4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Astounding positions and superb climbing combine to give one of the region's great climbs. The route follows a severely overhung diagonal line across the cliff, starting at sea level on the tip of the headland. The positions are serious for both leader and second and in anything but good, dry conditions the climbing on the third pitch can feel insecure. Calm sea conditions are essential if the route is attempted at high tide. Start on a sea-level ledge at the tip of the headland.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb around the headland onto the west face just above the high-tide mark. Move up a small slab before moving right below a little overhang and up again to a stance on a slab at the base of a left-leaning corner.
1a) 4c, 20m. An alternative first pitch, if the tide is very high, is to climb up and then traverse a steep pocketed wall right to a good ledge on the edge of the west face, before traversing down and right to the stance.
2) 5b, 10m. Move right and down via a difficult move (back rope for second) and traverse right, either high or low, to a stance at a wide crack in the corner.
2a) 5b, 20m. An alternative high-level version of the previous pitch is possible, for conditions when the sea is a bit choppy.
3) 5b, 20m. A wild pitch. Move up to the roof and then move down slightly before heading out across the steep wall and up to regain the roof. Continue right beneath the roof, passing a protruding fin of rock, to gain a steep hanging slab. Cross this, and a small corner, before making a steep move up to better holds, small spike. Move right and swing down to a stance on a projecting foot ledge.
4) 5a, 18m. Pull through the small overhang to the base of the large right-trending corner and move out right and up onto the wall to a small ledge. Finish up the wall. Belay well back. A scramble up the cracks on the left regains the ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A regional classic, taking an improbable line under the huge roofs of Carn Gloose. The climbing is not particularly hard for E1, but the setting is serious enough to make escape difficult. Both members of the party should be competent at the grade. 4 pitches: 4b, 5a/b, 5b, 5a

R Edwards, C Bryan 31/Mar/1980

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Kernow, West Country Climbs, MIA logbook must haves!, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses.

Andrew Sloan 19/Sep Lead O/S

A sensational adventure, the best sea cliff climb I've done. I led all pitches; pitch 1 is 5a, the step down on pitch 2 is 5c, used a back rope for the second, pitch 3 a solid well protected 5b. I thought high in the grade.

with Andy
James-m-h 19/Sep AltLd O/S

lead pitches 2 and 4 taking the high line on pitch 2, top slab is superb and the 2nd pitch really makes you think, pitch 3 seeems really well protected

with joedean
adi bryant 27/Aug AltLd O/S

Our first sea cliff E1 and Rachel lead the first 5b pitch.. I got the quite wet roof bit. Great great route, even better day..

with Rachel
Sadie 25/Aug AltLd O/S

Guidebook said to scramble in, we pitched it, downwards!? Would recommend abseiling in. Strung p1 and 2 together like others, rest was brilliant but loose and wild! Would have felt E1 when dry, but seeps a lot so felt E2 to me. Especially pitch 1 and 2 which are now quite bold. Great route, but hard for the grade. Pitch 3 felt 5c, glad Adam led that one! #howbomberisyourbarnacle

with Adam B
tobydunford 10/Aug AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
Hidden 14/Jul AltLd
alexm198 08/Jul AltLd G/U

Sopping wet and therefore utterly desperate feeling! First and fourth pitches were largely fine, second pitch quite greasy and third pitch phenomenally wet and insecure. A very impressive lead from Matt on P3. I pinged out of the slimy roof underclings at the start of P3 when my right foot greased off a hold - ended up dangling worryingly close to the sea and had to climb back round to regain the stance (so seeing as I then had to start the pitch again I've put it as G/U not dogged). I'm sure it would be a fantastic route in dry conditions but it was a bit of a horror show in the wet! Climbing aside, it's a cool route with lots of atmosphere and intimidation - DoWH's evil twin brother. Led P2,4.

Matt Harle 08/Jul AltLd O/S
petecallaghan 02/Jul AltLd O/S

OMG. What an experience. Tide was high. Swell was big. Too high and big to start at the first belay so we started at the apex of the high alternate line for P1. V tight for 3. Ellie lead P1. I lead P2. Felt v v committing on the final few moves to the stance in the corner. Lovely secure stance. V v wet. I lead P3. Scary. Wet wet wet. Felt v insecure. Definitely 5b in the wet. Jamming on finger locks while fiddling in gear. Cams were useless. Rock feels v insecure when running. So relieved to get to the nice ledge at the end of the pitch. Tim lead out on P4. What a route. Best climbing experience of the year. May never return.

