The Mittellegi Ridge is probably the most popular route on the Eiger. It is a fantastic steep knife edged ridge offering excellent climbing with little or no objective danger. 4 to 8 hours from Mittellegi Hut

Yuko Maki, Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand & Fritz Steuri 10/Sep/1921

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Top quality Alps under 4000m, Big Routes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dougie 21 Sep 2nd
with Olivier
with Olivier
peter.herd 19 Sep AltLd
with Caspar M, Niels EW
with Caspar M, Niels EW
George.D 31 Aug AltLd O/S Excellent conditions - good rock and very little snow. Hut to summit in 4 hrs 15. Crampons on only once on the way up. Descent down the south ridge is very long and involving. 5 hrs to descend. Super day on the hill.
with Dante
Excellent conditions - good rock and very little snow. Hut to summit in 4 hrs 15. Crampons on only once on the way up. Descent down the south ridge is very long and involving. 5 hrs to descend. Super day on the hill.
with Dante
Kristian1805 17 Aug -
Duffyrm 16 Aug 2nd
karlcoan 5 Aug 2nd Route done in testing conditions, very windy, bad visibility, rain and hail. Amazing route done in 8hours
Route done in testing conditions, very windy, bad visibility, rain and hail. Amazing route done in 8hours
Shane Nowakowski 31 Jul AltLd
Amy Kilpin 25 Jul 2nd
Kit Kline 25 Jul 2nd O/S
justaddpowder 21 Sep, 2018 - Left at 0500 and reached first abseil in the dawn. Steady climbing on fixed rope or between bolts to the summitt ridge which was mixed snow and rock. Summitt at 1000. Long way down with abseils to the Coll then along the ridge with a cheeky 3a move around a corner to the glacier and then to the Monch hut. Hut aprox 2000. Cloud building into the eve
with David Webster
Left at 0500 and reached first abseil in the dawn. Steady climbing on fixed rope or between bolts to the summitt ridge which was mixed snow and rock. Summitt at 1000. Long way down with abseils to the Coll then along the ridge with a cheeky 3a move around a corner to the glacier and then to the Monch hut. Hut aprox 2000. Cloud building into the eve
with David Webster
Webster 20 Sep, 2018 Lead stunning ridge somewhat spoiled by all the fixed ropes. easy for the grade using the ropes but would be desperate when not under good snow without them! significantly easier than the hornli
stunning ridge somewhat spoiled by all the fixed ropes. easy for the grade using the ropes but would be desperate when not under good snow without them! significantly easier than the hornli
Richard Ellis 6 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
with Dave Kenyon
with Dave Kenyon
JPSmith 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Neil Palfrey
with Neil Palfrey
Hidden 15 Jul, 2018 2nd
Cragcloud 14 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Amazing!
with Maria Elizabeth Oskarsdottir
Amazing!
with Maria Elizabeth Oskarsdottir
James Tamlyn ??, 2018 2nd
with A.R.N Chatto
with A.R.N Chatto
Fiona_H 30 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Owen
with Owen
Hidden 30 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Si 19 Jun, 2017 AltLd Totally to ourselves! Chossy to hut, super evening in the bivouac hut as main one not open. Just under 5 hours to summit; good fun if serious in places. 6 hours summit to Monchjoch hut. Up and down and snow porridge on glacier. Great trip out
Totally to ourselves! Chossy to hut, super evening in the bivouac hut as main one not open. Just under 5 hours to summit; good fun if serious in places. 6 hours summit to Monchjoch hut. Up and down and snow porridge on glacier. Great trip out
Everetta ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Wolfie
with Wolfie
MatthewH 26 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S Perfect conditions. Amazing route.
Perfect conditions. Amazing route.
keithru 17 Aug, 2016 - Left at 4:45 from Mittellegi hut. Summit at 8:30. Down at 12:30 at Jungfraujoch. Unfortunately light snow and low visibility most of day with deep snow on last part. Assent to the hut however the previous day seemed very easy.
Left at 4:45 from Mittellegi hut. Summit at 8:30. Down at 12:30 at Jungfraujoch. Unfortunately light snow and low visibility most of day with deep snow on last part. Assent to the hut however the previous day seemed very easy.
