30m. Further right down the path before you reach Cardiac the route starts at an obvious crack below a bramble covered ledge. Climb the crack almost directly until the bramble covered ledge. Follow the crack above the left end of the edge (with possible diversion out left) to a second ledge and the obvious exit to the large tree above. Abseil off the tree via in-situ mallion or walk off the top.

Ticklists: Orange Spot Lower Wye, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Hidden 13/Oct/17 2nd O/S
bryan61 13/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Mr Cess
springfall2008 19/Sep/17 Lead dog

Messed up trying to get onto the second ledge and backed off for a rest on a rock spike runner. Plenty of good gear and the moves are all there but it takes a bit of thought to put them together. After the first ledge I traversed left, went up and then back right past a good rock spike runner in an otherwise blank section. We added a mallion and some abseil tat on the big tree as there wasn't one in place. Fantastic route, worth the stars. Will go back and have it clean next time, much easier with beta!

John1458 11/Sep/17 2nd O/S

Ed's interesting route finding left me seconding the beginning of Klute, then the middle of Shaft with its right escape to finish, the mantle felt a little desperate!

ProtonSL 09/Jul/17 2nd
with Martin
bpmclimb 30/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Owen
Stuart William 04/Jun/17 2nd β
with Harry
badgerjockey 04/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Great route. Moves are sustained but with two decent rests before difficulties. Definitely need to push on in stead of hanging about thumbing in more gear. Hunt left of crack at mid height for hold. Good gear anyways.

RichardMcN 18/May/17 2nd
with AngelaC
AngelaC 18/May/17 2nd
Longsufferingropeholder 07/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Brian M
bpmclimb 07/Apr/17 Lead rpt
kierankeavy 05/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Sparse on gear, but good climb

wnicholson 05/Feb/17 2nd O/S
dkilner 11/Jan/17 Lead O/S

climb off to the right of the main crag down the hill slightly and past a vegetated section. starting with a prominent no.2 crack. good climbing fairly strenuous easy to get pumped!

with james
Climbingenthusiast 11/Jan/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/16 Lead RP
pembrokeshirecaver 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Alex Hannan
Bristol_Quornstar 09/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Sam de Belder
Ian Stirrups 16/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Sue
TimKnight 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Joemanglerocks 07/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Elaine Reed 14/Jul/16 2nd

Nice route, although found it very pumpy

with Steve
steve-grigg 14/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Richard Byrom 09/Jul/16 2nd O/S

On sited pretty chuffed

with Simon Middleton
Pero 26/May/16 2nd

No way this is only 4c.

Hidden 24/May/16 Lead
ian d f 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 15/May/16 2nd
with Ian
aptius 15/May/16 TR O/S

Swung left shy of the top as had my anchor above Vanguard.

HannahC 24/Apr/16 2nd
with Aidan
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead dog
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 01/Nov/15 2nd O/S
Samuel P 01/Nov/15 2nd O/S
with Czech Vojta, Tommy
Ravenonthewire 22/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Stuart
Kirill 05/Jul/15 Lead β
mike.moss 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Legs 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Strenuous. My partner commented on my occasionally impressions of female American tennis players as it pulled up through the crux.,

with Steve
steve_gibbs 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Steve Bartle 03/Jun/15 2nd

Had a blast seconding this, but the lead looked pretty taxing. The move off the 2nd ledge requires some thinking

with Kevin V-C
simonf 26/May/15 Lead O/S

Oak tree at the top is not looking too healthy; suggest taking some tat and using a tree further back to abb off

with Simon
alastairbegley 20/May/15 Lead O/S

Felt more like HVS 5a, felt pretty serious in places

gingerbex 20/May/15 2nd O/S
gregclarke 10/May/15 2nd dnf

But did not die!

with Brian
bpmclimb 10/May/15 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 10/May/15 2nd
jon_gill1 29/Apr/15 Lead O/S

lovely climb after work, although does seem to be quite loose nearer the top.

with martin johnson
Gibbo 06/Apr/15 Lead
with Tom Sutherland
Chris Sieradzki 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S

First lead since last summer. Felt very stiff. Beginning of season and recently dislocated finger didn't help

with Hooo
Hooo 21/Mar/15 2nd

Great fun as second, I think I would have found the lead a bit desperate. Two sections of laybacks off flakes with no chance to place gear. At least I didn't have to stop and take any out!