EllieWoods 02/Jul AltLd O/S

Amazing route but somewhat terrifying! Thought we had the conditions right, but it obviously needs a good few days to dry after rain, as we had a lot of seepage. Did the alternate P1 and P2. I led P1, Pete P2+P3, Tim P4.

timreynolds 02/Jul AltLd O/S

Sterling work from Pete leading p 2 & 3, I led p4. Belays were v. cosy for 3. Large amount of seepage made p 3 v. memorable.

kennythescot 22/Apr AltLd O/S
with Rich Mackie
The Grist 13/Apr AltLd O/S

A fun route. Felt very straight forward. Possibly hvs. Would make a good DWS if you are a competent e2 leader. Pitches one and two can easily be combined. This is what we did.

Hidden ?/Apr AltLd
FlavioL1989 15/Feb AltLd O/S
JenShelley 15/Feb AltLd
WillDoyle ?/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 3

Avon Man 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Derek
Frank the Husky ?/Jul/16 -

Did the route a few days ago. There's been a rockfall on the first pitch after rounding the corner. I'd say it's now 5a/b and a touch on the bold side, but the grade is still broadly in line with the rest of the route.

with Alex Thompson
littleduck 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and last pitches Very fun route Foothold fell off on last pitch

with Tony Madden
Rob Moorcroft 02/Jun/16 2nd

Got to the start of the climb just before high tide (around 3:30pm), coming across two guys, both called Matt. They had arrived first, with the mention of "well, at least we have some company in case anything goes wrong". After waiting at the belay, Matt said that he hadn't payed out slack for almost an hour, so we had to check up on Matt. I dutifully put Richard on belay so he could investigate. It transpired that some horrendous rope drag had resulted in both Matt, and Matt, having the other on belay and holding the dead rope wondering why the other wasn't climbing! Richard managed to sort out the rope drag issues so Matt could retreat to the safety of the ledge. Both Matts ascended their abseil rope, after taking the decision to attempt the climb on another day. Now, it was our turn. Fortunately our chance encounter with Matt, and Matt, meant we were delayed just enough to do the low tide variation. Having anchored myself in with feelings of excitement mixed with apprehension, I watched Richard leap across the rock with a beaming smile, rearing to go after our previous delays. Once Richard had hopped around the corner, my thoughts drifted to what the route had in store for us. The route was absolutely spectacular. Superb moves on high quality rock, in a stunning position. Left the first piece of gear in on the second pitch because of the mind goblins telling me about the swing I would take if I were to fall upon removing my gear. Richard, unphased and putting his MIA skills into practice carefully traversed back to remove the gear. The third pitch was wild and bold and had the added excitement of darkness closing in. We were rewarded with a (relatively speaking) straightforward pitch, topping out with the sun setting and a very firm handshake.

with Richard Ive
jhobbs 02/Jun/16 2nd

What an epic. Started about 6ish in evening, topped out at 2.30 am! Myself and Charlie seconding had no torch for the last pitch so climbed in complete darkness. Crazy!!

with Charlie chambers, Pete Belfield
David Coley 30/May/16 -

Great climb. Nothing even near 5b, but it is E1.Even more so if damp.

harvie ??/2016 -
Darron ??/2016 -
Hidden 18/Oct/15 AltLd dog
nickdonohue 01/Sep/15 AltLd
with Tom Lawfield
HaleAlex ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and P3. Just about managed to beat the tides. WHAT A CLIMB!

kenhansard 27/Aug/15 AltLd

Combo with ghost

Hidden 06/Aug/15 AltLd
Mark Kemball 03/Aug/15 2nd

What a superb route! Oddly I couldn't remember anything about it from last time.

with Duncan Robinson, Solly Kemball Dorey
lukegorman 01/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Had to skip the first pitch due to extremely rough seas at high tide. lead the 20m 5b pitch (3. in WCC). Incredible!

