UKC

The route can be traversed in both directions; this description traverses east to west Starting at Turtagrø.

1. Helgedalen (Turtagrø hotel) to Gjertvassbreen (Gjertvasskaret): First following a tractor road, then steep ridge east of Styggedalasbreen to Gjertvassbreen. Steep crevassed snow/ice slope to the col (threatened by serac and avalanche on occasion). If you wish to ascend Gjertvasstind from Gjertvasskaret, this takes between 2-3 hours depending on conditions. Normally it is to first traverse out on the NW face until it is possible to climb over a bergshrund and afterwards on steep snow (40 degrees) for 80 vertical meters. It is also possible to climb this top via the east ridge, which is less technically demanding. However, it is a much longer approach from Turtagrø or Skogadalsbøen DNT hut, and you still need to descend to Gjertvasskaret.

2. Gjertvasskaret to Styggedalstind East:  Steep snow and scrambling. Grade 2/3. It’s possible to take the steep snow north of the ridge in the beginning.

3. Styggedalstind East to Styggedalstind West.  Airy ridge.  Occasional cheeky up and down sections. Grade 2/3.

4. Styggedalstind West to Sentratind:  Scrambling down the west ridge until a defined blocky runnel on the south side can be descended (grade2/3 in the runnel) to snow slopes. Traverse the snow slopes back on to the ridge, going over a flattish knob halfway along (possible bivi spot) and continuing along a fine airy arête until it suddenly becomes much steeper. This defines the start of the climbing section which is normally undertaken in 4 pitches.

Pitch 1) grade 4, 25m. A large leaning block defines the start of the climb. Traverse 10m on the north side on an airy ledge until it´s is possible to climb up a groove to a flattening of the ridge at 10m. Traverse the flat section and continue up a groove passing through a short chimney to a 20m wide ledge. It might be possible to climb the first section direct at a slightly harder grade.

Pitch 2) grade 3, 30m. After transiting the 20m ledge, the next pitch starts at a defined steepening of the ridge. Climb the right-hand side of the ridge on good solid flakes until the ridge flattens again.

Pitch 3) grade 3, 30m. Continue up the ridge to a ledge on the south side below some natural steps.

Pitch 4) grade 3, 30m. Climb the natural steps on the south side until it´s is possible to traverse back to the ridge and then to the top.

This section of climbing will be hard under snowy/icy conditions.

5. Sentraltind to Vetle Skagastølstind:  1 x rappel from Sentraltind to the col between Vetle Skagastølstind (30m, grade 4 if you climb it) snow traversing and scrambling. Bivi spots and possible water. A 60m rope will just touch down on the abseil.

From Vetle Skagastølstind continue along the Skagastølstind traverse. Described in another section.

ClimberDateStyle
GarethSL 22/Jul AltLd O/S

Descended this route after doing Skagastølsryggen and Storen. We bivvied up by Østre Styggedalstind and descended down into Gjertvasskaret to find that the normal snow slope up to the summit of Gjertvasstind was non existent. There was also a wide open and deep bergschrund here. The normal way up was not obvious and there has been so much snow melt the snow slope described in the guide was not present. We traversed the glacier on slushy snow and solid ice ca 50-60 degrees (protected with ice screws) checking out some options but went over to the ledge on the northern side. Found a really nice route following chimneys and lay-back cracks up the ridge starting up the east side of the ridge then trending to the west. From the Summit we descended the winter route down the snow arete to peak 1924 then down into Gjertvassdalen. We then returned via Gjertvassdalen up to Gjertvatnet (after a difficult river crossing due to the high volumes of water) through Keiserpasset, down Skautehaugane and along Helgedalen all the way back to Turtagrø, arriving at 20:00. From leaving our camp on Saturday to our return to Turtagrø on Sunday the trip took a total of about 40 hours.

with Steffan, Einar
Jacob Jutrem 22/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Fortsettelse etter skagastølsryggen. En liten rapell (3 meter) i nederste del av sentraltind. Løpende forankring opp gjertvasstind. Ellers uten tau.

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