28m.

Rockfax Description
A short but perfectly formed route tucked away on the left side of the buttress.
1) 4c, 25m. Follow the small rightward-facing groove until it runs out. Karate-chop your way up the excellent jamming crack above.
2) 20m. Scramble up and right to join Sub Cneifion Rib on its second pitch or escape by scrambling left. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 26 Aug 2nd O/S
ewanthomson 10 Jun Lead O/S
with Tselane Mead
with Tselane Mead
Butty 24 Apr Lead
Russtygibbons 20 Apr Lead β My first proper jamming crack but had the benefit of some pre-placed gear from my mates bailed attempt
My first proper jamming crack but had the benefit of some pre-placed gear from my mates bailed attempt
Felix Ottey 20 Apr 2nd β Seems bloody stiff for VS 4c
Seems bloody stiff for VS 4c
Tradical 20 Apr 2nd O/S
with Andy Asquith
with Andy Asquith
chris cockbain 6 Apr 2nd O/S with bag
with bag
Lewis Johnstone 6 Apr 2nd O/S
with chris cockbain, Luke Doell
with chris cockbain, Luke Doell
bethanyleaver98 28 Mar 2nd
tomdawson4 28 Mar Lead O/S Scrambled up into Sub Cneifion Rib
Scrambled up into Sub Cneifion Rib
BC 27 Feb 2nd
gotama178 27 Feb Lead O/S
with BC
with BC
Paul Baxter 28 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt This time, a (new) silver #4 cam was jammed - but too well for us to get it out. Biblical rain/wind / thunder at the top.
This time, a (new) silver #4 cam was jammed - but too well for us to get it out. Biblical rain/wind / thunder at the top.
quarrtman1 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led the first pitch
with Louise
Led the first pitch
with Louise
Louvet 26 Jul, 2018 2nd Chris led!
Chris led!
Martin Bagshaw 1 Jul, 2018 Solo O/S Nice secure climbing, consolation for not doing suicide wall as Dan wanted to get going. Probably better that Hertford's crack, think this one is more sustained from what I recall.
Nice secure climbing, consolation for not doing suicide wall as Dan wanted to get going. Probably better that Hertford's crack, think this one is more sustained from what I recall.
George Killaspy 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
myrddinmuse 24 Jun, 2018 Solo rpt Beaut. Glove free and fine.
Beaut. Glove free and fine.
George Killaspy 24 Jun, 2018 Solo rpt I just had to go back and climb this without the gear breaking up the rhythm. Such a great crack.
with Harry, myrddinmuse
I just had to go back and climb this without the gear breaking up the rhythm. Such a great crack.
with Harry, myrddinmuse
althesin 17 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Damp day, didn't detract from utterly fantastic crack.
Damp day, didn't detract from utterly fantastic crack.
schristophersmith 17 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
myrddinmuse 13 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt Lovely stuff.
with gavinwr
Lovely stuff.
with gavinwr
myrddinmuse 13 Jun, 2018 Solo rpt Seriously fun in the howling wind. Getting to the point that I am near 100% confidence on a good sized hand crack! Didn't think this was much easier than Herford's crack to be honest.
Seriously fun in the howling wind. Getting to the point that I am near 100% confidence on a good sized hand crack! Didn't think this was much easier than Herford's crack to be honest.
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Just_Waltr 19 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Josh Butler
with Josh Butler
dan_waterston 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ruth
with Ruth
Hidden 21 Jun, 2017 Lead
Tim Francis 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Amazing hidden crack climb!
Amazing hidden crack climb!
danieljames123 4 Dec, 2016 2nd
Jim blackford 4 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S A lesson in jamming is needed. Friends would also have been nice
with Dan
A lesson in jamming is needed. Friends would also have been nice
with Dan
lucyvass 9 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S Mysterious crack that we stumbled upon while waiting for a party on another climb.
Mysterious crack that we stumbled upon while waiting for a party on another climb.
Nathan Chrismas 9 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S As seems to be the trend, peeked round the corner while queuing for the rib and spotted this line. Brilliant little route, crap at jamming so did the top section as a layback which felt committing and about 5a(?) when done like that. Lucy took over to join the final pitch of the rib. Great fun, spoiled only by returning to our packs to find that hungry ravens had eaten all of my jelly babies.
As seems to be the trend, peeked round the corner while queuing for the rib and spotted this line. Brilliant little route, crap at jamming so did the top section as a layback which felt committing and about 5a(?) when done like that. Lucy took over to join the final pitch of the rib. Great fun, spoiled only by returning to our packs to find that hungry ravens had eaten all of my jelly babies.
ErikWaskiewicz 5 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S
with Tom, emlynroberts
with Tom, emlynroberts
emlynroberts 5 Oct, 2016 Lead Nice line, good gear and nice climbing.
with Tom Brekke, ErikWaskiewicz
Nice line, good gear and nice climbing.
with Tom Brekke, ErikWaskiewicz
gillyml 22 Sep, 2016 2nd
with Mac, Billy Davies
with Mac, Billy Davies
Matadoors 11 Sep, 2016 Lead
Hidden 29 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Mark D 3 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
with Tom Green, Rosie Henstock
with Tom Green, Rosie Henstock
Hidden 3 Jul, 2016 Lead
Rosie Henstock 3 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S Similar to Herfords Crack but more of a skin shredder inside the crack!
