42m, 2 pitches. 1)24m 5a. Climb the vegetated flake crack to a grovel up a overhanging filthy groove to a good ledge below an obvious horror offwidth crack!
2)18m 5c. Climb the horrific crack, apparently laybacking is the way forward, but getting in the crack and 'thrutching' is THE correct and classic *** way to do it!.Times change 1956 on the FA the first pitch was fairly clean of vegetation.

Paul Ross and Peter Lockey 29/May/1956

Ticklists: Wide Cracks.

Franco Cookson OLD 06/Jun/08 Lead dnf

A dangerous scramble up to the bottom of the route, claimed my rucksack- down, off the cliff. We then set out on the '3 starred line'. Dooge ran out a fair few metres over classic 5a rock- covered in ferns, grass, mud, general grease. He nearly lost it, especially when the 'eagles' swooped in, but he got to the ledge and brought me up to the ledge. I geared up and slithered up- ramming a leg jam in the overhanging crack. This is how i attacked it- one leg in the crack, one off-width and the other limbs trying to get something on the grease. We had forgotten the large friend, so the only gear was one in-situ wire. The only problem was one of it's wires had rusted through so only friction was keeping the nut head on. I led on scarred and knackered- made my own fist jam out of a pile of chockstones and led up the green crux. I was slipping and the holds were buried. I eventually had to down climb the whole route- It was too steep to ab for the gear. A failure, but an experience. We abed off a suspect in-situ green sling and went for some food and a 'look' at Bleak How. We later looked through a more modern guide, that said a bird ban had been in place for 6 years- explained a lot about the filth. The 'Eagles' were probably peregrines. We didn't know though so shouldn't feel too guilty.

Dave Warburton 06/Jun/08 AltLd dnf

First pitch is absolute choss. Filthy, wet & loose in parts, BUT it is in a great situation, with a few awkward 4c/5a moves and although i hated every minute and especially the finishing groove (grovel!) i felt extremely good (relieved?) when i got to the ledge. Franco followed and laughed at how a 4c/5a pitch could have been soo Epic! Franco then attempted to climb the Crack but it was covered in a green wet film and after a valiant effort, we retreated off. Battered, muddy but we felt we had accomplished something? :-)

jim robertson ??/2006 -
craig h 29/Jul/96 AltLd

Luke took a couple of falls onto the chockstone on the 2nd pitch, it then fell out when I used it as an undercling.

with Luke Steer
Hidden 06/Jul/86 Lead
uphillnow ?/Jul/85 Lead dnf

thunderstorm came in whilst on crux - lowered off

Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Pedro50 20/May/78 AltLd O/S
with Wil Hurford
Hidden 24/Sep/77 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1977 AltLd O/S

John needed 10 minutes to recover at the top before he could set the belay. I told him to keep taking in and did a desperate layback.

with John Bogg
Paul Clarke ??/1976 AltLd
with FMC
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