Two pitches: F7a+ (7b+ direct), F7b.
Start at a belay below the left edge of the largest ceiling.

P1. Climb a huge flake to a ledge. Work up leftwards through bulges to a break. Step left for a rest, then move up to a small pillar. From the top of the pillar traverse right to the belay. The direct climbs straight up to the belay from the break.

P2. Follow the groove above to the top.

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Classic UK F7s, Cheddar Road To 7a Ruins, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rock cats getting strong, The road to paradise lost.

Cassidy 07/May/17 Lead O/S
with Rob Sutton
ricci.andrea86 ?/Nov/16 Lead G/U
Hidden 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
chrisscutt 09/Oct/16 Lead dog

I flashed the first pitch, fell off the second and carried on to the top

with ali k
blaza1 20/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Onsighted 1st and 3rd pitch, fell off seconding 2nd, climbing with a bag is hard... Great route.

with liam jones
jonsey1995 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Led p1 onsight just about (phew) then alex went and onsighted p2 clean too! great evening climb!:)

with blaza1
PeterDawson 15/Sep/16 Lead O/S
max_dickens 14/Sep/16 Lead dog

Remarkable route with great climbing in a crazy position, Have wanted to do this for a long time and it did not disappoint. Went wrong handed On p1 and lost the on sight. Came off twice in the Mega groove on P2. Thought the pitch to get to the route was a spicy number for 6a+?

Eduardo Martinez 17/Jun/16 Lead O/S

In one pitch. Had 80m rope and managed to get down with plenty of rope to spare. Did Touching the void 7b+ start by mistake, thinking this is bloody hard for only 7a+. While comfortably bridged to clip a bolt on the upper groove a foothold snapped on me, sending me flying. So technically it's not a clean onsight but who cares.

brices 25/May/16 Lead O/S

On sighted second pitch, seconded first which i had done previously. Great adventure after work, good climbing in an outrageous position.

with Remus
Hidden 24/May/16 AltLd dog
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 22/Jun/15 2nd RP

Supposed to be alternating lead, but ran out of go on my lead of the second pitch.

Wise 22/Jun/15 Lead dog

Rested on P1, then red pointed P2. Quality climbing in an epic position. Not too hard, plenty of bolts but still feels exposed. A Cheddar must do.

with Gareth
_m.cox_ 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Linked into one mega pitch, a few extenders, a lot of doubled up QD's and a bit of reversing to take draws out and surprisingly the drag wasn't too bad.

DorsetGareth 07/Jun/15 AltLd dog

Lead first pitch, but failed at the crux - had spend a bit of time working it out. Top roped the second pitch clean.

piken 17/May/15 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2- not sure if was climbing or falling upwards

with Andy
adam 24 16/May/15 AltLd

O/s the 7a+ pitch I led. Misread the sequence going through the roof on the groove pitch, slipped there.

with Ross
quiffhanger 16/May/15 AltLd O/S

Let P2. Brill! Tho hard with numb hands & feet. It was freezing - def should have taken the clue from name of the crag and startred a couple of hours later.

tobydunford 28/Apr/15 Lead O/S

This climb may have just changed my life forever...... what a belter!

with Harry Martin
James Marshall 15/Apr/15 Lead RP

Climbed as one long pitch but got awful rope drag, 2nd go extended the 2 clips at the top of first pitch with 4' slings. Probably best to do the 7b+ first pitch if you are going to do it as a mega route ! Anyway, beautiful sunny evening on sunset buttress - unbeatable

with Mike Coles
thomas108 ??/2015 -
WB 01/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy M
LucasHarazin 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Led both pitches, L1 flash, L2 OS

just one more 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Great position with some good varied climbing.1st pitch juggy and pumpy, 2nd tenuous bridging. Led both pitches, 1st onsight,2nd flashed but only just!

flashpanther 01/Jul/14 AltLd dog

managed to lead the 7a+ clean, but cheated shameless up the second pitch to the top.

pezzerrr 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
DrGav 05/Oct/13 Lead RP

7a+ pitch first redpoint. Pumpy and exposed! Fantastic moves but with some loose rock as you traverse above that roof.

with Dave
brices 26/Sep/13 Lead β

first pitch only as top one wet

with Yan
Jeronimo 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

L1 & L2 in one pitch. Desert island route. Mind blowing. Did the direct by accident, 7b not 7b+.

