80m, 2 pitches.
Start in the indented face, 15m to the north of the Thumb East Ridge start (just go around the "hump" at the base of the ridge line). Thin face climbing (f5c) with sparse and sometimes dubious protection follows weaknesses, some precarious flakes and thin cracks directly up for about 45m to a large alcove (the "niche" at the start of P2 in the Thumb East Ridge route). Then move right and follow an obvious gully-like feature up to a large ledge -- the 2nd belay of Thumb East ridge, about 55m). From the ledge move up, angling to the left onto an orange lichen-covered face, then straight up past some large flakes, move left and up to easier climbing with good protection – beware of loose blocks on the way! – and onto a large ledge for the second belay (25m). Continue up the east ridge route.
Carter Mandrik and Mert Cem Atak 05/Oct/2013.
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Route of Interest
Tut Beni Düsmeden
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Styloid Process (Pentadaktylos))