Hidden 21/Aug/11 -
Hidden 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
The Mountain Goat 15/Aug/11 2nd
Somerset swede basher 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 04/Aug/11 AltLd
darren hudson 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

started at the right of the foot up bolted route, which is not the start and a bit harder. very nice climb especially the flakes at the top. Ab out but don't pack the ropes as there's a walk then another ab. We learnt the hard way! Camped at the lac as missed the last cable car.

with David Ford
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
mark schramm 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with tom m
tommoulds 12/Jul/11 AltLd
with Schramm
Adi Hooper 12/Jul/11 AltLd
with Roger Ward
Hidden 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Julli 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Noora S.
RKernan 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
JRSB1991 ?/Jul/11 -
theo.mooney ?/Jul/11 -
d_meacher ?/Jul/11 Lead
with Gill Byrne
chrissloan84 ??/2011 Lead
with paul
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -

First route of a trip - nice but felt harder than many years ago ...

with Geoff Thomas
PHILD 29/Aug/10 2nd

Butterflies ridge, very apt!! An offering of one of Alex's quickdraws ensured safe passage. Quality route, highly recommended.

Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead
tumbling wizard ?/Aug/10 -
with andrew marshall
johnmctighe 16/Jul/10 2nd
with Stephan
Hidden 09/Jul/10 Lead
Neil D 02/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
BorisVBlade 02/Jul/10 AltLd

Nice route. At the end of the route, we carried on to the top of Aid du Paigne along the North Ridge, however had to turn back about 50m below the summit as bad weather was coming in.

robinsi197 ?/Jul/10 AltLd
with Nick
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
thebigeasy ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
alancash100 ??/2010 AltLd
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
Hidden 26/Aug/09 2nd
inuklm 23/Aug/09 -
with Dave Gent
Henrik 17/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Josef
david0811 13/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Great little climb. started late and ended up spending the night on the ledges under the Ticket.

with Mark Reid
davidgent 10/Aug/09 -
with Kunal
oldgrey ?/Aug/09 -

I found it tricky, but several French grannies in wheelchairs seemed to skate up it...

with Virgil Scott
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Kyuzo ?/Aug/09 -
Phil Jennings 28/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
Hidden 28/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Andy Clarke 26/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Very enjoyable climbing on a lovely sunny day. Made it easy to put up with waiting at the belays while the over-equipped (peg hammers!) team in front of us dogged their way up. Too easy unfortunately - got to the top of the traditional descent and realised we wouldn't make the last 'phrique down from Plan de l'Aiguille. This was after having shaken our heads at the teams taking the easy (and quick) way out down the bolted routes on the Peigne slabs. Traditional descent turned out to be a chossy couloir followed by an unexpected snow slope. Not easy to negotiate in our trainers. Hadn't bothered with crampons or axes. Under-equipped maybe? Hmmm. Time for a rather uncomfortable "seated glissade." Two very foot and arse sore alpinists finally made it back to car around 10 pm.

with Rob
HimTiggins 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Moved together for most part. Seconded a couple of pitches ...

with Eero & Bart
tebs 25/Jul/09 -

Moved together - Eero led the way as a)he was much better than us and b)he'd done it before

with Tim and Eero
Hidden 16/Jul/09 2nd
Pat-H 14/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Glyn 04/Jul/09 -
with David Fountain and Jonny
davefount ?/Jul/09 AltLd

Rained on descent

with Glyn and Jonny
Neil D ?/Jul/09 AltLd rpt

+ James Waldron

Tobias at Home 13/Jun/09 -

planned on going to the summit but cold beers won the day.

mathquirk 25/May/09 Lead

Missed the last 'pherique again!

with Babu Blatt
tim20 ??/2009 -
brockers ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with CarlZ
andysroom ??/2009 Lead dnf

Hurray for Blizzard Bags!

Mathijs ??/2009 -
reima ??/2009 AltLd

Started off at the next buttress and did a few pitches of more interesting climbing first before meeting the route. Learned some lessons on overtaking here. A bit too crowded for my tastes.

with Nora, Niamh
Hidden 11/Sep/08 AltLd
featuresforfeet 31/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Matthallinan 03/Aug/08 AltLd
MoWalker3 01/Aug/08 AltLd
with Quiet Ian
Mark Walter ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Becwith
JonHarvey ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Lee Bonner
dan gibson 27/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with sam read
Hidden 11/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 06/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead
tom.e 31/Jul/07 -
Hidden 29/Jul/07 Lead
Paul-Michael 17/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

From Chaminix made good time. V

with Paul Nurse
Hidden 16/Jul/07 AltLd
Ian JL ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Mr Powly ?/Jul/07 -
Hidden 29/Jun/07 AltLd rpt
rwm7131 23/Jun/07 AltLd
with JamesA
Hidden 23/Jun/07 AltLd
Bristoldave ??/2007 AltLd
with douglas
Hidden 10/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Nicos 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Peter Metcalfe 09/Sep/06 AltLd

Thin 5+ move halfway up can be frigged as necessary using guides' tat; letterbox pitch a solid UK VS. Superb.

with Mike Weighleigh
Hidden 05/Sep/06 AltLd
Brian Birtle 03/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Jon
Hidden ?/Sep/06 -
Hidden 31/Aug/06 AltLd
Ross Barnes 29/Jul/06 AltLd
with Andy I
Kyuzo ?/Jul/06 AltLd
mattyork2 ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Josh Bakker-Dyos
andyinglis 29/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Stuart Johnston 22/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
hal ?/Jun/06 AltLd
ashpreston ??/2006 -
edek_w ?/Sep/05 -
Smelly Fox 13/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Sion Brocklehurst
feilx ?/Jul/05 -
with Dan (welsh)
Hidden ?/Jul/05 -
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with Will Barbour
chrissloan84 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with Sim
Yyonnx 20/Jun/05 AltLd

