12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 250m. A brilliant route which takes in a variety of pitches through some amazing terrain at an amenable grade - this is a 'must do' for anyone operating at this level. There is a bolted belay above the crux pitch but otherwise the belays are not in place. However, there are plenty of spikes on the route and virtually every stance has a something on it that you can put a sling around to belay off. Given the popularity of the route amongst mountain guides, it seems likely that bolts may be added in the future but for now, count on building your own belays. The route is described in pitches but, if you are to do it in good time (3-4 hours is about right), then you will need to move together on easier sections or climb very quickly and efficiently. There are numerous variations on the easier sections of the route, so as long as you find the key pitches (4 and 11), don't worry too much about the exact line you take elsewhere.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille follow a vague path leading directly to the foot of the ridge. This is hard to follow but even if you lose it, just make for the foot of the route and you shouldn't go far wrong. The closer you get to the route, the more the approach becomes a scramble across a boulderfield but route finding is still easy enough.
1) 4a. Having reached the foot of the ridge, move onto the right of it and climb a series of easy cracks and slabs to reach the foot of a short, steep corner with two jammed blocks in it.
2) 5b. Climb the corner, which is more thuggish than hard, and follow the ridge crest for 5m, past some fun and exposed moves, to the bottom of a series of parallel cracks.
3) 4c. Climb the cracks and step left at the top to regain the ridge crest. Follow this for 10m to reach a ledge.
4) 5c. Follow the ridge for a few metres and downclimb slightly to reach a 1m wide gap which separates the ridge from the wall across from it. Take a deep breath and step across the gap before making a few steep moves onto easier ground. There are some pegs to protect this move and these are often used for aid. Continue left up the easier ground to a belay with an excellent view of the move across the gap.
5) 4b. Head along the ridge crest to reach some grassy ledges.
6) 4b. Climb easy but fun slabs, drifting leftwards, to the foot of a steep corner, just left of the ridge crest.
7) 4c. Climb the corner, which is steep and satisfying.
8) 4b. Move onto the right of the ridge and follow easy but exposed ground to a niche below a slab.
9) 4c. Climb up and left across slabs to reach a cracked wall directly below the 'letter box' gap between two rock walls.
10) 4c. Climb the excellent wall to reach the 'letter box' and a good belay on a jammed block.
11) 5c. Exit the letter box rightwards and climb a steep corner protected by pegs. Where this steepens further, make a committing step right around a rib and then carry on up a still steep but easier flakes to a large ledge.
12) 4b. Follow the ridge as it descends to a niche below a slab.
13) 5b. Climb the slab and belay just below the ridge crest.
14) 4a. Follow the ridge, staying a couple of metres below the crest, to a junction with Les Lepidoptères.
15) 5a. Continue along just to the left of the ridge crest and then get onto the crest itself after 10m via a steep little pull up over a bulge. Continue more easily on the crest.
16) 4a. Follow the exposed but easy ridge to a notch above a steep corner on the right of the ridge.
Descent - Either continue to the summit via the Peigne Normal Route if time allows, or make a 25m abseil down a steep corner south of (and directly below) the final belay to reach the Papillons Couloir which forms the start of the Peigne Normal Route. Scramble down here past one further abseil. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic route, good for a half-day's outting. Can be pretty crowded at times. Small rack of Friends and nuts required. Some in situ gear on the hardest sections. Does not top out so will have to combine with other routes if the summit is what you are after. Enjoy the "letterbox" pitch!

K Gurekian, L Pez and A Subut 10/Sep/1948

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+), Alpine Dreamz, Epic Rock Europe

Feedback

UserDateNotes
jaderosanne 30 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Amazing!! First 5c across the step was definitely the crux, second 5c pitch was fine. Had to glissade a snow patch on the descent as we had no crampons but it was pretty steady.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing!! First 5c across the step was definitely the crux, second 5c pitch was fine. Had to glissade a snow patch on the descent as we had no crampons but it was pretty steady.
robburgundy 24 Jul Show βeta
βeta: We simuled all but about 4/5 pitches. Pete lead most pitches. I did 1or 2.
 
Show beta
βeta: We simuled all but about 4/5 pitches. Pete lead most pitches. I did 1or 2.
Ian Lemon 8 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Awesome day, led the cruxes. The descent was a bit awkward, take second abseil further down the couloir on the right then try to stay left for easier ground I think. Finish descent to snowline by taking path dropping left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome day, led the cruxes. The descent was a bit awkward, take second abseil further down the couloir on the right then try to stay left for easier ground I think. Finish descent to snowline by taking path dropping left.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Simon Allcock 11 Aug AltLd O/S Fantastic route. Camped at the Plan, 7am on route in mid traffic, top at 1pm. Mad exposure on letterbox and hits of ridge
with Chris
Fantastic route. Camped at the Plan, 7am on route in mid traffic, top at 1pm. Mad exposure on letterbox and hits of ridge
with Chris
janegallwey 10 Aug AltLd Just as good the second time round. Atmospheric clouds and not a soul on the climb. Started at 3pm due to morning rain then bivvyed near the lift.
Just as good the second time round. Atmospheric clouds and not a soul on the climb. Started at 3pm due to morning rain then bivvyed near the lift.
Johnathan 5 Aug 2nd O/S
Goran Glumac 4 Aug AltLd O/S Nice pitch is the letterbox. Not hard at all. Crowded
Nice pitch is the letterbox. Not hard at all. Crowded
K Mckay 3 Aug AltLd O/S 5hrs lift to lift. Moved together. The 5c letterbox pitch is quality.
with Paul Gibbison
5hrs lift to lift. Moved together. The 5c letterbox pitch is quality.
with Paul Gibbison
philgillespie 1 Aug AltLd
GrayGPT 31 Jul -
benji landau 31 Jul -
with Dan Dan
with Dan Dan
jaderosanne 30 Jul -
paul horabin 28 Jul AltLd
Hidden 24 Jul AltLd
Johno81 24 Jul AltLd O/S
with EIF
with EIF
Hidden 24 Jul AltLd
rurp 24 Jul Lead Crux pretty hard. 6a free. Like a super commando ridge! Ran out of water at bivi. Started route last, finished first. Peeing mustard.
with ben rowland
Crux pretty hard. 6a free. Like a super commando ridge! Ran out of water at bivi. Started route last, finished first. Peeing mustard.
with ben rowland
ned_85 23 Jul AltLd
with Senna
with Senna
Senna 23 Jul AltLd
with ned_85
with ned_85
Pete Scott 22 Jul AltLd Great fun, first real simul climbing.
Great fun, first real simul climbing.
robburgundy 22 Jul AltLd
Seán Fortune 21 Jul AltLd
with adoran
with adoran
adoran 21 Jul AltLd O/S Simuled in an hour and a half before trying to find our way up the south-west ridge. Friendly parties let us pass at belays. Descent unenjoyable, should have looked at the topo properly
Simuled in an hour and a half before trying to find our way up the south-west ridge. Friendly parties let us pass at belays. Descent unenjoyable, should have looked at the topo properly
BarneyLoosemore 20 Jul AltLd O/S
Tiktianc 20 Jul Lead O/S Insight led every pitch, except held piece while reaching around exposed corner on pitch 11 Rock shoes
Insight led every pitch, except held piece while reaching around exposed corner on pitch 11 Rock shoes
Charlotte Russell 20 Jul AltLd
QuentinSu 18 Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Jul AltLd
Hidden 16 Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Jul AltLd O/S
Aled Williams 14 Jul -
with Calum
with Calum
Jack Manfredi 12 Jul AltLd
with Dad
with Dad
BStar 8 Jul AltLd O/S Wow this was hard work. First lift up, got in the queue, then some rude French guides climbed over everyone which slowed everyone down including them. The route was good, certainly pitched more than I’d wished. Lots of rope drag/jams that slow things up. Super enjoyable day, psyched to have climbed it but was more than I’d expected. Probably high VS/HVS but you kind of have to move together over some very tricky ground. Top tip; Move fast and don’t be too polite when people climb all over your ropes
Wow this was hard work. First lift up, got in the queue, then some rude French guides climbed over everyone which slowed everyone down including them. The route was good, certainly pitched more than I’d wished. Lots of rope drag/jams that slow things up. Super enjoyable day, psyched to have climbed it but was more than I’d expected. Probably high VS/HVS but you kind of have to move together over some very tricky ground. Top tip; Move fast and don’t be too polite when people climb all over your ropes
Rachael88 8 Jul AltLd
with BStar
with BStar
Hidden 8 Jul AltLd dnf
Ian Lemon 8 Jul AltLd O/S Awesome day, led the cruxes. The descent was a bit awkward, take second abseil further down the couloir on the right then try to stay left for easier ground I think. Finish decent to snowline by taking path dropping left.
