75m, 2 pitches.
Two excellent pitches, for which superlatives don't suffice, up the centre of the crag, originally
featuring an `entertaining traverse on pegs' but now going free. Start at the foot of Lest We Forget. 1: 5b 40m Move left to a thin groove, and then up for 3m to gain a traverse line leading left. Follow
this up and left, trending towards a green stained corner. Climb the clean right wall of the green corner stepping into it briefly before gaining good jugs and surmount the block. Step left onto a grass ledge and left again onto good holds on the wall above which leads up onto the central slabs. Move up and left to the traverse line of Mystery Tour and follow this easily right for 5m to a huge grass ledge and belay.
2: 6a 35m Climb the twin cracks leading directly up behind the belay ledge. These run out after 10m so swing across right past two in situ pegs (crux) to reach the next crack system. Follow this up to a bulge and swing left into a steep corner groove. Climb with difficulty up this corner (small friends) and exit right with an awkward move to a sloping ramp. Climb up and right to join the last 5m of the alternative finish to Lest We Forget (or pitch 2 of Taken at the Flood: see below).
D. Stelfox, D. McNiff 02.09.89 (2 PA) FFA. D. 0'Sullivan, R. Fenlon May 91
featuring an `entertaining traverse on pegs' but now going free. Start at the foot of Lest We Forget. 1: 5b 40m Move left to a thin groove, and then up for 3m to gain a traverse line leading left. Follow
this up and left, trending towards a green stained corner. Climb the clean right wall of the green corner stepping into it briefly before gaining good jugs and surmount the block. Step left onto a grass ledge and left again onto good holds on the wall above which leads up onto the central slabs. Move up and left to the traverse line of Mystery Tour and follow this easily right for 5m to a huge grass ledge and belay.
2: 6a 35m Climb the twin cracks leading directly up behind the belay ledge. These run out after 10m so swing across right past two in situ pegs (crux) to reach the next crack system. Follow this up to a bulge and swing left into a steep corner groove. Climb with difficulty up this corner (small friends) and exit right with an awkward move to a sloping ramp. Climb up and right to join the last 5m of the alternative finish to Lest We Forget (or pitch 2 of Taken at the Flood: see below).
D. Stelfox, D. McNiff 02.09.89 (2 PA) FFA. D. 0'Sullivan, R. Fenlon May 91
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Route of Interest
Downward Facing Donkey
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Owey Island)