Down and left from the dirty gully. Follow a very shallow groove then up a poorly protected slab to a mantleshelf and gear. Up the flake then into the steep groove left of the flying fin. Finish as for The Firebird.

C Milford, M Putnam 13/Apr/1972

Ticklists: Ultimate E2 ticklist.

will rivers 13/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Duncan
cem 06/Aug/17 Lead rpt
Brodes 06/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with cem
Owen W-G 30/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Bold start not that bold at all, lots of gear in top half of slab, unlike Firebird. Overall much easier than Shaft thanks to good rests before hard bits. Tricky crux move R, then stretchy move up mind.

with Brian
bpmclimb 30/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with Owen
TomRiddelsdell 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S

The climbing is fairly easy going but you have to be quite inventive to protect the first 6m

Matt77 24/Jun/17 2nd

Tom got loads of year in the first part. Great moves in the groove.

with Tom Riddelsdell
Stickle Tarn 17/Jun/17 Lead O/S
badgerjockey 04/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Proper meaty climb, delicate start (take care on loose holds!) with exciting exposed and sport-like finish! Amazing!

Stuart William 04/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Awesome! So much fun. Really classy climbing. More gear than you could want higher up and the bold start is safe enough. Got to be up there as one of my favourite routes. Just brilliant.

with Harry
Longsufferingropeholder 07/Apr/17 Lead O/S

If you relax and look around there's just about enough gear. Not sure I found a 5c move.

with Brian M
bpmclimb 07/Apr/17 2nd rpt
Tala A 02/Apr/17 2nd rpt
Nathan Chrismas 25/Mar/17 2nd O/S
with Timms
WillAndrew 21/Jan/17 Lead O/S
with Ali
ali.scott 21/Jan/17 2nd O/S
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
Frank the Husky ??/2017 -
julesmckim 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Upper groove is awesome. Found the lower wall a bit unnnerving, perhaps due to the guidebook description. It's only about VS and the gear is actually alright. Then just a great sequence into the groove and up it. Ran out of quick draws!

Adam24B 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Kris2fa 09/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Adam24B
beagly77 02/Jul/16 2nd
with cem
cem 02/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Stanners 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S

ran out of quick draws with miles to go! Cant believe how long the routes are here. Varied climb but tricky moves in the top groove.

with Steve G
steve_gibbs 03/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 13/May/16 Lead O/S
James Smith 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with melty
Rob McGurk 06/Mar/16 2nd β
steve-grigg 06/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/16 2nd dog
Avon Man 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Surely E1 with microwires.

with Derek
bpmclimb 31/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 31/Jul/15 2nd
London Luke 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S

lovely line with interesting technicality.

with Emily
EmilyN 15/Jun/15 2nd
with Toph
Legs 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S

My first ever E2 5c onsight! Very well protected with cool moves on the crux. Sun on my back and second climb of the day.

with Steve
steve_gibbs 11/Jun/15 2nd O/S
stevoland 26/May/15 Lead O/S
jsmcfarland 26/May/15 2nd O/S

Overall a fairly easy E2. The crux section (moving up and right near the start of the proper groove) has the 5c moves and is fall-offable, but the route has gear and isn't particularly sketchy. Very nice

with Steve
gingerbex 12/May/15 2nd

Hardest but most enjoyable climb of the evening

alastairbegley 12/May/15 Lead RP

Seconded this two years ago. Brilliant route, bold start is safe enough if you look hard enough for gear. Crux was well protected and enjoyable.

adam 24 26/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Caroline
theotherpetehill 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Georgina Brooke
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Gemma, Claire
Leelogs 04/Apr/15 2nd
rurp 02/Dec/14 -

To crux groove then felt scared and bailed up groove on left. E15b

with bill farmer
ian d f 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Pete H
ollie1 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Ian Stirrups 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Sues birthday. Got stuck at the crux in a very poor rest for a long time - went into a mental cul de sac. Solution as ever obvious when i finally made it. Good to get a new tick at Wynd Cliff after 35 years climbing there.

with Sue
dale.young 20/Jul/14 2nd
Chris Sieradzki 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

It's 3 stars from me. Amazing pitch, nice moves all the way through. Bold start its not that bad - one tricam and couple of small wires.

Pintsize 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
will_benfold 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Dave Thompson 11/Jul/14 2nd
Julie Carroll 11/Jul/14 Lead
with Dave Thompson
AlexRenshaw 22/Jun/14 Lead
mikeyjbs 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with mat downes
pimpy 25/May/14 2nd
with Charles
cem 25/May/14 2nd rpt

Efficiently dispatched by Kirill - his first E2 lead

Kirill 25/May/14 Lead O/S

Didn't seem much harder than the Firebird, but I'll take the E2 tick, thanks.