Hidden 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd
thomas108 ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd 3h 50m to summit
with Sami
3h 50m to summit
with Sami
Robin Clothier 24 Aug, 2015 -
with AmyG
with AmyG
AmyG 24 Aug, 2015 -
Hannah V 3 Aug, 2015 2nd Mixed conditions from 3600m. Crampons on/off x10 (?) between Mittellegi hut and Jungfraujoch. Quite a lot of groups on the ridge. Almost 5 hrs Mittellegi hut to summit, 4 hours from summit to Monchjoch hut. Terrific route even with fixed ropes!
with Rocio Siemens
Mixed conditions from 3600m. Crampons on/off x10 (?) between Mittellegi hut and Jungfraujoch. Quite a lot of groups on the ridge. Almost 5 hrs Mittellegi hut to summit, 4 hours from summit to Monchjoch hut. Terrific route even with fixed ropes!
with Rocio Siemens
birks3746 ?Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S 3 day Mittellegi Integrale via Ostegg hut. Well worth it after seeing the standard ascent to the Mittellegi hut
with Phil
3 day Mittellegi Integrale via Ostegg hut. Well worth it after seeing the standard ascent to the Mittellegi hut
with Phil
picasso 29 Jul, 2015 AltLd With Florian and Luca, caught in some fierce weather at the summit. horrendous decsent in some very testing conditions.
With Florian and Luca, caught in some fierce weather at the summit. horrendous decsent in some very testing conditions.
Marti999 7 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Fantastic route great weather, only one other group on ridge, long decent down south ridge. 12hr hut to hut.
Fantastic route great weather, only one other group on ridge, long decent down south ridge. 12hr hut to hut.
peter.ravenscroft27 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd dnf Did not complete... turned around due to WAY too much snow on last rock step. what a shame, such a sweet route. I will be Back for sure. Mittellegi hut is great.
with Ben Hester
Did not complete... turned around due to WAY too much snow on last rock step. what a shame, such a sweet route. I will be Back for sure. Mittellegi hut is great.
with Ben Hester
BALD EAGLE 21 Aug, 2013 -
with James Pomeroy, David Martinez Majo
with James Pomeroy, David Martinez Majo
Poco Loco 21 Aug, 2013 AltLd Excellent. A hardish pitch starting up to the hut (UK 4c?) running with water. The difficulties are condition dependent - some verglass early in the morning was tough, ok when it warmed up later. Some fantastically exposed sections, never too hard but serious and some loose rock. The final snow ridge was amazing too. Long descent down the south ridge.
with David M, BALD EAGLE
Excellent. A hardish pitch starting up to the hut (UK 4c?) running with water. The difficulties are condition dependent - some verglass early in the morning was tough, ok when it warmed up later. Some fantastically exposed sections, never too hard but serious and some loose rock. The final snow ridge was amazing too. Long descent down the south ridge.
with David M, BALD EAGLE
Davidmcneill125 15 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Michael 1 Aug, 2013 -
Vincej ?Aug, 2013 2nd
nking100 ??, 2013 -
JohnH1977 ?Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Loubylou 1 Aug, 2012 2nd
with Russell Braddock
with Russell Braddock
stuardo ?Aug, 2012 -
pawelx 31 Jul, 2012 - descent via south ridge. 4 hrs to the summit, 10 hrs Mittellegi Hut to Monch hut. Hardest free climbing is on the approach to the hut, and climbing the towers on the descent! 9:40 on the summit, perfect conditions and views.
descent via south ridge. 4 hrs to the summit, 10 hrs Mittellegi Hut to Monch hut. Hardest free climbing is on the approach to the hut, and climbing the towers on the descent! 9:40 on the summit, perfect conditions and views.
Hidden 27 Jul, 2012 -
Hidden 26 Jul, 2012 -
Hidden 26 Jul, 2012 -
carrierd65 26 Jul, 2012 2nd Andy Teasdale
Andy Teasdale
mugglewump ?Jun, 2012 Lead 3rd assent of the year
3rd assent of the year
Tommy Harris 10 Sep, 2011 - 2nd time ive climbed this route, managed it this time in a weekend trip from the UK, hard with not acclimatising but still a great weekend away.
2nd time ive climbed this route, managed it this time in a weekend trip from the UK, hard with not acclimatising but still a great weekend away.