jungle 14/Mar/15 Lead dnf
with Chris Pike
jon_ridley 08/Feb/15 Lead O/S
davidclare 08/Feb/15 2nd O/S
poeter210 18/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with argentinian machine
Huntlyfiddler 16/Jan/15 2nd
bpmclimb 16/Jan/15 Lead rpt
with Clare
Chris Sansum 15/Nov/14 Lead rpt
with Steve Collard
riff156 15/Nov/14 2nd O/S
cpoad 17/Sep/14 Lead β
with John S
Martin Bagshaw 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
clairemathews 23/Aug/14 2nd
Ian Stirrups 15/Aug/14 Lead β

Have done this many times. I start up the crack and move into the L crack where the R closes down, then back. To me, this is the natural line.

with Sue
Dave Mahon 13/Aug/14 Lead

lots of 4c and a little 5a as well!

with Brian Mead
AndyMcCoy 05/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Nick Learmont
bpmclimb 03/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 03/Aug/14 2nd
saraguti 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with jade
Ollie B 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with A.Rosier
cem 11/May/14 2nd rpt
with Tim Howard
Big Lee 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Great route with sustained climbing in the upper half.

Murilo Lessa 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Nice route.

with Lee Harisson
CurlyStevo 13/Apr/14 2nd

good, but hollow on the finishing moves.

with Mick Ward
Huntlyfiddler 23/Mar/14 2nd
bpmclimb 23/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
evhall 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

nice line - straight up crack - quite strenuous

with Dave F, Fletch
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd
pheotleyr 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Great climb with lots of gear, lots of full rests and no proper 5a move, so somewhat soft at HVS. Can still get a bit pumpy though if you decide to place yet another piece of gear instead of just going for it too often.

with Mike
The Ivanator 01/Sep/13 Lead rpt

First half led on Matt's gear after he backed off the lead. Sustained and physical climbing, had to work hard for a clean lead. Previously seconded.

with Matt
mattrm 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Started on the lead. Got to the main ledge and bailed off a good cam and a small nut. Found it very strenuous on the second. Definitely some 5a moves in there. Gear seemed largely ok apart from the hollow flake at the top.

with Ivan
riddle 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S


cem 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 12/Aug/13 2nd
bpmclimb 12/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Clare
Cheese Monkey 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Good gear, sustained hard 4c climbing, but not as pumpy as I expected. Excellent

with Ian M
Ian Miller 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Really had to push myself to climb this clean. Cracking route.

Hidden 13/Jan/13 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2013 -
bonelessivar 20/Oct/12 Lead
with Andy
Hidden 30/Aug/12 Lead
Jim Malo 29/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Deborah
Marti999 10/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Chris Sansum 16/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Climbed during a very wet spell of weather, in pouring rain after going stir crazy waiting for good weather. Looked from the ground like just the first section was totally soaking. In fact most of the holds higher up were soaking too! Satisfying to complete a route like this in the wet. Good pro.

with Tony Smith
Phil Murray 30/May/12 Lead O/S

V good route, plenty of gear, more like 5a not 4c, I'd say two of the c.three cruxes are 5a. Quite sustained but agreeable; good rock mostly.

with Liz
Chris Sansum 04/Dec/11 Lead rpt
with Richard Lade
Gibbo 25/Oct/11 Lead
with Ollie Keynes
stvredmond 01/Sep/11 Lead

this never let up from the very start, moves kept throwing themselves at you so became very sustained and quite pumpy. bomber kit all the way and gets quite steep. sure there was a 5a move in there somewhere or maybe it was the pump making it feel harder. brilliant none the less

Helnorris 01/Sep/11 2nd

Brilliant climbing but just keeps packing a punch all the way up. Doesnt let up. Glad I was only seconding it.

localboy 02/Aug/11 2nd

Tough. I had to aid near the top having already rested on the rope. Arms were fully pumped from strenuous first half.

