From the Argentiere hut make an early start as the climb faces SE. Climb the true right bank of the Amythests Glacier until under the couloir. Cross the bergschrund (often tricky) and enter and climb the 45 degree snow couloir. Follow the East ridge to the top with little difficulty

H Camare Jul/1922

Ticklists: Top quality Alps under 4000m, Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017.

Pero 29/Jun/16 -
cmars89 23/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Boot packed & skied

Tom Cox 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

5 hours from bergschrund to summit. Descent by milieu glacier

SteveJCox 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Cox
ndraper1 06/Jul/14 -

Dug a four man snow hole at the foot of the couloir(3200m, lookers left). Simul-climbed whole route with no difficulties, waterfall at start but two easy mixed steps. Good snow/neve on route, best high up. Took right hand exit. Emerging onto the ridge is an elegant finish.Descended down the Milieu to GM mid station. 700m ascent(3 hrs), 2000m descent (6hrs).

david_brookes 18/Apr/14 AltLd
Ulgrid 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Early morning ascent to avoid the melt. White-out at the top. A great practice for alpine skills.

with Dave
Rafal Malczyk 01/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Efe Tunc
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S
thomaspomfrett 01/Jul/13 AltLd

Moved together but belayed a couple of times to swing the leader

with Will Groat
efetunc 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Simul-climbed the whole way with two technical ice axes. Avalanche prone conditions (half frozen wind slabs above the bergschrund above Milieu glacier) on the way down made descent particularly difficult. This climb is overrated, rather boring.

with Rafal Malczyk
Strachan 01/Jul/13 -

Moved together. Variable snow conditions... icy runnels and unconsolidated banks. Interesting descent down Milieu Glacier headwall in soft snow.

stanleynkk ?/Jun/13 AltLd
with Oliver Alderman
alasdair19 ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
ianstevens 27/Aug/12 AltLd dnf

Retreat due to poor weather

Hidden 19/Jul/12 Lead
BFG ?/Jun/12 Lead
QuentinSu ?/Mar/12 Solo O/S
Kris ?/Mar/12 Solo

Ski descent

Hidden 13/Aug/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 13/Aug/11 AltLd dnf
efetunc ?/Aug/11 AltLd dnf

Bergschrund was too big and wet at 4:00am due to very warm weather preceeding the attempt.

mark_jc ?/Jun/11 -
Ollie B 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

moved together.

with S.Bennett
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
Hidden 12/Jul/01 Solo O/S
adamwesthead ?/Dec/00 Lead O/S
with Hoult
Hidden 30/Jul/00 -
Jim Walton 20/Jul/98 AltLd
with Matthew Stammers
Hidden 15/Jul/89 AltLd
Rob Kennard ?/Aug/88 -
with Ian Lees
6 users have this on their wishlist
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set