3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
140m. Something of an esoteric classic which doesn't see much traffic any more, this still provides a decent day out if you fancy an adventure. There is minimal fixed gear other than old pegs and the odd sling at the belays.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, descend towards Lac Blanc for 50m then take the jeep track on the left which takes you up towards the Grande Floria and Aiguillette de la Floria. Just after the path branches off to the Grande Floria, the jeep track crests a small col and begins to descend rightwards. When it does this, cut off left and pass under the Aiguillette de la Floria and then climb up to the top of the Floria drag lift. 20m past the drag lift take a path off left, across the scree slope and under the foot of Pointe Gaspard. Climb the gully above, on the left initially, following a grassy path. Climb the scree to the foot of the route.
1) 3b, 30m. Traverse right to reach a deep chimney.
2) 3c, 40m. Climb this initially then step right and climb the crest of the pillar before coming back left to belay.
3) 3c, 40m. Climb the slabby ramp just to the left of the corner. There are two pegs to belay off at the end of this pitch but back them up.
4) 5a/A0, 30m. Move left (crux), making use of one of the belay pegs (6b if done free), and then climb more easily to reach the top of Lux.
Descent - Descend the Crochues Traverse via combination of downclimbing and abseiling. It is also possible to abseil Lux. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This is a 4 pitch rock climb followed by an exposed ridge scramble. Hike up the gully under the col des Aiguilles Crochues until you can exit by an obvious ledge on the right. From the RH end of the ledge traverse into a chimney system which leads to the top in 3 pitches. Follow the narrow ridge to the Col des Dards and descend the path to Lac Blanc.

Katrina 05/Sep/16 2nd
ChambersPP ?/Jul/16 -
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead
John HW 28/Jun/11 AltLd
with Si Naylor
knicos ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 15/Jul/08 -
Hidden 15/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Maarten2 05/Aug/07 AltLd

The ramp is great. Climbed according to old Piola Guide, so was flummoxed by last pitch. The supposed Aid move relies on a very rusty peg - so be prepared for a F6a move.

with Astrid, Urs
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead dnf
alek 16/Jul/06 AltLd dnf

Chossy death trap

Piers Harley ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Chris Grimble
Stuie 27/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Jon lead p1,p3 Stu lead p2,p4 James Second

with Jon Rogerson & James Dell
dellboy 27/Jun/06 2nd O/S

Climbed as part of the Traverse of the Crochues, very good climb and you avoid all the crowds completing the traverse

with Stu Heald, Jon Rogerson
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jul/03 AltLd
Ed Saint 10/Sep/01 -

One hard pitch midway up the face after the ramp.

with A Long
liz j ?/Sep/01 2nd
with neil brodie
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
bandersnatch ??/2000 Lead
with Mairi B
fellgazelle ?/Sep/99 AltLd O/S

My 1988 guide book (The Mont Blanc Range Topo guide by Michel Piola) gave very little description but claimed the final pitch was 4. We climbed the last pitch free and remember thinking this is hard for 4!

with Alan Haigh
bandersnatch ??/1996 Lead
with Mairi B
Hidden 21/Aug/90 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jul/90 Lead
bobelvedere 24/Jul/89 AltLd
with Andreas Frey
freeheel47 ?/Jul/87 -
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High D
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High AD+
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High 5b
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