with Jamie
Awesome day, led the cruxes. The descent was a bit awkward, take second abseil further down the couloir on the right then try to stay left for easier ground I think. Finish decent to snowline by taking path dropping left.
with Jamie
Matt Boyd 8 Jul AltLd dnf Route was extremely crowded, ended up bailing due to the efforts of French guides dragging their bumbling clients over the top of everyone and then processing to either get stuck and have to link up with anothekr guide, or their clients taking an age to second then on the crux pitches... Needles to say, had they been patient everyone would have had a lovely days climbing, instead they added to the traffic jam by half pitching between groups and causing more of an issue than the one slow party at the front, which could have been easily passed by us and numerous other groups given half the chance!
with Neil Dickson
Route was extremely crowded, ended up bailing due to the efforts of French guides dragging their bumbling clients over the top of everyone and then processing to either get stuck and have to link up with anothekr guide, or their clients taking an age to second then on the crux pitches... Needles to say, had they been patient everyone would have had a lovely days climbing, instead they added to the traffic jam by half pitching between groups and causing more of an issue than the one slow party at the front, which could have been easily passed by us and numerous other groups given half the chance!
with Neil Dickson
Chris Manasseh 5 Jul 2nd Guided
Guided
Hidden 1 Jul AltLd
James Milton 1 Jul AltLd O/S Moved together for most of the route. Amazing crux pitch
with GGD
Moved together for most of the route. Amazing crux pitch
with GGD
Giles Eperon 1 Jul AltLd Simulclimbed everything except the two cruxy bits. Took about 3h. Great route, just pure fun!
Simulclimbed everything except the two cruxy bits. Took about 3h. Great route, just pure fun!
Hidden 1 Jul AltLd rpt
bowlingj 28 Jun 2nd O/S
JohnHartley 28 Jun Lead O/S Good day out!
Good day out!
CharleyAnn 27 Jun AltLd
joegrainger 27 Jun 2nd
with Gav Pike
with Gav Pike
robgixer 27 Jun AltLd O/S
carr0t 25 Jun -
Cbulman 25 Jun Lead O/S
John1458 25 Jun AltLd O/S A mix of moving together and pitching, a rather long day stuck behind a guide and clients, soggy approach shoes on the walk down in the very soft snow!
A mix of moving together and pitching, a rather long day stuck behind a guide and clients, soggy approach shoes on the walk down in the very soft snow!
iainJ 24 Jun AltLd
Robbie Blease 24 Jun AltLd Very nice, 5 hours bin to bin.
with Chris Ensoll
Very nice, 5 hours bin to bin.
with Chris Ensoll
tradisrad 24 Jun Lead O/S Fantastic route. Nice way to celebrate Will’s 21st birthday.
Fantastic route. Nice way to celebrate Will’s 21st birthday.
Tom Fullen 24 Jun AltLd O/S One of my favourite Alpine routes to date. Moved together for the whole route except a couple of belays to restock the rack. The descent turned out to be more of a faff than expected because of the gully being a slush chute.
with iainJ, roym
One of my favourite Alpine routes to date. Moved together for the whole route except a couple of belays to restock the rack. The descent turned out to be more of a faff than expected because of the gully being a slush chute.
with iainJ, roym
roym 24 Jun AltLd Good fun moving together for the whole route. Very sociable day out. Descent was a faff, seems the best line was to keep left looking down.
Good fun moving together for the whole route. Very sociable day out. Descent was a faff, seems the best line was to keep left looking down.
Will Sherwood 24 Jun 2nd O/S Fab route! Descent was a suffer fest and I had a miserable hour or so in the couloir with a duff crampon and slushy sh*te on the down climb. Overall a good 21st birthday with Ross!
Fab route! Descent was a suffer fest and I had a miserable hour or so in the couloir with a duff crampon and slushy sh*te on the down climb. Overall a good 21st birthday with Ross!
WillHempstead 17 Jun AltLd
with Rob Giddy , iainballantyne
with Rob Giddy , iainballantyne
iainballantyne 17 Jun AltLd
Robertgiddy 17 Jun AltLd Route to ourselves! All rock dry but snow/ice gear needed for approach/descent which is perhaps why it was so quiet?
Route to ourselves! All rock dry but snow/ice gear needed for approach/descent which is perhaps why it was so quiet?
Hidden 7 Jun AltLd O/S
mchardski 18 Sep, 2018 AltLd
with Amy Soska
with Amy Soska
Tom Stoddart 15 Sep, 2018 AltLd Climbed in big boots. Climbed slowly!
with Iain Leverett
Climbed in big boots. Climbed slowly!
with Iain Leverett
Jtanderson11 12 Sep, 2018 Lead Got in line for this classic! Most parties simuled and moved fast but it still piled up on the harder pitches. Took us 5 hours and we were behind 5 parties. 1.5-2 hours to get back to the cable car.
with Em
Got in line for this classic! Most parties simuled and moved fast but it still piled up on the harder pitches. Took us 5 hours and we were behind 5 parties. 1.5-2 hours to get back to the cable car.
with Em
Hidden 11 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Riina Laitinen 11 Sep, 2018 2nd
oliverk 31 Aug, 2018 AltLd Justin led P4 with the gap, I led letterbox pitch 11. Poor visibility. Rain/snow started after first few pitches, increasing to constant level. Got very cold and wet and had to pull on gear on cruxes.
with Justin
Justin led P4 with the gap, I led letterbox pitch 11. Poor visibility. Rain/snow started after first few pitches, increasing to constant level. Got very cold and wet and had to pull on gear on cruxes.
with Justin
7toes 31 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Oli K
with Oli K
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
JRJones 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
DJayB 26 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Didn't really start. In hindsight a wildly optimistic outing. Everything covered in snow and still absolutely freezing. A terrible start to a pretty disastrous climbing trip
Didn't really start. In hindsight a wildly optimistic outing. Everything covered in snow and still absolutely freezing. A terrible start to a pretty disastrous climbing trip
Finn Curry 22 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Paul Warnock
with Paul Warnock
Gemmazrobo 17 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Super fun ridgy goodness, 3hrs with lunch stop
with Jake
Super fun ridgy goodness, 3hrs with lunch stop
with Jake
Hidden 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd
wheelsucker 11 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
with HW
with HW
Nickwild 8 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Julien Ravanello, Daniel Wild
with Julien Ravanello, Daniel Wild
Hidden 7 Aug, 2018 AltLd rpt
ChristyCole 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with dkilner
with dkilner
dkilner 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
birks3746 3 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S On guide book time until pitch 8 when we hit the traffic, shenanigans ensued
with Phil
On guide book time until pitch 8 when we hit the traffic, shenanigans ensued
with Phil
Hidden 2 Aug, 2018 Lead
Fiona_H 2 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Owen
with Owen
Trace 1 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Fallow 1 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Trace
with Trace
jasewilson ?Aug, 2018 -
Hidden 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Dougbart 24 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Adrian
with Adrian
Hidden 23 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf
Jess Granatt 20 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Almaas
with Almaas
Hidden 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd β
DermotShiels 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd Fantastic quality climbing. Walked up in approach shoes. Made the usual descent and abb’d across the snow slope at the back with a full 60m abb.