JoeCoxson 01/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Climbed at high tide. Had to abseil into a ledge about 3/4 along the first pitch due to swell, then did the high tide variation of pitch 2. I took P2&4, luke lead the awesome P3. Proper climbing adventure, some very atmospheric swell around the corner, but we managed to stay dry. Finished just as the sun was setting

pete johnson 22/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
robgixer 18/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Dizz 21/Jun/15 AltLd dnf

First pitch both ways due to high seas!

with Ian F
Hidden 05/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
foostu4 05/Jun/15 AltLd
fulton333 20/May/15 Lead

Think we did the low line on P1 and the high one on P2, seemed the most logical. Forgot nutkey so some stuck nuts but the route was alot of fun, basking shark floating round the bay too! Superb!

with Aidan
aidanchitty ??/2015 2nd
with Grant Fulton
beni ??/2015 AltLd
Jacob Phillips ??/2015 Lead
Scooter Young ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 05/Oct/14 AltLd
DubyaJamesDubya 28/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Big sea!

with Ian Smith
musgravet 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Olly had P1 (4b) and P3(5b), I took P2(5b) and P4(5a)

with Olly P
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd
nickdonohue 03/Aug/14 AltLd

A brilliant adventure; very intimidating when you turn the corner, but it is surprisingly amenable technically. We did the high variation of pitch 1 (not by intention it just seemed the obvious way to go) and then pitches 2,3 and 4 as per original description. However, a rockfall has altered the end of the low variation of pitch 1. We saw the team after us climb this way (so it is possible) but it may be a bit harder now. Also (as their leader orginally did before he realised he had overshot the 1st belay) it is possible (and may be more logical) to continue traversing at this lower level and go straight to the 2nd belay. i.e. run the old pitches 1 and 2 together.

Dilwat 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

P2 and 4. Remarkable climb. Goes through some fantastic situations with something around every corner! It looks like there has been a rockfall below the belay stance at the end of P1. We took the high line which seemed fine but a group after us came through low and seemed to miss the stance altogether ending up below the belay point. Having not done this before I don't know what has changed.

spragglerocks 30/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1&3. Got lost on p1 ended up on higher line. Awesome committing route, happy to get this tick!

with Matt
richiebongo 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Lead most of it until the final wall on pitch 4 where i took a belated belay.

with Mat Coburn
1poundSOCKS 29/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

We abseiled in, pulled the ropes, and got confused. I was planning to lead the 5b downclimb (P2), but Rich got lost and ended up on the belay for P3. He kindly (???) offered the lead of the 'wild' 5b pitch, which was nice and damp, but I didn't want spoil his fun (and get us benighted/killed/wet), so I declined. I then led P4, or most of P4 because Rich missed the belay again. A serious route for both, make sure leader and second are competent at the grade, but also great fun if you are. A pint of shandy in the Gurnard's Head afterwards and I just about managed to drive us back to the campsite. Memorable day.

Alex Mason 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Main pitch is fantastic, the rest are rather droll.

with Jemma Powell
tim newton 26/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Sean Kelly 18/Jun/14 2nd dnf

No belay ledge after the first pitch so a rope of three was not a good idea. Reversed back and soloed up the abseil line, leaving the others to complete the climb, while the rest of us supped beer in the Gurnard's Head!

with MaccMark, James Williams
MaccMark 18/Jun/14 AltLd
with Gareth Williams
Fred_Richard 14/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Most of P1 has fallen into the sea it appears probably last winter I guess. We escaped on the west wall by the abseil as we did not no know how much more was affected. From what I read here the rest of the route is OK. May be we could have tried.

with bill turner
Brian H 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

led P1 and P3 - brilliant route.

Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Drew M ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Kirill 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Got lost on P1, so Graham led another pitch to get us to the right place. I then led P2 and P4. Will have to come back to lead P3. Such an amazing route!

tumbling wizard ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with andrew marshall
mike mo ??/2014 -
gripped01 24/Aug/13 AltLd

Led pitches 2 to 4. Just an amazing route.

with Alex Tomczynski
Tom Livingstone 07/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3. Amazing territory. Best to wait for afternoon sun to burn off the grease.

