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Top quality Alps under 4000m, The Big Easys

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Simon Caldwell 10 Sep Show βeta
βeta: As a balance to the comments from those who did the walk to the hut in half an hour, the route in another half, and arrived in Italy in time for breakfast: The walk in to the hut took us a little under 5 hours. Approach to the route the next morning, just under 2 hours. North ridge to the summit was 10 hours. Descent to Ginetti, 4 hours. The hut custodian wasn't aware of the details of the new ab descent (she thought it was an unofficial one for rescue purposes) so we took the old one - the guidebook description is pretty poor but the route is fairly well marked. We probably abbed some ground we could have down climbed but better safe than sorry. A total of 4 abseils. The rising ascent towards the old cross was longer than expected. From the cross the description is useless, we abseiled 30m straight down (next to the right hand chimney looking out), followed by a 45m ab to the ground. Path from there to the hut is easy enough, but occasionally tricky to follow in the dark!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As a balance to the comments from those who did the walk to the hut in half an hour, the route in another half, and arrived in Italy in time for breakfast: The walk in to the hut took us a little under 5 hours. Approach to the route the next morning, just under 2 hours. North ridge to the summit was 10 hours. Descent to Ginetti, 4 hours. The hut custodian wasn't aware of the details of the new ab descent (she thought it was an unofficial one for rescue purposes) so we took the old one - the guidebook description is pretty poor but the route is fairly well marked. We probably abbed some ground we could have down climbed but better safe than sorry. A total of 4 abseils. The rising ascent towards the old cross was longer than expected. From the cross the description is useless, we abseiled 30m straight down (next to the right hand chimney looking out), followed by a 45m ab to the ground. Path from there to the hut is easy enough, but occasionally tricky to follow in the dark!
GGD 18 Aug Show βeta
βeta: In descent. Really not as much faff as everyone makes out... 4/5 hours. 80m single nice as bolted rap anchors are supposedly 45m apart, although even with 80m a little down scrambling was sometimes required - never too hairy though.
 
Show beta
βeta: In descent. Really not as much faff as everyone makes out... 4/5 hours. 80m single nice as bolted rap anchors are supposedly 45m apart, although even with 80m a little down scrambling was sometimes required - never too hairy though.
Rob84 22 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Great route - easy but fantastic quality rock. Easy to move together and string multiple pitches together for good chunks of the route. The new approach since the rockfall from the Cengalo is not to be underestimated. It’s now a solid 5hrs from a car park a few hundred metres above Bondo, involving a fairly grim, ant infested and circuitous mission all over the mountain to get to the Sasc Fura hut. This takes you above the hut towards the Passo di Trubanesca and then back down to the hut before heading back up once again to the base of the N Ridge. Because you’re now starting basically from valley level in Switzerland with a long approach, it makes sense than before to descend to the Italian side (rather than descend the N Ridge) and catch public transport (easy enough and around 18euro) back round to Bondo. There is a new and excellent bolted abseil line on the Italian side which is a bit different to the Plaisir Swiss topo. Scramble down chossy ledges from the summit as per the topo to a single ring bolt and from here there are 5x50m abseils on double bolt abseil stations to get you onto the snow below. From there it’s an easy 40mins-1hr to the Ginetti Hut. We continued walking down to the valley the same day and found a decent auberge for 25euro pppn in St Martino just up the street from Bar Monica that was open until late to new arrivals. All in all a great mountain journey.
 
Show beta
βeta: Great route - easy but fantastic quality rock. Easy to move together and string multiple pitches together for good chunks of the route. The new approach since the rockfall from the Cengalo is not to be underestimated. It’s now a solid 5hrs from a car park a few hundred metres above Bondo, involving a fairly grim, ant infested and circuitous mission all over the mountain to get to the Sasc Fura hut. This takes you above the hut towards the Passo di Trubanesca and then back down to the hut before heading back up once again to the base of the N Ridge. Because you’re now starting basically from valley level in Switzerland with a long approach, it makes sense than before to descend to the Italian side (rather than descend the N Ridge) and catch public transport (easy enough and around 18euro) back round to Bondo. There is a new and excellent bolted abseil line on the Italian side which is a bit different to the Plaisir Swiss topo. Scramble down chossy ledges from the summit as per the topo to a single ring bolt and from here there are 5x50m abseils on double bolt abseil stations to get you onto the snow below. From there it’s an easy 40mins-1hr to the Ginetti Hut. We continued walking down to the valley the same day and found a decent auberge for 25euro pppn in St Martino just up the street from Bar Monica that was open until late to new arrivals. All in all a great mountain journey.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 21 Sep -
Hidden 4 Sep AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 4 Sep AltLd O/S Moved together to start and finished, alternated leads in between. I led the Risch Slab, C led the Difficult slab. The topo was pretty useless so we just followed our noses/pegs/people in front, which mostly worked OK. A combination of an early route finding error, a delay by a team in front, and our general tiredness/ineptitude made for slow going, but the weather was perfect so there was no rush. Descended to the Ginetti Hut, started and finished by torchlight, hut-to-hut time was around 16 hours. Totally brilliant in every way!
with Lemming
Moved together to start and finished, alternated leads in between. I led the Risch Slab, C led the Difficult slab. The topo was pretty useless so we just followed our noses/pegs/people in front, which mostly worked OK. A combination of an early route finding error, a delay by a team in front, and our general tiredness/ineptitude made for slow going, but the weather was perfect so there was no rush. Descended to the Ginetti Hut, started and finished by torchlight, hut-to-hut time was around 16 hours. Totally brilliant in every way!
with Lemming
wilkinscl 28 Aug AltLd O/S Shelley lead the first block of 12 pitches and I the second. mostly moved together. Missed the crux pitch following a party. Descent down the south side also got scenic following another wandering party.
with morpcat
Shelley lead the first block of 12 pitches and I the second. mostly moved together. Missed the crux pitch following a party. Descent down the south side also got scenic following another wandering party.
with morpcat
morpcat 27 Aug AltLd O/S Believe it or not the "No!" sections marked in the topo (both ascent and descent on south side) are not sarcasm but advice best followed. Despite our best efforts to subvert these recommendations, an amazing day out with seemingly never-ending climbing and fantastic exposure.
