UKC

470m. The ridge labelled in Highland Scrambles North as Tower Ridge but including a lower continuation in the same line. It needs to be frozen but the upper part could be climbed alone at III,5. It may be possible to bypass the harder sections but as direct a line as was reasonable was chosen. Start at the base of the lower ridge, close to the gully on the right.
1. 100m Climb over short steps and an easier section, then more short steps to a steeper band.
2. 45m Climb this by a steep turfy fault leading to a terrace and the next tier.
3. 30m Climb a steep corner (crux) to step left on to a ledge. Traverse left, then go up left and back right to a ledge.
4. 50m Gain a terrace above and the next tier, climbed direct. Continue to another wall. Traverse left along a narrow ledge to regain the crest.
5. 75m Go along the crest to a smooth slabby section where the ridge bends right. Bypass this easily on the right, then return left to the crest and follow it to where the route up the rake joins.
6. 70m Starting right of the crest, then regaining it, take the best line up to a slabby crest leading up to the tower.
7. 100m The intention was to climb the tower but it looks very hard. Follow the crest to the tower, then traverse right under it and climb a turfy corner ending with a difficult pull out of a niche. Regain the crest and follow it to easy ground which leads to the North Ridge.

Andy Nisbet, Steve Perry. 04/Mar/2015.

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Route of Interest
The Second Icefall (Waterfall)

Grade: V 5 ***
(Foinaven - Ganu Mor)

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