254m, 6 pitches.
A superb line up the prominent gully in the centre of the north face, finishing on the summit. Can be climbed over anywhere between six and nine pitches. Fewer, longer pitches are more efficient, but involves carrying more gear and rope drag can be an issue.
i) 50m, 13. Start on the right of the gully at the foot of the tower leaning against the face. Climb up to the right of the gully, staying out of the vegetation. At 38m is a large ledge, 6m below a prominent roof, with a fixed black abseil rope (potential belay position). Continue up the gully and the left wall (not much protection) for a further 11m to belay.
ii) 35m, 14. Go up face to the left of the gully, up a short corner and left past another roof (potential belay position). Then climb a superb 15m corner (crux, but well protected) to a large grassy ledge, the Prickle Traverse. This traverse can be followed right (west) to join the tourist trail (potential escape route).
iii) 30m, 14. A good, well-protected pitch up the buttress 4m right of the gully. Belay on ledge 6m below roof in the gully.
iv) 50m, 14. Up and right to overhangs at left end of the roof (potential belay position), past long protruding spike. Climb face 4m right of gully until 5m below a cave.
v) 40m, 13. Continue up to cave (potential belay position), then airy traverse left for 10m to left-hand branch of the gully an dup into the loose chimney. Before entering another cave, move left onto the left wall (piton). Follow the leftward gully then move left to an airy stance.
vi) 45m, 12. Steep wall (optional) then easier rock followed by pleseant, steep and airy climbing to finishing platform (potential belay position). Scramble for 20-25m up the gully to the summit.
i) 50m, 13. Start on the right of the gully at the foot of the tower leaning against the face. Climb up to the right of the gully, staying out of the vegetation. At 38m is a large ledge, 6m below a prominent roof, with a fixed black abseil rope (potential belay position). Continue up the gully and the left wall (not much protection) for a further 11m to belay.
ii) 35m, 14. Go up face to the left of the gully, up a short corner and left past another roof (potential belay position). Then climb a superb 15m corner (crux, but well protected) to a large grassy ledge, the Prickle Traverse. This traverse can be followed right (west) to join the tourist trail (potential escape route).
iii) 30m, 14. A good, well-protected pitch up the buttress 4m right of the gully. Belay on ledge 6m below roof in the gully.
iv) 50m, 14. Up and right to overhangs at left end of the roof (potential belay position), past long protruding spike. Climb face 4m right of gully until 5m below a cave.
v) 40m, 13. Continue up to cave (potential belay position), then airy traverse left for 10m to left-hand branch of the gully an dup into the loose chimney. Before entering another cave, move left onto the left wall (piton). Follow the leftward gully then move left to an airy stance.
vi) 45m, 12. Steep wall (optional) then easier rock followed by pleseant, steep and airy climbing to finishing platform (potential belay position). Scramble for 20-25m up the gully to the summit.
M. Adams, B. Lever Oct/1975.
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