220m, 7 pitches. 5b obl. The route starts at the level of the glacier and climbs the slab over seven pitches to the top of the cliff. Access by abseiling from the belay directly below the geodesic signal (note the belay in sight from the geodesic signal is not the correct belay). P1 4c/5a, p2 5a, p3 5c (6a for the short) p4 4c, p5 5a, p6 5c and p7 5a

J Grand Clement and M Arizzi 08/Jul/2006

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
crazy_wolf_girl 18 Aug, 2018 2nd 6 pitches, 4c, 5a, 5c, 5b, 6a, 5c. Abseil down to the Mer de Glace glacier and climb out!
6 pitches, 4c, 5a, 5c, 5b, 6a, 5c. Abseil down to the Mer de Glace glacier and climb out!
gooberman-hill 18 Aug, 2018 Lead Great route with a really remote feel. Lovely steady climbing with the hardest pitches at the top.
Great route with a really remote feel. Lovely steady climbing with the hardest pitches at the top.
YellowFellow 29 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Iwona
with Iwona
JimboWizbo 27 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Missed bottom two pitches due to water run off. All nice, bolting a tiny bit sparse but logical. Remember lots of water because you're just cooking on the slabs with no cover.
with BCT
Missed bottom two pitches due to water run off. All nice, bolting a tiny bit sparse but logical. Remember lots of water because you're just cooking on the slabs with no cover.
with BCT
Hidden 27 Jun, 2016 AltLd
MD 16 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Happy Wanderer 16 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Not enough time to go right to the bottom. Gendarme helicopter training almost blowing us off the top by the trig point made for an exciting pre-abseil delay. Made slight move right on pillar as unable to reach crucial hold. Great adventurous route.
with MD
Not enough time to go right to the bottom. Gendarme helicopter training almost blowing us off the top by the trig point made for an exciting pre-abseil delay. Made slight move right on pillar as unable to reach crucial hold. Great adventurous route.
with MD
Hidden ?Aug, 2014 AltLd
Robin Woodward ?Aug, 2014 AltLd Lovely climb, although the description both here and the guide for finding the belay are correct, but you need to go below the bushes/trees below the geodesic point. we clambered through them - a pain, but less sketchy than traversing the top of the slab. Also the climb is nowhere near as intimidating as it look form the geodeisic point. It's a lovely slab. We had to start from the boulder halfway up P.1 due to water flowing down the first half (some rain overnight). Definitely worth trying to find this area, feels like you have the glacier/valley all to yourself (although the ice cave is in view).
Lovely climb, although the description both here and the guide for finding the belay are correct, but you need to go below the bushes/trees below the geodesic point. we clambered through them - a pain, but less sketchy than traversing the top of the slab. Also the climb is nowhere near as intimidating as it look form the geodeisic point. It's a lovely slab. We had to start from the boulder halfway up P.1 due to water flowing down the first half (some rain overnight). Definitely worth trying to find this area, feels like you have the glacier/valley all to yourself (although the ice cave is in view).
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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Not Set