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UKClimbing Team

110m, 3 pitches. Approach as for Farchal Gully but follow the snow/ice ramp that trends up right for 60 m to belay 4 m below corner. Climb the corner and icy chimney, exit and continue climbing up rightwards over a step to a flat area, belay. Above the flat area is a wall with a couple of left trending lines, climb the upper one to gain a leftwards traverse along a ramp and over a boulder (belay) go on leftwards to a short steep exit corner climb this to easy ground, belay in rocks near top.

Alex Thomson, Jenny Hill 04/Jan/2015

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
BPaske 24 Feb, 2018 AltLd
with Iain Roberston, Alex Thomson
with Iain Roberston, Alex Thomson
Alex Thomson 24 Feb, 2018 AltLd Easier than on first ascent due to a bigger build up of snow, great neve all the way. Grade confirmed at III 4 by others in party.
with Ben Paske, Iain Robertson
Easier than on first ascent due to a bigger build up of snow, great neve all the way. Grade confirmed at III 4 by others in party.
with Ben Paske, Iain Robertson
Calum3610 9 Feb, 2018 AltLd dnf To be fair we didn't really start this route either, Nick had a go at the corner on the first pitch and thought it was way harder than III4 under the current conditions. So we backed off and found a variation about 20m round to the right, going up a leftwards trending turfy ramp before a pull over to the flat area described in the route as the first belay point. I led this and think it was about III/IV. Does anyone know if this has been climbed before? Would be exciting if it hasn't! Nick then led the start of the second pitch, but again it wasn't in. So we moved off left into Farchal Gully and continued up that to the top. Also, please note there is a large loose boulder about the size of a man's torso at the start of the second pitch!
with QuicNic
To be fair we didn't really start this route either, Nick had a go at the corner on the first pitch and thought it was way harder than III4 under the current conditions. So we backed off and found a variation about 20m round to the right, going up a leftwards trending turfy ramp before a pull over to the flat area described in the route as the first belay point. I led this and think it was about III/IV. Does anyone know if this has been climbed before? Would be exciting if it hasn't! Nick then led the start of the second pitch, but again it wasn't in. So we moved off left into Farchal Gully and continued up that to the top. Also, please note there is a large loose boulder about the size of a man's torso at the start of the second pitch!
with QuicNic
QuicNic 9 Feb, 2018 AltLd dnf Must be significantly different conditions to go at tech 4. Probably tech 6 today to get into the chimney and I gave up. We went a little further up a the ramp and took a turfy left trending groove (at about III/IV) to get above the chimney exit. The second pitch contains a large and very loose boulder (great care required). The last pitch I only glanced at as was impossible on the day.....assuming we were in the right place. Continued leftwards into Farchal gully and to the top. We descended and then climbed STAtG.
Must be significantly different conditions to go at tech 4. Probably tech 6 today to get into the chimney and I gave up. We went a little further up a the ramp and took a turfy left trending groove (at about III/IV) to get above the chimney exit. The second pitch contains a large and very loose boulder (great care required). The last pitch I only glanced at as was impossible on the day.....assuming we were in the right place. Continued leftwards into Farchal gully and to the top. We descended and then climbed STAtG.
Hidden 4 Jan, 2015 -
Alex Thomson 4 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S FA
with jenpen
FA
with jenpen
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