with Declan Murray
Fantastic quality climbing. Walked up in approach shoes. Made the usual descent and abb’d across the snow slope at the back with a full 60m abb.
with Declan Murray
ndraper1 8 Jun, 2018 -
with Hamish, Dave
with Hamish, Dave
sanguine 25 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Did this in Winter conditions - considerably harder - lots of fun. Had to give up attempt on Petit Dru NF because of equipment failure - however, this route brought back some glory
with Jonn
Did this in Winter conditions - considerably harder - lots of fun. Had to give up attempt on Petit Dru NF because of equipment failure - however, this route brought back some glory
with Jonn
Hidden ??, 2018 -
JessWilliams 25 Sep, 2017 AltLd
with TJMGray
with TJMGray
Dexter JW 25 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
SarahA 25 Sep, 2017 AltLd Mike lead cruxes
with mmason1
Mike lead cruxes
with mmason1
Ben Costello 25 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Oliver Livesey 25 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Simil climb most except a few grade 5 pitches which dex lead
Simil climb most except a few grade 5 pitches which dex lead
Matt Amos 24 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Deary65
with Deary65
Deary65 24 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
sroelants ?Sep, 2017 -
Hidden 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
adam088 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Jon Turner, jbuoey
with Jon Turner, jbuoey
davidibex 20 Aug, 2017 -
SJPowderham1 20 Aug, 2017 -
Just Will 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
CameronH 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 13 Aug, 2017 -
Hidden 13 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Aug, 2017 -
seanhendo123 7 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Great day, moved together all the way in approach trainers, French freed the first 5c pitch but clean other than that
with Lamb
Great day, moved together all the way in approach trainers, French freed the first 5c pitch but clean other than that
with Lamb
Lamb 7 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Moved together in tennies, worked well. Both hauled at the finger lock slab crux. Continued to the summit of the Peigne via Route Normale. Made for a good day. Ten hours lift to lift. https://craiglamb.blogspot.co.uk/2017/12/chamonix-summer-2017.html
Moved together in tennies, worked well. Both hauled at the finger lock slab crux. Continued to the summit of the Peigne via Route Normale. Made for a good day. Ten hours lift to lift. https://craiglamb.blogspot.co.uk/2017/12/chamonix-summer-2017.html
Hidden 6 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Wizzy 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Classic! 2.5 hours for the route. 4.5 hours lift to lift
Classic! 2.5 hours for the route. 4.5 hours lift to lift
Sam McCarthy 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S All simul besides letterbox
with Wizzy
All simul besides letterbox
with Wizzy
Wendy Watthews 2 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Got lost on the way down and had to make some obviously little used abseils. Great route Luke lead the overhanging 5c chimney which was more than a little awkward carrying a bit bag.
Got lost on the way down and had to make some obviously little used abseils. Great route Luke lead the overhanging 5c chimney which was more than a little awkward carrying a bit bag.
lukegorman 2 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S not sure how wendy is claiming alt lead on this since i was dragging her kicking and screaming all the way. moving together for the most part
not sure how wendy is claiming alt lead on this since i was dragging her kicking and screaming all the way. moving together for the most part
Jo sumner 1 Aug, 2017 2nd
JasonOneEye 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd Excellent day out
with Eogan O'Connell
Excellent day out
with Eogan O'Connell
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 AltLd
A Reid 29 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Hoyes
with Hoyes
scottywakefield 29 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hoyes 29 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with A Reid
with A Reid
Iain_L_32 29 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Andrew Abraham 27 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Mega day out
with Paul Deane
Mega day out
with Paul Deane
Hidden 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Duncan 88 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd
kingjam 19 Jul, 2017 Lead Great route led everything finished under guide book time despite traffic
Great route led everything finished under guide book time despite traffic
FelixJT 17 Jul, 2017 Lead
with alex brighton
with alex brighton
j.buckley87 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd
ClimberJimmyB 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Lakesben 14 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Bear
with Bear
pete1993 12 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S simul climbed for all apart from the crux pitches, really good, not using lifts makes it a good length day
with drobin
simul climbed for all apart from the crux pitches, really good, not using lifts makes it a good length day
with drobin
Sarah Roscoe 11 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Matt Harmon 11 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Simulation climbed most of it, pitched the harder sections. Not quite good enough weather to carry on up the peigne
Simulation climbed most of it, pitched the harder sections. Not quite good enough weather to carry on up the peigne
AndyCook 6 Jul, 2017 AltLd
DomTe 6 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S Rob and Kel
Rob and Kel
BenCollis 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd
JonoDHawkins 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Moved together for the most part, lead both 5c pitches. Great climbing and finished in just a bit over 3 hours. Took the wrong crack system before the letter box pitch (after some confusion over what a 'letterbox' looks like).
Moved together for the most part, lead both 5c pitches. Great climbing and finished in just a bit over 3 hours. Took the wrong crack system before the letter box pitch (after some confusion over what a 'letterbox' looks like).
Ashley King 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd Amazing route. Loved it, second crux is lots of fun and the easier pitches moving along the arete are all great. Would advise bringing lots of cams!
Amazing route. Loved it, second crux is lots of fun and the easier pitches moving along the arete are all great. Would advise bringing lots of cams!
Super-Afro 3 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Nice scrabble with a pitch or two. Well worth doing.
with Matt Britz, Tom MIA
Nice scrabble with a pitch or two. Well worth doing.
with Matt Britz, Tom MIA
BushwackerBritz 3 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
R0BJ0N 3 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Dominic Teichmann, Kellie Grice
with Dominic Teichmann, Kellie Grice
neal 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd From bivvy on plan. Mixture of pitching and moving together, in big boots. Lovely route.
with Stuart Mcleod
From bivvy on plan. Mixture of pitching and moving together, in big boots. Lovely route.
with Stuart Mcleod
piken 23 Jun, 2017 - carried 60m 9mm rope - climbed on it double - perfect for the abseil. wires 5 upwards - friends 1.5 - 3 Early lift 7.20, started climbing at 8.10 at the abseil by 11:30 back at the plan lift by 12:30
with Joss Thompson
carried 60m 9mm rope - climbed on it double - perfect for the abseil. wires 5 upwards - friends 1.5 - 3 Early lift 7.20, started climbing at 8.10 at the abseil by 11:30 back at the plan lift by 12:30
with Joss Thompson
janegallwey 22 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
a_m154 19 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S 4.5 hours. Cracking route, I led slab 5c and 5b and last 5a. Andy led letterbox section which felt harder than 5c free, more like 6a/+. Moved together on everything but 5b,c pitches. Nightmare descent- ended up doing two abs and some sketchy scrambling to get down!
4.5 hours. Cracking route, I led slab 5c and 5b and last 5a. Andy led letterbox section which felt harder than 5c free, more like 6a/+. Moved together on everything but 5b,c pitches. Nightmare descent- ended up doing two abs and some sketchy scrambling to get down!
Andy Ovens - UKC and UKH 19 Jun, 2017 AltLd Decided to do the letterbox pitch without aiding... made it a tough battle. Great day, even if descent back to lift was unpleasant
with a_m154
Decided to do the letterbox pitch without aiding... made it a tough battle. Great day, even if descent back to lift was unpleasant
with a_m154
IanHope 18 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
with Bruce goodlad
with Bruce goodlad
alexmcmillan 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Busy day out, so we ended up pitching more the route than we would have liked and just caught the last cable car down (not before throwing my phone off the mountain)! Good route and awesome letterbox pitch nonetheless!
with Paige Jensen
Busy day out, so we ended up pitching more the route than we would have liked and just caught the last cable car down (not before throwing my phone off the mountain)! Good route and awesome letterbox pitch nonetheless!
with Paige Jensen
eoindaly2 12 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Munkynutz 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Excellent route, fantastic day.Mark ropegunned and I seconded. Ensure you step right around the corner on P11, excellent flakes hiding out of sight. Wore Rockshoes throughout. Other groups stopped at P11 to change from boots.