Believe it or not the "No!" sections marked in the topo (both ascent and descent on south side) are not sarcasm but advice best followed. Despite our best efforts to subvert these recommendations, an amazing day out with seemingly never-ending climbing and fantastic exposure.
Hidden 17 Aug AltLd
mrbird 14 Aug AltLd O/S
James Milton 14 Aug AltLd O/S Climbed in 3.30hrs, simuled the whole way. Start of an epic day
with GGD
Climbed in 3.30hrs, simuled the whole way. Start of an epic day
with GGD
Hidden 14 Aug AltLd
Gemmazrobo 14 Aug AltLd O/S No boots or crampons necessary for route or Italian descent. New Approach to hut was ~3hrs with small bags. Illogical route up and route mountain through many stream gulleys, you ascend 300m above the hut then traverse n drop down. Hut breakfast is at 4am if you wanna skip crowds-left just after 3. Maybe 10 other teams behind us that day. 2hrs from Sasch to wherever beyond the start we joined the ridge. First couple pitches still in trainers. Topped about 8am. 2hrs to descend Italian with single 60m and downclimbing. A couple abseils. Was fairly obvious following nose and red paint. If route is your limit grade twins for longer abseils might be preferred. Short snow patch glissade. 45mins to Ginetti hut. Obligatory coffee. 2hrs to Val Masino (taxi can pick up here) then another 45mins to San Martino. Mix of hitch and public transport back to Bondo. There’s a bus from here at 5pm to a train station where you can get train Chiavenna. From there regular bus from directly outside station to Promontogno (9cf). Could walk back over pass to Sasch and down but path isn’t so pleasant whereas Italian is much nicer, so is the gelato.
with mrbird
No boots or crampons necessary for route or Italian descent. New Approach to hut was ~3hrs with small bags. Illogical route up and route mountain through many stream gulleys, you ascend 300m above the hut then traverse n drop down. Hut breakfast is at 4am if you wanna skip crowds-left just after 3. Maybe 10 other teams behind us that day. 2hrs from Sasch to wherever beyond the start we joined the ridge. First couple pitches still in trainers. Topped about 8am. 2hrs to descend Italian with single 60m and downclimbing. A couple abseils. Was fairly obvious following nose and red paint. If route is your limit grade twins for longer abseils might be preferred. Short snow patch glissade. 45mins to Ginetti hut. Obligatory coffee. 2hrs to Val Masino (taxi can pick up here) then another 45mins to San Martino. Mix of hitch and public transport back to Bondo. There’s a bus from here at 5pm to a train station where you can get train Chiavenna. From there regular bus from directly outside station to Promontogno (9cf). Could walk back over pass to Sasch and down but path isn’t so pleasant whereas Italian is much nicer, so is the gelato.
with mrbird
Pete Rigby 9 Aug -
Hidden 9 Aug AltLd
CRead 1 Aug Solo Descent. ~4h
with Holly
Descent. ~4h
with Holly
K Mckay 22 Jul AltLd O/S 2 hours to base of ridge, 6 hours to summit and a f***ing long time abing back down the ridge. Staggered back to Sasc Fura hut at 1:30am (just descend into Italy)! Great test of endurance but buggered up our plans for the Cassin. Thought we'd do the North Ridge first to learn the descent. Not a good idea.
with Paul Gibbison
2 hours to base of ridge, 6 hours to summit and a f***ing long time abing back down the ridge. Staggered back to Sasc Fura hut at 1:30am (just descend into Italy)! Great test of endurance but buggered up our plans for the Cassin. Thought we'd do the North Ridge first to learn the descent. Not a good idea.
with Paul Gibbison
Rob84 22 Jul AltLd Great route - easy but fantastic quality rock. Easy to move together and string multiple pitches together for good chunks of the route. The new approach since the rockfall from the Cengalo is not to be underestimated. It’s now a solid 5hrs from a car park a few hundred metres above Bondo, involving a fairly grim, ant infested and circuitous mission all over the mountain to get to the Sasc Fura hut. This takes you above the hut towards the Passo di Trubanesca and then back down to the hut before heading back up once again to the base of the N Ridge. Because you’re now starting basically from valley level in Switzerland with a long approach, it makes sense than before to descend to the Italian side (rather than descend the N Ridge) and catch public transport (easy enough and around 18euro) back round to Bondo. There is a new and excellent bolted abseil line on the Italian side which is a bit different to the Plaisir Swiss topo. Scramble down chossy ledges from the summit as per the topo to a single ring bolt and from here there are 5x50m abseils on double bolt abseil stations to get you onto the snow below. From there it’s an easy 40mins-1hr to the Ginetti Hut. We continued walking down to the valley the same day and found a decent auberge for 25euro pppn in St Martino just up the street from Bar Monica that was open until late to new arrivals. All in all a great mountain journey.
with Lucy
Great route - easy but fantastic quality rock. Easy to move together and string multiple pitches together for good chunks of the route. The new approach since the rockfall from the Cengalo is not to be underestimated. It’s now a solid 5hrs from a car park a few hundred metres above Bondo, involving a fairly grim, ant infested and circuitous mission all over the mountain to get to the Sasc Fura hut. This takes you above the hut towards the Passo di Trubanesca and then back down to the hut before heading back up once again to the base of the N Ridge. Because you’re now starting basically from valley level in Switzerland with a long approach, it makes sense than before to descend to the Italian side (rather than descend the N Ridge) and catch public transport (easy enough and around 18euro) back round to Bondo. There is a new and excellent bolted abseil line on the Italian side which is a bit different to the Plaisir Swiss topo. Scramble down chossy ledges from the summit as per the topo to a single ring bolt and from here there are 5x50m abseils on double bolt abseil stations to get you onto the snow below. From there it’s an easy 40mins-1hr to the Ginetti Hut. We continued walking down to the valley the same day and found a decent auberge for 25euro pppn in St Martino just up the street from Bar Monica that was open until late to new arrivals. All in all a great mountain journey.
