The Mittellegi Ridge is probably the most popular route on the Eiger. It is a fantastic steep knife edged ridge offering excellent climbing with little or no objective danger. 4 to 8 hours from Mittellegi Hut

Yuko Maki, Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand & Fritz Steuri 10/Sep/1921

Ticklists: Top quality Alps under 4000m.

Hidden 30/Aug Lead O/S
Si 19/Jun AltLd

Totally to ourselves! Chossy to hut, super evening in the bivouac hut as main one not open. Just under 5 hours to summit; good fun if serious in places. 6 hours summit to Monchjoch hut. Up and down and snow porridge on glacier. Great trip out

MatthewH 26/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Perfect conditions. Amazing route.

keithru 17/Aug/16 -

Left at 4:45 from Mittellegi hut. Summit at 8:30. Down at 12:30 at Jungfraujoch. Unfortunately light snow and low visibility most of day with deep snow on last part. Assent to the hut however the previous day seemed very easy.

Hidden 13/Aug/16 AltLd
thomas108 ??/2016 -
Steve Woollard 31/Aug/15 AltLd

3h 50m to summit

with Sami
RClothier 24/Aug/15 -
with AmyG
AmyG 24/Aug/15 -
with Robin
Hannah V 03/Aug/15 2nd

Mixed conditions from 3600m. Crampons on/off x10 (?) between Mittellegi hut and Jungfraujoch. Quite a lot of groups on the ridge. Almost 5 hrs Mittellegi hut to summit, 4 hours from summit to Monchjoch hut. Terrific route even with fixed ropes!

with Rocio Siemens
birks3746 ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

3 day Mittellegi Integrale via Ostegg hut. Well worth it after seeing the standard ascent to the Mittellegi hut

with Phil
picasso 29/Jul/15 AltLd

With Florian and Luca, caught in some fierce weather at the summit. horrendous decsent in some very testing conditions.

Marti999 07/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic route great weather, only one other group on ridge, long decent down south ridge. 12hr hut to hut.

with Debbie
peter.ravenscroft27 08/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Did not complete... turned around due to WAY too much snow on last rock step. what a shame, such a sweet route. I will be Back for sure. Mittellegi hut is great.

with Ben Hester
BALD EAGLE 21/Aug/13 -
with James Pomeroy, David Martinez Majo
Poco Loco 21/Aug/13 AltLd

Excellent. A hardish pitch starting up to the hut (UK 4c?) running with water. The difficulties are condition dependent - some verglass early in the morning was tough, ok when it warmed up later. Some fantastically exposed sections, never too hard but serious and some loose rock. The final snow ridge was amazing too. Long descent down the south ridge.

with David M, Bald Eagle
Davidmcneill125 15/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Michael 01/Aug/13 -
Vincej ?/Aug/13 2nd
nking100 ??/2013 -
Loubylou 01/Aug/12 2nd
with Russell Braddock
pawelx 31/Jul/12 -

descent via south ridge. 4 hrs to the summit, 10 hrs Mittellegi Hut to Monch hut. Hardest free climbing is on the approach to the hut, and climbing the towers on the descent! 9:40 on the summit, perfect conditions and views.

Hidden 27/Jul/12 -
Hidden 26/Jul/12 -
mugglewump ?/Jun/12 Lead

3rd assent of the year

Tommy Harris 10/Sep/11 -

2nd time ive climbed this route, managed it this time in a weekend trip from the UK, hard with not acclimatising but still a great weekend away.

Adam Booth 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S


gowla 09/Sep/11 -
with will kumar, adam booth
Hidden 06/Sep/11 Lead O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Sep/11 Lead
with Tommy
Hidden 25/Aug/11 -
Julian Prieto 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Rob N 06/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Excellent route. Slabs on the south face were tricky due to waterfalls and loose snow. Lots of snow and ice so crampons all day. One other team on the route.

with colenn
colenn 06/Sep/10 AltLd

Twas only us, 2 Chinese guides and quite a bit of snow on the Ridge. It's an outstanding climb - every bit of the way.

Tommy Harris ?/Jul/10 Lead

great route,great weather...

with phillip belcher
Joubert ?/Jul/10 -
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Mountain Llama 11/Sep/09 2nd
with Andy
KRB 07/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Excellent climb, excellent weather, excellent day. Summited in shorts and exited via the South Ridge which was varied and absorbing all the way. Martin's 1st ever summit and the 1st time he has ever worn crampons - an old pair which he borrowed, along with walking boots, ice-axe, gaiters, helmet, underpants...

with Martin Bridges
Hidden 29/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 26/Aug/08 AltLd
with Stu Sherwood
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Chris Plewa ?/Jul/08 -
Darragh ?/Jul/08 -

Straightforward climbing (even on wet rock) assuming you use the fixed ropes, but really amazing exposure. It probably depends on conditions etc., but as of summer '08 all the local guides etc. I spoke to advised descent by South Ridge, not West Flank. (Route-finding & especially rockfall are v. problematic on the latter, apparently.) South Ridge decent is long but easy. (Two ropes gets you onto easy ground in 2 or 3 abs. from a little past summit.)

with Mark
Hidden 27/Jul/07 -
martinuk1001 ?/Jul/06 -
Brian Phillips 01/Aug/05 -

Great climb. Fantastic exposure. Long exciting descent down South Ridge to Monch hut. If you are competent in the mountains you don't need a guide. Route finding is obvious. Make sure you make reservations for the hut in Grindelwald beforehand. The hut fraulein gets angry if you just show up.

with Peter
Hidden 30/Jul/05 2nd
Celia Watson 30/Jul/05 Lead
Dave Latimer ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Ian JL ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Henderson
DerwentDiluted ?/Jul/03 AltLd dnf

turned back by thunderstorm

with Tim Stain
ashpreston ??/2003 -
ian bryant ?/Aug/01 2nd O/S
with walter
Hidden ??/1997 -
Andy Say 27/Jul/94 Lead O/S

Busy day - 22 parties on the route. Good day though!

gallonj ??/1994 -
mark mcgowan01 ?/Jul/92 -
with Ian Haliday
Dave ??/1991 AltLd
wercat 24/Aug/90 Lead O/S

Date is approximate. What a breathtaking route. Started OK but we slowed up, straight off the plane so unacclimatised. Bivvy in thunderstorm descending the W Flank. Summit was bare rock!

John Marsland ??/1983 -
with Tony Rex
RichardMc 16/Jul/81 -
with Dave Lund
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