Rockfax Description
II, 370m. A route offering beautiful views as it climbs the ridge of the Flammes de Pierre at a moderate grade. The first few pitches offer classic granite climbing and then the route takes on more of an alpine feel. Approach via a grassy corner in the red rock and then follow a ledge out left. The start is marked by a rope thread.
1) 6a+. Follow cracks up above the thread and then follow bolts out left onto the slab. There is a tricky step up.
2) 6a. Follow the crack left of the belay.
3) 6a. Climb the bolted slab on the right and then a crack above.
4) 4c. Climb the chimney marked by a bolt and then take the easiest line to a belay on a large ledge.
5) 2c. Follow the ridge easily for 80m, passing any difficulties on the left.
6) 5c. Climb the big red corner via cracks on the right, belaying at a brèche just right of a roof.
7) Either head left around the gendarme that the belay is on and follow easy ground (3a) below the ridge to the next belay or follow the ridge (5a) and make a 5m abseil into the brèche where the next belay is located.
8) 5c. Climb the crack above the belay and then cross to the right of the ridge and climb a corner (bolt near start).
9) 5a. Climb past bolts via some balancy moves to gain a large slab. Follow this on the left to a belay below a steeper headwall.
10) 5c. Traverse right under the roof and follow steep cracks to the top of the pinnacle. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This route takes the left hand arete of the face, from the main Charpoua path follow a very faint path through several grassy ledges. Trad gear with mostly in situ belays. 5C/6A+ More info here : http://m.camptocamp.org/routes/56637/fr/diamant-des-flammes-de-pierre-le-joyau-et-le-lotus
Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed.
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Grade: TD 6a ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)