with Lucy
tbm 21 Jul AltLd O/S
with Tom
with Tom
Tom Blake 12 Jul AltLd O/S Don't know what all this "don't abseil the North Ridge" fuss is all about. We were back in the bivvy by 6. AM, that is...
with khalidq
Don't know what all this "don't abseil the North Ridge" fuss is all about. We were back in the bivvy by 6. AM, that is...
with khalidq
khalidq 12 Jul AltLd O/S We abseiled. It took a long time. I'd like a rock for the descent too please.
We abseiled. It took a long time. I'd like a rock for the descent too please.
Paul Sagar 10 Jul AltLd O/S Fantastic. Left Sasc Furä hut at 4am, crossed two ice fields (crampons essential!) and were climbing the route proper by 6.30am. Summit at 1.30pm. A truly amazing climb in some of the most spectacular scenery imaginable. After the crux about half way every single pitch is amazing - including the final ridge that just goes on and on and on! Think my favourite pitch had to be the knife edge “4a” ridge before the polished slab - can you get more exposure than that?! Simulclimbed most of it, belaying at a couple of trickier looking spots. Descent to the Italian side no joke, and we mistakenly trended right instead of left - few more abseils and a fair bit of snow to plod through down to the Gianetti Hut. Massive day out, easily in my top 3 climbs to date.
Fantastic. Left Sasc Furä hut at 4am, crossed two ice fields (crampons essential!) and were climbing the route proper by 6.30am. Summit at 1.30pm. A truly amazing climb in some of the most spectacular scenery imaginable. After the crux about half way every single pitch is amazing - including the final ridge that just goes on and on and on! Think my favourite pitch had to be the knife edge “4a” ridge before the polished slab - can you get more exposure than that?! Simulclimbed most of it, belaying at a couple of trickier looking spots. Descent to the Italian side no joke, and we mistakenly trended right instead of left - few more abseils and a fair bit of snow to plod through down to the Gianetti Hut. Massive day out, easily in my top 3 climbs to date.
Hidden 10 Jul AltLd
carr0t 29 Aug, 2018 -
mark-abz 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with carr0t
with carr0t
alexcollins123 23 Aug, 2017 AltLd dnf Should have started even earlier. Needed to be slicker and quicker!
Should have started even earlier. Needed to be slicker and quicker!
Retro Rowan 23 Aug, 2017 AltLd dnf
Tom Last 12 Aug, 2017 AltLd Last day of a complete washout alpine trip and the 1st day of okay weather. Despite this the upper half the the route was snowed up so we bailed. Nice to climb on such a great mountain.
Last day of a complete washout alpine trip and the 1st day of okay weather. Despite this the upper half the the route was snowed up so we bailed. Nice to climb on such a great mountain.
Hidden 12 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Fiona_H 29 Jul, 2017 2nd
with Owen
with Owen
Hidden 29 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw 26 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with jkfb, wi11
with jkfb, wi11
wi11 26 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Rory Shaw, Jo Boyd
with Rory Shaw, Jo Boyd
Hidden 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 22 Jul, 2017 2nd
justaddpowder 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd Wet start and low cloud until mid morn. rock dried as we climbed. Amazing climb. Base of climb 0730, top 1745 3hrs down to hut.
with Chris Holt, Rob Gillman, Adam Leveridge
Wet start and low cloud until mid morn. rock dried as we climbed. Amazing climb. Base of climb 0730, top 1745 3hrs down to hut.
with Chris Holt, Rob Gillman, Adam Leveridge
Hidden 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 20 Jul, 2017 -
Andrew Nelson ??, 2017 -
with paul Chiddle
with paul Chiddle
Hidden ??, 2017 Lead
Hidden 4 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Daniela Balslev 3 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with jenpen
with jenpen
Rob Rocket 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Scooter Young 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd
JoeFranklin 8 Aug, 2016 2nd β
mattfarr 8 Aug, 2016 Lead
Colin Scotchford 4 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 29 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
peterhubbard 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd Great adventure! Our attempt at the climb in 2014 was thwarted by poor weather. It nearly went the same way this time but luckily the snow (!) melted enough to give us a shot. It was very windy and cold but bright sun all day. Every pitch is immaculate granite but the "white slab" pitch was sensational. Took us 11 hours on the route. Left Sasc Furä hut at 4am and had a beer in hand at the Giannetti at 10pm.
Great adventure! Our attempt at the climb in 2014 was thwarted by poor weather. It nearly went the same way this time but luckily the snow (!) melted enough to give us a shot. It was very windy and cold but bright sun all day. Every pitch is immaculate granite but the "white slab" pitch was sensational. Took us 11 hours on the route. Left Sasc Furä hut at 4am and had a beer in hand at the Giannetti at 10pm.
charles-green ??, 2016 AltLd O/S
kingjam 30 Aug, 2015 AltLd Awesome climb very long , went down to giannetti after realising we would have to reverse all the pitches of the summit ridge to get to abseil rings . Lots of traffic but worth it .
Awesome climb very long , went down to giannetti after realising we would have to reverse all the pitches of the summit ridge to get to abseil rings . Lots of traffic but worth it .