Excellent route, fantastic day.Mark ropegunned and I seconded. Ensure you step right around the corner on P11, excellent flakes hiding out of sight. Wore Rockshoes throughout. Other groups stopped at P11 to change from boots.
markflanagan 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Whopper day out. Climb fast and move together when you can!
Whopper day out. Climb fast and move together when you can!
vanbe052 ??, 2017 -
bruce ??, 2017 -
upupup ??, 2017 AltLd O/S fantastic route
fantastic route
jamieevans ??, 2017 -
Hidden 23 Sep, 2016 -
steve7734 23 Sep, 2016 AltLd β
williemiller 2 Sep, 2016 AltLd
amuirheadsmith 2 Sep, 2016 AltLd
JoeCoxson 29 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Awesome ridgeline. Lead up to the letterbox and through the crux in one pitch by accident, which was an excellent bit of climbing. Finished by midday, and then there were beers.
Awesome ridgeline. Lead up to the letterbox and through the crux in one pitch by accident, which was an excellent bit of climbing. Finished by midday, and then there were beers.
rfleal 27 Aug, 2016 -
TRodrigues 27 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Chuck 24 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Pero 24 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Bryan M 24 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S The Letterbox pitch lives up to its reputation. Wonderful.
with Pero
The Letterbox pitch lives up to its reputation. Wonderful.
with Pero
BobHoliday 21 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S First alpine route for me after 20 years off. First multi-pitch climb ever for my partner. Unsurprisingly we were too slow and a little after frigging up the first 5c (with insitu peg and sling) we rapped off to the right down a couloir, and spent a night in the cave behind Lac Bleu. Unless you're moving together, or extremely speedy, the guidebook time is very optimistic!
with WillyB
First alpine route for me after 20 years off. First multi-pitch climb ever for my partner. Unsurprisingly we were too slow and a little after frigging up the first 5c (with insitu peg and sling) we rapped off to the right down a couloir, and spent a night in the cave behind Lac Bleu. Unless you're moving together, or extremely speedy, the guidebook time is very optimistic!
with WillyB
w-watson 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
bogpetre 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd dog Aided the crux at the pins. Onsight otherwise.
Aided the crux at the pins. Onsight otherwise.
chris_B 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Adam Martin
with Adam Martin
Rob Royle 26 Jul, 2016 2nd Fantastic route, was quite busy but still very enjoyable!!
with Seb (Mountain Guide)
Fantastic route, was quite busy but still very enjoyable!!
with Seb (Mountain Guide)
Ben in de Bergen 25 Jul, 2016 -
Ben in de Bergen 25 Jul, 2016 -
Hidden 21 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2016 AltLd
joe_lancs 10 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Joel Miller 1 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Remyveness 1 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Great route, downclimbed then abbed off at the 4th gendarme! Really nice rock, set off early, from the lowest start but moved relatively slowly, only just made the bin lift after starting the abbs down at 5:25!! (got a little lost mid route and ended up climbing a tough corner pitch from a bolted belay with very little in terms of gear...)
Great route, downclimbed then abbed off at the 4th gendarme! Really nice rock, set off early, from the lowest start but moved relatively slowly, only just made the bin lift after starting the abbs down at 5:25!! (got a little lost mid route and ended up climbing a tough corner pitch from a bolted belay with very little in terms of gear...)
scorpia97 ?Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Everetta ??, 2016 2nd O/S
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
Adam_42 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S After a previously aborted attempt due to running out of time, we scrambled the first section to start at the letterbox pitch. Swung leads to the summit with Dave taking the awkward step across and me landing the crux after some confusion on the finish of a previous pitch. Amazing climbing and a great day out, only slightly ruined by the long walk down after missing the final lift.
After a previously aborted attempt due to running out of time, we scrambled the first section to start at the letterbox pitch. Swung leads to the summit with Dave taking the awkward step across and me landing the crux after some confusion on the finish of a previous pitch. Amazing climbing and a great day out, only slightly ruined by the long walk down after missing the final lift.
DaveThexton 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd
with Adam_42
with Adam_42
Si 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
benclimbing 30 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Would be nails in big boots! Happy to have rock shoes on crux pitch. Wish we had chalk as well! No need for crampons or axe as the descent was dry. We had double 60m ropes but a single would have been adequate. Felt a shame to not go to the summit but there just wasn't long enough if going from the first lift to the last lift
with graham boistelle
Would be nails in big boots! Happy to have rock shoes on crux pitch. Wish we had chalk as well! No need for crampons or axe as the descent was dry. We had double 60m ropes but a single would have been adequate. Felt a shame to not go to the summit but there just wasn't long enough if going from the first lift to the last lift
with graham boistelle
OliverRoss 23 Aug, 2015 Lead
JessWilliams 23 Aug, 2015 2nd dnf
Ken Applegate 11 Aug, 2015 AltLd Had intentions of climbing the Contamine-Vaucher, but miscommunication the night before meant that we only had a single 60m rope between us, which wouldn't have allowed abseiling the face, so this was our consolation route, and a good value consolation route it was! Good fun all the way.
with Andy Barker
Had intentions of climbing the Contamine-Vaucher, but miscommunication the night before meant that we only had a single 60m rope between us, which wouldn't have allowed abseiling the face, so this was our consolation route, and a good value consolation route it was! Good fun all the way.
with Andy Barker
Andrew Barker 11 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Really good climbing with some worryingly large hollow flakes. Tough in big boots.
Really good climbing with some worryingly large hollow flakes. Tough in big boots.
EllieWoods 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with pete belfield
with pete belfield
chapmand 28 Jul, 2015 AltLd dnf 3 teams ahead moving slowly theough the crux. So we abbed off.
3 teams ahead moving slowly theough the crux. So we abbed off.
hlegge 23 Jul, 2015 AltLd dnf started route too low accidentally and got lost on the 2nd pillar thinking we were on 4th pillar and crux pitch. ended up in an orangy overhung corner which was far harder than what we should have been on (a 4b pitch round the corner). ended up running out of time and bailed.
with Dom Pearce
started route too low accidentally and got lost on the 2nd pillar thinking we were on 4th pillar and crux pitch. ended up in an orangy overhung corner which was far harder than what we should have been on (a 4b pitch round the corner). ended up running out of time and bailed.
with Dom Pearce
HP9 17 Jul, 2015 AltLd Lead the crux pitch and the first chimney. 1st class rock
with Ales Cesen
Lead the crux pitch and the first chimney. 1st class rock
with Ales Cesen
buzby78 12 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Jess
with Jess
Jenn_Stretton 9 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Nicola Hughes
with Nicola Hughes
Petarghh 7 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 7 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2015 AltLd dnf
HosteDenis ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S simulclimbed everything
simulclimbed everything
Brucemacrosson ?Jul, 2015 AltLd D 4c trad
with Luke Smithwick
D 4c trad
with Luke Smithwick
tunnah 26 Jun, 2015 AltLd
with CMoore
with CMoore
CMoore 26 Jun, 2015 AltLd
with tunnah
with tunnah
Hidden 25 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
niallsash 23 Jun, 2015 -
niallsash 18 Jun, 2015 AltLd
with davkeo
with davkeo
davkeo 18 Jun, 2015 AltLd rpt 3hrs. Block leads. Cracking day. Bum slide down snow slope on descent.