Hidden 12/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Ybot Htulk 10/Jul/11 Lead
with Norman and Sonya
fragglerock 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Another enjoyable route; a slightly awkward start gives way to typically good climbing and a fairly bold move at around 3/4 height.

evilweed 12/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Dan
Chris Sansum 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Elena Songprasert, Gary Lewin
Didymus 19/May/11 Lead O/S

Didn't like the loose flakes at mid-height

with Nick
Hidden 14/May/11 2nd O/S
Stewart Armstrong 24/Apr/11 -
with Ivan Bicknell
The Ivanator 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Felt 5a to me, good line.

with Stewart
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
SGD 13/Mar/11 Lead

Good route - 5a

with Jonny WMC
AlexD 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

some hard moves for 4c.

with Ceri
Ceridwen 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Very good route, feels a bit more like 5a if you follow the flake all the way, its more like 4c if you mantel after the grassy ledge off to the right

crossdressingrodney 26/Feb/11 2nd O/S
with Tomar
Tomar 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Nice and sustained

with Oli
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Garron 12/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Paul Robertson 12/Dec/10 2nd O/S
with Garron
Hidden 05/Oct/10 2nd β
bpmclimb 05/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with Helen S
cornishben 27/Jul/10 2nd O/S
DorsetGareth 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Quite pleasant.

grumpyoldjanner 18/May/10 Lead O/S
with Webster
Webster 18/May/10 2nd O/S

really enjoyable on the second, maintains interest all the way. would have been a few scary moves on lead though.

chrisallan 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
theotherpetehill 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
will_benfold 25/Apr/10 2nd O/S
tobydunford 14/Mar/10 2nd β
with Harry Martin
bpmclimb 24/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 24/Sep/09 2nd
bpmclimb 17/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 17/Aug/09 2nd
aged_ape ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Christian Reynish 30/Jul/09 2nd O/S
saz_b 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Nice route, quite steep and a bit pumpy, but worthwhile. 4c? 5a!!

with Stephane
willjones ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
MD 28/Jun/09 2nd
with Paul H
spqr 28/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Ed Shaw
climbergg 23/Jun/09 Lead
Tim M 23/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Emma
lundyman 20/Jun/09 Lead
Francois S 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
evhall 21/May/09 Lead dnf
with Fletch +J
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Goofyfoot ??/2009 -
climbergg 22/Jul/08 Lead
Tim M 22/Jul/08 2nd
with Emma
thomasadixon 22/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Right on the cusp of the grade low HVS/hard VS. Nice moves.

with Bismarck
Huntlyfiddler 06/Jun/08 2nd
bpmclimb 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Clare
just one more 10/May/08 Lead
with Max B
Hidden 26/Oct/07 Lead
leigh 20/Oct/07 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 22/Sep/07 2nd
jamestryfan 16/Aug/07 TR

This route finishes as per Cardiac does. As we were were short of time we opted for a top rope, lowered each other off and then climbed back up again. A great route - would be a tricky, demanding lead for me. Did swing at one point which put me back on route! Found a size 6 nut.

with EH and CK
sadlerbrett 24/May/07 2nd dnf

Too knackered - couldn't get on to tiny ledge. Horrible. Chris didn't like it either!

with Chris Horobin
Kirill 25/Mar/07 2nd
Fat Tim 07/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Jim Slater ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Mirek
Paz 28/Jan/07 Lead O/S

Hard work.

with SB
cpoad 12/Aug/06 Lead dnf

Went the wrong way and couldn't work out how to move up

with Clare F
cpoad 12/Aug/06 TR β
Mark Davies PK ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
Wil Treasure ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S

Low end HVS IMO

clams ??/2003 Lead
with UKC Randomers
Hidden 30/Jun/02 2nd
simon kimber ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Tony Penning, Gavin Cytlau
Will Homoky 09/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Og (Andrew Forbes)
Jason Gotel ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Tim Weekes
mikej 04/Jun/00 Lead
with Nick Salmon
alan moore ??/2000 -

A tough VS but very good.

Hidden 14/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
jim_randell 25/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with FW
Hidden 04/Mar/89 Lead
Hidden 28/Jan/89 2nd
RichardMc 21/Aug/88 Lead O/S
with Geoff Dunne
DDDD ??/1986 Lead O/S
jcw ??/1985 -
with Simon Donowho
Hidden 23/Dec/84 TR
Ken Taylor 16/Oct/78 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Steve Lewis 31/Dec/76 Lead O/S
with sharpie
Andy Chubb 29/Aug/76 Lead
with Andrew Collins
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set