RobScarisbrick 30 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S 10hrs in vapour v's 1size to small, bad idea! Busy day on the ridge a bun fight at the first pitch saw us shuffled back a few parties, nevertheless we moved well had awesome weather the whole day and arrived at the Gianetti in time for pasta and beer. We changed from the original plan to descend the north ridge which would have required retracing the last half dozen pitches just to get back to the start of the abs.
with kingjam
10hrs in vapour v's 1size to small, bad idea! Busy day on the ridge a bun fight at the first pitch saw us shuffled back a few parties, nevertheless we moved well had awesome weather the whole day and arrived at the Gianetti in time for pasta and beer. We changed from the original plan to descend the north ridge which would have required retracing the last half dozen pitches just to get back to the start of the abs.
with kingjam
robgixer 26 Aug, 2015 Lead
Little AndyH 26 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Aug, 2015 -
chapmand 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Left the sasc fura at 04:10. Started climbing at 06:40, topped out at 10am. 3.5hrs on route. Moved together all the way. Probably 12-15 teams behind us! Walked down to Gianetti hut for pasta and coffee lunch then walked down to Bagni del Masino for 16:00.
Left the sasc fura at 04:10. Started climbing at 06:40, topped out at 10am. 3.5hrs on route. Moved together all the way. Probably 12-15 teams behind us! Walked down to Gianetti hut for pasta and coffee lunch then walked down to Bagni del Masino for 16:00.
Hidden 31 Jul, 2015 -
bidean 31 Jul, 2015 -
aliem 28 Jul, 2015 -
Stefan Jacobsen 17 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Niels Riegels
with Niels Riegels
krispy_fish2000 14 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Richard Goodey ?Jul, 2015 -
Hidden 8 Aug, 2014 2nd dnf
Rob84 8 Aug, 2014 Lead dnf Got about a third of the way up before a storm rolled in and we had to bail. Great climbing up to there and pretty straightforward on the whole - easy slab climbing with regular ring bolts to clip for runners while moving together. The snow patches were just about passable in trainers, without crampons or axe but an axe between two to chop steps might have been a bit more pleasant. Will definitely be back for this one and the Cassin.
with mel_1
Got about a third of the way up before a storm rolled in and we had to bail. Great climbing up to there and pretty straightforward on the whole - easy slab climbing with regular ring bolts to clip for runners while moving together. The snow patches were just about passable in trainers, without crampons or axe but an axe between two to chop steps might have been a bit more pleasant. Will definitely be back for this one and the Cassin.
with mel_1
davkeo 6 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S First alpine route. Loved it.
First alpine route. Loved it.
Hidden 6 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Little AndyH 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Jodgson 4 Aug, 2014 AltLd Bivied just below the first snow field, climbed the route in 5 hr 15 minutes, descended the Italian side and hitched all the way back round to Bondo in one awesome day. First big alpine route, well pleased!
Bivied just below the first snow field, climbed the route in 5 hr 15 minutes, descended the Italian side and hitched all the way back round to Bondo in one awesome day. First big alpine route, well pleased!
Sam Marks 4 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Bloody Brilliant. First proper alpine climb. Took just over 5 hours, descended down the Italian side and hitch hiked all the way round to Bondo in the same day.
with Jack Hodgson
Bloody Brilliant. First proper alpine climb. Took just over 5 hours, descended down the Italian side and hitch hiked all the way round to Bondo in the same day.
with Jack Hodgson
JessWilliams 4 Aug, 2014 AltLd
with Dad
with Dad
cliffy 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Julian Prieto 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with cliffy
with cliffy
gordon_lamb 31 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
Freshprintce 17 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
maria85 5 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S We were planning on descending the ridge but decided on ascent that it would be too much faffing... dropped down to the Gianetti hut instead and walked back the next day. I do not recommend that walk, horrible!! Loose choss on sloping ledges. If I'm up there again, staying in the bivi hut on the summit and descending the ridge the following day would be a much better option. Ridge was fantastic though! Moved together for all of it, though rope drag shortened a few sections significantly. Don't think it was much faster than pitching it efficiently, but possibly more fun :)
with Jules
We were planning on descending the ridge but decided on ascent that it would be too much faffing... dropped down to the Gianetti hut instead and walked back the next day. I do not recommend that walk, horrible!! Loose choss on sloping ledges. If I'm up there again, staying in the bivi hut on the summit and descending the ridge the following day would be a much better option. Ridge was fantastic though! Moved together for all of it, though rope drag shortened a few sections significantly. Don't think it was much faster than pitching it efficiently, but possibly more fun :)
with Jules
Uisdean hawthorn 1 Sep, 2013 -
Kirill 21 Aug, 2013 AltLd I was a bit too tired to appreciate the views from the top.
I was a bit too tired to appreciate the views from the top.
CurlyStevo ?Aug, 2013 AltLd Up the north ridge (7 ish hours) and down the same side (6 ish hours). For descent mixture of down climbing and abseiling to the top of Another Day in Paradise, you can't simply ab down the north ridge on brass ring bolts, the shape of the ridge doesn't allow this and I think some of the ring bolts are more than 50 metres apart and not in the logical place for repeated abseiling, despite what the Chris Mellor guide says). Then 14 abseils down Another Day In Paradise which I guess was quite risky given we can't climb F6c! However we did have another party behind and in front of us that could! A long tiring but very satisfying day with very good weather and views. We started scrambling up to the start from our bivi at dawn and came back to the same spot at dusk and walked back out getting to the campsite at around midnight, having got up at 5 am! We only moved together for the first 2 pitches, and around 4 higher up as well as for most of the scrambling to the summit after the last pitch.
with Kirill
Up the north ridge (7 ish hours) and down the same side (6 ish hours). For descent mixture of down climbing and abseiling to the top of Another Day in Paradise, you can't simply ab down the north ridge on brass ring bolts, the shape of the ridge doesn't allow this and I think some of the ring bolts are more than 50 metres apart and not in the logical place for repeated abseiling, despite what the Chris Mellor guide says). Then 14 abseils down Another Day In Paradise which I guess was quite risky given we can't climb F6c! However we did have another party behind and in front of us that could! A long tiring but very satisfying day with very good weather and views. We started scrambling up to the start from our bivi at dawn and came back to the same spot at dusk and walked back out getting to the campsite at around midnight, having got up at 5 am! We only moved together for the first 2 pitches, and around 4 higher up as well as for most of the scrambling to the summit after the last pitch.