A nice outting, especially the crux "letterbox" pitch. Actually, the first pitch ended with a tight chimney that was also good fun. The descent sucked as it started to rain and Philipe almost died as what we were using for a rap anchor came tumbling down on top of him! Somehow he escaped with only major bruises and we down-climbed the rest of the wet, slippery slopes having missed the last car down, continued on down to the valley.

with Tom Fralich
David Horwood 20/Jun/05 -
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead rpt
SteveM 04/Jun/04 AltLd

Pitched. Backed off at the midway couloir

with Tobs
LardClimber ?/Jun/04 -
Stone Muppet ??/2004 -
220bpm ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Dave
tom.e ?/Aug/03 2nd O/S
AnnaBacklund ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
SteveM 04/Jun/03 AltLd dnf

Backed off down a grotty couloir but made it to the last lift with time to spare!

with Tobs
mike.moss ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with James Sample
liz j ?/Sep/02 2nd
with neil brodie
Mark Salter 18/Aug/02 AltLd
with Chris Shorrock
plain kitten ?/Jul/02 Lead


TobyA ?/Aug/01 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Adams
dan gibson ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
ian bryant 14/Jun/01 Lead dnf
with walter
prcleary ??/2000 -
Climbster 10/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with UTMC
bladderedagain ?/Jul/99 AltLd
nige pacer ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
DerwentDiluted ?/Aug/98 AltLd
with Tim Stain
daveyb 20/Sep/97 AltLd
epic ed ?/Aug/97 Lead

Missed last car down and had to walk back to Cham in the dark with no torch Early lesson learnt.

Guy ?/Aug/97 -
Hidden ?/Jul/97 AltLd
Laramadness 26/Jul/96 -
with Steve Munton
Climbingspike ??/1996 -
tjekel ??/1995 -
francois ??/1995 2nd

Done with a guide in the 1990's

craig h ?/Aug/94 AltLd
with Jim Mellor
Hidden ?/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/94 AltLd
alkira 07/Aug/93 -
with bruce goodlad
Hidden 03/Aug/93 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/93 Solo
Hidden 26/Aug/91 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/91 -
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/91 AltLd

Loads of fun. One pitch overhung but the holds were like a stack of dinner plates - perfect.

Hidden ?/Jul/91 AltLd O/S
Tim Sparrow ?/Jul/91 -

Gorgeous day!

with Chris D
Budge ??/1991 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Hidden ?/Sep/90 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/90 Lead
AndrewP ?/Aug/89 AltLd
pauldrew ?/Aug/89 AltLd
with Jim Hart
BigHairyIan 06/Aug/88 AltLd O/S

Got overtaken by a guide and his party, they clipped our gear on the route and used our belays... I wasn't entirely happy with the situation, but have since learned that British manners have a place only in Britain and posh American Restaurants. In the Alps, no one waits for anyone: deal with it! Great Day out though!

steve taylor ?/Aug/88 -

Alps - not my cup of tea at all!

with Dave Gilkes
auld al ?/Aug/88 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/88 AltLd
jon 26/Jul/88 AltLd
with Jamie
michael burrows 25/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
with steve williams
Hidden 20/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
John Marsland ?/Aug/87 -

1 hour

with Dave Soles
Hidden 02/Aug/86 AltLd O/S
Guy ?/Aug/86 -
Bruce Kerr 22/Jul/86 AltLd
with Grahame Nicoll
ill_bill 11/Jul/86 -

with Colin Lennox

Hidden ?/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
eroica64 11/Sep/85 AltLd

In big boots - duh! Should have been in rock shoes. Walked all way back down to Chamonix after minor row with John.

with John Graeme
John Marsland 12/Aug/85 Solo

Used two 8 foot slings for pro.

Hidden ?/Aug/85 -
Tony Ryland 13/Jul/85 AltLd

Rick fell near top Had to ab off

Robmwatt ??/1984 AltLd
with Gaz Morgan
andy tetsill ?/Aug/83 AltLd
with Richard
Neil McA 10/Aug/82 AltLd

Papillons / North Ridge combo, excellent! 6 hours in total

with Steve Hartland
Hidden ?/Aug/82 -
Lone Rider ??/1982 Solo O/S
John Marsland ??/1982 -
with Andy Veveris and Chris Broad
alpinist63 ?/Aug/81 -
bobelvedere 14/Aug/80 Lead
with Lene Vestergaard
Richard Weller ?/Aug/80 -
with Richard White
Hidden ?/Aug/80 -
Rob Davies ?/Aug/80 Lead

Climbed in reasonable time. Descent in dry, sunny conditions was easy.

with Mike Papworth
mark-abz ?/Aug/80 AltLd
with ?
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/79 -
leland stamper ?/Aug/79 AltLd

First big alpine rock route

with Hugh Grandfield
Andy Say ?/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
beaumap ?/Jul/79 Lead
with Stan Tanner
Paul Clarke ??/1979 Solo

Solo alongside NMUC Team

with Duncan and Murray, MMI
Hidden ?/Aug/78 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul/78 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul/78 AltLd
Mark Kemball ?/Aug/76 AltLd
with Bill Wheeler
Bolt Phobia 04/Aug/75 Lead rpt
with Kit Spencer, Nicole
Steve Woollard 15/Aug/74 Lead
with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker
Bolt Phobia 15/Aug/74 Lead
with Steve Woollard
Rob Davies ?/Aug/74 AltLd dnf

Abandoned after a few pitches due to over-crowding - 18 people on one ledge

with Joseph Cullen (ICMC)
mikej ?/Aug/69 AltLd
with Martin Wragg
uphillnow ??/1966 Lead
with Paul Clark
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