160m, 4 pitches.
Coire na Caime, Northern Pinnacles:
The steeper right-hand face of the ridge with the route Holy Ghost. Conditions were very icy. Start at the base of the ridge.
1. 50m Climb leftwards up a fault line (not the one which starts at the base of Trinity Gully Right-Hand, although it could be an option) before returning right to climb a shallow chimney rightwards on to the right face of the ridge.
2. 25m Climb a wide crack (on ice on this occasion) into a big fault. Go up this until it steepens, then move right and make an awkward pull up right on to a ledge overlooking Trinity Gully Right-Hand.
3. 50m Pull up on to an inset slab, then step right to a wide crack. Pull up right (crux) on to an icy slab with some turf and climb this and a groove above to reach the ridge crest. Now joining Holy Ghost, go up to belay.
4. 35m Finish up the crest.
The steeper right-hand face of the ridge with the route Holy Ghost. Conditions were very icy. Start at the base of the ridge.
1. 50m Climb leftwards up a fault line (not the one which starts at the base of Trinity Gully Right-Hand, although it could be an option) before returning right to climb a shallow chimney rightwards on to the right face of the ridge.
2. 25m Climb a wide crack (on ice on this occasion) into a big fault. Go up this until it steepens, then move right and make an awkward pull up right on to a ledge overlooking Trinity Gully Right-Hand.
3. 50m Pull up on to an inset slab, then step right to a wide crack. Pull up right (crux) on to an icy slab with some turf and climb this and a groove above to reach the ridge crest. Now joining Holy Ghost, go up to belay.
4. 35m Finish up the crest.
Andy Nisbet, Steve Perry. 13/Feb/2015.
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Route of Interest
Route II Direct
Grade: VI 6 ***
(Ben Nevis)