with Kirill
matthomas79 30 Jul, 2013 - We decided to climb as much as we could setting a limited of reaching as high as possible by 1pm. By 2:18pm we reached the exit area for another day in paradise, We weren't quite sure where we were, thinking we were at the top of the technical climbing we decided to ab back down as my partner wanted to be back in Bondo that night. Not seeing this as dnf but not perhaps the start of something new in my climbing. Still amazing climbing up to this point nothing difficult just bold.
with Paul Lee
We decided to climb as much as we could setting a limited of reaching as high as possible by 1pm. By 2:18pm we reached the exit area for another day in paradise, We weren't quite sure where we were, thinking we were at the top of the technical climbing we decided to ab back down as my partner wanted to be back in Bondo that night. Not seeing this as dnf but not perhaps the start of something new in my climbing. Still amazing climbing up to this point nothing difficult just bold.
with Paul Lee
Hidden 26 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
AJH 18 Jul, 2013 - Abseil retreat around halfway up after rain and hail made further progress problematic to say the least. Still lots of snow on the approach - crampons and ice axe necessary
with Keith
Abseil retreat around halfway up after rain and hail made further progress problematic to say the least. Still lots of snow on the approach - crampons and ice axe necessary
with Keith
Tdavy01 ?Jul, 2013 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 -
wherewelf ?Jul, 2013 -
alasdair19 ??, 2013 - in descent
in descent
nking100 ??, 2013 -
Hidden 14 Sep, 2012 AltLd
mdryburgh 6 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S Awesome Climb. 4 and a bit hour ascent. Really enjoyed it!!
with James Smith
Awesome Climb. 4 and a bit hour ascent. Really enjoyed it!!
with James Smith
Clevelandclimber 6 Sep, 2012 - 2 relative novices from oxford UOTC, 10 hrs up and 3 down to Italy. Left hut at 0720, got onto glacier as sun went down!
2 relative novices from oxford UOTC, 10 hrs up and 3 down to Italy. Left hut at 0720, got onto glacier as sun went down!
fishjh2 25 Aug, 2012 2nd
Hidden 17 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 17 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S very easy pleasant climbing with stunning views. loooong descent back down if you drop your belay plate!
with remus
very easy pleasant climbing with stunning views. loooong descent back down if you drop your belay plate!
with remus
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
Aaron Lines ?Aug, 2012 AltLd
with stu
with stu
Hidden 30 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Poco Loco 18 Jul, 2012 AltLd Just excellent, start to finish. Perfect conditions. Less fun getting to the Gianetti hut. A big rock fall just after we got down clipped a party behind us.
Just excellent, start to finish. Perfect conditions. Less fun getting to the Gianetti hut. A big rock fall just after we got down clipped a party behind us.
BALD EAGLE 18 Jul, 2012 AltLd A truly superlative climb and the Pom and I were truly blessed with perfect conditions. Take double ropes for the descent into Italy to the Gianetti Hut, as the ab rings are well spaced, and be careful of much loose rock...
with James Pomeroy
A truly superlative climb and the Pom and I were truly blessed with perfect conditions. Take double ropes for the descent into Italy to the Gianetti Hut, as the ab rings are well spaced, and be careful of much loose rock...
with James Pomeroy
Hidden 16 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
adamwesthead 17 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S 7 hours to summit. Came down on the Italian side which involved down scrambling and 4 abseils
with zebster
7 hours to summit. Came down on the Italian side which involved down scrambling and 4 abseils
with zebster
zebster 17 Sep, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 13 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Mihkel 13 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S A good route. Slow ascent in a three but great climbing. 21hr day but not overly tiring - 7 hrs in ascent then 8 hrs of abseiling (!), followed by a 3-4 hr walk back to van. Note to self: In future walk off to Italy or ab down Another Day in Paradise!
with Alys Rook, dave657
A good route. Slow ascent in a three but great climbing. 21hr day but not overly tiring - 7 hrs in ascent then 8 hrs of abseiling (!), followed by a 3-4 hr walk back to van. Note to self: In future walk off to Italy or ab down Another Day in Paradise!
with Alys Rook, dave657
al99 12 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
martinazando 12 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with al99
with al99
pete1993 10 Aug, 2011 AltLd
zach.stone 10 Aug, 2011 AltLd Cold Cold Cold. And long.
Cold Cold Cold. And long.
bigbobbyking 10 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Cold wind kept up all day making it a bit tiring. Everything you'd expect from a classic alpine route: a bit longer than you'd expected, big queues and loose rock :-) Descented to Gianetti - glad didn't go down the ridge!
Cold wind kept up all day making it a bit tiring. Everything you'd expect from a classic alpine route: a bit longer than you'd expected, big queues and loose rock :-) Descented to Gianetti - glad didn't go down the ridge!
benclimbing ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Phil Emerson ?Aug, 2011 AltLd Awesome. Originally went for the Casin route, but massive snow bank remained on the ledge out to it which we couldn't get over . Up North Ridge instead. Only blot was on the very last abseil down, my rope got lodged in the bergschrund which wouldn't release despite my best efforts... Had to cut about 20 m of it off.
with Graham McGrath
Awesome. Originally went for the Casin route, but massive snow bank remained on the ledge out to it which we couldn't get over . Up North Ridge instead. Only blot was on the very last abseil down, my rope got lodged in the bergschrund which wouldn't release despite my best efforts... Had to cut about 20 m of it off.
