UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.
The direct line through the roof starting on undercuts at the back. Very bold...

Orrin Coley 01/Nov/2014.

Feedback

User Date Notes
ajhclimbing 3 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: One of Cademan's best
Show beta
βeta: One of Cademan's best
Orrin Coley 27 Feb, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The heel hook was broken at some point in the last few months? Reclimbed today with the exact same beta roughly at the same grade. It was obviously soft before but maybe more accurate now and more commiting...
Show beta
βeta: The heel hook was broken at some point in the last few months? Reclimbed today with the exact same beta roughly at the same grade. It was obviously soft before but maybe more accurate now and more commiting...

Logged Ascents

6 users have logged this
23 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Devil Smoke

Grade: f7B+ ***
(Markfield Quarry)

Loading Notifications...