Adam Booth 9 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Amazing
with gowla
Amazing
with gowla
gowla 9 Sep, 2011 -
with will kumar, adam booth
with will kumar, adam booth
Hidden 6 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
mattkemp70 ?Sep, 2011 Lead
with Tommy
with Tommy
Hidden 25 Aug, 2011 -
Julian Prieto 16 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Rob N 6 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Excellent route. Slabs on the south face were tricky due to waterfalls and loose snow. Lots of snow and ice so crampons all day. One other team on the route.
with colenn
Excellent route. Slabs on the south face were tricky due to waterfalls and loose snow. Lots of snow and ice so crampons all day. One other team on the route.
with colenn
colenn 6 Sep, 2010 AltLd Twas only us, 2 Chinese guides and quite a bit of snow on the Ridge. It's an outstanding climb - every bit of the way.
with Rob N
Twas only us, 2 Chinese guides and quite a bit of snow on the Ridge. It's an outstanding climb - every bit of the way.
with Rob N
Tommy Harris ?Jul, 2010 Lead great route,great weather...
with phillip belcher
great route,great weather...
with phillip belcher
Joubert ?Jul, 2010 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 AltLd dnf
Hidden 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Mountain Llama 11 Sep, 2009 2nd
with Andy
with Andy
KRB 7 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Excellent climb, excellent weather, excellent day. Summited in shorts and exited via the South Ridge which was varied and absorbing all the way. Martin's 1st ever summit and the 1st time he has ever worn crampons - an old pair which he borrowed, along with walking boots, ice-axe, gaiters, helmet, underpants...
with Martin Bridges
Excellent climb, excellent weather, excellent day. Summited in shorts and exited via the South Ridge which was varied and absorbing all the way. Martin's 1st ever summit and the 1st time he has ever worn crampons - an old pair which he borrowed, along with walking boots, ice-axe, gaiters, helmet, underpants...
with Martin Bridges
JMarkW 29 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Richard York
with Richard York
lost.arrow 26 Aug, 2008 AltLd
with Stu Sherwood
with Stu Sherwood
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
Chris Plewa ?Jul, 2008 -
Darragh ?Jul, 2008 - Straightforward climbing (even on wet rock) assuming you use the fixed ropes, but really amazing exposure. It probably depends on conditions etc., but as of summer '08 all the local guides etc. I spoke to advised descent by South Ridge, not West Flank. (Route-finding & especially rockfall are v. problematic on the latter, apparently.) South Ridge decent is long but easy. (Two ropes gets you onto easy ground in 2 or 3 abs. from a little past summit.)
with Mark
Straightforward climbing (even on wet rock) assuming you use the fixed ropes, but really amazing exposure. It probably depends on conditions etc., but as of summer '08 all the local guides etc. I spoke to advised descent by South Ridge, not West Flank. (Route-finding & especially rockfall are v. problematic on the latter, apparently.) South Ridge decent is long but easy. (Two ropes gets you onto easy ground in 2 or 3 abs. from a little past summit.)
with Mark
Hidden 27 Jul, 2007 -
martinuk1001 ?Jul, 2006 -
Brian Phillips 1 Aug, 2005 - Great climb. Fantastic exposure. Long exciting descent down South Ridge to Monch hut. If you are competent in the mountains you don't need a guide. Route finding is obvious. Make sure you make reservations for the hut in Grindelwald beforehand. The hut fraulein gets angry if you just show up.
with Peter
Great climb. Fantastic exposure. Long exciting descent down South Ridge to Monch hut. If you are competent in the mountains you don't need a guide. Route finding is obvious. Make sure you make reservations for the hut in Grindelwald beforehand. The hut fraulein gets angry if you just show up.
with Peter
Rob Griffiths ?Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Norman Vernon
with Norman Vernon
Hidden 30 Jul, 2005 2nd
Celia Watson 30 Jul, 2005 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
Ian JL ?Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Henderson
with Duncan Henderson
DerwentDiluted ?Jul, 2003 AltLd dnf turned back by thunderstorm
with Tim Stain
turned back by thunderstorm
with Tim Stain
ashpreston ??, 2003 -
ian bryant ?Aug, 2001 2nd O/S
with walter
with walter
Hidden ??, 1997 -
Hidden 10 Aug, 1994 Lead
Andy Say 27 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S Busy day - 22 parties on the route. Good day though!
Busy day - 22 parties on the route. Good day though!
gallonj ??, 1994 -
mark mcgowan01 ?Jul, 1992 -
with Ian Haliday
with Ian Haliday
Dave ??, 1991 AltLd
wercat 24 Aug, 1990 Lead O/S Date is approximate. What a breathtaking route. Started OK but we slowed up, straight off the plane so unacclimatised. Bivvy in thunderstorm descending the W Flank. Summit was bare rock!
Date is approximate. What a breathtaking route. Started OK but we slowed up, straight off the plane so unacclimatised. Bivvy in thunderstorm descending the W Flank. Summit was bare rock!
John Marsland ??, 1983 -
with Tony Rex
with Tony Rex
migs493 15 Aug, 1982 Lead O/S
RichardMc 16 Jul, 1981 -
with Dave Lund
with Dave Lund
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Voting
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High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set