with Graham McGrath
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Cham32 ?Aug, 2011 - route was super dry in late August - we were 1st out of the hut at about 4.30 - changed into rock boots at the little col and then 3hrs 20 to the summit - only pitched the short crux traverse. rapped down and passed several very slow parties all stuck on the grade 4 slabs. Feet were like hambergers at the bottom. Nice beer in the hut, back at the car by 5.15 and just in time for a pizza from the Stone Bar back in Argentiere before 10.
route was super dry in late August - we were 1st out of the hut at about 4.30 - changed into rock boots at the little col and then 3hrs 20 to the summit - only pitched the short crux traverse. rapped down and passed several very slow parties all stuck on the grade 4 slabs. Feet were like hambergers at the bottom. Nice beer in the hut, back at the car by 5.15 and just in time for a pizza from the Stone Bar back in Argentiere before 10.
libby.southgate 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd Tried to do this route earlier in the trip but we were caught in a thunderstorm during the walk in the night before. After getting soaked and sleeping in very wet tents we woke up to bad weather so had to head down the mountain without trying the route. On second attempt we Bivviied the night before the climb and then got about 3/4 up before the weather closed in. Having no wish to be caught in a second storm on the Badille we started descent at 11am via abseil. The descent took 4+ hours not including the 3 or 4 hour walk down the mountain.
Tried to do this route earlier in the trip but we were caught in a thunderstorm during the walk in the night before. After getting soaked and sleeping in very wet tents we woke up to bad weather so had to head down the mountain without trying the route. On second attempt we Bivviied the night before the climb and then got about 3/4 up before the weather closed in. Having no wish to be caught in a second storm on the Badille we started descent at 11am via abseil. The descent took 4+ hours not including the 3 or 4 hour walk down the mountain.
Hidden 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
GraMc 11 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S had been hoping to do the cassin but conditions didnt allow, moved together, then abbed the ridge, not nearly as bad as some make out, abbing on one rope helps stop faff, 10 hours up and down.
with phil emerson
had been hoping to do the cassin but conditions didnt allow, moved together, then abbed the ridge, not nearly as bad as some make out, abbing on one rope helps stop faff, 10 hours up and down.
with phil emerson
jonnie3430 11 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Marie
with Marie
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2011 AltLd rpt
Pero 4 Sep, 2010 Lead It's easy to underestimate the climbing on this route. Most pitches seemed to have a hard move or two, so we pitched the whole thing. 12 hours from col to summit (for competent VS climbers). Bivied on way down. Longest and best thing I've ever led for sure.
It's easy to underestimate the climbing on this route. Most pitches seemed to have a hard move or two, so we pitched the whole thing. 12 hours from col to summit (for competent VS climbers). Bivied on way down. Longest and best thing I've ever led for sure.
thecurlyone 26 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Gary Wong
with Gary Wong
garywong 26 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Fantastic, but took about 10 hours, finishing about 5pm. Not enough time for Swiss descent, so attempted to get to Rif. Gianetti. Got too dark so had to bivvy.
Fantastic, but took about 10 hours, finishing about 5pm. Not enough time for Swiss descent, so attempted to get to Rif. Gianetti. Got too dark so had to bivvy.
Hidden 23 Aug, 2010 -
wildrover220 21 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S An absolutely phenomenal route that keeps going and going. Seriously underestimated how long it would take and ended up taking 11hours to the summit. Off route and benighted on descent and slept on a ledge in the original descent gulley.
An absolutely phenomenal route that keeps going and going. Seriously underestimated how long it would take and ended up taking 11hours to the summit. Off route and benighted on descent and slept on a ledge in the original descent gulley.
Hidden 4 Aug, 2010 AltLd dnf
Matt Bennett 4 Aug, 2010 AltLd dnf Moved quickly together in approach shoes, lewis followed an alluring ledge littered with pegs, pulled some loose flakes off and took and ankle damaging fall (3/4 up route). Lowered lewis + abbed back down ridge.
with Lewis Grey
Moved quickly together in approach shoes, lewis followed an alluring ledge littered with pegs, pulled some loose flakes off and took and ankle damaging fall (3/4 up route). Lowered lewis + abbed back down ridge.
with Lewis Grey
Pete Nugent 4 Aug, 2010 - Relatively slow start compared to others as we simul climbed we soon caught up with the teams ahead. Weather was good so we just followed the others but his slowed ascent (summit about 16.30 - Gianetti abt 21.00. Staretd raining about midnight and downpur continued all the following day (Thurs)
with John Venier
Relatively slow start compared to others as we simul climbed we soon caught up with the teams ahead. Weather was good so we just followed the others but his slowed ascent (summit about 16.30 - Gianetti abt 21.00. Staretd raining about midnight and downpur continued all the following day (Thurs)
with John Venier
Hidden 1 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
alidixon ??, 2010 -
J1PEF ?Aug, 2009 AltLd classic long day wouldn't do abs again!!
classic long day wouldn't do abs again!!
innes ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ruth
with Ruth
davepc ?Aug, 2009 AltLd
with Mike
with Mike
Elsier 26 Jul, 2009 AltLd My favourite climbing experience so far, wow what an amazing experience! We bivied on the ledge at the base of the route, long tiring day out (we walked off the Italian side the same day- all the huts were full) but so worth it!
with Stuart
My favourite climbing experience so far, wow what an amazing experience! We bivied on the ledge at the base of the route, long tiring day out (we walked off the Italian side the same day- all the huts were full) but so worth it!
with Stuart
Karl Wooffindin 17 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with Pete Whittaker
with Pete Whittaker
Hidden 17 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Pythonist 10 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Lack of crampons made walking v. difficult - too much snow hanging around late in the season! Start from Sasc Fura at 4:30, base of ridge 7:30, summit 11, abseil down (don't do it...) and back for beers at the hut for 5pm. Chris led whole thing, I just kept up!
with Chris Jennions
Lack of crampons made walking v. difficult - too much snow hanging around late in the season! Start from Sasc Fura at 4:30, base of ridge 7:30, summit 11, abseil down (don't do it...) and back for beers at the hut for 5pm. Chris led whole thing, I just kept up!
with Chris Jennions
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 2nd
liamoloughlin ?Sep, 2008 Lead 4hrs from Col to summit. 10hrs from summit to Bondo. Will walk off the Italian side next time.
