UKC

Aka Skagastøltraversen

Start: Turtagrø hotel.

1. Walk up through the stunted birch trees to the NTK hut.

2. From the hut head, east up the hill till it flattens at the col and then ascend the north ridge of Nordre Skagastølstind over boulders for 600 monotonous meters to the top. The last section of ridge to the top can be a little tricky to find the right route.

3. Scramble down and up over Skagastølsnebbet and down to V- Skaret. There is a small slabby step near the top that can be tricky is icy.

4. Climb out of V-Skaret: Pitch 1, is grade 4, climbing directly up until it is possible to climb diagonally left and then back right to a ledge and good belay. The next pitch at grade 2/3 first goes diagonally right on a good ledge until it is possible to climb airily up to the top. An area called Berges Stol.

5. From Berges Stol to Midtre Skagastølstind: Scramble up, with some more defined difficult sections that might under certain conditions require a rope.

6. Midtre Skagastølstind to Halls hammer. Continue to follow the ridge with two sections of exposed down climbing (grade 3) until you reach a spectacular 300m length of the ridge. Follow this narrowness, with one section of creeping with both a leg on each side of the mountain until you reach Halls hammer. A crag that is blocking the way.

7. Halls Hammer to Vetle Skagastølstinden. To avoid climbing Halls hammer direct traverse on the north side over a slab called Pritchard’s Slab (grade 4 – some people us a point of aid on fixed equipment at the start of the slab) and ascend a runnel back onto the ridge. Continue up the ridge with some bouldery sections and a zig-zag traverse on the south side to the top of Vetle Skagastølstind.

8. Vetle Skagastølstind to Mohn Skar (Col between Vetle and Store Skagastølstind) Scramble down the south ridge of Vetle and locate the first of two abseils, continue to the second and continue scrambling down to the col (Mohns Skar). To reverse this section is grade 4+ / 5).

9. Mohn Skar to Store Skagastølstind: Although looking formidable the ridge succumbs with relative ease. Scramble up, with an excursion on the west side before coming back to the ridge and ascending a slabby corner (grade 3) and then continue scrambling up until a short walk, passing a steep step brings you to the top of this majestic mountain.

ClimberDateStyle
astrange 04/Jun Lead O/S

Great climb and good conditions on the ridge. We only used the rope to climb out of the V-Skar and on Halls Hammer. Abseil descent via Sydvestveien. 8 hrs to the top from Turtagrø. 13 hrs return to Turtagrø. A day to remember!

yakov 26/Feb AltLd

20 hours hut to hut. Fantastic, but quite serious, in winter. Lots of snow meant delicate walking over knife edge ridge and difficulty finding protection.

EspenK 26/Aug/17 Lead G/U

Roped up in V-Skar, did 2 pitches to Berges stol. Crampons on at Midtre. Simulclimbed the rest apart from Patchells Sva. Didn't stand on the piton and don't understand why most people seem to do. 9 hrs NTK-hytta to Storen summit, took it easy from there. 5 cams, 1/2 rack of nuts and 7 extenders. Lots of snow on ridge but not so bad on the actual climbing. Much less scary than the attempt 5 years ago when we bailed on Midtre.

with Stian Jarness
Jacob Jutrem 22/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Uten Storen, fortsatte på styggedalsryggen. Brukte tau opp fra v-skaret og på patchells sva. Et par meters rapell i nedre del av Sentraltind. Ellers klyving uten tau. En del dårlig snø på Styggedalsryggen. 14 timer telt til telt. (skagastølsvannet) Noen timer gikk med til å hjelpe til med en redningsaksjon. Mann med skulder ute av ledd. Ble hentet av luftambulanse. Retur ned Gjervassbreen og over Styggedalsbreen.

yakov 05/Feb/17 AltLd dnf

Bail from Midtre as demanding conditions made the clock tick too fast.

Pandemonia ?/Aug/16 2nd
with Suchy
csab1978 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

See Lee's notes

with Big Lee
Big Lee 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Awesome climb. 17 hours round trip from the car park, although some time lost waiting for abseils. Perfect weather. The climbing up to Midtre Skagastølstind felt a bit sketchy due to loose rock and wet moss. The slab pitch on Vesle Skagastølstind also pretty hard in B3 boots and very exposed. In no condition to do anything the following day.

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