Climb the thin finger crack until it peters out at a horizontal break. Move up onto the wall above via finger pockets to a PR. Finish up the flake and sandy headwall to the right.

Ticklists: The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven..

Jmpollard 17/Nov/17 2nd rpt
robbjackson 17/Nov/17 Lead O/S

First O/S E2 on lead! pretty chuffed with it, what an awesome climb

noah 12/Oct/17 Lead dog

Fell off the crux crack, can't jam very well so found it very tough with a super intense layback on second go. Need to keep practising jamming...

with Pagan
db79 23/Aug/17 Lead rpt

Seconded Mike up it and it felt good, so figured I should probably have a crack at the lead. First attempt saw me completely forgetting the sequence and downclimbing from the crux. Had a shake, figured out what I was doing wrong and went again. Went fine second time round - foot out left on a smear, two fingers from right hand in the finger crack and pull harder to the jug. Very last hold at the top of the route is loose. It may have been like this forever, but worth noting.

Hidden 23/Aug/17 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Aug/17 2nd rpt
adi bryant 23/Aug/17 2nd

With a whimper Lee's first E2..

with Lee
scottcoates 25/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Rob
Tom.Priestley 17/Jun/17 Lead rpt
Tom.Priestley 21/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Soft at E2, stainless peg is unnecessary

Hidden 21/Apr/17 2nd rpt
karly54 20/Apr/17 TR rpt

Done using traxion.

foostu4 15/Apr/17 2nd O/S
1poundSOCKS 14/Sep/16 Lead G/U

Failed on an overly ambitious lead attempt a few years ago. Mostly comfortable climbing, but a bit reachy and the move in the crack felt hard for 5b, might have got my sequence a bit wrong.

Will Hunt 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with John McMahon
db79 03/Aug/16 TR dog

Not climbing anywhere near well enough for this.

Hidden 03/Aug/16 TR O/S
markfairbank 10/Apr/16 Lead dog

Slipped out of thin crack, very good climbing!

Mike Todd 26/Mar/16 2nd rpt
with Neil Hillis
Graeme Hammond 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

If you only come to Baildon once make sure you tick this beauty. A good early season venue in the sunshine. Great moves and inter spaced with good gear.

PaulTanton 14/Feb/16 TR rpt

Five times On my shunt again.

Jmpollard 03/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Such an ace route! Finger crack felt really good and managed to just about get the peg from the break. Top wall felt really solid too, really chuffed with this one!!

with Mark Brown
PaulTanton 27/Dec/15 TR rpt

Top roped on my shunt five times.

kyaizawa 23/Dec/15 Lead O/S
arrang 04/Dec/15 Lead O/S
with Sam Marks
PaulTanton 01/Nov/15 TR

On my shunt five times

Hidden 24/Oct/15 2nd
Sam Marks ?/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Hamish
lloydrees91 30/Sep/15 -
Hidden 09/Sep/15 2nd
tim newton 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Mike Todd 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Lovely stuff!

PaulTanton 02/Aug/15 TR rpt

With my shunt. Four times

PaulTanton 23/Jul/15 TR rpt


Goodstuff 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Ben Cowans
poigol5043 22/Jun/15 2nd
PaulTanton 16/May/15 TR rpt

Three times on my shunt

JimHolmes69 02/Apr/15 Lead O/S

You can get a very small cam left of the massive slot if you don't have a big cam. Very good.

monkeyman79 27/Mar/15 2nd rpt
with Will Smith
harold walmsley 07/Mar/15 2nd dog

Couldn't do the top move of the crack this time. The rest was OK

with Mark Hounslea
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jan/15 2nd rpt
Paul Clarke ?/Jan/15 2nd
with MrShunt
PaulTanton 11/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Dennis Gleeson, Bruce Woodley
Graham Booth 13/Sep/14 Lead

Couldn't reach the bloody peg!

with Dave Shields
PaulTanton 07/Sep/14 TR rpt
PaulTanton 24/Aug/14 TR rpt
Calum Wadsworth 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Bloody brilliant. Its possible to get a small wire in at the flake ifif you don't have a huge cam.

with Rob G
Tom173 19/Aug/14 2nd dog
PaulTanton 09/Aug/14 TR rpt

On my shunt. Warm and sweaty

PaulTanton 02/Aug/14 TR rpt

On my shunt

Andrew Lodge 30/Jun/14 2nd

More rope rests than you can shake a stick at but still a brilliant climb and a superb lead, well done Pete

with Pete
pedrosanpb 30/Jun/14 Lead

Finally got up on the lead with 3 rope rests. Put a number 4 cam behind the thick flake at the start of the last few moves. Brilliant feeling topping out

with Andrew Lodge
Kieran_John 26/Jun/14 TR dog

Fell once on top rope. Looking forward to leading at some point.

