UKC

150m, 3 pitches. An excellent route taking the crest of the prominent buttress defining the right
edge of The Art of Growing Old Gracefully.
1. 50m Start just right of the gully and climb the corner-ramp cutting through the
left side of the lower wall. Above, continue right via a steep chimney and climb
two steep walls to a terrace.
2. 40m Climb the centre of the short impending headwall above and continue
through the chimney splitting the giant boulder above. Belay on the prominent
terrace.
3. 50m Ascend the headwall by climbing first right, then left up a steep turfy
wall to reach an easier gully leading to the top.

S Richardson, T Chappell, H Wackerhage 10/Mar/2013

Ticklists: Chasing the Ephemeral.


ClimberDateStyle
john irving 24/Feb -

Alpine conditions, some dry rock, lots of neve.

el diablo 17/Feb AltLd
Stuart Macfarlane 17/Feb AltLd O/S

John led 1st & 3rd pitches

gregor 11/Feb -
Pete23 11/Feb AltLd
with Stephen Mors, Gregor
morsy 11/Feb AltLd
with peter berwick, gregor imrie
Al_Mac 11/Feb AltLd

Eric P1/3. Guidebook pitch lengths seem optimistic - the 50m first pitch per the book must be heinous for rope drag. Eric belayed short which left me with the second wall and the split boulder. First pitch was powdered rock, second pitch was banked out with powder and the third was nice and icy, and more interesting with the direct line Eric took. Turf and neve was absolutely bomber. Early start avoided the worst of the wind which was building significant windslab on the eastern slopes.

with Eric H
mark-abz 09/Feb AltLd
with Toby B - AMC, carr0t
carr0t 09/Feb -

In very good nick. Turf is solid

Calum3610 09/Feb AltLd

Nick led the first and third pitches (crux on third), I led the second.

with QuicNic
QuicNic 09/Feb AltLd rpt

Good conditions. Split boulder cave was walkable (had to climb out of it last time) and top wall was very different; a bit banked out with good ice (not good enough for screws!) but quite steep. Probably the crux today (well mentally anyway).

furbrow 08/Feb AltLd

It took perseverance to find the start in the mist. The first of the steep walls on the first pitch felt distinctly cruxy. The steep turfy wall at the top must have been obscured by snow - we weren't sure where to go, so took the easiest line off to the side.

with Bruce McC
nicjbuk 05/Feb AltLd

Good conditions on route

with ross nicol esq
Hidden 21/Jan AltLd O/S
nicjbuk 19/Jan AltLd dnf

Did a bit of this and a bit of art of aging Therefore dnf on both. We'll be back

with ross nicol esq
OliverLevine 10/Jan 2nd
Robertgiddy 10/Jan Lead

Turf beginning to thaw but still good in the main, a refreeze of the damp snow would put the route in really nice condition.

with Butler!
Gordon JH 07/Jan 2nd
william henderson 07/Jan Lead O/S

Good route with some good moves throughout. Bomber turf and hooks. That boulder cave on the second pitch is fantastic. Second route of the day finished in the dark.

DundeeDave 02/Jan 2nd
Yourlead 02/Jan 2nd

Climbing as a three, with plenty of snow on the route. A surprisingly good climb and certainly worth stars. Turff frozen, but some digging required by Ewan to find the Gear and placements. Lost a big cam on top pitch.

with Dave Matthews, Ewan Gourlay
Butler! ?/Jan 2nd
Stuart the postie 17/Dec/17 AltLd

Fun climbing before onset of thaw.

with Robin Clothier
RClothier 17/Dec/17 AltLd
with Stuart mcfarlane
Hidden 16/Dec/17 AltLd
BPaske 16/Dec/17 AltLd
graeme gatherer 13/Dec/17 -

Straightforward. Fun climbing

with Rab, Steve Elliot
Alex Thomson 10/Dec/17 -
with Phil Hudson
QuicNic 24/Feb/17 AltLd

Turf just about frozen enough for this to be in. Direct start not so. Was good fun but fairly broken and always escapable so it is really an eliminate. But saw no one all day and for that it's got to be worth it.

with cwsh4
abbeywall 24/Jan/15 AltLd

Did first pitch, split at first head wall

with RL, FM
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
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High III
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Low III
Votes cast 9
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Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set