Similar to Herfords Crack but more of a skin shredder inside the crack!
TGreen 3 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
myrddinmuse 22 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Awesome crack climb. Tore up my skin a bit, but 100% worth it.
Awesome crack climb. Tore up my skin a bit, but 100% worth it.
gwynjones 22 Jun, 2016 2nd
John Foster 10 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with Simon
with Simon
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 Solo
Dazluke2000 31 May, 2016 Lead
with Tommy OReilly
with Tommy OReilly
dkd 12 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
Hidden 26 May, 2015 -
ChrisGard 26 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with Chris Lucas
with Chris Lucas
Qureshi 21 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams 21 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S very nice, like an easier version of herfords crack and sharper!
with Qureshi
very nice, like an easier version of herfords crack and sharper!
with Qureshi
Hidden 10 Apr, 2015 AltLd
dapperdan 12 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Brilliant pitch even though it was abit wet in the crack. Did as alternative start the sub cniefion rib as the first pitch of that was busy. Rick struggled to second this.
Brilliant pitch even though it was abit wet in the crack. Did as alternative start the sub cniefion rib as the first pitch of that was busy. Rick struggled to second this.
Paul Baxter 27 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Lovely jamming. Gained a gold #3 cam which had been left mostly jammed.
Lovely jamming. Gained a gold #3 cam which had been left mostly jammed.
EeFu 27 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
apja84 ?Jun, 2014 Lead
with dominic arkley
with dominic arkley
Hidden 4 May, 2014 Lead
grakgrak 27 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Nice easy climb also seconded it in my approach shoes
with Richard hughes
Nice easy climb also seconded it in my approach shoes
with Richard hughes
Sarahcrowsley 16 Jul, 2013 Lead
robthered 30 Jun, 2013 Solo dnf Beautiful line that I couldn't resist. Slipped at crux move near the top, then backed off to change pants... I'll be back with a mate and a rope.
Beautiful line that I couldn't resist. Slipped at crux move near the top, then backed off to change pants... I'll be back with a mate and a rope.
Huw Mithan 23 Aug, 2012 2nd
with David Webster, Emma Johnson
with David Webster, Emma Johnson
ejohnson 23 Aug, 2012 2nd
Webster 23 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S brilliant!!! perfect line which is as good as it looks.
brilliant!!! perfect line which is as good as it looks.
Simon Cahill 22 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S What a great climb, very pleased we walked around to it after doing Sub Cneifion Arete, could easily have missed out. Careful it doesn't eat all your medium size gear No 2 - 3 cams to early or else you will run out further up, takes a couple of cheeky wires and hexes but not always so easy to place, or if your are good at jamming just go for it! Sorry it was less fun for Tim, but practice using an assisted hoist.
with tim000
What a great climb, very pleased we walked around to it after doing Sub Cneifion Arete, could easily have missed out. Careful it doesn't eat all your medium size gear No 2 - 3 cams to early or else you will run out further up, takes a couple of cheeky wires and hexes but not always so easy to place, or if your are good at jamming just go for it! Sorry it was less fun for Tim, but practice using an assisted hoist.
with tim000
Hidden 30 May, 2012 2nd O/S
MikeLell 27 May, 2012 2nd O/S Great climb! Will come back and lead it sometime.
with Lee Harrison
Great climb! Will come back and lead it sometime.
with Lee Harrison
Big Lee 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S A hidden gem. Excellent rock. The crack was very uniform so I had to keep moving my 2.5 friend up the route as I climbed.
A hidden gem. Excellent rock. The crack was very uniform so I had to keep moving my 2.5 friend up the route as I climbed.
ashsleight 21 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S I'll be back to lead this one!!! Great climb.
with Wilky
I'll be back to lead this one!!! Great climb.
with Wilky
Johnywilks 21 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Oct, 2011 2nd
Simonj 1 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with james and shirley
with james and shirley
Alpinehero 1 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Had to go off route slightly at the start as didn't have enough protection but did the crux near the top clean.
Had to go off route slightly at the start as didn't have enough protection but did the crux near the top clean.
ross brinson 21 May, 2011 2nd
EliotStephens 19 May, 2011 Lead O/S
john spence ?May, 2011 2nd
chrisallan ??, 2011 Lead O/S
PAJames ??, 2011 -
rfdl100 3 Jul, 2010 Lead dog
with Edward Woo
with Edward Woo
ritchierich 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Surprisingly good little climb but little bit dirty in the crack.Make sure you have a couple of 2 1/2 cams with you.
with Alan Evans, steve joynson
Surprisingly good little climb but little bit dirty in the crack.Make sure you have a couple of 2 1/2 cams with you.
with Alan Evans, steve joynson
Hidden 26 Jun, 2010 2nd
Lloyders 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Dave L
with Dave L
SGD 19 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Ouch!!!
with vholmes
Ouch!!!
with vholmes
Hidden 13 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf
aged_ape ?Sep, 2001 AltLd O/S
with KC
with KC
Ian Archer 29 Oct, 1995 Lead O/S Good jamming, if your used to gritstone - no problem.
with Paul Rogers
Good jamming, if your used to gritstone - no problem.
with Paul Rogers
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 18
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set