3hrs. Block leads. Cracking day. Bum slide down snow slope on descent.
davkeo 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Brilliant day in fantastic surroundings and blue sky weather. Easy climbing with a nice crux pitch.
with kdo
Brilliant day in fantastic surroundings and blue sky weather. Easy climbing with a nice crux pitch.
with kdo
Hidden 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd
Hugh Simons 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd Amazing day on stunning rock. Very pleasant climbing in great positions.
with Daniel Grierson
Amazing day on stunning rock. Very pleasant climbing in great positions.
with Daniel Grierson
calumhicks 6 Jun, 2015 Lead Really engrossing climbing and fantastic situations! The letterbox pitch was superb
with Adam Harris
Really engrossing climbing and fantastic situations! The letterbox pitch was superb
with Adam Harris
Euan Todd 5 Jun, 2015 AltLd dnf Went off route at the 2nd tower, ended up on a pitch way too hard for the route. Shame, as the climbing was great!
with Ali
Went off route at the 2nd tower, ended up on a pitch way too hard for the route. Shame, as the climbing was great!
with Ali
joelevanschamonix ??, 2015 -
pow22 11 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S With Rick.
With Rick.
Matthew Martin Wsm 5 Sep, 2014 2nd fantastic climb done in rock shoes, moved together on the easy pitches, wonderful positions moves and exposure, defo worth 3 stars, so pleased! done climb in 4 hours!
with dave kenyon
fantastic climb done in rock shoes, moved together on the easy pitches, wonderful positions moves and exposure, defo worth 3 stars, so pleased! done climb in 4 hours!
with dave kenyon
Hidden 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd
steve_gibbs 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Verity, Hannah
with Verity, Hannah
67hours 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with Clay C
with Clay C
Hidden 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
alexm198 2 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Climbed in approach shoes, moved together save for about 3 pitches.
with James Thompson
Climbed in approach shoes, moved together save for about 3 pitches.
with James Thompson
Hidden 2 Sep, 2014 -
Little AndyH 2 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Debbie Lee 2 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with Lachy, Andy
with Lachy, Andy
MrRiley 2 Sep, 2014 AltLd A fantastic route in stunning weather! Very sociable with many teams on it. Stayed in the plan de l'aiguille hut after which was excellent
with Richard Hines
A fantastic route in stunning weather! Very sociable with many teams on it. Stayed in the plan de l'aiguille hut after which was excellent
with Richard Hines
Hidden ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
mim tiller 17 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
Hidden 10 Aug, 2014 -
Hidden 10 Aug, 2014 AltLd
ndraper1 1 Aug, 2014 AltLd Moved together early on then pitched the majority of the harder parts. Found it exposed! Cruz felt pretty stiff as well but all in all some great climbing and a true mountaineering adventure winding up and around gendarmes. Wanted to continue to the peigne but got stuck in traffic. Would have been too slow anyway its longer than you think!
Moved together early on then pitched the majority of the harder parts. Found it exposed! Cruz felt pretty stiff as well but all in all some great climbing and a true mountaineering adventure winding up and around gendarmes. Wanted to continue to the peigne but got stuck in traffic. Would have been too slow anyway its longer than you think!
matty123 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Mr. K 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
jogle03 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Started in moving together, but eventually we got stuck behind parties, and pitched till the end since. I lead the 2 cruxes free. On our descent we missed the best line and ended up abseiling for (additional) 2 pitches immediately before reaching the snow-field. Nice little route! I have reliased if one wants to summit after this in a day, they have to be pretty fast.
with Mr. K
Started in moving together, but eventually we got stuck behind parties, and pitched till the end since. I lead the 2 cruxes free. On our descent we missed the best line and ended up abseiling for (additional) 2 pitches immediately before reaching the snow-field. Nice little route! I have reliased if one wants to summit after this in a day, they have to be pretty fast.
with Mr. K
Pete_Frost 16 Jul, 2014 AltLd Repeat ascent but in big boots this time: totally different proposition - very strenuous! Top tip: instead of climbing the wall on the 3rd tower, drop down to the right and climb the flakes instead it's a jugfest and huge fun!
with Ash Fusiarski
Repeat ascent but in big boots this time: totally different proposition - very strenuous! Top tip: instead of climbing the wall on the 3rd tower, drop down to the right and climb the flakes instead it's a jugfest and huge fun!
with Ash Fusiarski
Hidden 3 Jul, 2014 AltLd
DigitalSteak 3 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Great route, went back to finish it off in glorious weather. Led the crux.
Great route, went back to finish it off in glorious weather. Led the crux.
nmcgreen 1 Jul, 2014 AltLd
with kdo
with kdo
Hidden 1 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Nemmie ?Jul, 2014 -
benkelsey 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd β Ran out of lift days so walked up from Valley. moved together for most of it and were back in the valley by 2pm including running down from the half way. Jake took the gear on the lift both ways. good effort to Tom and Anna, quality route.
Ran out of lift days so walked up from Valley. moved together for most of it and were back in the valley by 2pm including running down from the half way. Jake took the gear on the lift both ways. good effort to Tom and Anna, quality route.
JakeWShaw 28 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Ace route, moved together for quite a bit, Ben probably led 2/3's. Easily made the lift back down!
Ace route, moved together for quite a bit, Ben probably led 2/3's. Easily made the lift back down!
DigitalSteak 28 Jun, 2014 AltLd dnf Up to half way before hail stopped play.
Up to half way before hail stopped play.
Graeme Barr 28 Jun, 2014 AltLd dnf Bailed halfway.
Bailed halfway.
Anna duckett 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Tom
with Tom
Teappleby 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd Got first lift to plan. Walked in a bit too far round to the left and ended up doing a bolted pitch to gain the ridge again. Great climbing all the way, got slowed down by a party ahead at the first 5c move, it took them an hour! Anna then led it quickly afterwards and I led the letterbox and the 5b at the top. 16 pitches and topped out about 19:00. Then we must have missed the descent because we came down a gully onto the Pelerins glacier, it was 7 abs and aload of sketchy downclimbing between them, obviously some else had done this before though because there was tat all the way. The second to last ab was terrifying because it was off a tiny, slopey, spike about 2-3 inches high! and then when I pulled the ropes they ran fine and the knot came down, but then the end wedged solid and eventually had to chop it and do the final ab on 1 rope. Descended the glacier and finally got into bivi bags at plan about 1am. By the time we had got up, walked down, bought some food and got the bus home, it was 29 hours from campsite to campsite! A really great route, was really fun and a real alpine adventure!
Got first lift to plan. Walked in a bit too far round to the left and ended up doing a bolted pitch to gain the ridge again. Great climbing all the way, got slowed down by a party ahead at the first 5c move, it took them an hour! Anna then led it quickly afterwards and I led the letterbox and the 5b at the top. 16 pitches and topped out about 19:00. Then we must have missed the descent because we came down a gully onto the Pelerins glacier, it was 7 abs and aload of sketchy downclimbing between them, obviously some else had done this before though because there was tat all the way. The second to last ab was terrifying because it was off a tiny, slopey, spike about 2-3 inches high! and then when I pulled the ropes they ran fine and the knot came down, but then the end wedged solid and eventually had to chop it and do the final ab on 1 rope. Descended the glacier and finally got into bivi bags at plan about 1am. By the time we had got up, walked down, bought some food and got the bus home, it was 29 hours from campsite to campsite! A really great route, was really fun and a real alpine adventure!
joelevanschamonix 25 Jun, 2014 2nd β http://joelevanschamonix.com/2014/06/27/arete-des-papillons-aiguille-du-peigne/
with Emily roo
http://joelevanschamonix.com/2014/06/27/arete-des-papillons-aiguille-du-peigne/
with Emily roo
Hidden 25 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
BushwackerBritz ?Jun, 2014 Solo dnf Maybe bit off a little much to chew following Brette up here, done in Boots with a Pack on. Got up to P4 then decided to down climb to catch the last Lift which we just made it back for!