Hidden 21/May/14 Lead β
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd β
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Tomar 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
chrisscutt 23/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with tomar
evhall 07/Sep/13 Lead RP

stopped by crux, top rope to figure it out - then climbed clean

with Steve P
LucasHarazin 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
riddle 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Just peachy.

cem 18/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Dibdawg 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Phil Mitchel
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead β
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 23/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
Mistee 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Scary and challenging even as a second - loved it!!

with Phil
Justin T 29/Mar/13 2nd
with Cherry
Hidden 29/Mar/13 Lead dnf
Kyuzo 17/Mar/13 -
maffujones 13/Mar/13 2nd
jcook1980 13/Mar/13 Lead
with Math Jones
Dean Russell 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
gripped01 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Alex Tomczynski
Stone Muppet 06/Oct/12 2nd dnf

Fair play to Andy taking a big lead fall; we finished up the groove to the left. Lower wall is a bit sketchy!

with af
drcorbasisgod 16/Sep/12 2nd O/S
cem 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/12 2nd
LukeyG 11/Jul/12 Lead
Mr Powly 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Rozzy
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
lukewilliams 13/May/12 2nd
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead
james.slater 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

The start is quite bold but easy climbing, and the top groove is just awesome, although the crux isnt really that hard, just short and sharp, easy 5c?

with Ell Meachen
mick1jones 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Rich Rogers
James Marshall ?/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Dick Hall, rich hard rock
Ricky Rocks 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with richard hall, James Marshall
Hidden 16/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines 08/Jan/12 2nd
Nick Russell 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S

The bold start was better protected that Firebird, but slightly trickier climbing.

with Craig
CraigMcAteer 13/Nov/11 2nd dog
with nick
Eike 01/Oct/11 2nd
with Tom Blight
thomb 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing in the top section.

with Eike
Hidden 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
msoldn 03/Sep/11 2nd O/S

after initial run out section on some suspect rock, top section is amazing, with some fantastic moves

with Sam
Ollie B 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

nice climbing, had to look for the gear toward the start but good route.

with B.Brewer
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
3 Names 02/Jul/11 2nd β
just one more 13/May/11 Lead
with Svenn G
Hidden 13/May/11 2nd O/S
Goose4 04/May/11 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Lower section is bold and sparse - but climbable nevertheless. Really enjoyable

with steve tree
Hidden ??/2011 -
mikespooner 13/Nov/10 2nd dog
with Jake Lloyd
Robin Head 13/Nov/10 TR β
with Jacob
jacobjlloyd 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Similar in grade and style to Firebird to the right, but with less loose rock, more flowing sequence, and really well protected. Guide said run-out, but I placed bomber small nuts at least every two metres the whole lower section. Safe, solid, with a crux that takes unlocking but is definitely at the lower limit of the grade. Definitely worth doing, and if you are thinking about Firebird, skip it and do this instead!

Matt Johnson 30/Aug/10 2nd
peaches69 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with sarah
DorsetGareth 27/Jul/10 2nd O/S
cornishben 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S
stuart34 09/Jun/10 2nd
climber sim ?/May/10 -
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
tobydunford 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Trefo 11/Feb/10 Lead O/S

steady going, fantastic route. Bold low down, then well protected higher up, grea fun.

colkurtz 30/Jan/10 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 30/Jan/10 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 06/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Marti999 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Different Steve 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Clio
joehanks61 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Coulthard
Clee 20/Jun/09 2nd
with Steve
Dan_Carroll 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Eric Herring
gdb4060 05/Apr/09 Lead

Came off at the crux then completed.

with Rick Sewards
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Phil PBC ??/2009 -
Hidden 25/Oct/08 Lead
leigh 25/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Ed
al99 12/Oct/08 Lead β
martinazando 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
climbergg 25/Jun/08 2nd
Tim M 25/Jun/08 Lead
with Emma
poey50 15/Jun/08 2nd

Messed up the top

with Chris W
Bristoldave 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Joe & Caroline
CarolineH 31/May/08 2nd O/S
with Dave and Joe
LC ?/May/08 Lead O/S
just one more 12/Apr/08 Lead
with tim b
Huntlyfiddler 22/Mar/08 2nd
bpmclimb 22/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this route, which is low in the grade IMO. I didn't think the first bit was particularly bold - certainly less bold and somewhat easier than The Firebird which only gets E1 5a.

with Clare
Hidden 13/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 04/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S
with David Elder
Wil Treasure ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with CraigP
Hidden 19/Jun/03 Lead
tom.e ??/2003 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 30/Jun/02 2nd
simon kimber ??/2001 Lead O/S
Roget 01/May/00 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 27/Feb/99 2nd
with Mike Harris
Rob Oram 24/May/98 2nd dnf

Managed about 70% of the route then ran out of ability and strength!

with Phil Milanes
Martin Bennett 27/Aug/94 -
with MT
Derek Ryden ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Andy Turner
Hidden 14/Oct/89 2nd
GordonHart ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Dr. Jeremy
Steve Lewis 19/Jun/76 Lead O/S
with Phil Thomas
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 51
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
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