Dan Lane 07/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

P2 and 4. How good is this! lots of different climbing styles and the rock on the last pitch reminded me of gogarth Red Walls a little...

gowla 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Keith Mitchell, will kumar
Alex the Alex ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

A reaally good climb. One of the wildest and most commiting climbs I think ive done! How the hell did they ever find it! Lead 2nd and 4th and will be back to lead the 3rd.

owillmot ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with AIT
Hidden 26/Jun/13 2nd
Kevster 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Not as good as the hype suggests. Done in 2 pitches - p1&2, then P3&4. Glad it was this way as the belay after P3 was just a little fishy.

with Dave R
Justin T 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

P1&3, raining when we started, brilliant stroll out above a beautiful sea.

John Mcshea 08/Jun/13 AltLd
Joel Perkin 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Big Rob
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 18/May/13 2nd O/S

Big queue. We pissed around doing the first few pitch variations a few times back and forwards while waiting including me taking a lead lob when a hold snapped.

with JAn Slovenia, Adam Booth
Adam Booth 18/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Jan (BMC International Meet), Ed Booth
soph 18/May/13 Solo rpt


morganator 18/May/13 Solo

Wild trip, crashing sea beneath. All chalked up but greasy on the crux

Misha 17/May/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing, five stars, best E1 I've ever done! Total commitment on a devious line with insane space walking positions. Viktor took the higher line on P1 after deciding that what turned out to be the lower line looked too hard. I led P2, which meant Viktor got the exciting downclimb, fortunately there was a small cam to protect it. This time I took the upper line after deciding the lower line looked too hard! A good technical 5b sequence ensued. Viktor got the wild pitch, which was interesting to second. In his words, the little downclimb to the belay was 'the whipped cream on the mashed potatoes' - a Swedish saying meaning OTT! I led the easier escape pitch. A real sea cliff experience. It rained while we were on it but it stayed dry, apart from some holds that we're damp anyway! Deafening noise from the swell hitting the rocks opposite the cliff but underneath the cliff it was sheltered from the NE wind, so at least we didn't get splashed! With Viktor on the BMC international meet. Simply brilliant. Should be E2 for the commitment and the crazy situations.

with Viktor
Dean Russell 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
adie84 ??/2013 -
cymjt ??/2013 -
The_Boy_ODwyer 10/Aug/12 AltLd

P2 and 4

with Ian Lau
Hidden 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
mick1jones 06/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Led pitches 2 and 4

with Rich Rogers
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

great climb

with Colin
El3ctroFuzz 30/May/12 Lead O/S

Did p2 + p3. Joe did P1 + P4. I didnt really find it that 'Wild' But certainly an interesting route... Soft for 5b but potentially committing.

with Joe Harris
greenclimb 09/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Dave Rumney 30/Mar/12 AltLd

cold, sheltered, dry & wild

with Tanya Milner
Hidden ??/2012 -
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 AltLd
with Alex Haslehurst
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
guy757 06/Nov/11 AltLd

Wild third pitch

Frostie 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Well worth the 3 stars, the pitch up to and under the roof pure magic.

soph ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 18/Aug/11 AltLd
Macca_7 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. This a superb route which I have wanted to do forever and it didn't disappoint. Prehaps the most perfect conditions you could wish for, for an ascent. Superb. The drop down is a tricky move at the start of p2 harder to second I think? P3 is superb great climbing in wild positions with lots of stonking holds and a touch of damp to boot.

with Si O'Hora
BeccaSnowden 24/Jun/11 2nd dog

Slipped on wet rock on pitch 2 and grabbed gear on even wetter pitch 3. Exciting!

with Tom
thomasadixon 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Awesome! Was dry to start then started raining when I was on the second pitch. I stayed dry thanks to the overhangs for this and the next pitch (though the rock was soaking from seepage) then had a soaking wet slab to finish. Climbing didn't feel hard for E1 but atmosphere was awesome, especially standing on the belays watching the rain pouring down. Climbed as a four.