pedrosanpb 25/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Left my big gear a the bottom to save weight then couldn't get anything good behind the big flake, doh! Decided I wasn't happy with my gear at that point, didn't want to trust the peg, so decided discretion was the better part of valour as I didn't know what the last few holds were like and abandoned, abbing gently off the peg and clearing the several hundred wires I'd laced the crack with. Bit gutted but better luck next time...

with Cycling Steve
PaulTanton 15/May/14 TR

Shunted it twice, again.

ebf 14/May/14 Lead dog

Again, fell off at the top of the crack, but have nailed the moves finally, so next time it's a clean lead I am after. :)

PaulTanton 05/May/14 TR rpt

Twice. Good exercise

robman 02/May/14 Lead O/S

great climb!!

pastep 02/Feb/14 Lead
with ebf
ebf 02/Feb/14 2nd O/S

Good lead by Paul.

Nez ??/2014 -
John Brayshaw 30/Nov/13 2nd dog
with Dan
PaulTanton 26/Oct/13 TR rpt

A hunt for dry rock

with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead β
Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
cobweb 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Roger Waterworth
lanky and weak 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Olly Parkinson
CragDog 08/May/13 Lead β
Hidden 01/May/13 Lead rpt
Andrew Wilson 01/May/13 2nd O/S
ebf 16/Apr/13 Lead dog

Finally led this. Fantastic route with solid gear where you need it. Very deserving of the grade and the stars. The bolt remains good, not that I tested it, but I did inspect on the way past.

Hidden 13/Apr/13 2nd
pastep 17/Feb/13 Lead
with Will242
Hidden ?/Dec/12 2nd rpt
Kasia Rzepka 12/Aug/12 TR
Hidden 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Marq 26/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Neil led

with Mark Blomfield, Neil Redgrave (LMC)
minT(HUN) ?/Jul/12 Lead
with woody
kitch22 22/May/12 TR rpt
with John Proctor, Adam Collinge
Rob Davies 18/Mar/12 TR

Backed off lead and found it hard even on TR

PaulHermes 26/Feb/12 Lead
with Tibor
pastep 26/Feb/12 Lead
with Tibor
uptown 21/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Nik Jennings 21/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Andy
Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
Sean_J ??/2012 -
minT(HUN) ??/2012 AltLd
with PaulHermes
ollyroberts 02/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Ben
Ewan Russell 19/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Halla, Matt_L_Robinson
RyanC 04/Sep/11 Lead dog

Took a fall moving up from the break. Gutted about it. Will go clean next time!

with Nick Valente
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead dog
RyanC 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Nick Valente
Hidden 31/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Peter Smith 27/Jul/11 Lead dog

One rest at break

with Mick Leather
Peter Smith 15/Jul/11 Lead dnf
with Mick Leather
Peter Smith 29/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Mick Leather
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/11 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 02/Apr/11 Lead RP

Lead after seconding Laurence on it a year ago, first clean E2 though!

Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Haighy 03/Mar/11 TR
with Will Wilson
Jack00 08/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with John Walsh
clive-greenwood 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
MeMeMe 08/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Andy
andy mcc 08/Jul/10 2nd
with Robin Nicholson
Hidden 08/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Peter Holder 29/May/10 Lead O/S
kieranlivett 28/May/10 2nd O/S
with james.peter
monkeyman79 09/May/10 Lead dog

The crux had to be dogged. Not used to lay backing cracks yet. A very pumpy route!

with David Edmondson, Mark Pitt
Hidden 09/May/10 TR O/S
adi bryant 04/May/10 2nd
with Lee
leegodson1989 04/May/10 Lead dog

Nice Climb Knackered by the time i reached the top of the crack so had to rest :(

with Adi
pastep 03/May/10 Lead
with ebf
ebf 03/May/10 2nd dog
Rowansb 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S

Really good, one to lead

adam coxsell 27/Mar/10 2nd
roberto18 10/Mar/10 Lead

found the bottom crack ok, but got well pumped on the top section.