4hrs from Col to summit. 10hrs from summit to Bondo. Will walk off the Italian side next time.
pauldrew 1 Aug, 2008 AltLd
with Lun Roberts, pete johnson
with Lun Roberts, pete johnson
pete johnson 1 Aug, 2008 -
with pauldrew, Lun
with pauldrew, Lun
davebrox ?Aug, 2008 Lead β
tumbling wizard ?Aug, 2008 AltLd
ajtay 31 Jul, 2008 AltLd 6 hours for the route. 8 hours for the abseil down. It seems only the English ab down the North Ridge! We had big problems with ropes snagging and tangling on way down - better to lower the first person down so the rope doesn't tangle. Bivvied on the ridge before returning to Sasc Fura following morning. Superb route, brilliant exposure. Very Busy!
with Pete Smith
6 hours for the route. 8 hours for the abseil down. It seems only the English ab down the North Ridge! We had big problems with ropes snagging and tangling on way down - better to lower the first person down so the rope doesn't tangle. Bivvied on the ridge before returning to Sasc Fura following morning. Superb route, brilliant exposure. Very Busy!
with Pete Smith
Byronius Maximus 29 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S Descended normal route in to Italy and walked back the next day. Next year; Cassin!
Descended normal route in to Italy and walked back the next day. Next year; Cassin!
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 29 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S 4:15 for the route, twice as long to get back down and then another trek back to the car = 15 hours. It was a quality day though!
4:15 for the route, twice as long to get back down and then another trek back to the car = 15 hours. It was a quality day though!
Guy Wilson ?Jul, 2008 -
with Byron Buck
with Byron Buck
barrington1978 ?Jul, 2008 -
Hera ?Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
lx 8 Sep, 2007 AltLd 7hrs 15mins to summit. Moved together all the way. Descended down route. Had to bivy on mountain on descent cos got dark and couldn't find ab stations. 29hrs total. 1st alpine route!
with andy barker
7hrs 15mins to summit. Moved together all the way. Descended down route. Had to bivy on mountain on descent cos got dark and couldn't find ab stations. 29hrs total. 1st alpine route!
with andy barker
Andrew Barker ?Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S Took longer than expected. Nearly got hit by a TV-sized block that Ben's dad sent down from above on the ascent. Got most of the way back down before an unplanned bivvy. Ben and his dad were quicker and got off the ridge. Did the remaining few abseils the next morning. Amused to find out that Ben and his dad couldn't find the hut in the dark and ended up sleeping in the trees within a very short distance of it!
with Phil Applegate, Ken Applegate, lx, Curly Ben Harding
Took longer than expected. Nearly got hit by a TV-sized block that Ben's dad sent down from above on the ascent. Got most of the way back down before an unplanned bivvy. Ben and his dad were quicker and got off the ridge. Did the remaining few abseils the next morning. Amused to find out that Ben and his dad couldn't find the hut in the dark and ended up sleeping in the trees within a very short distance of it!
with Phil Applegate, Ken Applegate, lx, Curly Ben Harding
Ken Applegate ?Sep, 2007 Lead
with Phil Applegate
with Phil Applegate
Hidden ?Aug, 2007 -
Adam Booth 8 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S Amazing, go down off the other side, NOT back down the ridge!!
Amazing, go down off the other side, NOT back down the ridge!!
Ed Booth 8 Jul, 2007 AltLd
9fingerjon ?Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S Moved together, descended South side and walked back round to Bondo in 1 V long day!
with James H
Moved together, descended South side and walked back round to Bondo in 1 V long day!
with James H
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ??, 2007 -
with Neil Johnson
with Neil Johnson
tjekel ??, 2007 -
maresia 9 Aug, 2006 2nd O/S Moving together all the way up only to get beasted by a storm just as we started descending. Lightning is not our friend but helicopters are!
Moving together all the way up only to get beasted by a storm just as we started descending. Lightning is not our friend but helicopters are!
Dale ?Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S My first ever alpine route. Climbed roped together, took bout 10 hours to the top climbing roped together. What an experience one I will never forget. At the top the exposer of 1000meteres or so went write to my head I could do two things freeze or just continue to laugh, so I laughed all the way across the top ridge. At the summit every1 took the piss when I pulled out a jar of olives and a kinife which I carried with me to the top. We were going to abb back down but that was so not going to happen, so we decided to head to the italian hut. We got lost on the one abb and went down a scary gully, at bottom we read in guide book do not go down the death gully o well to late. We then got to the hut but had no passports to get back into switzaland the next day. So I drank my way threw italy and dave went to get the car ashe had his passport was quite drunk by this point.
My first ever alpine route. Climbed roped together, took bout 10 hours to the top climbing roped together. What an experience one I will never forget. At the top the exposer of 1000meteres or so went write to my head I could do two things freeze or just continue to laugh, so I laughed all the way across the top ridge. At the summit every1 took the piss when I pulled out a jar of olives and a kinife which I carried with me to the top. We were going to abb back down but that was so not going to happen, so we decided to head to the italian hut. We got lost on the one abb and went down a scary gully, at bottom we read in guide book do not go down the death gully o well to late. We then got to the hut but had no passports to get back into switzaland the next day. So I drank my way threw italy and dave went to get the car ashe had his passport was quite drunk by this point.