with Brette Harrington
Maybe bit off a little much to chew following Brette up here, done in Boots with a Pack on. Got up to P4 then decided to down climb to catch the last Lift which we just made it back for!
with Brette Harrington
Hidden ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden 7 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
simondunf 7 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S letterbox pitch particularily gd
with caspar
letterbox pitch particularily gd
with caspar
mrmattwright 5 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S Started late, was not long before the big boots came off, Fletch lead letterbox pitch very nicely. Finished in the dark at 9pm then abbed down, finding the right descent route after some scrambling around and got to the glacier (solid) at midnight, a warm starry night helped the atmos.
with Adrian Fletcher
Started late, was not long before the big boots came off, Fletch lead letterbox pitch very nicely. Finished in the dark at 9pm then abbed down, finding the right descent route after some scrambling around and got to the glacier (solid) at midnight, a warm starry night helped the atmos.
with Adrian Fletcher
Hidden 23 Aug, 2013 -
HimTiggins 22 Aug, 2013 AltLd rpt
with Danny
with Danny
Hidden 14 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
frost 14 Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Adam, D Garry
with Adam, D Garry
Tom Last 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S After Lépidoptères, so only top couple of pitches, but led the amazing pitch up the slab on the big tower. Lovely stuff.
After Lépidoptères, so only top couple of pitches, but led the amazing pitch up the slab on the big tower. Lovely stuff.
Hidden 6 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Palindrome 6 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Ben Briggs 3 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Toby
with Toby
Jack00 ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Edd Carrigan
with Edd Carrigan
Ed carrigan ?Aug, 2013 -
Vincej ?Aug, 2013 2nd
with Cyril
with Cyril
jimmatthews 28 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Joe Toller
with Joe Toller
Michael 22 Jul, 2013 -
planetmarshall 17 Jul, 2013 2nd Only people on the route.
Only people on the route.
spragglerocks 16 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Ben
with Ben
Batt 16 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with sim0n
with sim0n
SteveM 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd French free in big boots
French free in big boots
alan1234 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Eirik Nordli
with Eirik Nordli
Gumery 1 Jul, 2013 -
with Forshaw
with Forshaw
Hidden 1 Jul, 2013 Lead
Hidden 1 Jul, 2013 2nd
Dave Almond 16 Jun, 2013 AltLd Nice intro for Nicole and nice intro to altitude. Would have been good to catch the lift off but a meal at the plan hut and a walk down in the setting sun made it more bearable.
Nice intro for Nicole and nice intro to altitude. Would have been good to catch the lift off but a meal at the plan hut and a walk down in the setting sun made it more bearable.
Nicole Almond 16 Jun, 2013 2nd Great climb to start off a first alpine trip, would've been better if we hadn't had missed the lift and had to walk all the way back down to chamonix but still had a great day.
Great climb to start off a first alpine trip, would've been better if we hadn't had missed the lift and had to walk all the way back down to chamonix but still had a great day.
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
mux ??, 2013 AltLd O/S
jcw ??, 2013 -
walts4 ??, 2013 -
Tobias at Home ??, 2013 -
Hidden 17 Sep, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 28 Aug, 2012 AltLd
JKBowers 20 Aug, 2012 AltLd Got half way along, rap of due to storm
with Dilan Pathmajothy
Got half way along, rap of due to storm
with Dilan Pathmajothy
Hidden 17 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 17 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 17 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Andy Can68 10 Aug, 2012 -
mickd ?Aug, 2012 Lead Led every pitch .The crux is badly polished but handily full of tat. Learned about overtaking policys. Whoever climbs the fastest....Wins!
Led every pitch .The crux is badly polished but handily full of tat. Learned about overtaking policys. Whoever climbs the fastest....Wins!
davepc ?Aug, 2012 2nd Mick led all the way-superb rock and handy abseil into gully.
with mick
Mick led all the way-superb rock and handy abseil into gully.
with mick
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 26 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Ollie B
with Ollie B
Ollie B 26 Jul, 2012 -
with T.Livinstone
with T.Livinstone
Martin Bennett 22 Jul, 2012 -
with Alexandre George, Ali
with Alexandre George, Ali
Hidden 19 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Rossco-p 19 Jul, 2012 Lead
Hidden 23 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Ross Davidson 23 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
csalvage 22 Jun, 2012 2nd
with Bryan
with Bryan
Hidden 9 Jun, 2012 -
Adam Booth 2 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Then followed normal route to the summit...
with gowla
Then followed normal route to the summit...
with gowla
gowla 1 Sep, 2011 AltLd
with adam booth
with adam booth
gingernick ?Sep, 2011 AltLd Great climb lots of people
with 19Dan82
Great climb lots of people
with 19Dan82
Hidden 21 Aug, 2011 -
Hidden 21 Aug, 2011 -
Hidden 17 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
The Mountain Goat 15 Aug, 2011 2nd
Somerset swede basher 14 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
with Jon Miles
Hidden 13 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 4 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 4 Aug, 2011 AltLd
darren hudson 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S started at the right of the foot up bolted route, which is not the start and a bit harder. very nice climb especially the flakes at the top. Ab out but don't pack the ropes as there's a walk then another ab. We learnt the hard way! Camped at the lac as missed the last cable car.
with David Ford
started at the right of the foot up bolted route, which is not the start and a bit harder. very nice climb especially the flakes at the top. Ab out but don't pack the ropes as there's a walk then another ab. We learnt the hard way! Camped at the lac as missed the last cable car.
with David Ford
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
tommoulds 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Schramm
with Schramm
Adi Hooper 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Roger Ward
with Roger Ward
Hidden 11 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Julli 11 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Noora S.
with Noora S.
RKernan 7 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
gilmour_789 7 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with RKernan
with RKernan
JRSB1991 ?Jul, 2011 -
theo.mooney ?Jul, 2011 -
d_meacher ?Jul, 2011 Lead
with Gill Byrne
with Gill Byrne
chrissloan84 ??, 2011 Lead
with paul
with paul
Tim Sparrow ??, 2011 - First route of a trip - nice but felt harder than many years ago ...
with Geoff Thomas
First route of a trip - nice but felt harder than many years ago ...
with Geoff Thomas
PHILD 29 Aug, 2010 2nd Butterflies ridge, very apt!! An offering of one of Alex's quickdraws ensured safe passage. Quality route, highly recommended.
Butterflies ridge, very apt!! An offering of one of Alex's quickdraws ensured safe passage. Quality route, highly recommended.
Hidden 13 Aug, 2010 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 Lead
tumbling wizard ?Aug, 2010 -
with andrew marshall
with andrew marshall
johnmctighe 16 Jul, 2010 2nd
with Stephan
with Stephan
Hidden 9 Jul, 2010 Lead
Neil D 2 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
BorisVBlade 2 Jul, 2010 AltLd Nice route. At the end of the route, we carried on to the top of Aid du Paigne along the North Ridge, however had to turn back about 50m below the summit as bad weather was coming in.
