Rockfax Description
140m. Something of an esoteric classic which doesn't see much traffic any more, this still provides a decent day out if you fancy an adventure. There is minimal fixed gear other than old pegs and the odd sling at the belays.
1) 3b, 30m. Traverse right to reach a deep chimney.
2) 3c, 40m. Climb this initially then step right and climb the crest of the pillar before coming back left to belay.
3) 3c, 40m. Climb the slabby ramp just to the left of the corner. There are two pegs to belay off at the end of this pitch but back them up.
4) 5a/A0, 30m. Move left (crux), making use of one of the belay pegs (6b if done free), and then climb more easily to reach the top of Lux. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This is a 4 pitch rock climb followed by an exposed ridge scramble. Hike up the gully under the col des Aiguilles Crochues until you can exit by an obvious ledge on the right. From the RH end of the ledge traverse into a chimney system which leads to the top in 3 pitches. Follow the narrow ridge to the Col des Dards and descend the path to Lac Blanc.

Ticklists

BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range

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