Hidden 08/Mar/10 2nd dnf
lrandall 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Chuffed to get this clean as it was my first attempt at an E2 onsight - although I used the 'chicken-clip' on the upper wall, which probably knocks it down to E1. Brilliant, varied climbing from start to finish. The crux move is much softened for those with skinny fingers.

with Andy B
Dave Warburton 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Best route of the day, brilliant. Peg not needed though. Tricky sequence before the break which could catch you out. E1+?

with Ewan
Sean_J 01/May/09 Lead O/S
with Dan
Dave Lacey 21/Apr/09 Lead dnf
t_stork 07/Apr/09 2nd

with Ralph
Hidden 06/Dec/08 TR dog
Hidden 15/Nov/08 TR O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/08 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Jul/08 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Mar/08 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
joe larner 02/Feb/08 TR rpt
with Bruce
joe larner 01/Dec/07 Lead rpt
Rich Guest 15/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Well it's all there as they say. Pretty taxing mentally however. Includes dodgy 'chicken clip' on a bolt if you can reach it!!

Hidden 15/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/07 Lead O/S
MikeLeeds 12/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Holly & Corky
jak.kelly 05/Jun/07 2nd dog

2 rests

with Daniel Justice, Dave Lacey
Mattyk 23/May/07 Lead β

1st proper i.e not a chop route E2.. felt fine after the crack which is a one move wonder.. greasy conditions but top went well.. clipped peg, felt right to do that when i was next to it, after i did the move i didn't feel i needed it but that's life i guess! Had plenty of beta from ali. very pleased :o)

with Ali K
alexyoung 11/Apr/07 2nd dog

It was ugly but got to the top. Very happy.

with Steve
furry 11/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Alex Young
joe larner ?/Feb/07 2nd
Phill Mitch ??/2007 Lead O/S

did direct finish,been on other finish before

with wayne
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
davetigger ??/2007 -
Hidden 25/Jul/06 Lead β
MeMeMe 04/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Andy
reg_measures 14/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Richard Sharpe
Hidden 21/May/06 Lead O/S
WB ?/May/06 Lead O/S

Date is a guess

with Jim
reg_measures 02/Jan/06 2nd rpt
with Ralph
King Rat ??/2006 2nd rpt
with A
reg_measures 18/Dec/05 2nd O/S
with Torran Elson
ukb & bmc shark 17/Dec/05 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley
Eduardo Martinez 25/Sep/05 Lead O/S
adi bryant 19/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with John
Peter Smith ??/2005 Lead RP
with Nigel smith
Matt Rowat 14/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Owen
Hidden 14/Jul/04 2nd
Hidden 13/Mar/04 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Trobbo 30/Mar/03 2nd
with fiend
Andy S ?/Jul/01 Lead dog

Great little climb, nice moves and well-enough protected with nothing nasty to hit if you fall.

with Adam
Andy S ?/Jun/01 2nd O/S
with Adam
akhughes ?/May/01 Lead
Martin Bennett 01/Apr/01 -
with MT, MD
Phill Mitch ??/2001 Lead O/S
with gaz
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
chrishedgehog 21/Feb/00 Lead O/S
with Chris J
Bulls Crack ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Simon D
Seymore Butt ??/2000 Lead
with Roy
Chris Reid 17/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Rob Muirhead
PaulTanton 18/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with John Hardiman
climberguy ??/1999 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 26/Jul/98 2nd rpt
with Robin
madagascar ?/Aug/97 2nd dog
andrew300169 ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S

a really good climb, technical start, enjoyable finish

with Judy
Dave Musgrove ?/May/97 Lead
with Chris Wilson, Andy Wild
John Southworth 14/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
rob.grafton 18/Jul/95 Lead
with Bruce
Roget 28/May/95 Lead O/S
with jon
uphillnow 20/May/95 Lead O/S

with mark gray?

rob.grafton 29/Mar/95 2nd
with Bruce
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 03/Aug/93 Lead
with Bruce
nuts and bolts ?/Jul/93 -
Hidden 26/Mar/93 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1993 Solo

c. 1993

charlesmfrench 20/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with Larry Parkes
neilh 05/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with mark griffiths
crater 28/Jul/92 TR
Steve Crowe 20/Oct/91 Lead O/S
with KM
rob.grafton 06/May/91 2nd
with Bruce
mik1miller ??/1991 Lead O/S
with derek johnson
Hidden ??/1991 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Aug/90 2nd
Rich Kirby 13/May/90 Lead O/S
with Chris wiles
Neil McA 20/May/87 Lead rpt
Pete Pozman 22/May/86 2nd O/S
with Mark Gray
Martin Bennett 11/Oct/85 TR
GaryM 05/Nov/83 Lead O/S
with Dale
Neil McA 29/Oct/83 Lead O/S
with john ?
Hidden 09/Apr/83 Lead
Dave Musgrove 09/Apr/83 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1983 Lead
with Jim Thomas, Simon Kemp
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 39
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set