UKC

140m.

Rockfax Description
One of the most sought-after routes in the area. Despite the 'Diff' climbing grade, it is also regarded as a classic Grade 3 scramble. All the difficulty is in the first pitch after which much easier scrambling leads up the crest of an exposed rocky ridge. The upper arete gives the route a real alpine feel. Start on the left side of Cwm Cneifion.
1) Start on the left side of the buttress and climb up steeply on reasonable holds to reach a belay on a small ledge - tricky, but it all gets easier above this.
2) Go up and left to gain a small gully and follow it up and right to the start of the arete proper. Revel in the exposure and delightful climbing all the way to the top. Finish on the 'football pitch' below y Gribin. Pitches not marked.
Descent - Descend from the top right-hand corner of the 'football pitch' back down into Cwm Cneifion. Alternatively, continue up y Gribin and descend via Senior's Ridge or down through The Devil's Kitchen having summitted Glyder Fawr. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
D/SG3. A steep, juggy pitch of moderate climbing and an awkward chimney lead to a superb grade three ridge scramble. Alpine in character, this route could only be improved if it was longer.

Ticklists

Top ridge scrambles of Britain , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , North wales road to ruins HVS , North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The Ogwen 1000 , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Snowdonia in Chains , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , Big Routes , The Long Routes , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Ogwen , Mountain Rock , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , 10 Year Walking And Scrambling Challenge , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , British 3 Star Scrambles , Snowdonia *** Scrambles , No you're a punter , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , Top 20 UK Diffs? , North Wales - routes to do with Kloe , Ogwen Scramble , North Wales solos , Scrambles and low grade mountain trad adventures , Scrambles & Easy Climbs in Snowdonia , Tarquin’s Ogwen 20 , UK Most Ticked Trad Routes by Grade , Nuts and Sluts scrambling day out , Eyes to the Hills , 3 Star - North Wales upto HVS , North Wales Rock - Wired 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
chrisnunn 6 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Classic route, alpine feel
βeta?
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βeta: Classic route, alpine feel
Thomas Mulready 8 Dec, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Unfortunately, we had to back off this on Friday due to the deteriorating weather. It was very slippery particularly when we were climbing it in b2 boots. I ended up getting a purple cam stuck on the first pitch and I left the tool in the car. If anyone is going up and can retrieve it I would be extremely grateful. It has a tough tag on with all my details. I will of course pay any costs if anyone could mail it back to me beer/postage etc… it’s a great route just not one for wet days Thanks Tom
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Unfortunately, we had to back off this on Friday due to the deteriorating weather. It was very slippery particularly when we were climbing it in b2 boots. I ended up getting a purple cam stuck on the first pitch and I left the tool in the car. If anyone is going up and can retrieve it I would be extremely grateful. It has a tough tag on with all my details. I will of course pay any costs if anyone could mail it back to me beer/postage etc… it’s a great route just not one for wet days Thanks Tom
Katzina.W 17 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great scramble, made me feel a bit as if I were in the Alps again! Really enjoyed it.
βeta?
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βeta: Great scramble, made me feel a bit as if I were in the Alps again! Really enjoyed it.
Sichuang Chai (Gerald) 7 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: An old cam was stuck in a crack.
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βeta: An old cam was stuck in a crack.
PappaDaq 20 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best scrambles I’ve ever done, would give it 4* if I could but that may be me being biased have as it was a beaut of a day and I was climbing with my favourite people ??
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βeta: One of the best scrambles I’ve ever done, would give it 4* if I could but that may be me being biased have as it was a beaut of a day and I was climbing with my favourite people ??
Mimi White 13 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Mega fun
βeta?
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βeta: Mega fun
SophieW 20 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Wobbly spikes in places
βeta?
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βeta: Wobbly spikes in places
Tall Oak 10 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Quality route and can be done with 2,3s all roped up alpine style.
βeta?
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βeta: Quality route and can be done with 2,3s all roped up alpine style.
ChrisWills 3 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Few loose bits so careful of people below!
βeta?
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βeta: Few loose bits so careful of people below!
Troglodyte 15 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very visible protruding rock sticking out of the wall two-thirds of the way up the fourth pitch is loose but not gone yet. Watch for gear.
βeta?
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βeta: Very visible protruding rock sticking out of the wall two-thirds of the way up the fourth pitch is loose but not gone yet. Watch for gear.
Jack Doyle 14 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: with Theo as a mock client
βeta?
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βeta: with Theo as a mock client
Jack Doyle 14 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: in descent for some MCI practice
βeta?
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βeta: in descent for some MCI practice
liensiwel 22 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: it's a pity that ice axes and crampons are destroying such a beautiful mountaineering route.
βeta?
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βeta: it's a pity that ice axes and crampons are destroying such a beautiful mountaineering route.
glaramara 17 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Saved the day, yet again.
βeta?
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βeta: Saved the day, yet again.
Michael Hellyer 17 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Run first pitch to beyond chimney (approx 30m) and then move together.
βeta?
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βeta: Run first pitch to beyond chimney (approx 30m) and then move together.
manmike 9 Apr, 2016 Show βeta
βeta: Plenty of fresh snow added to the alpine feel. Cracking route.
βeta?
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βeta: Plenty of fresh snow added to the alpine feel. Cracking route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Cwm Cneifion

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Voting
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
High D
Mid D
Low D
High M
Mid M
Low M
Votes cast 247
Votes cast 294
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Bouldered
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cyfrwy Arete (Summer)

Grade: D ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)

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