UKC

Aka Skagastøltraversen

Start: Turtagrø hotel.

1. Walk up through the stunted birch trees to the NTK hut.

2. From the hut head, east up the hill till it flattens at the col and then ascend the north ridge of Nordre Skagastølstind over boulders for 600 monotonous meters to the top. The last section of ridge to the top can be a little tricky to find the right route.

3. Scramble down and up over Skagastølsnebbet and down to V- Skaret. There is a small slabby step near the top that can be tricky is icy.

4. Climb out of V-Skaret: Pitch 1, is grade 4, climbing directly up until it is possible to climb diagonally left and then back right to a ledge and good belay. The next pitch at grade 2/3 first goes diagonally right on a good ledge until it is possible to climb airily up to the top. An area called Berges Stol.

5. From Berges Stol to Midtre Skagastølstind: Scramble up, with some more defined difficult sections that might under certain conditions require a rope.

6. Midtre Skagastølstind to Halls hammer. Continue to follow the ridge with two sections of exposed down climbing (grade 3) until you reach a spectacular 300m length of the ridge. Follow this narrowness, with one section of creeping with both a leg on each side of the mountain until you reach Halls hammer. A crag that is blocking the way.

7. Halls Hammer to Vetle Skagastølstinden. To avoid climbing Halls hammer direct traverse on the north side over a slab called Pritchard’s Slab (grade 4 – some people us a point of aid on fixed equipment at the start of the slab) and ascend a runnel back onto the ridge. Continue up the ridge with some bouldery sections and a zig-zag traverse on the south side to the top of Vetle Skagastølstind.

8. Vetle Skagastølstind to Mohn Skar (Col between Vetle and Store Skagastølstind) Scramble down the south ridge of Vetle and locate the first of two abseils, continue to the second and continue scrambling down to the col (Mohns Skar). To reverse this section is grade 4+ / 5).

9. Mohn Skar to Store Skagastølstind: Although looking formidable the ridge succumbs with relative ease. Scramble up, with an excursion on the west side before coming back to the ridge and ascending a slabby corner (grade 3) and then continue scrambling up until a short walk, passing a steep step brings you to the top of this majestic mountain.

ClimberDateStyle
GarethSL 21/Jul AltLd O/S

Started at 5:00 from Turtagrø, 40 mins to the NTK cabin followed by a 2 hour sweat-yomp up Nordre Skagastølstind stopping to fill up water at the lake on the plateau. Little snow on the ridges so if you plan a bivy then fill up here, we had 4 litres each. Made the traverse to Storen in 5 hours then down-climbed Storen and worked our way along ledges to the col between Vetle and Sentraltind. Pitched v-skaret and the slab (climbed clean without aid by going down and left), running belay up and down Storen. We also pitched an interesting variation up the west side of Sentraltind (n4 but very very loose) and continued along to Styggedalstind stopping at both peaks. Bivvied on a ledge just up from Gjertvasstind. We used 15 hours from leaving Turtagrø, along Skagastølsryggen to Storen and back along Styggedalsryggen to the bivvy spot. Gear was 4 cams, a set of nuts, 4 alpine draws, 60m half ropes (we used these to save time on the abseils but the route can be done with a single 50/60m rope easily). We also had 3 ice screws as we knew Gjertvassbreen was in bad condition this year and this was out bail out line. These were very useful on our traverse at Gjertvasskaret as this was solid water ice.

with Steffan, Einar
SveinOlav 05/Jul Lead rpt
Naomi.P 04/Jul AltLd O/S

Bivvied by climbers hut the night before. Then had a massive 17 hour day along it and down to car. (Slowed by my leaving my phone by the glacier so it had to be rescued once we had descended a couple of km). Moved together for most of it and took a small set of nuts and 3 cams. Based on asking a guide in the hotel, we took only one 50m rope which was sufficient for the abseils throughout. From Storen we started the main ab (if you continue straight over the summit and down, scrambling left and round to the massive chains) and 25m below was another set of chains which took us down to some fairly steep scree paths. From there we continued down to the slabs and found another chain hidden and abbed another 25m (could have just downclimbed the slabs here). The guide said there were two 25m abs on the slabs but we couldn’t find another so just continued down slabs and scree before heading too far right (as advised not to do in the guidebook) and having to go left again to easier ground to descend before crossing the snow slope and straight back to the shelter. Leo was in approach shoes and regretted not adding crampons for the slope but with those it would have been fine. Big day. The next day we slept and ate.

leopolian 04/Jul AltLd O/S
with Naomi.P
astrange 04/Jun Lead O/S

Great climb and good conditions on the ridge. We only used the rope to climb out of the V-Skar and on Halls Hammer. Abseil descent via Sydvestveien. 8 hrs to the top from Turtagrø. 13 hrs return to Turtagrø. A day to remember!

yakov 26/Feb AltLd

20 hours hut to hut. Fantastic, but quite serious, in winter. Lots of snow meant delicate walking over knife edge ridge and difficulty finding protection.

Hidden 26/Aug/17 TR O/S
EspenK 26/Aug/17 Lead G/U

Roped up in V-Skar, did 2 pitches to Berges stol. Crampons on at Midtre. Simulclimbed the rest apart from Patchells Sva. Didn't stand on the piton and don't understand why most people seem to do. 9 hrs NTK-hytta to Storen summit, took it easy from there. 5 cams, 1/2 rack of nuts and 7 extenders. Lots of snow on ridge but not so bad on the actual climbing. Much less scary than the attempt 5 years ago when we bailed on Midtre.

with Stian Jarness
Jacob Jutrem 22/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Uten Storen, fortsatte på styggedalsryggen. Brukte tau opp fra v-skaret og på patchells sva. Et par meters rapell i nedre del av Sentraltind. Ellers klyving uten tau. En del dårlig snø på Styggedalsryggen. 14 timer telt til telt. (skagastølsvannet) Noen timer gikk med til å hjelpe til med en redningsaksjon. Mann med skulder ute av ledd. Ble hentet av luftambulanse. Retur ned Gjervassbreen og over Styggedalsbreen.

yakov 05/Feb/17 AltLd dnf

Bail from Midtre as demanding conditions made the clock tick too fast.

Pandemonia ?/Aug/16 2nd
with Suchy
csab1978 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

See Lee's notes

with Big Lee
Big Lee 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Awesome climb. 17 hours round trip from the car park, although some time lost waiting for abseils. Perfect weather. The climbing up to Midtre Skagastølstind felt a bit sketchy due to loose rock and wet moss. The slab pitch on Vesle Skagastølstind also pretty hard in B3 boots and very exposed. In no condition to do anything the following day.

tjekel ??/1996 -
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