Hidden 10 Jul, 2006 AltLd
Stone Muppet ??, 2006 -
Andy Clarke 10 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S Dale's first alpine route - quite an introduction! A proper classic: a superb line that grabs your attention from miles away and provides plenty of enjoyably exposed climbing. Abbing back down the ridge looked a right pain, so we changed our minds and descended into Italy. Passed the night after a grappa or two at the very pleasant Gianetti hut, then spent the next day drinking our way back to the campsite by foot, bus, train and car. All in all, an excellent adventure.
with Dale
Dale's first alpine route - quite an introduction! A proper classic: a superb line that grabs your attention from miles away and provides plenty of enjoyably exposed climbing. Abbing back down the ridge looked a right pain, so we changed our minds and descended into Italy. Passed the night after a grappa or two at the very pleasant Gianetti hut, then spent the next day drinking our way back to the campsite by foot, bus, train and car. All in all, an excellent adventure.
with Dale
andyinglis ?Aug, 2005 -
with neil adams
with neil adams
Hidden ?Aug, 2005 -
Neil Adams ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
tom.e ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S Moved together all the way up in 3:15
Moved together all the way up in 3:15
jamie ward 7 Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S
with simon fairman
with simon fairman
jsw1 29 Jul, 2002 AltLd O/S Stunning route, moved together on a lot of it but had to pitch some of it. The weather came in from the South though so we got to the summit in an almighty thunder storm. Hair standing on end under my helment and the static in the air was palpable. The original intent was to abseil down the route but due to the storm we headed for the Gianetti Hut, descending down the South Face normal route in appauling conditions. Heavy rain, hail stones, deafening thunder that was instantaneous with the lightning. A bit on the scary side at the time, but all the more fun for it looking back. The food at the Gianetti Hut was amazing. From when we got up at Sasc Fura to when we arrived at Gianetti was 16 hours in total, and epic day, now a treasured memory. The return over the Porcellizzo and Trubinasca Passes felt long and hard the day after, taking 9 hours to get back to the car near Bondo.
with Kezia Pugh
Stunning route, moved together on a lot of it but had to pitch some of it. The weather came in from the South though so we got to the summit in an almighty thunder storm. Hair standing on end under my helment and the static in the air was palpable. The original intent was to abseil down the route but due to the storm we headed for the Gianetti Hut, descending down the South Face normal route in appauling conditions. Heavy rain, hail stones, deafening thunder that was instantaneous with the lightning. A bit on the scary side at the time, but all the more fun for it looking back. The food at the Gianetti Hut was amazing. From when we got up at Sasc Fura to when we arrived at Gianetti was 16 hours in total, and epic day, now a treasured memory. The return over the Porcellizzo and Trubinasca Passes felt long and hard the day after, taking 9 hours to get back to the car near Bondo.
with Kezia Pugh
dan gibson ?Aug, 2001 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Dave ??, 2000 AltLd
nickdonohue ?Jul, 1999 AltLd alternating leads / moving together. descended same route by abseil - long and awkward. I would recommend much shorter descent to the south side, though this has a longer walk back
with Mike ?
alternating leads / moving together. descended same route by abseil - long and awkward. I would recommend much shorter descent to the south side, though this has a longer walk back
with Mike ?
IanGilbertJones 9 Aug, 1997 AltLd
with GeoffQ
with GeoffQ
Hidden ?Aug, 1997 AltLd
tompercy ?Jul, 1996 AltLd
with Amos Preminger
with Amos Preminger
Marti999 ??, 1996 AltLd
pauldrew ?Jul, 1995 AltLd dnf Too snowy near summit so retreated back down the ridge.
with Lisa Cox
Too snowy near summit so retreated back down the ridge.
with Lisa Cox
Hidden ??, 1995 AltLd
Guy ??, 1993 AltLd Simul climbed all but one pitch, then abbed the route taking twice as long as climbing it.
Simul climbed all but one pitch, then abbed the route taking twice as long as climbing it.
garywalker147 ?Aug, 1992 AltLd O/S Not sure of year. Camped on ledge just at start. First on route. Great day with perfect weather.
with Frank Steinmaier
Not sure of year. Camped on ledge just at start. First on route. Great day with perfect weather.
with Frank Steinmaier
babymoac 19 Jul, 1990 Lead
with Howard
with Howard
Richard Weller ?Jul, 1988 AltLd
with john sanders
with john sanders
KlaasW ??, 1982 -
RichardMc 26 Jul, 1979 AltLd
with Angel Vila
with Angel Vila
uphillnow ?Aug, 1978 AltLd Were heading for Cassin, but as we got up from bivy the rain came in. Opted for the N Ridge and did this, from about a third of way up in dry weather. Had some lightening on the summit so headed off at speed and down the same route. Mainly very easy climbing, odd bits pitched and majority moving together.
with Al Bennett
Were heading for Cassin, but as we got up from bivy the rain came in. Opted for the N Ridge and did this, from about a third of way up in dry weather. Had some lightening on the summit so headed off at speed and down the same route. Mainly very easy climbing, odd bits pitched and majority moving together.
with Al Bennett
Hidden ?Aug, 1977 AltLd
Hidden 7 Aug, 1975 AltLd
Steve Clegg 8 Jul, 1974 AltLd Had planned to do the North Face but it wasn’t in condition. Bivouac at the foot of the ridge so had to ab back down it to collect the gear. Chris and I wore kletterschuhe which rubbed my toes raw! The next route we did (Spigolo de Velo) I climbed in my Hawkins walking boots. Ian Heys said he wouldn’t have abbed for a gold block! From my diary: Up in 7 hours down in 8. Set off from bivvy at 5am. 17 and a half hour day. Superb day.
with Chris H, Pete B, Jeff L
Had planned to do the North Face but it wasn’t in condition. Bivouac at the foot of the ridge so had to ab back down it to collect the gear. Chris and I wore kletterschuhe which rubbed my toes raw! The next route we did (Spigolo de Velo) I climbed in my Hawkins walking boots. Ian Heys said he wouldn’t have abbed for a gold block! From my diary: Up in 7 hours down in 8. Set off from bivvy at 5am. 17 and a half hour day. Superb day.
with Chris H, Pete B, Jeff L
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Votes cast 26
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Style of Ascent
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