Nice route. At the end of the route, we carried on to the top of Aid du Paigne along the North Ridge, however had to turn back about 50m below the summit as bad weather was coming in.
robinsi197 ?Jul, 2010 AltLd
with Nick
with Nick
Hidden ?Jun, 2010 -
thebigeasy ??, 2010 -
alancash100 ??, 2010 AltLd
Guy Wilson ??, 2010 -
Hidden 26 Aug, 2009 2nd
inuklm 23 Aug, 2009 -
with Dave Gent
with Dave Gent
Henrik 17 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Josef
with Josef
david0811 13 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Great little climb. started late and ended up spending the night on the ledges under the Ticket.
with Mark Reid
Great little climb. started late and ended up spending the night on the ledges under the Ticket.
with Mark Reid
davidgent 10 Aug, 2009 -
with Kunal
with Kunal
oldgrey ?Aug, 2009 - I found it tricky, but several French grannies in wheelchairs seemed to skate up it...
with Virgil Scott
I found it tricky, but several French grannies in wheelchairs seemed to skate up it...
with Virgil Scott
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Kyuzo ?Aug, 2009 -
Phil Jennings 28 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
with Tom Nichols
Hidden 28 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Andy Clarke 26 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Very enjoyable climbing on a lovely sunny day. Made it easy to put up with waiting at the belays while the over-equipped (peg hammers!) team in front of us dogged their way up. Too easy unfortunately - got to the top of the traditional descent and realised we wouldn't make the last 'phrique down from Plan de l'Aiguille. This was after having shaken our heads at the teams taking the easy (and quick) way out down the bolted routes on the Peigne slabs. Traditional descent turned out to be a chossy couloir followed by an unexpected snow slope. Not easy to negotiate in our trainers. Hadn't bothered with crampons or axes. Under-equipped maybe? Hmmm. Time for a rather uncomfortable "seated glissade." Two very foot and arse sore alpinists finally made it back to car around 10 pm.
with rob1
Very enjoyable climbing on a lovely sunny day. Made it easy to put up with waiting at the belays while the over-equipped (peg hammers!) team in front of us dogged their way up. Too easy unfortunately - got to the top of the traditional descent and realised we wouldn't make the last 'phrique down from Plan de l'Aiguille. This was after having shaken our heads at the teams taking the easy (and quick) way out down the bolted routes on the Peigne slabs. Traditional descent turned out to be a chossy couloir followed by an unexpected snow slope. Not easy to negotiate in our trainers. Hadn't bothered with crampons or axes. Under-equipped maybe? Hmmm. Time for a rather uncomfortable "seated glissade." Two very foot and arse sore alpinists finally made it back to car around 10 pm.
with rob1
rob1 26 Jul, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 25 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
HimTiggins 25 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S Moved together for most part. Seconded a couple of pitches ...
with Eero & Bart
Moved together for most part. Seconded a couple of pitches ...
with Eero & Bart
Hidden 25 Jul, 2009 -
Hidden 16 Jul, 2009 2nd
Pat-H 14 Jul, 2009 2nd
Jonny_86 4 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S Seriously good !
with Glyn
Seriously good !
with Glyn
Glyn 4 Jul, 2009 -
with David Fountain and Jonny
with David Fountain and Jonny
davefount ?Jul, 2009 AltLd Rained on descent
with Glyn and Jonny
Rained on descent
with Glyn and Jonny
Neil D ?Jul, 2009 AltLd rpt + James Waldron
with Caspar
+ James Waldron
with Caspar
Tobias at Home 13 Jun, 2009 - planned on going to the summit but cold beers won the day.
planned on going to the summit but cold beers won the day.
mathquirk 25 May, 2009 Lead Missed the last 'pherique again!
with Babu Blatt
Missed the last 'pherique again!
with Babu Blatt
tim20 ??, 2009 -
brockers ??, 2009 AltLd O/S
with CarlZ
with CarlZ
andysroom ??, 2009 Lead dnf Hurray for Blizzard Bags!
Hurray for Blizzard Bags!
Mathijs ??, 2009 -
reima ??, 2009 AltLd Started off at the next buttress and did a few pitches of more interesting climbing first before meeting the route. Learned some lessons on overtaking here. A bit too crowded for my tastes.
with Nora, Niamh
Started off at the next buttress and did a few pitches of more interesting climbing first before meeting the route. Learned some lessons on overtaking here. A bit too crowded for my tastes.
with Nora, Niamh
Hidden 11 Sep, 2008 AltLd
featuresforfeet 31 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S
Matthallinan 3 Aug, 2008 AltLd
MoWalker3 1 Aug, 2008 AltLd
with Quiet Ian
with Quiet Ian
Mark Walter ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Steve Becwith
with Steve Becwith
JonHarvey ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 AltLd
James Gordon ?Aug, 2008 -
Hidden 25 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Lee Bonner
with Lee Bonner
dan gibson 27 Aug, 2007 Lead rpt
with sam read
with sam read
chris m fisher 11 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Jake
with Jake
Hidden 11 Aug, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 6 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
rholdswo ?Aug, 2007 2nd
davepc ?Aug, 2007 Lead
with Cedric
with Cedric
tom.e 31 Jul, 2007 -
Hidden 29 Jul, 2007 Lead
Paul-Michael 17 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S From Chaminix made good time. V
with Paul Nurse
From Chaminix made good time. V
with Paul Nurse
Hidden 16 Jul, 2007 AltLd
Ian JL ?Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
Mr Powly ?Jul, 2007 -
with tom.e
with tom.e
Hidden 29 Jun, 2007 AltLd rpt
rwm7131 23 Jun, 2007 AltLd
with JamesA
with JamesA
Hidden 23 Jun, 2007 AltLd
Bristoldave ??, 2007 AltLd
with long
with long
Hidden 10 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
Peter Metcalfe 9 Sep, 2006 AltLd Thin 5+ move halfway up can be frigged as necessary using guides' tat; letterbox pitch a solid UK VS. Superb.
with Mike Weighleigh
Thin 5+ move halfway up can be frigged as necessary using guides' tat; letterbox pitch a solid UK VS. Superb.
with Mike Weighleigh
Hidden 5 Sep, 2006 AltLd
Brian Birtle 3 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Jon
with Jon
Hidden ?Sep, 2006 -
Hidden 31 Aug, 2006 AltLd
Ross Barnes 29 Jul, 2006 AltLd
Kyuzo ?Jul, 2006 AltLd
mattyork2 ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Josh Bakker-Dyos
with Josh Bakker-Dyos
andyinglis 29 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
Stuart Johnston 22 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
hal ?Jun, 2006 AltLd
ashpreston ??, 2006 -
edek_w ?Sep, 2005 -
Smelly Fox 13 Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Sion Brocklehurst
with Sion Brocklehurst
feilx ?Jul, 2005 -
with Dan (welsh)
with Dan (welsh)
Andy Lagan ?Jul, 2005 -
dannyboy83 ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Will Barbour
with Will Barbour
chrissloan84 ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
Yyonnx 20 Jun, 2005 AltLd A nice outting, especially the crux "letterbox" pitch. Actually, the first pitch ended with a tight chimney that was also good fun. The descent sucked as it started to rain and Philipe almost died as what we were using for a rap anchor came tumbling down on top of him! Somehow he escaped with only major bruises and we down-climbed the rest of the wet, slippery slopes having missed the last car down, continued on down to the valley.
with Tom Fralich
A nice outting, especially the crux "letterbox" pitch. Actually, the first pitch ended with a tight chimney that was also good fun. The descent sucked as it started to rain and Philipe almost died as what we were using for a rap anchor came tumbling down on top of him! Somehow he escaped with only major bruises and we down-climbed the rest of the wet, slippery slopes having missed the last car down, continued on down to the valley.
with Tom Fralich
David Horwood 20 Jun, 2005 -
manmike ?Jul, 2004 Lead rpt first led it back in 99 - missed the cable car. Led again in 04 & still missed the cable car.
with all the lads
first led it back in 99 - missed the cable car. Led again in 04 & still missed the cable car.
with all the lads
SteveM 4 Jun, 2004 AltLd Pitched. Backed off at the midway couloir
Pitched. Backed off at the midway couloir
LardClimber ?Jun, 2004 -
Stone Muppet ??, 2004 -
220bpm ?Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Dave
with Dave
tom.e ?Aug, 2003 2nd O/S
AnnaBacklund ?Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S
SteveM 4 Jun, 2003 AltLd dnf Backed off down a grotty couloir but made it to the last lift with time to spare!