Mike Goldthorp 13/May/13 AltLd O/S

Stunning climb, the most adventurous-feeling bolt clipping I've ever done! Hard crux on the first pitch, only just managed it on second, and then lead the GLORIOUS groove pitch at the top which felt OK, getting used to the exposure and all that I guess. A must-do Cheddar (and British) classic!

Graham Atkins 13/Jun/12 AltLd
with will boxen
Tris.w 25/Mar/12 Lead RP

seconded the 7a+, lead the 7b. Will be back to lead the 7a+ into a different top pitch. Great route!

with Donald
John Mcshea 23/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch, superb route on an awesome crag.

richiebongo 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Dan Perrot
Hidden 23/Sep/11 Lead dog
Bristoldave 23/Sep/11 Lead dog

1st pitch 1st RP. Fell on top pitch. One to come back to.

Tomar 19/Jun/11 Lead RP

RP the 7a+ pitch only.

with Tom
Billg 15/May/11 Lead O/S

Great route, but a bit chilly !! P1 is really only 7a

with Will Calvert
willbatho 13/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/11 2nd RP
Hidden 07/May/11 2nd dog
Tom Heslam ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S


with Rosea
Rosea Day ?/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Thomas Heslam
Hidden 08/Sep/10 Lead RP
guy xavier percival 25/Jun/10 Lead β

direct on pitch 1 is 7b.

with paul
Paul Robertson 24/Jun/10 Lead dog

P1 direct with a rest. P2 on aid. Nerves seemed to be the main problem.

eddy-on-the-rocks 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Silly fall on the first pitch then on sighted it to the top.

with James
Hidden 21/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 23/May/10 2nd dog
Dave Turnbull, BMC 16/May/10 AltLd

One hang on P1 when moved too far left; P2 clean.

with Jiri Sefl (Czech)
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead β
billb ?/May/10 AltLd
richsmithinbristol ?/May/10 Lead O/S

Second pitch. A great place to spend the evening!

Rich Kirby 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic position & rock, classic! Led 7b pitch.

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 18/Apr/10 AltLd

DNF as fell off seconding the last pitch and tore a massive flap of skin off my finger : (

with Richard Kirby
James Marshall 09/May/09 Lead O/S

just the 7a+ pitch (first hard OS) then into Bird of paradise to work.

Kev Little ??/2009 Lead O/S
Ged Desforges ??/2009 -

another one amazing as a long pitch, linking both pitches (doing the dirtect on p1). 7b? not sure the first pitch is worth a plus, easier than p1 of bird of paradise.

SamStokes 21/Sep/08 2nd dog

Amazing! first pitch was alright nice and steady but had a real hard time on pitch 2! Fantastic climbing though well worth its 3 stars!!!

with Alex Harper
Paul Robertson 16/Sep/08 Lead dog

Redpointed P1, worked P2

with Peter Shepherd
eddieclimb ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Paz 14/May/08 2nd rpt

First pitch only (7a+)

with CS
Hidden ??/2007 -
Ally Smith 07/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

Lead P2; one of my first ever 7b on-sights. Very chuffed

Paz 07/Oct/06 2nd dog

Lead P1 onsight (steady 7a+), but frigged P2 seconding - holds at a shakeout were wet (but it would still have been too hard if dry).

with AS
westyb3 ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S

linked both pitches. awesome!!!

Hidden 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/06 2nd
Hidden ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/05 Lead dnf
frank ramsay ??/1990 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1981 AltLd
with Jim Thomas
55 users have this on their wishlist
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set