Rockfax Description
A good route on excellent compact rock which makes up for the difficult route finding.
Start below a black stripe, 50m below a roof.
1) IV-, 50m. Follow the black stripe on excellent featured rock. Climb a steeper section then continue over easier slabs, moving right to belay below the roof.
2) V-, 40m. Climb direct, with enjoyable moves to the right of a bulge, then continue up easier ground towards a pale slab.
3) IV+, 40m. Climb a crack to the left of the slab to reach a small ledge. Continue direct through a bulge then exit left to another small ledge.
4) IV-, 40m. Climb diagonally left to belay by a chockstone.
5) IV, 40m. Follow a gully then continue in the continuation crack before moving right to exit onto a scree ledge. Continue to the base of a black stripe 5m below a vague corner.
6) IV, 40m. Climb the corner then, where it narrows, exit left. Continue direct then move left (or continue up a crack direct, harder at V-) to a ledge. 15m easy scrambling leads to the final ledge. © Rockfax

FA. Tubaro, Spavento 1986 15/Jun/1986.

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