Backed off down a grotty couloir but made it to the last lift with time to spare!
mike.moss ??, 2003 AltLd O/S
with James Sample
with James Sample
liz j ?Sep, 2002 2nd
with neil brodie
with neil brodie
Mark Salter 18 Aug, 2002 AltLd
with Chris Shorrock
with Chris Shorrock
plain kitten ?Jul, 2002 Lead MW
MW
TobyA ?Aug, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Adams
with Stuart Adams
dan gibson ?Aug, 2001 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
ian bryant 14 Jun, 2001 Lead dnf
with walter
with walter
prcleary ??, 2000 -
Hidden 10 Aug, 1999 AltLd O/S
bladderedagain ?Jul, 1999 AltLd
manmike ?Jul, 1999 AltLd
nige pacer ?Jul, 1999 AltLd O/S
DerwentDiluted ?Aug, 1998 AltLd
with Tim Stain
with Tim Stain
craig h ?Aug, 1998 AltLd
with Janet Hannah
with Janet Hannah
daveyb 20 Sep, 1997 AltLd
epic ed ?Aug, 1997 Lead Missed last car down and had to walk back to Cham in the dark with no torch Early lesson learnt.
Missed last car down and had to walk back to Cham in the dark with no torch Early lesson learnt.
Guy ?Aug, 1997 -
Hidden ?Jul, 1997 AltLd
Laramadness 26 Jul, 1996 -
with Steve Munton
with Steve Munton
Climbingspike ??, 1996 -
tjekel ??, 1995 -
francois ??, 1995 2nd Done with a guide in the 1990's
Done with a guide in the 1990's
craig h ?Aug, 1994 AltLd
with Jim Mellor
with Jim Mellor
Hidden ?Jul, 1994 Lead
Hidden ?Jun, 1994 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 May, 1994 AltLd
alkira 7 Aug, 1993 -
with bruce goodlad
with bruce goodlad
Hidden 3 Aug, 1993 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 1993 Solo
Nettle ?Aug, 1992 Lead O/S One of 3 ropes in our party including Simon, Fran and Callum, but can't remember my Partner's name. Great day out.
One of 3 ropes in our party including Simon, Fran and Callum, but can't remember my Partner's name. Great day out.
Hidden 26 Aug, 1991 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 1991 -
Pete_Frost ?Jul, 1991 AltLd Loads of fun. One pitch overhung but the holds were like a stack of dinner plates - perfect.
Loads of fun. One pitch overhung but the holds were like a stack of dinner plates - perfect.
Brian Rodgers ?Jul, 1991 AltLd O/S
with Sam Martin
with Sam Martin
Tim Sparrow ?Jul, 1991 - Gorgeous day!
with ChrisJD
Gorgeous day!
with ChrisJD
Budge ??, 1991 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
with Richard Teed
Hidden ?Sep, 1990 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 1990 Lead
AndrewP ?Aug, 1989 AltLd
pauldrew ?Aug, 1989 AltLd
with Jim Hart
with Jim Hart
BigHairyIan 6 Aug, 1988 AltLd O/S Got overtaken by a guide and his party, they clipped our gear on the route and used our belays... I wasn't entirely happy with the situation, but have since learned that British manners have a place only in Britain and posh American Restaurants. In the Alps, no one waits for anyone: deal with it! Great Day out though!
Got overtaken by a guide and his party, they clipped our gear on the route and used our belays... I wasn't entirely happy with the situation, but have since learned that British manners have a place only in Britain and posh American Restaurants. In the Alps, no one waits for anyone: deal with it! Great Day out though!
steve taylor ?Aug, 1988 - Alps - not my cup of tea at all!
with Dave Gilkes
Alps - not my cup of tea at all!
with Dave Gilkes
auld al ?Aug, 1988 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 1988 AltLd
Hidden 26 Jul, 1988 AltLd
michael burrows 25 Jul, 1988 AltLd O/S
with steve williams
with steve williams
Hidden 20 Jul, 1988 AltLd O/S
John Marsland ?Aug, 1987 - 1 hour
with Dave Soles
1 hour
with Dave Soles
Hidden 2 Aug, 1986 AltLd O/S
Guy ?Aug, 1986 -
Bruce Kerr 22 Jul, 1986 AltLd
with Grahame Nicoll
with Grahame Nicoll
ill_bill 11 Jul, 1986 - with Colin Lennox
with Colin Lennox
Hidden ?Jul, 1986 AltLd O/S
eroica64 11 Sep, 1985 AltLd In big boots - duh! Should have been in rock shoes. Walked all way back down to Chamonix after minor row with John.
with John Graeme
In big boots - duh! Should have been in rock shoes. Walked all way back down to Chamonix after minor row with John.
with John Graeme
Adrian Gostick 14 Aug, 1985 AltLd
John Marsland 12 Aug, 1985 Solo Used two 8 foot slings for pro.
Used two 8 foot slings for pro.
Hidden ?Aug, 1985 -
Tony Ryland 13 Jul, 1985 AltLd Rick fell near top Had to ab off
Rick fell near top Had to ab off
Robmwatt ??, 1984 AltLd
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
andy tetsill ?Aug, 1983 AltLd
with Richard
with Richard
Neil McA 10 Aug, 1982 AltLd Papillons / North Ridge combo, excellent! 6 hours in total
with Steve Hartland
Papillons / North Ridge combo, excellent! 6 hours in total
with Steve Hartland
Hidden ?Aug, 1982 -
Lone Rider ??, 1982 Solo O/S
John Marsland ??, 1982 -
with Andy Veveris and Chris Broad
with Andy Veveris and Chris Broad
alpinist63 ?Aug, 1981 -
DonnyDave 20 Aug, 1980 AltLd
with Ian Freebie, Steve Sykes, Mick Ward
with Ian Freebie, Steve Sykes, Mick Ward
bobelvedere 14 Aug, 1980 Lead
with Lene Vestergaard
with Lene Vestergaard
Richard Weller ?Aug, 1980 -
with Richard White
with Richard White
Hidden ?Aug, 1980 -
Rob Davies ?Aug, 1980 Lead Climbed in reasonable time. Descent in dry, sunny conditions was easy.
with Mike Papworth
Climbed in reasonable time. Descent in dry, sunny conditions was easy.
with Mike Papworth
mark-abz ?Aug, 1980 AltLd
with ?
with ?
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 AltLd
Hidden ?Sep, 1979 -
leland stamper ?Aug, 1979 AltLd First big alpine rock route
with Hugh Grandfield
First big alpine rock route
with Hugh Grandfield
Andy Say ?Aug, 1979 AltLd O/S
beaumap ?Jul, 1979 Lead
with Stan Tanner
with Stan Tanner
Hidden ??, 1979 Solo
Hidden ?Aug, 1978 AltLd
Hidden 16 Jul, 1978 AltLd
Hidden 16 Jul, 1978 AltLd
Mark Kemball ?Aug, 1976 AltLd
with Bill Wheeler
with Bill Wheeler
Bolt Phobia 4 Aug, 1975 Lead rpt
with Kit Spencer, Nicole
with Kit Spencer, Nicole
pneame 15 Jul, 1975 AltLd
Steve Woollard 15 Aug, 1974 Lead
with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker
with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker
Bolt Phobia 15 Aug, 1974 Lead
with Steve Woollard
with Steve Woollard
Rob Davies ?Aug, 1974 AltLd dnf Abandoned after a few pitches due to over-crowding - 18 people on one ledge
with Joseph Cullen (ICMC)
Abandoned after a few pitches due to over-crowding - 18 people on one ledge
with Joseph Cullen (ICMC)
mikej ?Aug, 1969 AltLd
with Martin Wragg
with Martin Wragg
uphillnow ??, 1966 Lead
with Paul Clark
with Paul Clark
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Voting
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 24
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set