CRiddiford 24/Jun/11 2nd

really fun, even in the rain, got some jams too!

with Tom, Becca, Mike
oliver.ghill91 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
hamish2016 ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing route!

with Oliver Hill
Ian Jones 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Some scary rock getting to the first belay. Awkward descent on pitch 2. Main pitch ok and pitch 4. Very hot.

with Colonel Sir Timothy Clarke C.E.O., Major Daniel Moore
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd dog
GeoffG ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
Jacob k-d 25/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

wild climb in some incredible positions. dws potential?

with dave gill
david morse 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

very intimidating! Pretty scary for E1 but probably not E2. Wouldnt bother with the back rope, I used it but was more hassle than good. The runners are good enough without it. p3 is the meat of the route anyhow, Amazing route

with chris todd
Hidden 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Si dH 13/Aug/10 AltLd dnf

Got as far as the start of pitch 2 and then retreated due to combination of wet holds, rising tide and rough seas. Will come back.

with Neil Furniss
Bobby Gilbert 12/May/10 AltLd O/S

With Marko from Croatia on BMC international meet. Poured with rain while we were on it but none of the holds got wet! Brilliant route.

with Marko Martinovic
Hidden 23/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/09 AltLd dnf
Hidden 01/Jul/09 Lead dnf
chris sm 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Got soaked by a wave on the 1st 2 metres of the route.... all plain sailing after that.

with Pippa Froggatt
cornishben 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Fantastic Route. Backed off on Thursday evening after seeing the 1st belay being soaked by a wave. This time all went smoothly. Led P2/4

with Marc Elliot
Owen W-G 05/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 (high tide traverse with 5b splits move) and P4, mercifully easy after the first move. P3 was a bit of a struggle, altho I did get cold sat at second stance for ages. The full body jam is an unavoidable grovel as far as I could tell.

with Gav
Hidden 29/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd rpt
riddle 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S

A superb climb, wonderfully terrifying. Pitch 3 was the best.

mikeyjbs 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Hidden 01/Sep/08 Lead
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Hidden 14/Jun/07 Lead O/S
cem 06/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Led p 2 & 4

Tim Sparrow ?/Apr/07 AltLd


with Geoff Thomas
yesbutnobutyesbut ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden 05/Jul/06 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
PaulTanton ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Dave Taylor
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 18/Sep/05 AltLd
Tim Steward 17/Jun/05 AltLd
with James Parrot
John Kettle ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 30/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
WB ??/2001 AltLd O/S
with Guy
jfletcher 17/Jun/00 AltLd

Big sea!

with Roger Alston
Marti999 ?/Apr/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 AltLd
Mark Kemball 29/Jul/99 Lead
with Ian Howdin
andy_pemberton ??/1999 AltLd
with Steve Gooberman Hill
Hidden ?/May/98 AltLd O/S
belay bunny turned bad ??/1998 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1998 AltLd
lost.arrow 31/Mar/97 AltLd
with Tim Malone
Hidden 30/Mar/97 AltLd
Just Another Dave ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with Ben Hope
colin milton 15/Sep/96 AltLd dog


with eric milton
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
GAtkins 21/Oct/95 AltLd O/S
with Jonny Baker
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Jul/95 Lead
with Emmy McCowen
Hidden ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/May/95 Lead O/S
frost ?/May/95 AltLd
markpollak ??/1995 -
with roy thomas
John Southworth ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 26/May/91 -
with keefe
keefe 26/May/91 -
RichardMc 30/Mar/91 AltLd O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd O/S
TonyF ?/May/90 AltLd O/S
with Pete Scott
Bullybones ??/1990 -
BigHairyIan 29/Aug/89 AltLd O/S

MAGNIFICENT route. Well named. Very committing, and good at the grade. Don't fail!

with Mike Buckley (Little Mike)
Mike Owen 24/Aug/89 2nd
with Lew Brown, Elaine Owen
Bruce Kerr 13/Jul/89 AltLd
with Keith Turton
robbie Warke ??/1988 Solo O/S

Amazing day, windy but dry, one of my best days climbing ever!

Nigel Coe 24/May/87 -

Approx date

with Steve Berry, Gordon Jenkin
Hidden 10/May/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/85 AltLd
keefe 27/Aug/84 -
Paul Clarke ??/1983 -
jon ?/May/82 AltLd
with paul m
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
rob1 ??/0000 AltLd
with Dave Williams
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 55
High ??
Mid ??
Low ??
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set