UKC

40m. The best climb I’ve done in NZ’ – Roger from Sweden. Never too hard, seldom too easy, this classic simmers from start to finish – if you climb nothing else at Coalition Crag, climb this. A brittle start gives way to solid rock. Follow pocks to the overlap, then sensationally traverse L on the golden upper slab. Up the crack, then step R above the final overlap and up to the DBB under the roof and 2m L of the main corner. Take a few medium/large wires and CD’s to #2. An inferior variant start on shocking rock 2m L (7a) was bolted to provide an alternative when water seepage makes the normal start unclimbable.

http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunedin/otago-peninsula/doctors-point/coalition-crag

Steve Carr 1999.

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Route of Interest
Gorillas in the Schist

Grade: 18 ***
(Wanaka)

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