150m, 3 pitches. An excellent route taking the crest of the prominent buttress defining the right
edge of The Art of Growing Old Gracefully.
1. 50m Start just right of the gully and climb the corner-ramp cutting through the
left side of the lower wall. Above, continue right via a steep chimney and climb
two steep walls to a terrace.
2. 40m Climb the centre of the short impending headwall above and continue
through the chimney splitting the giant boulder above. Belay on the prominent
terrace.
3. 50m Ascend the headwall by climbing first right, then left up a steep turfy
wall to reach an easier gully leading to the top.

S Richardson, T Chappell, H Wackerhage 10/Mar/2013

Ticklists

Chasing the Ephemeral

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
john irving 24 Feb, 2018 - Alpine conditions, some dry rock, lots of neve.
Alpine conditions, some dry rock, lots of neve.
el diablo 17 Feb, 2018 AltLd
Stuart Macfarlane 17 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S John led 1st & 3rd pitches
John led 1st & 3rd pitches
gregor 11 Feb, 2018 -
Pete23 11 Feb, 2018 AltLd
with Stephen Mors, Gregor
with Stephen Mors, Gregor
morsy 11 Feb, 2018 AltLd
with peter berwick, gregor imrie
with peter berwick, gregor imrie
Al_Mac 11 Feb, 2018 AltLd Eric P1/3. Guidebook pitch lengths seem optimistic - the 50m first pitch per the book must be heinous for rope drag. Eric belayed short which left me with the second wall and the split boulder. First pitch was powdered rock, second pitch was banked out with powder and the third was nice and icy, and more interesting with the direct line Eric took. Turf and neve was absolutely bomber. Early start avoided the worst of the wind which was building significant windslab on the eastern slopes.
with Eric H
Eric P1/3. Guidebook pitch lengths seem optimistic - the 50m first pitch per the book must be heinous for rope drag. Eric belayed short which left me with the second wall and the split boulder. First pitch was powdered rock, second pitch was banked out with powder and the third was nice and icy, and more interesting with the direct line Eric took. Turf and neve was absolutely bomber. Early start avoided the worst of the wind which was building significant windslab on the eastern slopes.
with Eric H
mark-abz 9 Feb, 2018 AltLd
with Toby B - AMC, carr0t
with Toby B - AMC, carr0t
carr0t 9 Feb, 2018 - In very good nick. Turf is solid
In very good nick. Turf is solid
Calum3610 9 Feb, 2018 AltLd Nick led the first and third pitches (crux on third), I led the second.
with QuicNic
Nick led the first and third pitches (crux on third), I led the second.
with QuicNic
QuicNic 9 Feb, 2018 AltLd rpt Good conditions. Split boulder cave was walkable (had to climb out of it last time) and top wall was very different; a bit banked out with good ice (not good enough for screws!) but quite steep. Probably the crux today (well mentally anyway).
Good conditions. Split boulder cave was walkable (had to climb out of it last time) and top wall was very different; a bit banked out with good ice (not good enough for screws!) but quite steep. Probably the crux today (well mentally anyway).
furbrow 8 Feb, 2018 AltLd It took perseverance to find the start in the mist. The first of the steep walls on the first pitch felt distinctly cruxy. The steep turfy wall at the top must have been obscured by snow - we weren't sure where to go, so took the easiest line off to the side.
with Bruce McC
It took perseverance to find the start in the mist. The first of the steep walls on the first pitch felt distinctly cruxy. The steep turfy wall at the top must have been obscured by snow - we weren't sure where to go, so took the easiest line off to the side.
with Bruce McC
nicjbuk 5 Feb, 2018 AltLd Good conditions on route
with ross nicol esq
Good conditions on route
with ross nicol esq
Hidden 21 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
nicjbuk 19 Jan, 2018 AltLd dnf Did a bit of this and a bit of art of aging Therefore dnf on both. We'll be back
with ross nicol esq
Did a bit of this and a bit of art of aging Therefore dnf on both. We'll be back
with ross nicol esq
Hidden 10 Jan, 2018 2nd
Robertgiddy 10 Jan, 2018 Lead Turf beginning to thaw but still good in the main, a refreeze of the damp snow would put the route in really nice condition.
with Butler!
Turf beginning to thaw but still good in the main, a refreeze of the damp snow would put the route in really nice condition.
with Butler!
Gordon JH 7 Jan, 2018 2nd
william henderson 7 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S Good route with some good moves throughout. Bomber turf and hooks. That boulder cave on the second pitch is fantastic. Second route of the day finished in the dark.
Good route with some good moves throughout. Bomber turf and hooks. That boulder cave on the second pitch is fantastic. Second route of the day finished in the dark.
DundeeDave 2 Jan, 2018 2nd
Yourlead 2 Jan, 2018 2nd Climbing as a three, with plenty of snow on the route. A surprisingly good climb and certainly worth stars. Turff frozen, but some digging required by Ewan to find the Gear and placements. Lost a big cam on top pitch.
with Dave Matthews, Ewan Gourlay
Climbing as a three, with plenty of snow on the route. A surprisingly good climb and certainly worth stars. Turff frozen, but some digging required by Ewan to find the Gear and placements. Lost a big cam on top pitch.
with Dave Matthews, Ewan Gourlay
Butler! ?Jan, 2018 2nd
Stuart the postie 17 Dec, 2017 AltLd Fun climbing before onset of thaw.
with Robin Clothier
Fun climbing before onset of thaw.
with Robin Clothier
Robin Clothier 17 Dec, 2017 AltLd
with Stuart mcfarlane
with Stuart mcfarlane
Hidden 16 Dec, 2017 AltLd
BPaske 16 Dec, 2017 AltLd
graeme gatherer 13 Dec, 2017 - Straightforward. Fun climbing
with Rab, Steve Elliot
Straightforward. Fun climbing
with Rab, Steve Elliot
Alex Thomson 10 Dec, 2017 -
with Phil Hudson
with Phil Hudson
QuicNic 24 Feb, 2017 AltLd Turf just about frozen enough for this to be in. Direct start not so. Was good fun but fairly broken and always escapable so it is really an eliminate. But saw no one all day and for that it's got to be worth it.
with cwsh4
Turf just about frozen enough for this to be in. Direct start not so. Was good fun but fairly broken and always escapable so it is really an eliminate. But saw no one all day and for that it's got to be worth it.
with cwsh4
abbeywall 24 Jan, 2015 AltLd Did first pitch, split at first head wall
with RL, FM
Did first pitch, split at first head wall
with RL, FM
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 9
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set