From the Argentiere hut make an early start as the climb faces SE. Climb the true right bank of the Amythests Glacier until under the couloir. Cross the bergschrund (often tricky) and enter and climb the 45 degree snow couloir. Follow the East ridge to the top with little difficulty

H Camare Jul/1922

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Top quality Alps under 4000m

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Ben Collins 17 Jun AltLd O/S
jontydlh 17 Jun Lead O/S Cux at bottom needs a good freeze - running water beneath ice, even at 5:30am. Otherwise reasonably good condition throughout - comparable to a long Scottish II gully? Bivvied 30 mins above refuge before, and descended Glacier du Milieu after (snow bridges became weak by midday in the sun).
with Ben Collins, Sam Peel
Cux at bottom needs a good freeze - running water beneath ice, even at 5:30am. Otherwise reasonably good condition throughout - comparable to a long Scottish II gully? Bivvied 30 mins above refuge before, and descended Glacier du Milieu after (snow bridges became weak by midday in the sun).
with Ben Collins, Sam Peel
Hidden 27 Apr, 2018 -
Pero 29 Jun, 2016 -
cmars89 23 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Boot packed & skied
Boot packed & skied
Tom Cox 15 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S 5 hours from bergschrund to summit. Descent by milieu glacier
5 hours from bergschrund to summit. Descent by milieu glacier
SteveJCox 15 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Tom Cox
with Tom Cox
ndraper1 6 Jul, 2014 - Dug a four man snow hole at the foot of the couloir(3200m, lookers left). Simul-climbed whole route with no difficulties, waterfall at start but two easy mixed steps. Good snow/neve on route, best high up. Took right hand exit. Emerging onto the ridge is an elegant finish.Descended down the Milieu to GM mid station. 700m ascent(3 hrs), 2000m descent (6hrs).
Dug a four man snow hole at the foot of the couloir(3200m, lookers left). Simul-climbed whole route with no difficulties, waterfall at start but two easy mixed steps. Good snow/neve on route, best high up. Took right hand exit. Emerging onto the ridge is an elegant finish.Descended down the Milieu to GM mid station. 700m ascent(3 hrs), 2000m descent (6hrs).
Hidden 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd
Ulgrid 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Early morning ascent to avoid the melt. White-out at the top. A great practice for alpine skills.
Early morning ascent to avoid the melt. White-out at the top. A great practice for alpine skills.
Rafal Malczyk 1 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Efe Tunc
with Efe Tunc
Hidden 1 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
thomaspomfrett 1 Jul, 2013 AltLd Moved together but belayed a couple of times to swing the leader
with Will Groat
Moved together but belayed a couple of times to swing the leader
with Will Groat
efetunc 1 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Simul-climbed the whole way with two technical ice axes. Avalanche prone conditions (half frozen wind slabs above the bergschrund above Milieu glacier) on the way down made descent particularly difficult. This climb is overrated, rather boring.
Simul-climbed the whole way with two technical ice axes. Avalanche prone conditions (half frozen wind slabs above the bergschrund above Milieu glacier) on the way down made descent particularly difficult. This climb is overrated, rather boring.
Strachan 1 Jul, 2013 - Moved together. Variable snow conditions... icy runnels and unconsolidated banks. Interesting descent down Milieu Glacier headwall in soft snow.
Moved together. Variable snow conditions... icy runnels and unconsolidated banks. Interesting descent down Milieu Glacier headwall in soft snow.
stanleynkk ?Jun, 2013 AltLd
with Oliver Alderman
with Oliver Alderman
alasdair19 ??, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
ianstevens 27 Aug, 2012 AltLd dnf Retreat due to poor weather
Retreat due to poor weather
ashtond6 19 Jul, 2012 Lead
BFG ?Jun, 2012 Lead
QuentinSu ?Mar, 2012 Solo O/S
Kris ?Mar, 2012 Solo Ski descent
Ski descent
Hidden 13 Aug, 2011 AltLd dnf
Hidden 13 Aug, 2011 AltLd dnf
efetunc ?Aug, 2011 AltLd dnf Bergschrund was too big and wet at 4:00am due to very warm weather preceeding the attempt.
Bergschrund was too big and wet at 4:00am due to very warm weather preceeding the attempt.
mark_jc ?Jun, 2011 -
Ollie B 21 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S moved together.
with S.Bennett
moved together.
with S.Bennett
jamieevans ??, 2009 AltLd
AndrewJenkins ??, 2008 -
Hidden 12 Jul, 2001 Solo O/S
adamwesthead ?Dec, 2000 Lead O/S
with Hoult
with Hoult
Hidden 30 Jul, 2000 -
Jim Walton 20 Jul, 1998 AltLd
with Matthew Stammers
with Matthew Stammers
Hidden 15 Jul, 1989 AltLd
John Rothwell ??, 1989 Lead
Rob Kennard ?Aug, 1988 -
with Ian Lees
with Ian Lees
Neil McA 26 Jun, 1985 AltLd
with Jerry Hadwin
with Jerry Hadwin
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